The Kingdom of Rye: A Brief History of Russian Food (Volume 77)

by Darra Goldstein

Celebrated food scholar Darra Goldstein takes readers on a vivid tour of history and culture through Russian cuisine.
 
The Kingdom of Rye unearths the foods and flavors of the Russian land. Preeminent food studies scholar Darra Goldstein offers readers a concise, engaging, and gorgeously crafted story of Russian cuisine and culture. This story demonstrates how national identity is revealed through food—and how people know who they are by what they eat together. The Kingdom of Rye examines the Russians' ingenuity in overcoming hunger, a difficult climate, and a history of political hardship while deciphering Russia's social structures from within. This is a domestic history of Russian food that serves up a deeper history, demonstrating that the wooden spoon is mightier than the scepter.
 

Genres: History, Food, Nonfiction, Russia, Food Writing

200 pages, Hardcover

Published May 24, 2022

Reviews

[Lina · Rating 5 out of 5]

I have, in the past, read one of Darra Goldstein's Russian cookbooks in bed, like it was a novel. The introductions to her recipes, where she writes about the history of the dish or technique, or a mention of it in Russian literature, were always the high points. The Kingdom of Rye is an entire book of that, and it was a pleasure to read.

For those who may be worried about reading this in the current climate, know that Goldstein, an American Jew with Ukrainian roots, does not glorify the Russian state, and indeed is very clear in assigning it blame for the Holodomor.

[Marina Furmanov · Rating 5 out of 5]

A dense book evaluating the ebbs and flows Russian cuisine took to get to today. Through the theatrical aspect of the multiple courses to Wheat to McDonald’s, the detail made me miss my moms Russian home cooking. Really great book about Russian culture through the lens of hundreds of years of food.

[alexandraly · Rating 5 out of 5]

I actually really enjoyed this, despite expecting its claims to be farfetched and hard to relate to. However, I found it a lovely and thoughtful etymological history of food and class relations. I did not really understand how the book was laid out, as there were several sections that were very reiterative and I found the timelines sometimes difficult to follow. Therefore, this is not as much a "history" but an argument.

I learned a lot from reading this book. Goldstein does a great job of explaining how historical patterns of foreign envy and nationalist sentiment repeat and recur in confluence with economic stability; how food IS economics. I found her Soviet era coverage especially compelling, and how the introduction of fast food gave Russia a renewed opportunity to experiment with what is "Russian". Given that this book covers up until COVID, I hope that there will be a second edition covering the most recent set of sanctions and McDonald's leaving.

I will definitely read her other novel, which is more of a recipe book. She also mentioned recipe books published by the USSR which I will look into.

[Kathy Piselli · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fascinating book of food mores in a harsh climate with a short growing season, a place to escape from, a place accustomed to privation. I liked the giant masonry stove of many uses, "chiming the storm" to help travelers overland, and the "normal hard times", including the Soviet food shortages both natural and manmade. I won't soon forget people milling about a place where "sausage was about to appear", having sussed this information out somehow. The word derivations throughout were very helpful to me, and the literary references were great. The author doesn't leave politics out, but it does not overwhelm her narrative except possibly in her Preface where in a discussion of the many problems she encountered, she explains how her "pursuit" was saved by Russian hospitality. "Ordinary people asked me to dinner. We crowded around tiny tables, eating with mismatched plates and forks in tiny, rudimentary kitchens, and the food was delicious." I was only sorry she didn't go on to mention what her grandmother had to say about that.

[Yaakov Bressler · Rating 4 out of 5]

A delightful overview of the history, depth, and significance of Russian food. First part of the book heavily emphasizes rye, which I was eager to read about. 2nd half of the book focuses on food tradition.

Is less anthropological than what I was hoping for. But the book did give me a deeper appreciation for the uniqueness of Russian cuisine.

After reading this book, I want to read more about Russia's famines and how people survived.

[Benjamin Swinchoski · Rating 4 out of 5]

A comprehensive humanization of the "common" Russian people through a detailed discussion of Russian food culture throughout the years and its connection to the Russian values of resilience and inventiveness. I read this for WGSS S263 class at Yale.

[Brittney]

Great book.