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Sourdough by Science: Understanding Bread Making for Successful Baking

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Flour + Water + Yeast + Science = Successfully Delicious Sourdough The transformation of a few ingredients into a crackling-crusted sourdough is nothing short of miraculous. Complex and fascinating chemical and biological processes are taking place in your mixing bowl and oven, thanks to wild yeast and bacteria, and the natural sugars, enzymes, and proteins found in flour. However, baking a great loaf of sourdough does not have to be complicated or overwhelming. Understanding the science behind these processes makes all the difference. In Sourdough by Science , molecular biologist Karyn Newman provides a reliable path to sourdough success by arming you with informative descriptions of what’s happening on a molecular scale and a strategy for learning from and optimizing your own bakes. Recipes are delectable, doable, and dependable―from a Rustic Boule to Wild Challah to Hazelnut Buns― teaching you the hows and whys of bread making along the way. Sourdough by Science has the answers to an array of sourdough What is a sourdough starter? How do different flours respond? When should you add salt to a dough? How does the crust get crisp and crackly? The book makes it easy for readers to develop sourdough intuition with an invaluable and wide-ranging troubleshooting guide. Complete with resources and step-by-step photos, this is an essential book to build your bread-baking expertise. 100 photographs

304 pages, Hardcover

Published January 25, 2022

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Karyn Lynn Newman

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5 stars
34 (56%)
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18 (30%)
3 stars
7 (11%)
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Displaying 1 - 10 of 10 reviews
Profile Image for Beth Oehler.
459 reviews4 followers
February 7, 2024
This is a beautiful book. When I am ready to start sourdough again, this will be my manual.
36 reviews
February 16, 2022
This is the only reverence book you will ever need to make outstanding sourdough bread. I have been playing around with different recipes and instructions and met with only mediocre results at best. Karyn Newman's instructions and the explanation of the science behind the instructions was eye-opening.

I read all of the instructions up to and including the first recipe "Simple Boule". I couldn't put the book down. I realized why my previous attempts had fallen short. I have come from a yeast bread background and moving to a bread starter approach required the addition of one key element not used in yeast-based baking, TIME. The total elapsed time, using the retard method, was 48 hours, of which there was perhaps one hour of actual hands-on time. The results are absolutely outstanding.

Thank you Ms Newman for a great read and great instructions. I will be working my way through the different recipes and cannot wait until I take on and master "American Beauty".

1 review
February 9, 2022
Very in depth

I loved how the author explained how to tweak the microbial population of the starter using temperature and timing of feedings, and how to use that to change character of the finished loaf. I love to know the why of things, not just how to do them. If you’re like me, you’ll love this book.
Profile Image for Ian Chadwick.
Author 5 books6 followers
June 1, 2023
If you are looking for actual bread science, look elsewhere. There is very little science here and what there is is far too basic for even modestly experienced bakers. If you want *real* science, get Emily Buehler’s book, Bread Science (15th anniversary edition or later).

For example, Newman mentions “gluten proteins” in flour without naming them (gliadin and glutenin) or explaining how the two combine to create gluten. She doesn’t say anything about how much protein is necessary for bread, what is typically in various flours, or how to supplement it.

There is no explanation at all about gluten networks, how they work, how they align, or how they can break (e.g. when using whole wheat flour).

She says rice flour is good to prevent dough from sticking to a proofing basket “for some reason.” That’s not science. And the reason is because rice flour lacks gluten so the dough doesn’t bind to it (same reason bakers use cornmeal).

She mentions yeast and bacteria in starter but doesn’t name them (their proper, scientific names), explain what they do, how they grow and reproduce, or how their symbiotic relationship works. Nor does she go into any detail about troubleshooting starters to combat unwanted bacteria and mould. She doesn’t mention pH levels or even that a mildly acidic environment is beneficial (or how to achieve it).

She recommends using a silicon spatula or scraper for mixing without saying why or even mentioning the material of the scraper.

She doesn’t discuss any of the differences between commercial, cultivated yeast and starter yeast or the genetics of either yeast or bacteria (information readily available in other books or online).

She doesn’t explain the biochemistry behind salt, sugar, eggs, milk, diastatic malt, or oil in bread, what they do to dough and yeast, even though some recipes include them. She doesn’t recommend amounts of any of these to use or why.

She doesn’t mention that salt and sugar are hydrophobic and their overuse can lead to dehydrated yeast. She doesn’t explain what enzymes help in breaking down starches and which break down proteins as well.

There’s nothing on the process of fermentation, the creation of CO2, alcohol, esters, or acid in the process or what they bring to bread.

She doesn’t explain how autolysing works or why she adds starter at this stage when other bakers wait to add yeast to their dough. She doesn’t explain the Maillard reaction or gelatinization of dough.

Even the baking content is weak: she only uses a single proofing basket without calling it by its proper name: banneton. She mentions a Dutch oven for baking but doesn’t explain why it should be preheated vs not doing so for glass. She doesn’t explain the difference between regular and convection ovens. She doesn’t mention proofing boxes.

A lot of new bakers want to use bread machines for making dough or incorporating sourdough into their loaves. She mentions nothing about it. She mentions a stand mixer once but doesn’t give any additional information about using one, or why.

She doesn’t seem to be aware that in the USA, protein in all-purpose flour varies by brand and region, from 9-12%. or that all flour in Canada has standardized protein levels.

She suggests 120g weight for a cup of flour, but the weight depends on the flour’s age, humidity, brand, type, packing, milling, storage, and sifting. King Arthur says 120g for its bread flour, but Bob’s Red Mill is 132g, Robin Hood is 154g, others say 140g, and Buehler says 110g. Online you can find a range of weights for a single cup from 116 to 170g! This difference has a huge effect on hydration… but Newman doesn’t explain hydration levels or mention baker’s percentages used to calculate it.

Other types of pre-ferment (i.e. poolish or biga) are not discussed, nor are techniques like tangzhou or boiling dough mentioned (let alone explained, even though she has two recipes for bagels that require boiling!). She doesn’t discuss dough enhancers.

This is an overpriced book with a handful of recipes, some useful technique, and pretty pictures, but it is NOT bread science and only a modestly good baking book. You can get similar content in many other books about sourdough baking that also include much more technical and scientific information and many more recipes for a better price.

(FYI, I have been baking bread by hand for more than 40 years, and by machine for more than 30. I have dozens of books about bread, and am active in bread groups and forums online. I write this also as a former book editor and author with a personal passion for science.)
Profile Image for Nick.
14 reviews3 followers
April 17, 2022
A good sourdough baking book for sure but at the same time I’m a little conflicted. Given the title and emphasis on the author's phd in cellular and molecular biology, I expected a lot more science. For example, there is discussion about how to manage the balance of yeast versus bacteria in your starter and the effects that each has in your loaves. I would have loved some graphs showing the relative percents of each population, or amount of lactic/acetic acid produced when feeding/timing the levain differently. This is the kind of thing I expected given the title and blurb on the back.

Also the author mentions early on that rice flour is good (better than wheat flour) for keeping the proofing dough from sticking to the banneton “for some reason.” Everything I have read on this subject is that this is because rice flour does not have gluten. This makes a lot of sense to me (and maybe it isn’t even correct because not everything is always immediately apparent!) but in retrospect “for some reason” was a bit of an early warning sign that this book wouldn’t have the scientific curiosity I was hoping to find.

All that said the recipes look good. I appreciate the tables of bakers percentages for each recipe’s ingredients as well as % pre-fermented flour in the levain, so experienced bakers can quickly figure out what is going on (although I would have preferred if the non-bread-flour flour ingredients were listed by their name instead of as “whole grains” — just tell me the rye flour percentage!)

The troubleshooting section is really great. Lots of “if you have this problem, here is X, Y, and Z you can try to fix it. Also next time, modify your methods in W way.” This section could go from “really great” to “absolutely incredible” with photos of cross sections of loaves that have been over proofed, for example.

The photocopy-able worksheet for documenting your baking adventures is a nice touch.

Ultimately this is a great sourdough baking book if you are looking to get into sourdough baking and want a variety of good recipes to try, master, and take inspiration from. But don’t expect a ton of science, numbers, graphs, etc.
Profile Image for Noah Wigington.
9 reviews
September 28, 2024
A well-written informational and often times witty book for sourdough starters! (pun intended). From the pictures to the detailed step-by-step, I entered the journey into sourdough land and I don’t foresee it ending any time soon. I often have trouble finding cookbooks that both teach and have amazing recipes, so this will forever be a staple in my kitchen that I will reference always. From basically sourdough recipes to cinnamon rolls with orange glaze, this book is amazing. All you need is a very hardy starter to get going!
16 reviews1 follower
April 17, 2022
Worth the cost alone for the small volume starter management advice. Also has good suggestions for adapting baking to your own schedule. Have to remove a star though because for some reason this book does not have baker's % calculated for all the ingredients in the recipes, making it annoying to scale up or down.
1 review
January 24, 2023
Possibly the best sourdough guide I've come across. Really goes into the purpose, value, and flexibility of each inscrutable step of the sourdough process. For example, Newman describes how to adjust your bulk rising temperature and starter:flour ratio to change the sourness of the final loaf.
Displaying 1 - 10 of 10 reviews

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