History in a Glass: Sixty Years of Wine Writing from Gourmet

by Ruth Reichl (Editor)

When Gourmet magazine debuted in the 1940s, America’s wineries were still reeling from the lingering effects of Prohibition and the loss of wines from war-torn Europe. But for every closed door, there was an open The bleak postwar years were actually a prelude to today’s unprecedented and widespread appreciation for the grape. New York Times bestselling author Ruth Reichl reread sixty-five years of wine articles in Gourmet to select the best for History in a Glass. The result is a rollicking tale of great meals, great walks, and wonderful drinks as Americans discover the pleasures of wine.

These marvelous essays were written by men and women who were not only on hand to witness wine’s boom but, in many cases, helped to foster the environment that made it thrive. The early days after World War II provided a great opportunity for James Beard and Frank Schoonmaker to reacquaint oenophiles with the joys of European wines. Through tireless dispatches from the Continent, they inspired American vintners to produce world-class wines on their own rich soil.

In subsequent pieces, an impressive, surprisingly diverse roster of writers revel in the sensual and emotional pleasures of the legendary Gerald Asher reflects on the many faces of Chianti; Hillaire Belloc dispenses bits of wisdom by the glass to his niece on her wedding day; the science fiction titan Ray Bradbury rhapsodizes about the earthy pleasures of dandelion wine; Kate Colman explores the moral quandary surrounding a friend’s unintentionally generous gift of a rare Bordeaux; Hugh Johnson reports on Hungarian varieties during the height of Cold War tensions in the early 1970s; even Gourmet’s current spirits editor, James Rodewald, reminisces on the first time he fell in love–with a bottle of Pinot Noir.

With an Introduction by Ruth Reichl, and covering more than six decades of epicurean delights, History in a Glass is an astonishing celebration of all things good and grape.

Genres: History, Food and Drink, Food, Nonfiction, Wine

400 pages, Hardcover

First published March 7, 2006

About the author

Ruth Reichl is the New York Times bestselling author of five memoirs, the novels Delicious! and The Paris Novel, and the cookbook My Kitchen Year. She was editor in chief of Gourmet magazine, and previously served as restaurant critic for The New York Times, as well as food editor and restaurant critic for the Los Angeles Times. She has been honored with six James Beard Awards.

Reviews

[Bookshop · Rating 3 out of 5]

I picked up this book in a used book store in Toronto because I thought I could learn a thing or two about how wine was like in the past. This book contains a selection of wine articles published in Gourmet magazine spanning 60 years. The article selected starts from year 1941.

I find out that the past is not always rosy. The stories are from American writers with, obviously, American point of view and consumption habit. The earlier writings are particularly painful as the wines discussed are outdated, the language style too old, the situation irrelevant. I find reading Frank Schoonmaker’s articles, great as he is, extremely boring. Hugh Johnson has always been a favourite with his eloquence and knowledge so his are probably the few articles I do enjoy.

Geographically, the book covers the typical Europe, with emphasize on France and respectable mention of Germany, Austria, Spain, and Italy. It also focuses on the history and rise of American wine. The book closes with a more recent development of the new wold, discussing Australia, Washington State and Oregon.

This book is not to be consumed all at once in one sitting. It’s heavy in knowledge and history. It’s best kept on a side for slow savour. With a glass of wine in hand, of course.

[Marivic Hammond · Rating 5 out of 5]

Turn down the lights, put chill music on and grab the best bottle from your stash.

[Barbara Lohan · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed it very much; I am very interested in the history of wines.

[Erica · Rating 4 out of 5]

For anyone even just peripherally interested in wine, this is a wonderful/fascinating record of its consumption-history in the United States. Essays which not only shed light on importation but domestic cultivation... and the embrace of wine at the table in general. A fun food-porn read. Hooray. Viva la vino!

[Bob Peru · Rating 4 out of 5]

a good anthology of wine writing.

[Susan · Rating 3 out of 5]

good, interesting