I have a long (rather ranty) spiel in my head about this book so I'll start by saying that I bought this for myself as a Christmas present because I love Grace Dent. By that I mean I love her columns in the Guardian. Because that's the only place I've come across her. And she writes a great column - in a single page restaurant review she's entertaining, she's funny, she shows pathos and compassion and brings in all sorts of snippets on far ranging topics, including personal ones. Through her columns (and Jay Raynor's) I've learnt that you (well, I) don't read restaurant reviews because I have the faintest intention of ever visiting the restaurant in question, but because they can be wonderful pieces of writing in their own right. When Hadley Freeman was away on maternity leave and Grace wrote her column for a while, I was almost wishing Hadley didn't come back, I was enjoying Grace's column so much. Her "restaurant reviews" during the pandemic have been particularly enjoyable because she's had to write about other food-related topics and often these come more from the heart. Within the last few weeks, Grace's mother died and she wrote an incredibly heart-rending column about death in the pandemic, and what the wake and the food at the wake means to us, and how big a hole the lack of that has left in the mourning process. It also meant I read the whole of her book knowing that her mother has now died.
Onto the book itself, it felt like a book of 2 halves to me. One was the story of her WORKING CLASS childhood in Carlisle. Capitals used because there was a lot of emphasis on the working class bit. Not that there was any bid for sympathy - her childhood was happy, her family were loving and they didn't seem to want for anything. The second half was the story of her rise to fame. Turns out Grace has had a massive media career! She's written for loads of publications (not just about food, the food critic bit came quite late in her career), been on loads of TV programmes, written books, rubbed shoulders with many celebrities and generally lived quite a high flying life with first class flights, nights in £3,000 hotels, etc etc etc. She can't go to Tesco's without being recognised etc. Having read this I felt a bit stupid and naiive. Without really thinking about it, I had regarded Grace Dent as a bit of a niche writer - after all we're always hearing how small the Guardian's readership is. It also made me realise how narrow my own exposure to the media is. I've never watched MasterChef or Big Brother or read Marie Claire to name but a few of Grace's previous jobs.
Ultimately, I was left feeling a bit disappointed by the book. Most of the writing is very light-hearted, easy and enjoyable to read, but maybe skirting any deeper dive into emotional issues. I'm guessing this was deliberate - her father's "other" family is referred to very matter-of-factly, her ex-husband (always referred to as "husband", never by name) the same. Her rise to fame is cantered through also quite factually with the occasional reference to imposter-syndrome (don't forget the working class background!)
By far the most "enjoyable" part of the book - because it felt like it was actually written properly from the heart, was the section about her father's descent into dementia. I wish there'd been more of this depth of feeling in the rest of the book. There was very much a "play-safe" approach for most of it - given her high media profile and her celebrity interaction there was no gossip or expression of any strong opinion about anyone or anything. A cop-out really.
There were 2 thing I knew (or thought I knew) about Grace Dent before I read this book. One was her Guardian writing and one was that she was a vegan. I reached the end of the book without noticing a single mention of veganism. So, doubting myself, I went and checked and sure enough I found 2 articles by Grace Dent (for the Guardian) explaining her attitude to animals, animal welfare, and factory farming. She detailed how she eats mainly vegan at home - and in fact also when out at restaurants. She takes someone with her who eats the meat dishes, and she might try a small forkful. She says that for a period of her life in the 80s she was a "militant vegetarian" before creeping back onto meat for a while and then going practically vegan. So, how does none of this even get a mention in her book? How, in an autobiographical book by a FOOD WRITER is there NO MENTION of that writer's attitude to the actual food? Apparently she holds strong views about the consumption of animal products, never eats them at home, never orders them in restaurants, but this is not mentioned in her own book. I can only conclude it was strategic because she didn't want to upset the anti-vegan brigade blah blah blah. How cowardly. This last point has annoyed me so much, that although I still love Grace Dent and I will still enjoy her Saturday Guardian columns while drinking my tea in bed, my star rating is going right down.