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The Great North Road: London to Edinburgh – 11 Days, 2 Wheels and 1 Ancient Highway
The Great North Road is Britain’s Route 66 – we’ve just forgotten how to sing its praises
In 1921, Britain’s most illustrious highway, the Great North Road, ceased to exist – on paper at least. Stretching from London to Edinburgh, the old road was largely replaced by the A1 as the era of the motor car took hold.
A hundred years later, journalist and cyclist Steve Silk embraces the anniversary as the perfect excuse to set off on an adventure across 11 days and 400 miles. Travelling by bike at a stately 14 miles per hour, he heads north, searching out milestones and memories, coaching inns and coffee shops.
Seen from a saddle rather than a car seat, the towns and the countryside of England and Scotland reveal traces of Britain’s remarkable past and glimpses of its future. Instead of the familiar service stations and tourist hotspots, Steve tracks down the forgotten treasures of this ancient highway between the two capitals.
The Great North Road is a journey as satisfying for the armchair traveller as the long-distance cyclist. Enriched with history, humour and insight, it’s a tribute to Britain and the endless appeal of the open road.
In 1921, Britain’s most illustrious highway, the Great North Road, ceased to exist – on paper at least. Stretching from London to Edinburgh, the old road was largely replaced by the A1 as the era of the motor car took hold.
A hundred years later, journalist and cyclist Steve Silk embraces the anniversary as the perfect excuse to set off on an adventure across 11 days and 400 miles. Travelling by bike at a stately 14 miles per hour, he heads north, searching out milestones and memories, coaching inns and coffee shops.
Seen from a saddle rather than a car seat, the towns and the countryside of England and Scotland reveal traces of Britain’s remarkable past and glimpses of its future. Instead of the familiar service stations and tourist hotspots, Steve tracks down the forgotten treasures of this ancient highway between the two capitals.
The Great North Road is a journey as satisfying for the armchair traveller as the long-distance cyclist. Enriched with history, humour and insight, it’s a tribute to Britain and the endless appeal of the open road.
303 pages, Paperback
Published July 8, 2021
18 people are currently reading
207 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 36 reviews
July 19, 2022
Interesting but not compelling enough descriptions for someone who has little context of the area. I was hoping to be drawn to want to visit the sights along the way, but the descriptions were too brief to peak my interest.
April 28, 2024
A very good read, for cyclists, history buffs, and anyone that loves a story of a great journey. A little too much about historic battles for me, but that’s kind of the point of the book; re-telling the history of this road and its many ‘lives’.
Worth a read.
Worth a read.
December 29, 2023
More of a history book than anything else. I’m glad the maps were provided day-by-day, as it did feel a lot like I was swimming (or drowning) in place names.
January 2, 2023
A delightful and relaxing journey with the author up the Great North Road. Taking in the history, the natural world and having the guidance of Charles Harpur to help this book is a blast to read.
July 17, 2021
A really interesting story of how a road has contributed so much to Britain’s history. Remembering the coaching era, discovering how topography and geography have influenced modern development. Not a book about cycling, but of discovery which is insufficiently possible by motor vehicle, and on modern incarnations of the A1.
July 14, 2021
Excellent travel book, love books that discover old routes such as this. The Great North Road/A1 has loads of history and this book explores a lot of it
December 31, 2021
“I’m no natural sportsman - just a bloke who likes cycling, had a goal and did a bit of training”.
Wonderful, inspirational book of one man’s 500-mile 11-day journey by bike from central London to Edinburgh, following the ancient route of the Great North Road. Having done his research diligently, Silk then manages to fairly effortlessly weave historical anecdotes into his own personal observations and encounters; and, particularly delightful to me, he has a passion for the old coaching inns that punctuate the route, which he describes and tries hard to visit.
It’s annoying that I haven’t managed to write up and publish one of my own journeys like this. Even more annoying is that I didn’t even get there first with that comment. Tim Moore, in his review, noted: “I was going to ride the Great North Road and write about it but in light of this annoyingly good book, I won’t”!
I’d actually been thinking of doing something like this along the old road from London to Wales, which runs through where I live in Oxford; but, of course, when I turned to the back of this book I discovered that Silk is eyeing up the very same route himself! Oh well, maybe he can get all the research and trail-finding done for me, making my own effort that much easier!
This is a great book if you like history, cycling, journeys or adventures. I like all those things so for me this was a fantastic read.
Wonderful, inspirational book of one man’s 500-mile 11-day journey by bike from central London to Edinburgh, following the ancient route of the Great North Road. Having done his research diligently, Silk then manages to fairly effortlessly weave historical anecdotes into his own personal observations and encounters; and, particularly delightful to me, he has a passion for the old coaching inns that punctuate the route, which he describes and tries hard to visit.
It’s annoying that I haven’t managed to write up and publish one of my own journeys like this. Even more annoying is that I didn’t even get there first with that comment. Tim Moore, in his review, noted: “I was going to ride the Great North Road and write about it but in light of this annoyingly good book, I won’t”!
I’d actually been thinking of doing something like this along the old road from London to Wales, which runs through where I live in Oxford; but, of course, when I turned to the back of this book I discovered that Silk is eyeing up the very same route himself! Oh well, maybe he can get all the research and trail-finding done for me, making my own effort that much easier!
This is a great book if you like history, cycling, journeys or adventures. I like all those things so for me this was a fantastic read.
August 5, 2022
Ultimately this book didn't work for me as much as I wanted to enjoy it. The concept of the journey was great and some of the anecdotes were enjoyable, but unlike other travelogues I've enjoyed of places I've never been, this one never really pulled me in to let me feel like I was actually there. I found myself confused by some of the descriptions and ultimately it read like a summary of movement across a landscape, not as an invitation to experience the journey myself.
I do think this would be more enjoyable to someone familiar with the area and terrain, a frame of reference. For me, it just didn't work and I DNF'd at about 70%.
I do think this would be more enjoyable to someone familiar with the area and terrain, a frame of reference. For me, it just didn't work and I DNF'd at about 70%.
May 28, 2023
As a long-time devotee of Tim Moore’s uproariously funny cycling travelogues, perhaps I have become spoiled by the stellar standard of his cycling writing, particularly where it details a journey of monumental folly that he has unwisely embarked upon. This is most likely why I found Steve Silk’s “The Great North Road” - where the author cycles the titular highway from London to Edinburgh over the course of 11 days - to be anaemic and lacklustre.
Silk is an affable enough presence over the course of “The Great North Road”, but a big problem with his expedition is that his route is already well trodden but also uninspiring. No offence to Stevenage or Doncaster (just two of the provincial towns that Silk chronicles), but they are not destinations to get the pulse racing (unless you’re on EPO). Steve Silk has a reasonable grasp of the topography and historical events synonymous with his route, but few of his reflections are especially revelatory.
And without wanting to sound churlish, cycling 400 miles across 11 days isn’t *that* impressive a feat (or certainly isn’t task that would trouble your average club cyclist). Lacking either the herculean struggle of Mark Beaumont’s work or the wit and political astuteness of Tim Moore, Steve Silk’s “The Great North Road” doesn’t quite warrant ‘Lantern Rouge’ status among cycling travelogues, but ultimately it is as unremarkable as a run-of-the-mill, one-paced domestique.
Silk is an affable enough presence over the course of “The Great North Road”, but a big problem with his expedition is that his route is already well trodden but also uninspiring. No offence to Stevenage or Doncaster (just two of the provincial towns that Silk chronicles), but they are not destinations to get the pulse racing (unless you’re on EPO). Steve Silk has a reasonable grasp of the topography and historical events synonymous with his route, but few of his reflections are especially revelatory.
And without wanting to sound churlish, cycling 400 miles across 11 days isn’t *that* impressive a feat (or certainly isn’t task that would trouble your average club cyclist). Lacking either the herculean struggle of Mark Beaumont’s work or the wit and political astuteness of Tim Moore, Steve Silk’s “The Great North Road” doesn’t quite warrant ‘Lantern Rouge’ status among cycling travelogues, but ultimately it is as unremarkable as a run-of-the-mill, one-paced domestique.
January 5, 2025
This was a fairly solid and ok read about subjects that I finding interesting travel, cycling, Britain and History. The author has an interesting and at times engaging writing style. The book was very easy to read (2-3 days) and I left knowing a lot more about the subject topic (and the surrounding area).
One thing I would say, there is a lot of history in this, particularly English Civil War era battle sites. I don't particularly mind this but it did detract from the flow of the book, and possibly the journey itself. The author was forever darting off into different directions to see historical sites. But then again perhaps that's the point of cycle touring and the journey as a whole.
I'd be interested to read the authors next book which I understand sees him travel to Wales, perhaps more so because its an area I'm more interested in.
On the whole a fairly solid and easy read.
One thing I would say, there is a lot of history in this, particularly English Civil War era battle sites. I don't particularly mind this but it did detract from the flow of the book, and possibly the journey itself. The author was forever darting off into different directions to see historical sites. But then again perhaps that's the point of cycle touring and the journey as a whole.
I'd be interested to read the authors next book which I understand sees him travel to Wales, perhaps more so because its an area I'm more interested in.
On the whole a fairly solid and easy read.
May 22, 2022
The first book of my 6-month Adventurous Ink subscription.
It isn’t a book I’d necessarily have chosen - being cycle based rather than walking - but the A1 is a road I have traveled in part many times (at least as far as Doncaster regularly). A lot of the place names were familiar.
I enjoyed the combination of history - based on Harper’s equivalent journey a century before. There were also a few references that made it relevant to its time - mid pandemic observations that I found interesting.
As it turned out it was less about cycling and more about travelling at a slower pace along the ghost of a road that has transformed from a great transport highway into a fast moving motorway/A road hybrid. I enjoyed the search for the “traditional” coaching inn and was pleased to learn that there are still a few if you know where to look
It isn’t a book I’d necessarily have chosen - being cycle based rather than walking - but the A1 is a road I have traveled in part many times (at least as far as Doncaster regularly). A lot of the place names were familiar.
I enjoyed the combination of history - based on Harper’s equivalent journey a century before. There were also a few references that made it relevant to its time - mid pandemic observations that I found interesting.
As it turned out it was less about cycling and more about travelling at a slower pace along the ghost of a road that has transformed from a great transport highway into a fast moving motorway/A road hybrid. I enjoyed the search for the “traditional” coaching inn and was pleased to learn that there are still a few if you know where to look
May 19, 2023
A reasonably entertaining read about a cycle journey following the path - as near as possible - of the Great North Road. I have no interest whatsoever in cycling but that didn't matter in the slightest. Silk writes in an easy readable & amusing fashion that on the whole kept me interested. I did find some parts rather boring - like some of the road info - but there's some interesting & quirky historical facts & legends that I did enjoy, in particular that of "The Busby Stoop"
Sit in it if you dare!
There are times I might've liked a bit more detail on the places he visited - he did seem to whizz through some of them! - but I can always google them at my leisure. Overall, a decent read for cyclists & non-cyclists alike.
Sit in it if you dare!There are times I might've liked a bit more detail on the places he visited - he did seem to whizz through some of them! - but I can always google them at my leisure. Overall, a decent read for cyclists & non-cyclists alike.
May 11, 2024
This is the account of a cyclist who combines his hobby with his interest in geography. He follows the route taken by an earlier cyclist, using that person's book as a reference for what to look out for. Naturally, he notices many changes on the route, allowing him to comment on trends in transport over the centuries. I enjoyed the slow pace of travel and the many historical details the author includes, especially when he reaches the north. Sadly, he chose not to go through York—that city being of particular interest to me—but his treatment of Newcastle-upon-Tyne made up for it.
September 16, 2022
An interesting travel book, following the “old” great north road from London to Edinburgh through villages and towns that new parts of the current north road bypasses. I enjoyed the audiobook version, all except the author’s pronunciation of ‘Tranent’, a village in East Lothian, close to my home city of Edinburgh. For those of a sensitive disposition I’ll warn you that the book contains several references to chamois cream!
February 1, 2023
this was such a fun jaunt up the great north road. it had some beautiful descriptions and silk has an amazing narrative voice that i really enjoyed listening too. i found it to be a super relaxing read, perfect for exam season, and it didn’t focus too heavily on cycling either which was nice for a non cyclist! definitely recommend for a nice, upbeat read, and definitely recommend the audiobook as the format!
April 7, 2024
I enjoyed reading this though I have to say I no longer have any regrets I had about cycling from London to Edinburgh when I relocated. Steve Silk’s experience of UK roads compared with my previous relocation from Amsterdam to London says quite a bit about the cycling infrastructure in the UK. No thank you. A pendant’s remark is that Edinburgh’s buses are maroon not purple and the rugby top’s are replicas but the kilts are not.
June 29, 2024
This is a thoroughly enjoyable and educational ride along the Great North Road, which weaved from London to Edinburgh, passing many interesting towns and villages along the way.
I listened to the audiobook: Steve Silk is easy to listen to and I enjoyed the anecdotes about his long cycle ride northwards, picking up some interesting historical information along the way.
I listened to the audiobook: Steve Silk is easy to listen to and I enjoyed the anecdotes about his long cycle ride northwards, picking up some interesting historical information along the way.
August 28, 2024
Great little travelogue with a smattering of cycling and history thrown in. It’s easy to pick up and put down without losing the plot and conveys the anticipation and enjoyment of a journey undertaken.
I enjoyed it and will never look quite the same again at the long haul north to my Durham homeland from my new domain in the South Downs in Hampshire.
I enjoyed it and will never look quite the same again at the long haul north to my Durham homeland from my new domain in the South Downs in Hampshire.
August 1, 2021
Really lovely little travel book. Steve manages to get the perfect mix personal experience/anecdote and interesting historical tidbits.
Some of the parts of the route were very familiar to me already so it was great to see them from his perspective.
Some of the parts of the route were very familiar to me already so it was great to see them from his perspective.
July 26, 2022
A gentle and entertaining travelogue, with a generous sprinkling of history, humor, and politics - plus, of course, some cycling.
Great observational writing, and descriptions so be well done I felt I was there with him.
A lovely book, and I look forward to his next one.
Great observational writing, and descriptions so be well done I felt I was there with him.
A lovely book, and I look forward to his next one.
May 27, 2023
I have driven the A1 many times and often thought of the great North road and the Roman road. This was why I chose to read it and view it from the perspective of two wheels instead of four. I loved the hidden byeways and diversions, I am easily diverted myself. A thoroughly enjoyable read.
November 12, 2023
This is a nice travel story book with solid idea, great history notes and a lot of facts. It is definitelly not the trip to struggle or do lots of miles, but to explore and see the hostory marks around very common landscape. I really like this kind of books: story about very common things.
June 14, 2025
Its an excellent idea and full of interesting information however it feels lacking. The parts where he goes into detail like the barter books and the Northallerton sections were real highlights but other parts felt rushed. I wanted it to be longer and fuller.
September 21, 2025
A great travelogue and tour guide with a great cyclist host and some fun cycling info. It didn't feel that this was as much about the cycling as the travelogue (but plenty of cycling). It was a fun read - I would love to ride the route and am fully supportive of a Great North Road cycle route!
September 24, 2025
A superb read!!
I really enjoyed this book and have already purchased the following one following the A40, I live just off its route! There was lots of humour and I appreciated the challenges described, being a road cyclists myself. Highly recommended.
I really enjoyed this book and have already purchased the following one following the A40, I live just off its route! There was lots of humour and I appreciated the challenges described, being a road cyclists myself. Highly recommended.
September 28, 2025
Somewhat interesting with lots of historic battles, tiny obscure museums and lots of stagecoach history! I liked learning that Baldock’s name came from Baghdad and when the author arrived in Biggleswade he was ‘instantly charmed’!
November 20, 2022
Really interesting specially as I'm familiar with the areas. A great insight into a wonderful bike packing adventure right here in the UK as well as the history of a great road and it's people!
June 14, 2023
2.5 stars wasn't what I thought it was going to be
November 10, 2023
Easy read full of entertaining facts
Displaying 1 - 30 of 36 reviews