Thank you to Penguin Books who provided an advance reader copy via Edelweiss.
This is an inspiring memoir written by Raynor Winn, wife of Moth Winn and mother of their adult children Rowan and Thomas. This utterly devoted married couple find themselves homeless at the age of fifty. They've spent their married lives restoring a farmhouse in the English countryside stone by stone, which they also parlayed into a family business. They have farm animals, a vegetable garden, and the ability to share their lives as well as pay their bills. When they made a failed investment at the advice of an old friend, a court case ensued against the Winns. At the last minute they procured a document to prove that they were not liable in the court case; however, the judge refused to accept it into evidence because it wasn't submitted in a timely fashion. Not only did they lose the court case, but everything they had built together their whole marriage. They would be homeless in five days. As if this tragedy wasn't enough, Moth's persistent shoulder and arm pain was just diagnosed as CBD, or corticobasal degeneration- a degenerative brain disease. If the diagnosis was sound (there is no actual test for it), in several years Moth could fall into dementia and die by choking on his own saliva. Moth was the first one to ever say the words "I love you" to Raynor, and she loved this beautiful man since they were teenagers.
Raynor remembered reading a book called "Five Hundred Mile Walkies" decades ago which involved walking the entire coastline from Minehead in Somerset, North Devon, Cornwall, South Devon, to Poole in Dorset...otherwise known as the "South West Coast Path". This would involve walking approximately 630 miles over rivers, moorland, hills, rocks and beaches...and wild camping! So, they stored some treasured furniture, purchased a used tent on eBay, bought two large rucksacks and put one foot in front of the other. Their only financial sustenance was forty-eight pounds weekly, which would be deposited in their bank (a government tax credit due to Moth's recent inability to work) and they could withdraw from cash machines.
I love human interest stories about people who triumph over adversity (or at least try). Being resourceful, finding strength you didn't know you had, living life instead of just giving up...this book was all those things. The arduous journey had a miraculous curative effect on Moth. He was advised to rest by his doctor, but the one time they lived in a small cottage (in exchange for refurbishing it) Moth's body was racked with pain. A master wall plasterer by trade, he could only work about four hours a day while in extreme pain. However, once they resumed hiking Moth regained his strength and agility.
They had to make little money stretch by eating noodles, tuna, rice- and when desperate- fudge bars. Every morning, they would heat up their own tea on a tiny gas stove. They would longingly watch other people eat large meals with dessert like they were watching a movie. Often times when they would splurge on eating in a shoppe, they would share something. One time when they shared "the best pasty ever made" , a seagull swooped in and stole it from Raynor. They were often hungry, hot, cold, smelly and wet. Finding a safe place to pitch the tent for the night was always a challenge. Any rare but necessary diversions into a city were a problem with extra and often surly people around, and less available options for safely pitching a tent. They would breathe a sigh of relief slipping back into the countryside. Many times people they encountered would approach, becoming intrigued upon seeing "older people" such as the Winns with large rucksacks, and wondering if they were walking the South West Coast Path. They would get personal and ask how the Winns had the time to do this. They soon found out if they were honest and said they were homeless, people would get a distrustful look in their eyes and quickly drift away.
Raynor talked about the skin peeling off her nose, the leathery consistency of her skin, and the eventual thin, muscular and toned transformation of their bodies. The first time she was able to enjoy the use of a communal hot shower, she spent a very long time in there, washing the bird's nest of her hair and having a good long cry. There were also several encounters with morning dog walkers as she squatted to perform her morning constitution! There are too many personal stories to recount during this pilgrimage that made this book uniquely special. The one part I did not enjoy was the intricately detailed account of nature every step of the way. Admittedly, I'm not a nature lover or outdoorsy person, but I just skimmed a bit over those parts. Raynor Winn is a very gifted writer, and she will sweep you away like one of the many rainstorms they dodged.
I'll leave you with what was for me the most beautiful moment of the story: Moth said, "When it does come, the end, I want you to have me cremated. Because I want you to keep me in a box somewhere, then when you die the kids can put you in, give us a shake and send us on our way. Together. It's bothered me more than anything else, the thought of us being apart. They can let us go on the coast, in the wind, and we'll find the horizon together."