Consumed was the first book I ever pre-ordered, and I was thrilled when I received it in the mail. I had been following Aja’s work on Instagram for years and was impressed with her informational—albeit informal—fast fashion presentation for the Slow Factory’s Open Education program this year. She has a talent for distilling complicated environmental and fashion concepts for a layman’s audience. However, Consumed makes bold, generalized claims—often lacking citations—and is poorly structured to the extent that crucial sections get lost in her asides and redundant platitudes. Perhaps this is a failure on the part of Grand Central Publishing, who didn’t provide Aja with an editor? Regardless, Consumed misses the mark, as its shortcomings eclipse some of the most important discussions in the book: the impact of textile waste in Ghana's Kantamanto Market, Anannya Bhattacharjee’s take on labor rights for garment workers in Asia, and Aja’s tips on how to get off the hedonistic capitalist treadmill as a Global North consumer.
Aja makes many blanket statements in Consumed. In fact, one of her chapters is titled, “How Society Works,” a bold claim, since she doesn’t explicitly disclaim that she’s referring to society in the Global North. Additionally, she argues that “wealth inequality is at its widest gap ever” on page 118, and “planned obsolescence is a trick as old as time” without providing any statistics to back up either claim. I think that the former statement can be supported with evidence while the latter…not so much (I’m pretty sure that planned obsolescence has only existed for the past 100 years or so.) I was also shocked that Aja cited Wikipedia multiple times in her book, providing definitions of “gender binary” on page 128-129, and “greenwashing” on page 160. Wikipedia is inconsistent at best, so Aja should have referred to more established sources here. Additionally, on page 204, Aja discusses a process by which a hypothetical Walmart moves into a small town and destroys the local economy—a phenomenon that I have definitely read about—but does not point to any real-life instance where this process took place. These are only a few examples of this greater pattern of hyperbole, which can be easily substantiated with deliberate research and citations.
From a structural standpoint, Aja could have omitted rhetorical questions and statements like “I couldn’t agree more,” which cheapen the content of the preceding paragraphs. Aja tries to squeeze as many of her thoughts as possible into this book, but this method does not work in her favor. For example, Aja feels the need to discuss the validity of vocational schools on page 192—which I agree are an important asset to any functioning society!— but uses up valuable real estate in her section about conspicuous consumption. On the flip side, I enjoyed her “Ways to Learn Actively” section on page 184-187, which serves as a template of how the whole book could have been organized, providing concrete, easy-to-follow tips on how to become a more conscious consumer. And it was only 3 pages!
I think that Aja can employ a few strategies for future books. For one, footnotes! Footnotes (especially à la Junot Díaz in The Brief Wonderous Life of Oscar Wao) can be incredibly useful here, since Aja provides a lot of personal commentary in her work. That way, readers can absorb key facts and information more easily, and can refer to whatever primary source she cites. From an organizational and educational standpoint, I think that Aja can move the Urge/Purge exercises to a Discussion Questions section at the end of the book. And of course, she needs a bibliography to substantiate her claims.
Despite my criticisms, Aja’s work as a plus-sized, Black, sustainable fashion advocate cannot be underestimated, and I hope that her future work continues to positively influence her readers.