First, replace your semolina with semiotics. This academic book guides us through the titular concept, in ways that might, and yet might struggle to, grab the average browser. The first chapter looks at the way a recipe book, or blogsite or utube channel, conveys the recipe format, and uses chicken soups as a way to show how technicality level and other aspects all vary even when discussing the one and the same thing. Secondly, we're looking at how recipes are the tip of the iceberg, and there's a lot of ancient stuff underneath that carried the berg out to sea – chefs looking at ways others do it, and/or their grandmothers. (I so hate recipe books when the page is wasted with the cook saying how it was a chance encounter with an Antiquistan goatherd that taught her to do this or use that – but hey, at least the grebo with multiple flesh-rings in the local street market made it more westernised and perfect for your little Johnny of a TV meal!! Nobody. Cares. Except the people that do, and they don't count.)
A chapter on comfort foods is next, and the author nearly starts to pick apart the food as opposed to the dish (that kind of thing is reserved for chocolate, later). But not for the first time there is mention of a post-recipe world, where everybody knows what things do, and so things are thrown together based on what's in the fridge still, and something new is made by us each time we cook. In sheer contrast to that is Thanksgiving, where we don't get a recipe for the food – we get a recipe for the entire day. And also in contrast to the post-recipe world is the pre-recipe idea that makes porridge (whatever porridge means to your country) – a basic so basic nobody ever needed it written down with specific measurements and cookbook writers' waffle.
All told this was perfectly reasonable, but on the slightly dry side where reading around the subject of food is concerned (not that I've done that much, at all). It does provide for a suitable monograph on something the regular reader would not have expected to see, let alone enjoy, a full volume on. But in looking at it in such academic terms – and that most successfully – it kind of missed the flippancy I might have sought from such a book. I always say that if you're going to measure something by the 'cup' you might as well start measuring books by the 'pocket', as even if it fits they're all going to be a different bleddy size. (Inconstancy in recipes is featured, to be fair.) This might not have fit perfectly with what I was expecting, whatever that was, but this was not a waste of time at all – three and a half stars. And at least it pulled back from discussing the author's gender issues and ultra-wokeishness, as all similar books in this frustrating series seem more concerned with than is good for them.