The author is not a believer in the importance of a first sentence (or even a first page) in grabbing the reader’s attention. I found his ‘dream arrival in St Petersburg’ to be clever but soporific, and I very nearly gave up on the book. But, to be fair, I was about to turn out the lights before sleep. I’m glad I didn’t give up.
This is about one person’s meeting with Russian culture as it was in St Petersburg in the troubled 1990s. The high culture of palaces, opera, ballet and classical music, the low culture of porn and massage parlours, mafia and street violence, but mainly the basic culture represented simply by language and human behaviour. This basic culture is very different from that of the West – but by no means ‘inferior’ (whatever that may suggest) – which is largely because Russia has always been an autocracy, has never been a free and open society. Which explains why many Russians have layers of identities, hard to penetrate, a bit like the traditional Russian doll.
Many of the author’s more specific insights on Russian culture are fascinating. English ‘gentle’ folk have always migrated seasonally, from city to country, and the Russians do the same while also turning the English attitude on its head. Rather than ‘the romance of the country gentleman, the Russians enjoy the romance of the peasant’. The Tsars used to dress in peasant garb as casual wear (p.96). Can you imagine Sir Horace Claptrap Bart. doing that? Interesting.
Some aspects of Russian attitudes are also very disturbing, which is also interesting (and probably linked to its history of repression) e.g. his description of a brutal assault in broad daylight which everyone studiously ignores. ‘In this way - by doing nothing – the brutality of Russia contaminates you’ (p.141). But I’m not sure I agree with some of his more Anglophile assessments e.g. ‘England has had the world’s … least brutal empire’ (p.142). He needs to read William Dalrymple’s histories of India, or Anita Anand’s ‘The Patient Assassin’, or accounts of the British occupation of Australia. Of course, it’s all relative – maybe he’s right.
Thankfully, there is a constant aura of sex. Will he or won’t he, especially as regards Dimitri, the delectable 17-year-old? Or blond Yuri the Banana-seller with the spectacular pecs? There are hundreds of mentions of the ‘male member’ in various ways and contexts (including ‘hooey’, the Russian slang), and one begins to wonder: Could Dooncan (as Dima calls Duncan, delightfully) be AC/DC? It’s possible!!
There is much in the line of real social and personal wisdom. He doesn’t much approve of institutional religion. ‘A priesthood with power is bent on persecution, and perverts human zests and charms’. And ‘It is not my business to take any man’s religion away from him. Unless, of course, he threatens me with it. In which case it is as reasonable as hoping to take a loaded gun away from a child’ (p.220). The only really nasty interchange is between Duncan and a trainee orthodox priest who espouses noxious anti-semitism in the tradition of many Russians (and Europeans generally!).
As regards personal wisdom, I like his comment that ‘Sex without love has a purity which can lighten the heart. So long as you have love somewhere else. Sex in a loveless life can be a reminder of inner bleakness – though it is much better than nothing at all’ (p.85). Wise words, but honestly, the author is also capable of delivering a lot of old BS. Speaking of Dimitri he says: ‘Behind Dima’s wide-apart eyes are spaces limitless and unfocussed. Across these tracts moves his soul in its various conditions: wholly apparent - wholly transparent - wholly invisible. I hear a voice calling to me from inside him but he does not hear it’ (p.202}. Dear me!
This is a fun read partly because of the myriad fascinating people - malign, kind, spunky, dirty, dignified, ridiculous: Yuri the banana-seller, Dimi the naval cadet, Dr Zoia the landlady, VV the Russian Cockney, etc. Fallowell specialises in people, and he describes in funny detail his interchanges with them. But its also fun because he can find the humour in the grotesque and tasteless (there’s a lot of that to be had in Russia, which is part of its charm). I even found myself chortling over a description of the display of stuffed human babies and baby parts in the Museum of Anthropology (p.119). All the same, having been to Russia in the late 1880s, I agree that ‘… it is the relentless seediness which gets to you in the end’ (p.167).
Not a book for everyone, but I enjoyed it.