Appetite is a lite-bite read. Sorry to say, it didn’t satisfy my taste in reading; I wanted more, expected more!
About a quarter of the way through, I wondered whether I’d misread the synopsis on Kindle. Going back to Amazon’s page, I’m surprised at the overwhelming number of five star ratings and very, very few lower ones. The majority of these though are clearly prior fans of Ed Balls, from his participation in the celebrity dancing show and his hilarious Gangnam Style moves; they mentioned this upfront so I suspect glowing reviews would still have been forthcoming had a book been about lifelong involvement in seal clubbing. He can do no wrong.
One lone “critical reviewer” (Amazon’s term) - who still found it in their heart to give three stars - simply wrote, “OK but nothing to get excited about”. I’ll echo that.
To be fair, from his account, he seems a likeable guy, enjoys friends, loves his family. Though why would I be interested in that? Things became a bit more interesting when he spilled the beans on PM Gordon Brown’s general disinterest, and sometimes abject distrust, of any plate put in front of him; or a senior colleague, Peter Mandelson’s exquisite minimalist presentation of tomato soup luncheon with a side of lettuce. This is what I hoped for, and more of it besides. Disappointingly, we were soon back to family gatherings and the banal logistics of Sunday roasts and Saturday BBQs.
The idea of memoir-recipes, we’re told, stems from a daughter’s request when she’s on the point of flying the nest. The parents collaborate to create a book along with old family photos as mementos. This sounds like a wonderful idea. Appetite, however, is image free which is its loss considering we live in a world of readily accessible imagery. It’s also, possibly from its original premis, lacking in memorable mistakes. Only the soggy bottomed meat pie, from TV celebrity bake-off, is mentioned and even here he disputes the ruling of the professional judges.
Who will reach for this book for culinary inspiration instead of, say, Jamie Oliver, Rick Stein, Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall, Tom Kerridge or even The Hairy Bikers, on Youtube, fully demonstrating how it’s done? Ed Balls disagrees. In the final word, he celebrates the old fashion kitchen shelf cookbook, oblivious to its growing anachronism. Oh well, each to his own.
It’s well written and exceedingly positive, with warmth and love. If you’re already a fan of Ed Balls, more in his later celeb-for-hire career phase, this is definitely for you. For me, it’s OK but nothing to get excited about.
Two and a half stars (for the Gordon Brown insights).