Dress Code: Unlocking Fashion from the New Look to Millennial Pink

by Véronique Hyland

A New Yorker Magazine Best Book of 2022 * An Esquire Best Nonfiction Book of 2022 * A Town & Country Must-Read Book of 2022 * A Fashionista Summer Read “Smart, funny, and impressively thorough.”— The Cut In the spirit of works by Jia Tolentino and Anne Helen Peterson, a smart and incisive essay collection centered on the fashion industry—its history, its importance, why we wear what we wear, and why it matters—from Elle Magazine ’s fashion features director. Why does fashion hold so much power over us? Most of us care about how we dress and how we present ourselves. Style offers clues about everything from class to which in-group we belong to. Bad Feminist for fashion, Dress Code takes aim at the institutions within the fashion industry while reminding us of the importance of dress and what it means for self-presentation. Everything—from societal changes to the progress (or lack thereof) of women’s rights to the hidden motivations behind what we choose to wear to align ourselves with a particular social group—can be tracked through clothing.  Veronique Hyland examines thought-provoking questions such Why has the “French girl” persisted as our most undying archetype? What does “dressing for yourself” really mean for a woman? How should a female politician dress? Will gender-differentiated fashion go forever out of style? How has social media affected and warped our sense of self-presentation, and how are we styling ourselves expressly for it? Not everyone participates in painting, literature, or film. But there is no “opting out” of fashion. And yet, fashion is still seen as superficial and trivial, and only the finest of couture is considered as art. Hyland argues that fashion is a key that unlocks questions of power, sexuality, and class, taps into history, and sends signals to the world around us. Clothes means something—even if you’re “just” wearing jeans and a T-shirt.  

Genres: Fashion, Nonfiction, Essays, History, Audiobook, Feminism, Art

288 pages, Paperback

Published March 15, 2022

Reviews

[Jessica · Rating 5 out of 5]

There's nothing I love more than books that seriously examine a topic that's generally considered frivolous because of its association with women, and this book is a really great addition to that extremely specific genre.

[Tyler McCall · Rating 5 out of 5]

There's much to love about this book of essays. While Hyland is a fashion editor at a prestigious publication (and, I might be biased as a friend, but a damned good one at that), she intentionally pushes capital-F Fashion to the background here, choosing instead to focus on the many ways fashion touches our lives in more mundane ways than runways and glossy editorials.

Fashion is so often written off as a frivolous interest, something one can simply opt out of, and Hyland successfully weaves together the many threads of how fashion impacts our society; from uniforms and political dressing to the inescapable trend cycles we get caught up in (worth noting here Hyland was the writer who first coined the term "millennial pink") and the ever-increasing demands we participate in the attention economy, no detail escapes Hyland's grasp.

And perhaps most importantly, Hyland is really funny.

**oh yea — edited to add I received an advanced copy from Harper Perennial for review.

[Andrea · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was impressed by this! It was more intersectional and political than I anticipated and helped me think through how clothes really do shape our lives.

I started this for the millennial pink but stayed for the astute observations. Well done.

[Rosa · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book reads like the longest Vogue magazine article that's not a celebrity interview. I'm a fashion girl who gets all of the in-depth references. If this book isn't for me, not sure who's the audience. The author focuses on how fashion affects current events. It's frustrating to hear her argue both sides of every point. Overall it's not bad, mostly stale.

Received a copy of this book from Netgalley

[JuliaR · Rating 5 out of 5]

For someone that has a single fashion bone in her entire body - a tiny one while we're at it - I had way too much fun reading this book. "Dress Code" covers different themes in the fashion world with both a history lens and a provocative writing style, much as a longer editorial in a magazine, which is the author's background.

Even needing to google most of the names of the people mentioned, the particular pieces of clothing and the fashion shows in Paris/London with their couture masters, I really enjoyed getting a new perspective into the fashion world and industry. For me, the concept of fashion as central is someone's life is foreign, but reading this book it not only made perfect sense but also gave me interesting insights on how we can use clothing to our own advantage.

My favorite chapters were the one about work clothes and their impacts on people's perceptions of success and status, the one on attires for trials and the expectations they try to convey, and the one on the evolution of women's clothes and the suffering they can bring to the wearer. Some common themes throughout the chapters were also super interesting, such as comprehending why fashion holds a different value for men and woman, based on their role of creator & muse/consumer. One discussion of "doing it for oneself" while at the same time meeting the world's expectations was very eye-opening.

Hyland managed to write a book perfect for the curious but unfashionable people, the ones that just blindly follow (or try to to follow) the trends. For the initiated on the theme, it might read as too obvious, but for me it was fun, interesting and certainly full of content that I wouldn't have consumed otherwise.

Thanks a lot NetGalley and Harper Perennial and Paperbacks for the ARC in exchange for my honest review.

[Sara · Rating 5 out of 5]

A wonderful collection of essays on the only art form you can't opt out of participating in.

[Abby Evancho · Rating 2 out of 5]

2.5 i liked the idea but it felt very drawn out, could have been an essay and got the same points across in 10 pages

[Maggie Carr · Rating 4 out of 5]

From politicians, to educational systems, judicial, historical, and the runway our bodies and what we put on them tells layers of stories of history, and sharing a narrative of who we wish to be day to day. This was a fantastic book and I learned a lot through this book.

[Beth Kushner · Rating 3 out of 5]

I enjoyed this book and the points it brought up, but like so many have mentioned- it could have been shorter. Some parts read like a student paper just trying to make it to a word count. I’ve never read a book that used the word “aughts” so much.

[Carina · Rating 1 out of 5]

Hyland says a lot without actually saying anything, never mind bringing anything new to the table. The blanket statements without examination come off as immature, and the hyper-charged emotions driving the writing come off as the rants of the middle and high school aged self she regularly refers to (all before hitting page 40 where I DNF'd). A strong editor and a research assistant would much improve what we currently have.

While writing this review, I took a peak at the back of the book. I am gobsmacked. There is not a single citation for any of Hyland's claims or statements. How do you write a collection of informative essays and not have references, citations, or even a suggestion for further readings? Even a 5th grade level bibliography would be something, especially when pulling direct quotes from as many prominent figures as Hyland does.

[Kathleen Dupré · Rating 3 out of 5]

If you are coming to this book for a history of fashion and how different trends came about, kind of like a light documentary about the fashion industry, then this will not be the book you are looking for. Instead, it is a deep dive into the ways fashion subtly and sometimes insidiously impacts the way humanity perceives itself and the way humans perceive each other--and often the wayst that marginalized groups are subject to more stringent expectations when it comes to the way they dress and how their look impacts their reputation. This was a fascinating analysis of all the little ways that clothing and appearance have a huge impact on our lives and how those things have been impacting us all throughout history.

[Maddie · Rating 5 out of 5]

Such an insightful, pleasant, and mind opening read on the intersection between fashion and everyday life. I really enjoyed this collection of essays—I’ll be thinking about the French girl industrial complex and the couture body for weeks to come.

[Kallie · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was really fun, I enjoyed the look at different style trends, the recent histories of colors and fits, and those who have influenced fashion over the years. I'm sure this is a very bird's eye view of a lot of it, but as someone not plugged in to the industry, this was perfect.

[Kaleigh Ruiz · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed this book, though I don’t think it was contributing much new to the discourse. It’s also wild to me how dated this seems as something published just 4 years ago bc of the rapid changes we’ve had in technology and culture.

[Autumn · Rating 4 out of 5]

If you don't want to read something that has been exhaustively researched and analyzed, this isn't the book for you. If you don't want your fashion book to contend with the very real systems of hypercapitalism, misogyny, racism, etc. this is not the book for you. If you want a basic timeline of fashion without any personal connection or emotion THIS IS NOT THE BOOK FOR YOU.

This collection of essays is fantastic! I love Hyland's candor and voice in her writing. While I initially thought this would be a straightforward history, I was so deeply surprised (pleasantly so) that it was much more than that. It's obvious from this collection that Hyland deeply loved fashion, yes, but also people. She appears to be an incredibly intelligent person who is interested in ensuring a positive and kind future for both.

Some essays did end up dragging a bit, but that's to be expected with a collection like this. Regardless, it is absolutely worth your attention.

[Kate T · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an interesting book of essays about fashion and fashion history. There was a lot of good food for thought (like how fashion trends we think are totally antiquated (like corsets and girdles) get recreated and rebranded (into waist trainers and spanx)). I especially enjoyed the fashion history aspect (like how pockets have come and go in women’s clothes) and the marketing/influencing aspect. Some of the e beginning got a little white woman rage-y, but the rest of it makes up for it.

[Jen · Rating 1 out of 5]

I spent more time googling than reading. This is a book for people in the industry or for fashion influences who are well aware of fashion history. It is not for people with an interest in fashion, who lack a fashion pedigree. I also found her use of $80 words unnecessary.

[Sara Goldenberg · Rating 2 out of 5]

Kind of long winded about almost nothing. Cant believe this was a whole book.

[Susan L · Rating 3 out of 5]

Read like a very long format magazine article but certainly filled with fashion greatest hits and stories including social media trendy topics that were new for me.

[Susana · Rating 4 out of 5]

Incredibly pretentious, loved every second of it

[Patrick Bailey · Rating 3 out of 5]

Kate Moss wore birkenstocks during a 1990 photoshoot

[Maggie McVey · Rating 5 out of 5]

Dear reader, I did not speed through this book. Instead, I took my time, savoring each essay, even going back to re-read several of them and journaling my thoughts. As an independent reader, I don’t often wish I were in a book club, but this was one book I wished I had been reading and sharing with others along the way.

As Hyland says in her author’s note, fashion is NOT a niche subject. Culture informs fashion, and fashion informs culture.

These essays helped answer so many questions I didn’t even know I had, such as: When the guy I dated in 2017 told me I had “hair like a French girl”, why was I automatically so flattered? What was with my late grandmother’s obsession with the term “shocking pink”? And will I ever be free from the confines of posting my ~candid moments~ in exchange for likes?

In short, Hyland manages to do what too few fashion experts can: make it clear she knows what she’s talking about without making you feel uncultured for not knowing it all yourself.

[Guadalupe López · Rating 5 out of 5]

Dress Code de Véronique Hyland es un ensayo inteligente y entretenido sobre cómo la moda se cruza con nuestra vida cotidiana. Hyland desarma tendencias, estereotipos y códigos de vestimenta para mostrar que lo que usamos nunca es solo ropa: es identidad, poder, historia y marketing. Desde el mito del "French girl style" hasta el impacto de la moda en la política, el libro mezcla análisis cultural con observaciones filosas y un tono accesible. Perfecto para quienes quieren pensar la moda más allá del consumismo, sin perder de vista su atractivo y su influencia.

[Nyambura]

from my newsletter:

In this title, Hyland “argues that fashion is a key that unlocks questions of power, sexuality, and class, taps into history, and sends signals to the world around us.” I read it while I was away and on my trip back and I highlighted so much I intend to go back to it and its bibliography in the future. I love writing about things that we’re trained to perceive as frivolous and situates them in global trends.

[Curtis · Rating 4 out of 5]

Though told predominantly through the limited view of the Western canon, Hyland paints a complex portrait of the ever-morphing ideals of beauty that shape and constrain our lives.

Shoutout to the girl from the West Village book bar for the rec

[amritad · Rating 5 out of 5]

this book needs way more hype!! this is essentially Trick Mirror (Jia Tolentino) but fashion - so many great deep dive essays covering topics like 'French girl' aesthetic and 'pink marketing.' perfect blend of commentary, informative and relatable! published in 2022 so relevant af fashion trends

[Manders · Rating 4 out of 5]

Well-researched and thought out. A bit dry at times, but very interesting overall. Occasionally repetitive; author harped about Goop frequently for the first half and I almost DNFd but I'm glad I stuck it through.

[Katie Lyerly · Rating 2 out of 5]

DNF for now. Feels super long and reads like an essay trying to hit a word count, but may come back to it later!

[Victoria Sykes · Rating 2 out of 5]

2.5/5: i thought this was going to advance my knowledge of the luxury fashion industry but instead the author lectured me about ‘millennial pink’

also i don’t know when this was written but some of her analysis is so wrong. that being said there were some interesting parts and i learned a little

[Lauren · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is sociology, American history, gender studies, politics and art history all wrapped up into one. Can’t wait to read the next work by Hyland!