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Premier de Cordée #1
Premier de cordée
Pour ramener à bon port le corps de son père, foudroyé en pleine ascension, Pierre est prêt à braver tous les dangers. À Chamonix, les guides se mobilisent : Servettaz était le meilleur d'entre eux. La montagne est une redoutable tueuse, elle sélectionne impitoyablement ses victimes. Celles-ci le savent bien qui la consomment comme une drogue et la portent dans leur sang. Une histoire de passion, au courage et à la solidarité des hommes.
320 pages, Pocket Book
First published January 1, 1940
57 people are currently reading
725 people want to read
About the author
Roger Frison-Roche
82 books14 followersBorn in 1906 in Paris, Roger Frison-Roche, an alpinist, mountain guide, journalist, and explorer before he turned novelist, produced fiction that celebrated the splendors and rigors of the Alps, the Sahara, and the Scandinavian North. Two of his Alpine novels, Premier de cordée, translated into English as First on the Rope, and La Grande Crevasse, present adventure stories whose mountain-guide protagonists titillate readers with the appealing skill and daring exacted by the mountain.
Source : Literature of Nature: An International Sourcebook by Patrick D. Murphy, Terry Gifford, Katsunori Yamazato (p. 203)
Source : Literature of Nature: An International Sourcebook by Patrick D. Murphy, Terry Gifford, Katsunori Yamazato (p. 203)
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 77 reviews
November 4, 2018
Svelti! La folgore è sopra di noi!
«La piazza è tranquilla: la chiesa sarda, con il suo campanile a bulbo, veglia sulla popolazione cosmopolita che dorme nei grandi alberghi. Quegli sfaccendati che girano per il mondo, coricati da poche ore, non sapranno mai l’ora squisita dei mattini purissimi.».
Ambientato tra maestose montagne, intorno ad una Courmayeur senza tempo, narra di ascensioni, di fatica, di drammi, di momenti esaltanti, di sacrificio, passione, di solidarietà, di valori semplici e genuini condivisi dalle genti che con la montagna hanno un rapporto di rispetto, ma non di sottomissione.
Per qualche giorno ho scalato con loro ed ho respirato a pieni polmoni un’aria cristallina e sofferto un freddo boia. Poi ... ho chiuso il libro e i ... tremila ... sono volati via! E’ rimasta però la ricchezza di questo, ennesimo, viaggio ... immobile.
[Apr 2012]
«La piazza è tranquilla: la chiesa sarda, con il suo campanile a bulbo, veglia sulla popolazione cosmopolita che dorme nei grandi alberghi. Quegli sfaccendati che girano per il mondo, coricati da poche ore, non sapranno mai l’ora squisita dei mattini purissimi.».
Ambientato tra maestose montagne, intorno ad una Courmayeur senza tempo, narra di ascensioni, di fatica, di drammi, di momenti esaltanti, di sacrificio, passione, di solidarietà, di valori semplici e genuini condivisi dalle genti che con la montagna hanno un rapporto di rispetto, ma non di sottomissione.
Per qualche giorno ho scalato con loro ed ho respirato a pieni polmoni un’aria cristallina e sofferto un freddo boia. Poi ... ho chiuso il libro e i ... tremila ... sono volati via! E’ rimasta però la ricchezza di questo, ennesimo, viaggio ... immobile.
[Apr 2012]
September 14, 2025
Coup de cœur de l’année !! Un classique que je ne découvre qu aujourd’hui
J’étais dans les cordées avec eux
J’étais dans les cordées avec eux
March 29, 2021
Premier de cordée ressemble à un roman d'aventures mais chauvin : tout un groupe d'hommes à l'assaut de la montagne, tour à tour ensemble infranchissable, mystérieux et meurtrier et éléments bien distincts à l'identité propre et aux défis uniques. Frison-Roche dépeint le massif du Mont-Blanc qu'il connaît si bien en le rendant universel, en même temps que ses habitants et ceux qui osent s'y frotter. La fraternité des guides de Chamonix y est décrite de l'intérieur et les assauts contre la montagne ont quelque chose d'épique, de cathartique et de mystérieux : qu'est-ce qui motive des hommes à risquer leur vie ? Frison-Roche lève un pan du voile sur cet attrait mystique d'un sommet, d'un massif, d'un versant sur les hommes qui rêvent de s'y élever au péril de leur vie et de leur santé. Il dresse un portrait humaniste de ces aventuriers de l'impossible, leurs rêves, leurs espoirs, leurs craintes mais aussi leurs erreurs et leurs regrets. C'est un beau portrait de ce microcosme chamoniard d'il y a quelques années. On peut regretter pour finir une vision parfois trop simpliste du handicap, du traumatisme et de la place de la femme (1941, tout de même).
August 6, 2024
Really good book IF you have already been to an area similar to Chamonix, otherwise I think the writer could have done a better job of describing the terrain.
July 11, 2025
Lecture parfaite pour prolonger une escapade à Chamonix !
May 17, 2021
Relecture d'une relique de ma bibliothèque d'enfance. Je n'ai jamais réussi à visualiser les paysages, les reliefs. Il me manquait trop de vocabulaire montagnard pour vraiment les comprendre. Les personnages sont admirables de courage quand il s'agit de sauver l'un des leurs ou pour se relever d'un échec mais je suis trop extérieur à leur délire d'escalade pour m'enthousiasmer. Je comprends qu'à moitié pourquoi ils font tout ça. Je suis plus sensible aux aventures aériennes d'un St Exupéry par exemple.
December 31, 2019
This is an interesting novel which at times is quite gripping and also gives a unique insight into the lives of the people in the Chamonix area of France during the 1920-30s. Pierre Servettaz wants to be a mountain guide, just like his father, uncle and countless generations before him. It’s in his blood but his father, Jean, doesn’t want his son to follow in his footsteps and instead wants him to manage the family hotel. Pierre knows what he truly wants to do in life and when a tragedy strikes, and a guide is killed, he joins a rescue party to climb the Dru to retrieve the dead body. But the journey up the mountain is a hazardous one and causes unforeseen consequences.
First on the Rope is the French classic Premier de Cordée which was published in 1942, and translated into English in 1949. Being a classic book, the language is a little different than modern books but is, for the most part, an easy read and I found myself surprisingly interested and compelled to read on to find out what happens to the characters. Although the story follows Pierre, for the most part, it also features a range of other characters in the region and we get an interesting insight into the practical life of the people living in this mountain region too.
The book is divided into two sections and begins with Pierre and his uncle who have been out climbing but soon switches to his father Jean, a guide, and porter Georges who are with a client up in the mountains, on the Dru. Their client is an overconfident man who refuses to turn back when the weather gets bad. Their story is really interesting and the drama of what happens during the climb as the weather gets progressively worse is intense. The descriptions of the danger and what subsequently happens to everyone, including the behaviour of the client (especially later) makes for compelling reading. I’m acutally surprised with how much I got into this book, as I’m not someone who goes climbing or reads too many climbing books.
First on the Rope is originally written by the author in a serialised manner before being turned into one novel and you can feel this when you read it. There are certain intense dramatic sections of climbs or other things happening and then suddenly in a next chapter it’s several weeks or months later. This can feel a bit weird and I was disappointed there wasn’t more to the ending of the story of retrieving the dead body, but it didn’t interfere with the general wider tale of what happens to Pierre and the others.
Being a classic, the book does use a few words and descriptions that we wouldn’t today. Words like ‘gay’ and ‘queer’ are used in their original old fashioned meanings, for example, and a lot of the conversations and descriptions aren’t as quick or sharp as we’d expect in more modern novels. There are long descriptions in places that are sometimes tricky to read if you’re not used to a lot of terminology used in mountain climbing. There is a glossary of some of the terms in the front of the book, but if you’re completely new and don’t know some words then you might strugglee a bit to read through the descriptions of some of the climbs (especially if you have to look back to the glossary to remeber something) but this only affects you if you don’t know or remember anything though and having said this, when the story focuses more on the drama of what’s happening to the people (or in one case, some fighting cows!) , it becomes really interesting to read.
The ending is a satisfying one but quite short and there is a nice message about life, during the last chapter which some might pick up on. The book is interesting throughout, if you can get past some lengthy descriptions, and gives you an insight not only into the life of mountain guides in the Chamonix area, the intensity of the climbs and the struggles that they and the people they aid in climbing had in the last century. For the most part it’s really interesting and also gives you some information about how the people in the area lived. For example one part I enjoyed learning about which I didn’t know about was what happened with the cows and I didn’t expect to find the stuff about the cows fighting so interesting! That chapter was quite dramatic (if a little difficult to read about, being an animal lover).
This book is also made more interesting when you read about the author and realise that the he actually came from Chamonix and trained there as a guide. The story, although fiction, is based on his experiences in the area and as a guide, and for me this just made the whole book more interesting and less ficticious.
Overall, it’s not the most exciting read compared to modern standards, it is a classic after all, but if you can get past some descriptions which can be a bit lengthy or difficult to read (if you don’t know all the climbing terminology) then it’s actually a really interesting and compelling story. I’ve been pleasantly surprised in reading this book, and I find myself thinking about the tale and the characters (and even the mountain life) for a long time after reading this. It’s definitely made me keen to read more of the author’s work.
-Thanks to Vertebrate Publishing for a free copy for review.
First on the Rope is the French classic Premier de Cordée which was published in 1942, and translated into English in 1949. Being a classic book, the language is a little different than modern books but is, for the most part, an easy read and I found myself surprisingly interested and compelled to read on to find out what happens to the characters. Although the story follows Pierre, for the most part, it also features a range of other characters in the region and we get an interesting insight into the practical life of the people living in this mountain region too.
The book is divided into two sections and begins with Pierre and his uncle who have been out climbing but soon switches to his father Jean, a guide, and porter Georges who are with a client up in the mountains, on the Dru. Their client is an overconfident man who refuses to turn back when the weather gets bad. Their story is really interesting and the drama of what happens during the climb as the weather gets progressively worse is intense. The descriptions of the danger and what subsequently happens to everyone, including the behaviour of the client (especially later) makes for compelling reading. I’m acutally surprised with how much I got into this book, as I’m not someone who goes climbing or reads too many climbing books.
First on the Rope is originally written by the author in a serialised manner before being turned into one novel and you can feel this when you read it. There are certain intense dramatic sections of climbs or other things happening and then suddenly in a next chapter it’s several weeks or months later. This can feel a bit weird and I was disappointed there wasn’t more to the ending of the story of retrieving the dead body, but it didn’t interfere with the general wider tale of what happens to Pierre and the others.
Being a classic, the book does use a few words and descriptions that we wouldn’t today. Words like ‘gay’ and ‘queer’ are used in their original old fashioned meanings, for example, and a lot of the conversations and descriptions aren’t as quick or sharp as we’d expect in more modern novels. There are long descriptions in places that are sometimes tricky to read if you’re not used to a lot of terminology used in mountain climbing. There is a glossary of some of the terms in the front of the book, but if you’re completely new and don’t know some words then you might strugglee a bit to read through the descriptions of some of the climbs (especially if you have to look back to the glossary to remeber something) but this only affects you if you don’t know or remember anything though and having said this, when the story focuses more on the drama of what’s happening to the people (or in one case, some fighting cows!) , it becomes really interesting to read.
The ending is a satisfying one but quite short and there is a nice message about life, during the last chapter which some might pick up on. The book is interesting throughout, if you can get past some lengthy descriptions, and gives you an insight not only into the life of mountain guides in the Chamonix area, the intensity of the climbs and the struggles that they and the people they aid in climbing had in the last century. For the most part it’s really interesting and also gives you some information about how the people in the area lived. For example one part I enjoyed learning about which I didn’t know about was what happened with the cows and I didn’t expect to find the stuff about the cows fighting so interesting! That chapter was quite dramatic (if a little difficult to read about, being an animal lover).
This book is also made more interesting when you read about the author and realise that the he actually came from Chamonix and trained there as a guide. The story, although fiction, is based on his experiences in the area and as a guide, and for me this just made the whole book more interesting and less ficticious.
Overall, it’s not the most exciting read compared to modern standards, it is a classic after all, but if you can get past some descriptions which can be a bit lengthy or difficult to read (if you don’t know all the climbing terminology) then it’s actually a really interesting and compelling story. I’ve been pleasantly surprised in reading this book, and I find myself thinking about the tale and the characters (and even the mountain life) for a long time after reading this. It’s definitely made me keen to read more of the author’s work.
-Thanks to Vertebrate Publishing for a free copy for review.
February 13, 2025
A very interesting, evocative read, and amazing for escapism. Sure, of its time in terms of language and plot development, but I don't mind that Frison-Roche is biased towards climbing/landscape descriptions over plot. It's very readable - I finished it in just a few days.
August 25, 2023
Un très beau récit sur le courage et la résilience, qui m’a surpris par la profondeur accordée aux personnages. La description des montagnes était splendide de précision. Je recommande.
October 16, 2024
Remarkable account of the daily beauties and tragedies of life in the alps. Read whilst being in Chamonix has me wanting to move to become a mountain guide. Incredible
February 8, 2025
Est ce que je deviendrai pas guide de montagne tiens?
August 25, 2025
Like the book. However super buddy buddy for me
January 23, 2025
Excellent reminder of the power and importance of friendships … and the immense skills, strength and courage of alpine guides.
November 2, 2025
Pas mal mais franchement daté
February 19, 2023
Très bien écrit pas trop long mais avec des détails
L’histoire est sympa et surtout il y a cette description de la montagne et du métier de guide qui est sympa
Pas un chef-d’œuvre mais une lecture agréable
L’histoire est sympa et surtout il y a cette description de la montagne et du métier de guide qui est sympa
Pas un chef-d’œuvre mais une lecture agréable
July 21, 2024
Gloriously written.
May 1, 2018
IL romanzo di montagna!! Un classico racconto di formazione scritto Frison-Roche, capo delle guide di Chamonix negli anni Quaranta, non che giornalista e scrittore. Frison- Roche è una “sorta” di Salgari delle Alpi. Ed in effetti “sorta” denota bene lo stile del libro, scritto negli anni ‘40 e tradotto poco dopo. Se si è pronti quindi, ad un romanzo dolcemente prevedibile e dai toni un po’ enfatici (ma senza esagerare), questo racconto dicevo (dalla tecnica narrativa eccellente - a differenza di Salgari....) può piacere molto. Un buon ritmo e un’ottimo incastro di fatti e personaggi; ritratti di persone (le guide, i portatori, il medico, le donne mogli/figlie/fidanzate delle guide), di ambienti (i rifugi, la stanza delle guide, la stazione ferroviaria di Montanvers e i suoi turisti, la pensioncina della guida e i suoi avventori) e della vita sui monti (l’alpeggio, i combattimenti tra mucche, la fattura del formaggio o di una casa) tutti eccellenti e molto interessanti; descrizioni superbe delle montagne (non è affatto facile descriverle a parole!!), in ogni anfratto, in ogni stagione, in ogni momento del giorno e della notte (scritti chiaramente da uno che sa quello che dice perché li ha vissuti in prima persona); ed infine veramente un buon lavoro sui sentimenti che abitano le persone, soprattutto quelli negativi - e di come il loro superamento fa di noi delle persone migliori perché più mature. Una bella storia: semplice ma veramente ben scritta e con una morale che seppur non nuova è sempre molto valida.
February 12, 2017
I have been raised on Frison-Roche stories. I can't really remember by which I began, the book or the 1999 Hiroz & Niermans film, but Premier de Cordée was definitely one of the stories that struck me as a teen.
The writing is gorgeous. With the character of Pierre Servettaz, Frison-Roche perfectly illustrates the struggle to choose between the comfortable and warm cocoon of home and family, and the breathtaking, vertiginous allure of the Alps.
His description of the valley of Chamonix will make you come out of the novel with an irresistible need to put your hiking boots (back) on and seek that feeling of freedom and exhilaration yourself.
The writing is gorgeous. With the character of Pierre Servettaz, Frison-Roche perfectly illustrates the struggle to choose between the comfortable and warm cocoon of home and family, and the breathtaking, vertiginous allure of the Alps.
His description of the valley of Chamonix will make you come out of the novel with an irresistible need to put your hiking boots (back) on and seek that feeling of freedom and exhilaration yourself.
October 6, 2022
J’ai adoré les précisions et la beauté des descriptions de ce livre de montagnards endurcis. C’était comme si j’y étais (mais en restant au chaud sous ma couette).
October 16, 2024
Nederlands:
Ik heb het boek “Premier De Cordée” van Frisson Roche gelezen en ik kan maar één ding zeggen: het boek is zeer goed. Als bewonderaar van de bergen heb ik gedoken in de wereld van het alpinisme. Het boek laat je kennismaken met het leven van de berggidsen in Chamonix, waarbij de aandacht vooral uitgaat naar het personage Pierre Servettaz in de jaren 1920 en 1930. Pierre wilde berggids worden net als zijn vader Jean, maar Jean wilde niet dat hij zoveel risico's nam, dus werd Pierre gedwongen om hotelier te worden. Hij beoefende bergbeklimmen als hobby. Zijn vader Jean werd erkend als een van de besten en op een dag vertrok hij naar Les Drus, twee bergtoppen in de Alpen en Haute-Savoie gelegen in het Massif de Mon Blanc op een hoogte van 3754 meter. Hij nam zijn drager Georges à la Clarisse en hun Amerikaanse klant, Bradford Warfield Junior, mee.
Pierre is een rond personage, omdat we zijn ontwikkeling in de loop van het verhaal volgen. Hij is dynamisch en we leren hem goed kennen.
Frisson Roche gebruikt verschillende perspectieven in het verhaal om momenten van twijfel en spanning te creëren. Meestal vinden we alwetende perspectieven. De auteur kan bijvoorbeeld elementen van het plot onthullen waar de personages nog niets van weten, waardoor spanning wordt gecreëerd, zoals wanneer Jean door de bliksem wordt getroffen. Peter wist het nog niet, maar de auteur probeerde al spanning te creëren.
Het boek leerde me dat de berg een levend wezen is dat je niet kunt negeren. Als er tekenen zijn dat het fout gaat, kun je je het beste terugtrekken.
Het boek was een van de beste die ik ooit heb gelezen. Ik heb genoten van het verhaal, dat erg goed verteld was. Omdat ik een fan ben van de bergen, was het lezen van dit boek een plezier voor mij. Bovendien is het verhaal erg aangrijpend en vol details, die de moed van de gidsen in de jaren 1920 en 1930 tonen.
Français:
J'ai lu le livre de Frisson Roche intitulé "Premier De Cordée" et je ne peux que dire une chose: Le livre est vraiment bien. En tant qu'admirateur de la montagne, je me suis plongé dans l'univers de l'alpinisme. Le livre vous présente la vie des alpinistes à Chamonix principalement axé sur le personnage Pierre Servettaz dans les années 1920-1930. Pierre aimerait devenir guide de haute montagne comme son père Jean, mais Jean refuse qu'il prenne autant de risques et Pierre est alors forcé à devenir hôtelier. Il pratique l'alpinisme comme loisir. Son père Jean était reconnu comme étant l'un des meilleurs, un jour il parta aux Drus qui constituent deux pics d'une montagne des Alpes et de Haute-Savoie situéées dans le massig deu mon blanc à 3754 mètres d'altitude. Avec lui il emporte son porteur Georges à la Clarisse et leur client Américain, Bradford Warfield Junior.
Pierre est un personnage rond car on suit son évolution au cours de l'histoire. Il est dynamique et on apprend à bien le connaître.
Frisson Roche utilise plusieurs perspectives au cours de l'histoire pour créer des moments de doutes et de tension. La plupart du temps on trouvera des perspectives omnisciente. Par exemple, L'auteur peut nous révéler des éléments que les personnages ignorent encore, créant ainsi de la tension et du suspense.
Le livre m'a appris que la montagne est un être vivant que l'on ne peut négliger. Quand des signes nous indiquent que les choses vont mal se passer, il vaut mieux se retirer.
Le livre était un des meilleurs livres que j'ai lu. J'ai profité de l'histoire qui était extrêmement bien écrite. Étant un fan de la montagne, lire ce livre était un régal pour moi. De plus, l'histoire est très prenante et pleine de détails qui vous dévoilent le courage des guides de haute montagne.
Ik heb het boek “Premier De Cordée” van Frisson Roche gelezen en ik kan maar één ding zeggen: het boek is zeer goed. Als bewonderaar van de bergen heb ik gedoken in de wereld van het alpinisme. Het boek laat je kennismaken met het leven van de berggidsen in Chamonix, waarbij de aandacht vooral uitgaat naar het personage Pierre Servettaz in de jaren 1920 en 1930. Pierre wilde berggids worden net als zijn vader Jean, maar Jean wilde niet dat hij zoveel risico's nam, dus werd Pierre gedwongen om hotelier te worden. Hij beoefende bergbeklimmen als hobby. Zijn vader Jean werd erkend als een van de besten en op een dag vertrok hij naar Les Drus, twee bergtoppen in de Alpen en Haute-Savoie gelegen in het Massif de Mon Blanc op een hoogte van 3754 meter. Hij nam zijn drager Georges à la Clarisse en hun Amerikaanse klant, Bradford Warfield Junior, mee.
Pierre is een rond personage, omdat we zijn ontwikkeling in de loop van het verhaal volgen. Hij is dynamisch en we leren hem goed kennen.
Frisson Roche gebruikt verschillende perspectieven in het verhaal om momenten van twijfel en spanning te creëren. Meestal vinden we alwetende perspectieven. De auteur kan bijvoorbeeld elementen van het plot onthullen waar de personages nog niets van weten, waardoor spanning wordt gecreëerd, zoals wanneer Jean door de bliksem wordt getroffen. Peter wist het nog niet, maar de auteur probeerde al spanning te creëren.
Het boek leerde me dat de berg een levend wezen is dat je niet kunt negeren. Als er tekenen zijn dat het fout gaat, kun je je het beste terugtrekken.
Het boek was een van de beste die ik ooit heb gelezen. Ik heb genoten van het verhaal, dat erg goed verteld was. Omdat ik een fan ben van de bergen, was het lezen van dit boek een plezier voor mij. Bovendien is het verhaal erg aangrijpend en vol details, die de moed van de gidsen in de jaren 1920 en 1930 tonen.
Français:
J'ai lu le livre de Frisson Roche intitulé "Premier De Cordée" et je ne peux que dire une chose: Le livre est vraiment bien. En tant qu'admirateur de la montagne, je me suis plongé dans l'univers de l'alpinisme. Le livre vous présente la vie des alpinistes à Chamonix principalement axé sur le personnage Pierre Servettaz dans les années 1920-1930. Pierre aimerait devenir guide de haute montagne comme son père Jean, mais Jean refuse qu'il prenne autant de risques et Pierre est alors forcé à devenir hôtelier. Il pratique l'alpinisme comme loisir. Son père Jean était reconnu comme étant l'un des meilleurs, un jour il parta aux Drus qui constituent deux pics d'une montagne des Alpes et de Haute-Savoie situéées dans le massig deu mon blanc à 3754 mètres d'altitude. Avec lui il emporte son porteur Georges à la Clarisse et leur client Américain, Bradford Warfield Junior.
Pierre est un personnage rond car on suit son évolution au cours de l'histoire. Il est dynamique et on apprend à bien le connaître.
Frisson Roche utilise plusieurs perspectives au cours de l'histoire pour créer des moments de doutes et de tension. La plupart du temps on trouvera des perspectives omnisciente. Par exemple, L'auteur peut nous révéler des éléments que les personnages ignorent encore, créant ainsi de la tension et du suspense.
Le livre m'a appris que la montagne est un être vivant que l'on ne peut négliger. Quand des signes nous indiquent que les choses vont mal se passer, il vaut mieux se retirer.
Le livre était un des meilleurs livres que j'ai lu. J'ai profité de l'histoire qui était extrêmement bien écrite. Étant un fan de la montagne, lire ce livre était un régal pour moi. De plus, l'histoire est très prenante et pleine de détails qui vous dévoilent le courage des guides de haute montagne.
June 21, 2020
n 1942 author and famous Chamonix Mountain Guide Roger Frison- Roche wrote Premier de Cordee, which was translated into English last year by Janet Adam- Smith. Two years ago, we had an exhilarating walking holiday based in Chamonix and we were privileged to experience being amongst the spectacular high mountains that tower over the town. Reading First on the Rope I could imagine in my mind’s eye and have some sense of the thrill and even danger experienced by the characters in this gripping book.
The book begins with a guide and his porter taking a wealthy American client to the Petit Dru which overlooks the famous Mer de Glace. Unfortunately, bad weather closes in and the guide advises that they abandon the push for the summit. However, the client insists that they push on. On the way down disaster strikes. Further calamity hits another party on the same mountain.
The later part of the book is about the struggle by two young men involved in the incidents to regain their confidence and to continue to their drive to resume their careers as mountain guides. Their struggle culminates with a difficult ascent of another mountain above the Chamonix valley.
Being a mountain guide himself Frison- Roche can write beautiful descriptions of mountain scenery which conveys the ambience of being amongst the high alpine peaks and to write scenes of real drama enabling us to feel something of what is like for a climber to engage in life and death struggles with unstable rock and ice in savage unforgiving conditions. Frison- Roche also describes with great feeling and tenderness the camaraderie amongst the guiding families, who support each other through difficult times.
First on the rope is a classic mountaineering book which gave me great pleasure as it allowed me to relive some of the thrilling moments I too have experienced amongst the high mountains of the alps.
The book begins with a guide and his porter taking a wealthy American client to the Petit Dru which overlooks the famous Mer de Glace. Unfortunately, bad weather closes in and the guide advises that they abandon the push for the summit. However, the client insists that they push on. On the way down disaster strikes. Further calamity hits another party on the same mountain.
The later part of the book is about the struggle by two young men involved in the incidents to regain their confidence and to continue to their drive to resume their careers as mountain guides. Their struggle culminates with a difficult ascent of another mountain above the Chamonix valley.
Being a mountain guide himself Frison- Roche can write beautiful descriptions of mountain scenery which conveys the ambience of being amongst the high alpine peaks and to write scenes of real drama enabling us to feel something of what is like for a climber to engage in life and death struggles with unstable rock and ice in savage unforgiving conditions. Frison- Roche also describes with great feeling and tenderness the camaraderie amongst the guiding families, who support each other through difficult times.
First on the rope is a classic mountaineering book which gave me great pleasure as it allowed me to relive some of the thrilling moments I too have experienced amongst the high mountains of the alps.
January 22, 2024
Pierre Servettaz stammt aus einer Familie von Bergführern. Seit Generationen begleiten die Männer der Familie zahlende Kunden durch die Berge von Chamonix. Auch Pierre möchte Bergführer werden, aber sein Vater hat andere Pläne für den jungen Mann. Pierre fügt sich dem Willen des Vaters, doch ein tragisches Unglück verändert alles.
Erster am Seil gilt als einer der großen Bergsteigerromane. Er spielt in den 20er Jahren des letzten Jahrhunderts, einer Zeit, in der die Berge den Männern vorbehalten waren. Deshalb hat es einige Seiten gedauert, bis die erste Frau, Pierres Mutter, überhaupt erwähnt wurde. Frauen blieben auf dem Hof und kümmerten sich um die Familie, während die Männer mit zahlenden Kunden in die Berge stiegen und das Geld für die Familie heimbrachten.
Dass der Autor etwas vom Bergsteigen versteht, konnte ich bei der Lektüre merken. Es gab deutlich mehr Beschreibungen von Klettertechniken als von der Landschaft, was ich interessant fand, für andere Leser vielleicht zu trocken sein kann. Auch mit Beschreibungen von Gefühlen hat sich der Autor schwer getan. Sein Stil war manchmal fast schon zu knapp, aber as hat zu den Charakteren der Männer gepasst, die er beschrieben hat.
Auch wenn das Buch einige Jahre auf dem Buchrücken hat, fand ich das Buch immer noch aktuell. Die Balance zwischen Bergtourismus und dem Überleben in einer kargen Region ist nicht immer leicht zu halten.
Erster am Seil gilt als einer der großen Bergsteigerromane. Er spielt in den 20er Jahren des letzten Jahrhunderts, einer Zeit, in der die Berge den Männern vorbehalten waren. Deshalb hat es einige Seiten gedauert, bis die erste Frau, Pierres Mutter, überhaupt erwähnt wurde. Frauen blieben auf dem Hof und kümmerten sich um die Familie, während die Männer mit zahlenden Kunden in die Berge stiegen und das Geld für die Familie heimbrachten.
Dass der Autor etwas vom Bergsteigen versteht, konnte ich bei der Lektüre merken. Es gab deutlich mehr Beschreibungen von Klettertechniken als von der Landschaft, was ich interessant fand, für andere Leser vielleicht zu trocken sein kann. Auch mit Beschreibungen von Gefühlen hat sich der Autor schwer getan. Sein Stil war manchmal fast schon zu knapp, aber as hat zu den Charakteren der Männer gepasst, die er beschrieben hat.
Auch wenn das Buch einige Jahre auf dem Buchrücken hat, fand ich das Buch immer noch aktuell. Die Balance zwischen Bergtourismus und dem Überleben in einer kargen Region ist nicht immer leicht zu halten.
August 6, 2023
4
Bought in chamonix right after backpacking around the mount blanc massif, the mountain the book is about!! So it was extra special when I was reading it- I could literally see the mountain and the places it was talking about, also makes the perfect souvenir for our bookshelf-so of course I loved it and cherished it
I will say at points it’s obvious that it is translated and the language can be hard, but I feel like considering it’s a classic it was understandable and approachable. Lots lots lots of descriptive writing, could have done more character development-still loved the characters. It was a bit of a different pace for me but I loved it all the same:) if you need a mountain adventure-one that will transport you to the high mountains this is it
Bought in chamonix right after backpacking around the mount blanc massif, the mountain the book is about!! So it was extra special when I was reading it- I could literally see the mountain and the places it was talking about, also makes the perfect souvenir for our bookshelf-so of course I loved it and cherished it
I will say at points it’s obvious that it is translated and the language can be hard, but I feel like considering it’s a classic it was understandable and approachable. Lots lots lots of descriptive writing, could have done more character development-still loved the characters. It was a bit of a different pace for me but I loved it all the same:) if you need a mountain adventure-one that will transport you to the high mountains this is it
March 28, 2024
Pour ramener à bon port le corps de son père, foudroyé en pleine ascension, Pierre est prêt à braver tous les dangers. À Chamonix, les guides se mobilisent: Servettaz était le meilleur d'entre eux. La montagne est une redoutable tueuse, elle sélectionne impitoyablement ses victimes. Celles-ci le savent bien qui la consomment comme une drogue, et la portent dans leur sang. Une histoire de passion, au courage et à la solidarité des hommes.
Un texte qui nous emporte, des hommes au coeur pur, un hymne à la montagne et à la vie.
Un texte qui nous emporte, des hommes au coeur pur, un hymne à la montagne et à la vie.
March 23, 2025
A splendid story of the incredible trials and tribulations of mountaineering in the Alps during the 1930s. The translation of this French classic is possibly slightly clunky, but is perhaps also the style of writing of that era, and does not detract from the drama.
I certainly learned a great deal about the challenges presented to mountain guides at that time, along with several climbing techniques and mountaineering terminology. An intriguing and gripping tale - both mentally and physically(!) - of man versus Mother Nature!
I certainly learned a great deal about the challenges presented to mountain guides at that time, along with several climbing techniques and mountaineering terminology. An intriguing and gripping tale - both mentally and physically(!) - of man versus Mother Nature!
September 22, 2025
I will admit my views are GREATLY colored because I just came back from a hiking trip of the TMB where we stayed in Chamonix afterwords. So this book was a love letter to the town and the mountains I walked across for 11 days. It was fascinating to glimps into a climbers world back in the 1930's. It is fully about the mountain life. But also coupled with that it is thinly talking about deeper meanings and social matters within this friend group. Very much a collection of stories written by a man living in the mountains.
November 1, 2018
Pour les amoureux de la montagne et ceux qui ont le goût de l'aventure Frison-Roche nous amènent sur les plus haut sommets des Alpes. Entre les cimes vertigineuses et les glaciers, il nous entraîne à la suite de Pierre, homme du pays, qui suite à un grave accident souffre du vertige, terrible mal pour un alpiniste ! Ce roman donne soif d'aventure et nous montre que rien n'est impossible à celui qui veut!
April 1, 2020
Le fait d'avoir visité la région de Chamonix, où tout le livre se déroule, m'a amenée à cette lecture.
Le petit monde des guides de montagne professionnels est très fermé et très masculin. Les sentiments s'y expriment peu même s'il y règne respect et franche camaraderie.
Pierre, personnage central, ne veut montrer que son courage et ses aptitudes d'alpiniste mais ce n'est pas toujours facile !
Le petit monde des guides de montagne professionnels est très fermé et très masculin. Les sentiments s'y expriment peu même s'il y règne respect et franche camaraderie.
Pierre, personnage central, ne veut montrer que son courage et ses aptitudes d'alpiniste mais ce n'est pas toujours facile !
August 30, 2021
👍👍👍
The author told rather than showing but the subject was compelling to me. Characters not well drawn.
Showed danger and unpredictability of Alpine climbing. Horrendous scene of a guide being hit by lightening and the attempts to get his body down.
Wouldn’t recommend due to subject and writing.
The author told rather than showing but the subject was compelling to me. Characters not well drawn.
Showed danger and unpredictability of Alpine climbing. Horrendous scene of a guide being hit by lightening and the attempts to get his body down.
Wouldn’t recommend due to subject and writing.
November 21, 2023
Une très belle decouverte, un roman d'aventures montagnarde comme on peut l'imaginer. On va suivre des guides de montagnes qui gravissent les montagnes de la vallée de Chamonix. Le tout mené de péripéties et d'embuches a surmonter.
Ne vous fiez pas a la date de publication et entamer cette marche avec Pierre.
Ne vous fiez pas a la date de publication et entamer cette marche avec Pierre.
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