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Drunk in China: Baijiu and the World's Oldest Drinking Culture

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2020 Gourmand Award in Spirits

China is one of the world’s leading producers and consumers of liquor, with alcohol infusing all aspects of its culture, from religion and literature to business and warfare. Yet to the outside world, China’s most famous spirit, baijiu, remains a mystery. This is about to change, as baijiu is now being served in cocktail bars beyond its borders.

Drunk in China follows Derek Sandhaus’s journey of discovery into the world’s oldest drinking culture. He travels throughout the country and around the globe to meet with distillers, brewers, snake-oil salesmen, archaeologists, and ordinary drinkers. He examines the many ways alcohol has shaped Chinese society and its rituals. He visits production floors, karaoke parlors, hotpot joints, and speakeasies. Along the way he uncovers a tradition spanning more than nine thousand years and explores how recent economic and political developments have conspired to push Chinese alcohol beyond the nation’s borders for the first time. As Chinese society becomes increasingly international, its drinking culture must also adapt to the times. Can the West also adapt and clink glasses with China? Read Drunk in China and find out.
 

314 pages, Paperback

Published March 1, 2022

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About the author

Derek Sandhaus

9 books14 followers
Derek Sandhaus has published four books on Chinese history and culture, most recently "Baijiu: The Essential Guide to Chinese Spirits." In 2018 Sandhaus co-founded Ming River Sichuan Baijiu in partnership with China’s oldest continually operational distillery. He serves as Ming River’s baijiu education director and as the editor at DrinkBaijiu.com. He lives with his wife and dog in Jerusalem, where he is developing a fondness for arak.

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Displaying 1 - 12 of 12 reviews
Author 4 books108 followers
December 15, 2022
I thought I would die of asphyxiation during my first visit to a shāoguō (烧锅) in 2016 in the outskirts of Chengdu, China. It was my first foray into a distillery and I hadn't expected to be hit by such a surfeit of fumes. Reading Derek Sandhaus' delightful romp through the distilleries and bars of China, I now understand why. I also understand what a treat it was to have been invited to tour the Shui Jing Fang distillery, which at the time of my visit was owned by Diageo, who had paid more than a half billion dollars for it. As Sandhaus sums it up, "The problem with Chinese alcohol is simple, and it all boils down to quality and quantity" (p. 167).

I confess I was so overwhelmed by the fumes that I skipped the proffered tasting session post-tour, foregoing what were some of the most respected (and expensive) shots in China. The problem was I clearly had not drunk enough baijiu (nor huangjiu nor hongjiu) at that point to have understood what I was missing anyway. If only I had read Drunk in China: Baijiu and the World's Oldest Drinking Culture but Derek was most likely still exploring the depths of Chinese alcohol himself at that point; Drunk in China just came out in 2019, as China was being sealed off from the rest of the world due to the outbreak of our 21st Century epidemic (Covid-19). I can't wait to return.

Not that we need to. As it turns out, the best place to buy Chinese alcohol (and we're not talking beer or wine here but the potent stuff, distilled spirits or what is known in China as shāojiu), is outside of China due to the proliferation of bootleg or substituted products that flood (or as the authorities would have us believe, 'once flooded') China. The distilleries export directly to foreign markets so we can be assured that we are getting the real stuff. But in China, when the top luxury brands can sell for thousands of renminbi and a bottle that looks exactly the same can be had for 1/10th or less...?

One learns not only about the history of alcohol in China, but also the stories behind some of the great Chinese distilleries, the laws that were passed to control or tax it, and the role it played and still to some degree plays in official events, soothing the way in relationship-building and favour-granting capacities.

This is a fun read for anyone who has travelled in China or plans to and enjoys imbibing at the end of a day. You'll know what to order, and have learned both some of the protocols of drinking in China (one fills tea cups half-full, wine cups to the rim), as well as some of the jiuling or games that accompany ritual drinking. Author Sandhaus is clearly someone you would want to travel with--a fun-loving, never-say-no sort of guy, who describes an encounter with a pitcher of snake wine: "we agreed to drink it shot for shot, drawing from the inexhaustible well of stupidity that has long guided our sex."
Profile Image for Helmut.
1,056 reviews66 followers
February 4, 2020
Sitting down for a drink is the easiest way to get to know someone
Derek Sandhaus‘ newest book is riddled with an assortment of anecdotes of how he came to be the leading non-Chinese expert on China’s national spirit, baijiu (though he himself semi-humbly refutes that title). I could cut this review short and summarize his experiences: get stinking drunk for several years while traveling the countryside and meeting shady people. Others have to spend their time in dusty libraries with even more dusty people if they want to become expert in their field, so he obviously found the funnier way of education. Let me copy his approach and start this review of Drunk in China – Baijiu and the World’s Oldest Drinking Culture by telling you an anecdote, like how I got to know him – and baijiu.

I was really amused by the anecdote about Spirits Selection by Concours Mondial de Bruxelles mentioned in the introduction of Drunk in China, as I was for three years also part of this exclusive yet down-to-earth group of people traveling the world in search for new spirits, and we were both judges in the 2019 edition that took place in China. Interestingly, that was not my first contact with Derek. A review here on Goodreads, where I wrote about one of his first endeavors as a writer, Tales of Old Peking, got me interested in his work. I was in love with an imaginary China at that time and read anything on that country’s history and culture I could lay my hands on. From there it was still a long way to my appreciation of baijiu – and after half the way it was again Derek who jumped in, with his Baijiu: The Essential Guide to Chinese Spirits, which, by the way, is still the benchmark for any work on baijiu written in a readable language. It was really great finally meeting him in the Shanxi countryside, sitting down for a drink with him (and dozens of other long-nosed foreigners). Well, if you know Chinese customs, or have read his book, you’ll know that „a drink“ is a relatively flexible term there.

Drunk in China - with Foreigners in a Chinese village

Of course, you’ll learn everything you need to know about baijiu in this book. It is even more valuable since the author is not simply caroling away, but also shows us the problems that baijiu faced in the past and today. Health issues, a rampaging drinking culture and severe food safety lapses make baijiu a cultural and societal affair that the government itself now handles. Ludicrous price inflation, loss of interest of the younger generation and indifference towards the future of the own product are home-made concerns as well. Chattily Derek leads us through a broad spectrum of topics that make this book much more than a simple introduction to China’s national spirit: be prepared to get immersed into China’s liquid secrets.

In contrast to his earlier works, Drunk in China is much less relying on pictures, something I miss a bit, but I’m sure the only reason for that lack of images is that it’s difficult to steadily hold a camera while ganbei-ing. Derek’s vivid descriptions actually do their own of planting imagery into your brain, and some of it is not all that pleasant. I’ll supply one image myself now to explain a rather exotic ingredient of baijiu. There is a lot of talk about „qu“ in this book, and if you’ve wondered what it actually looks like, well, here’s Derek handling a block of qu in a distillery museum in Fenyang in his best traveling-salesman manner.

Drunk in China - Derek Sandhaus with Qu

Baijiu might not be the easiest spirit to get into, yet don’t feel bad about it, as even Derek confesses in his book that he „hated“ baijiu at first. One of the many insightful early quotes he unearthed about baijiu is related to its somewhat steep learning curve: „It [baijiu] is not agreeable to the taste of Caucasians“, and what Charles E. Munsell deplored in 1885 is still one of the problems of baijiu today. On the other hand, personally I once hated olives, oysters and licorice, and look at me now, I could live off them alone. But it’s not only the taste buds that might need some training when trying to get acquainted with the Chinese national spirit, it’s also its background which is harder to understand than that of the many Western spirits we’re accustomed to. We need education on baijiu. Two quotes, one from the beginning of the book, the other one from the end, show the Herculean task Derek Sandhaus has set for himself.

To my surprise and dismay I soon discovered there was precious little information about Chinese spirits available for the casual English reader.
(…)
If baijiu is to find a Western audience, if it is to go mainstream in North America, Europe, and elsewhere, someone has to take on the thankless task of clearing a path.


Luckily, we now obviously have someone actually doing the pioneering and the educating; and in a very entertaining and eloquent way to boot. I don’t need rose-tinted spectacles coming from my knowing the author to recommend this book to anyone of the following groups – people interested in more-or-less contemporary China, of course spirits aficionados of all kinds, but definitely also those who simply like to read a rip-roaring story about a „short Jewish kid from Kansas“ finding his unexpected vocation in a very foreign land. In parts it reminds me of American Shaolin, and that means I can’t give much higher praise.

Buy it. Read it. Then, most importantly, go out and try to find a decent bottle of baijiu (which nowadays is still not the easiest thing outside of China, but Derek’s own Ming River brand is quite acceptable and should be readily available), get some friends together, order lots of piping hot Sichuan food and kill that bottle with it. Rinse your mouth, repeat several times. After that, you’ll know what the baijiu magic is.
Profile Image for Reader Views.
4,701 reviews329 followers
February 16, 2020
Reviewed by Robert Leon Davis for Reader Views (02/2020)

“Drunk in China” takes readers on a spirited, entertaining journey through the lens of China's favorite and often misunderstood drink, Baijiu. Author Derek Sandhaus illuminates Chinese history and contemporary life in his devoted quest to embrace and relish a traditional Chinese liquor. It's not just about Baijiu, although it offers a master class on the subject. It's about China and its history, culture, and relationship with the West, told through the perspective of a witty, generous storyteller.

China is one of the leading producers and consumers of liquor, with alcohol infusing all aspects of its culture, from religion and literature to business and warfare. Yet to the outside world, China most famous spirit, Baijiu, remains a mystery. This is about to change, as Baijiu is now being served in cocktail bars beyond its borders. “Drunk in China” follows the author's journey of discovery into the world's oldest drinking culture.

“Drunk in China” is a detailed history lesson on China's formation, its people, culture, and lifestyles; all told through the country's most favorite beverage and alcohol drink called Baijiu. I must admit that before reading this book, I said to myself, “What can a 250 plus page book tell you about a simple drink?” But I soon learned that Baijiu isn't a simple drink! It's China's national drink and for good reason.

Observe these facts: 99 percent is consumed in China and served in every Chinese restaurant. It's the largest, best-selling liquor in the world. There would be no China without the drink! This book went in my mind from being a question mark to one of the best books I've ever read! It’s more than about the drink but has fascinated me with China! I learned more from the author about history in general thank I learned in history class.

The writing style is very simple but very much suave. Every page has various little-known facts and information. “Drunk in China” was obviously very well researched. There is no rereading of a chapter or redundant information. I actually, while midway reading this book, was able to locate the drink. The best I can tell you of its taste is “mysterious.” “Drunk in China” by Derek Sandhaus is a very fine book, delving into a very deep, charming, and informative subject. I highly encourage all serious readers of any subject or genre to get a copy. Easily 5 stars...
8 reviews
April 10, 2023
Like Malört in Chicago, many foreigners view Baijiu as a kind of one time party-trick, an innocuous liquor to cripple the unsuspecting. At first sip, Baijiu comes across as brutal and wildly intense, a sadistic high proof oddity. Its flavors are almost otherworldly, and would perhaps be most appropriate on the menu at the Restaurant at the End of the Universe, over say, hotpot with friends.

However, after exhaustive "research", Derek Sandhaus believes that what is standing between Baijiu and universal palatability is context. Like strolling into a museum and seeing an artifact lifted from its distinct cultural and temporal mores, so it is with China's most infamous liquor. It demands a backdrop, an explanation, and perhaps most importantly, a patient and receptive student.

Sandhaus enlightens the reader by way of his own liquor fueled peregrinations through the Chinese countryside, providing a social commentary reminiscent of American Shaolin. He breaks down the monolith of Chinese alcohol through its mythical and culinary origins, charting how China's relationship with alcohol has evolved over time.

This book is therefore something of a drinker's miscellany, a travelogue interwoven with anecdotes, both topical and historical. It's a risky strategy, but it works. Like many would-be vices, alcohol permeates and colors all parts of our lives, and is perhaps best understood through experience, even if it's vicarious. Most importantly of all, Sandhaus gives Western readers a critical frame of reference to adopt while learning to like the liquor, a process which he freely admits takes upwards of three hundred attempts.

After reading Drunk in China, I procured a bottle of Sichuan's Du Kang strong aroma Baiju, with notes of synthesized cantaloupe and nail polish remover. Even as one of the best, I found it to be a hard sell. Discouraged, I brought it to my restaurant's Chinese New Year's banquet. Sure enough, Master Min took my offering and filled his teacup to the brim. Others soon followed suit, chatting excitedly while they availed themselves with huge swigs. By the end of the night, the grinning Head Chef held the bottle upside down in the air. Not a drop fell from its spout.

While I work through my next hundred shots, I think a sequel would help considerably.
Profile Image for Zhi Chen.
37 reviews1 follower
February 24, 2020
Fantastic narrative of not only baijiu but of modern, contemporary China as well. Personal, entertaining, insightful, and informative.

I couldn't stop reading and had to down this book in one gulp. There were several times when I questioned myself and tried to sniff the book pages to confirm that the pages were not actually perfumed by the sweet fragrance of baijiu.

Looking forward to baijiu being increasingly promoted and shared with the world. Thanks, Derek! Ganbei!
Profile Image for Richard.
728 reviews11 followers
March 16, 2020
A rather good read about a subject that I am not really familiar with and that is Chinese Spirits that are either made from rice ( similiar to sake ) to ones made with barley, millet and sorghum. They are sometimes referred to " rotgut ", kerosene, fire water and other slang terms. Talks about the different varieties of chinese distilled spirits, the flavors and regional affiliations. Interesting read.
433 reviews13 followers
August 21, 2020
This was a very good book.
It's honestly very exciting when I can find a book about something that I have never heard of before and this did it for me. I had assumed that China had its own drinking culture but never store to consider the possible breadth of it.
I appreciated that the author looked at the history of the alcohol and drinking culture in China in what seemed to be a very genuine and thorough manner.
Profile Image for Billy Abbott.
Author 1 book9 followers
June 13, 2020
A must-read for booze people, and also a rather good read. A whistle stop tour of the history of baijiu and its role deep in the heart of Chinese culture. It has also made me buy a load more books, which is good?
50 reviews3 followers
February 2, 2020
Really loved this, a real deep dive into the history and also culture around drinking in china. Both the positives (community!) and negatives (alcoholism) are dealt with realistically.
Profile Image for Rhachel Shaw.
3 reviews3 followers
May 6, 2020
A look at the history and culture of drinking in China. Interesting read.
Profile Image for Anthony.
157 reviews6 followers
December 29, 2023
Part memoir, travelogue, history and business book.

The sections on the modern baiju industry and the in-depth look at alcoholism were especially insightful.
Profile Image for Paul Bradley.
166 reviews1 follower
March 26, 2021
A story of a brilliant and insightful journey into the world of Baijiu with lashings of Chinese culture and alcohol production and history thrown in for good measure.
Displaying 1 - 12 of 12 reviews

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