An easy-to-read, empowering feminist book, following the stories of multiple women around the globe that are connected through one thing I love as well: Surfing. The circumstances to surfing are different for every one of them, and the author follows them for a fraction of their paths.
What I really liked is how self-aware Dörthe Eickelberg is in her book. Especially when she visits a young girl in Gaza, who’s future with surfing is uncertain, the author stops to think about her own western standards of freedom and luck. Is our european perception even theirs? Can we assume or categorise someone as unhappy or discriminated, when the world they live (and grew up) in is so different from ours?
D. Eickelbergs self-experiments regarding her „fear“ of Big Waves show her as an experimental and open woman, and the realisations she takes from other women and herself through surfing are so positive and empowering it’s definitely worth reading.
Thanks to my Dad for gifting me this book and making me read outside of my normal genres ❤️