Groundbreaking recipes for real desserts--sweetened entirely by fruit and other natural, unexpectedly sweet ingredients--from a pastry cook who's worked at acclaimed restaurants in New York and France.
Brian Levy spent years making pastries the traditional way, with loads of refined sugar and white flour, at distinguished restaurants, inns, and private homes in the United States and Europe. But he discovered another world of desserts--one that few bakers have explored--where there's no need for cane sugar or coconut sugar, for maple syrup or honey, or for anything like stevia. When Levy succeeded in making a perfect mango custard, harnessing only the natural sweetness of fruit with no added sugar, it was a breakthrough that inspired years of experimentation converting other desserts into nutritious indulgences.
In Good & Sweet, Levy stretches this experiment across 100 recipes that ingeniously deploy fruit (dried, juiced, and fresh), nuts, grains, dairy, and fermented products to create sweet treats whose flavor is enriched by whole-food, feel-good ingredients. Every recipe offers substitutions for dietary restrictions and includes a flavorful sweetener that exceeds cane sugar, from freeze-dried sweet corn to coconut cream and apple cider. A Pistachio-Studded Peach Galette gets its wings from fresh fruit, dried apricots, and orange juice; chestnuts, golden raisins, and dried apples perform a pas de trois in Chestnut Ricotta Ice Cream; and dates, milk powder, and a touch of miso paste make for a dense, caramely Sticky Toffee Pudding Cake. With sweets like these--ones that nudge you toward mindful eating but don't compromise flavor--you'll never have to give up dessert.
I disagree with many of the reviews here. A. I don’t think the ingredients are too obscure or hard to find B. I think the recipes are healthier versions of desserts. If you’re watching your overall sugar intake, that’s one thing. But fruit in any form tends to be healthier than cane sugar, and it adds color, flavor and fiber. The book had helpful supplemental information and beautiful images. Excited to make several of the recipes!
When a copy of Brian Levy’s Good & Sweet arrived in the mail, I felt leery about the subject matter. To be honest, I am tired of the narrative of sugar being unhealthy – has there ever been a time when someone ate sugar because it was healthy? I find that these narratives set up sugar as a false opposite – while refined sugar is “bad,” books go on to convince home cooks of the “virtues” of sweet alternatives. This isn’t to say that people don’t have feelings about sugar, because they do, which is why there’s a drive to discover a way to enjoy baking without using traditional sweeteners. So, when I opened Levy’s book and started to read through it, I realized that the purpose of Levy’s book focused less on talking overtly about health and more on providing an exploration of ingredients. In the same way there are books that delve into baking using different types of flour beyond the typical white, all-purpose variety, Good & Sweet leaves behind refined sugars, honey, syrups (e.g., maple, agave, corn) to exclusively use fruits – in various forms – as sweeteners. Additionally, he looks at how the sweetness in other whole food ingredients – such as, nuts, dairy, grains – lends themselves to the overall flavour and texture of a dessert.
Throughout his introduction, Levy explains what brought him to experiment in baking without sugar, and he also outlines the function of sugar beyond using it for sweetness – texture, flavour, colour, etc. He tells us, “There was no single understudy that could swoop in to cover all those roles. A lot of auditioning was going to be required. I had to focus on breakthroughs: There were things I couldn’t do for want of sugar (meringue!), but it was amazing how many things I *could* make without it.” (15) What Levy gives us is a book full of wonderful recipes that he arrived at through careful recipe development. He has a sincere desire for home cooks to enjoy themselves through innovative uses of non-traditional sweeteners.
One of the most important things I learned from Good & Sweet is that date sugar is really not sugar at all. When I ordered a bag of it online, I expected something that was like sugar: granular and gritty. Instead, what I found was a light brown powder. Reading through Levy’s section on ingredients, he tells us that date sugar is really dehydrated dates that have been ground up into a powder. If a person was to add water, what they would find is a lovely date puree. What this means is that date sugar/powder is not a 1:1 substitute for sugar. The section on ingredients gives the home cook a perfect primer on how Levy is able to create beautifully sweetened baked goods using an array of alternative ingredients. The use of fruit is the most prevalent in the book, and it’s used in a variety of forms – juice, pureed, freeze-dried. While most of the recipes aren’t vegan or gluten-free, Levy provides recipes for vegan alternatives (like butter, cream cheese, crème fraiche) as well as recipes for gluten-free flour blends that can be used throughout the book. The appendix also offers at-a-glance lists of recipes if you’re looking for quick recipes, recipes containing only easy-to-find ingredients, recipes by season and vegan recipes. One of the features I appreciated most of all in Good & Sweet is the *What makes it sweet?* section added to the recipe head notes. It’s here that Levy outlines which ingredient(s) make the treat sweet, so, for example, when I made the Coffee Bean Panna Cotta, I know it’s the dates and coconut that make this panna cotta good and sweet.
Good & Sweet is organized into 8 main chapters – 1. Breakfast, 2. Cookies, Bars, & Confections, 3. Starring Fruit, 4. Pies & Tarts, 5. Cakes, 6. Custards & Creams, 7. Frozen, and 8. Basics/Elements. While some of the ingredients, such as the freeze-dried fruit or date powder may need to be ordered online, most of the ingredients are ones you can find at your local grocery store. As I mentioned earlier, Levy does a thorough job of outlining the ingredients he uses in the book in a section at the beginning, and he also gives a useful list of equipment. To make anything from this book, you will definitely need a food processor. He also lists a stand mixer as an essential item as well. I also appreciate that he uses weighted measurements in all of his recipes, making the kitchen scale invaluable here.
Out of all the things I’ve tried from Good & Sweet, the Babylonian Swirls are my favourite! A buttery pastry descended from the Iraqi kleicha and the ancient Babylonian qullupu, this small, yeasted bun contains a swirl of a date butter filling. Both the dough and the filling are liberally scented with ground cardamom, which behaves in a very sweet way. Delicious with an afternoon coffee or as a lunchbox snack, these Swirls are wonderful.
Sugar offers such a dominating and pervasive experience, so how would the sweetness offered by other ingredients compare to the sweetness of sugar? From everything I’ve made from Good & Sweet so far, we’ve been completely satisfied. The flavour profiles are more complex too. Take the Date, Rye and Olive Oil Brownies for example: rich and fudgy like a traditional brownie, the dates (nearing a pound in weight) offer both a sweet flavour and chewy texture but they also highlight the subtle nuttiness of the rye flour and umaminess of the cocoa powder. The flavour is rich, but in a more nuanced way. Instead of the rich decadence offered by sugar, the rich flavour here touches all parts of the tongue. After I finished one brownie, I wanted another because there is a moreish quality to this combination of ingredients.
Good & Sweet offers us more than just baking. I was curious to try something from the Custards & Creams section, so I decided on making the Coffee Bean Panna Cotta. Since I didn’t have any gelatin powder on hand, I used agar-agar powder from the notes on suggested substitutions. The recipe has very few ingredients – canned coconut cream, gelatin powder, dates, finely ground coffee beans, and vanilla extract – but, when tasting the set panna cotta, you’d think there was more! In the recipe head notes, Levy aptly described this panna cotta as being reminiscent of “decadently sweet and creamy lattes.” And it’s worth noting that the substitution of agar-agar was seamless – the dessert set up exactly as it should.
To be honest, I wasn’t sure what to expect from Levy’s book, but it’s clear that his years of careful experimentation and recipe development have created an original and unique look at how home cooks can use natural sweeteners in delicious and satisfying ways.
I would like to take this opportunity to thank Penguin Random House Canada and Avery Books for providing me with a free, review copy of this book. I did not receive monetary compensation for my post, and all thoughts and opinions expressed are my own.
I was super excited for the concept of this book! I already make lots of sugar subs, including things like cream cheese frosting sweetened with dates instead of sugar. But the recipes in this book just weren’t particularly enticing flavors or texture for me. And claiming that orange juice and dehydrated banana powder are healthier than cane sugar is a bit misleading to my mind.
Who among us is not trying to eat healthier? I thought so.
Well then, this book may be for you. It is a collection of desserts sweetened with whole foods such as nuts and fruits. NO ADDED SUGAR.
The first four pages is the Introduction – autobiographical if you will. I was actually sad when it ended. I was quite enjoying it! I love a good autobiography, especially one food related. It makes for a great read.
Brian Levy, the author, makes a bold statement of which I have been struggling with myself. “…there are almost always alternative routes, outside of long-established recipes, to delicious dishes.” I am trying Brian! I am trying! I have a tough time straying from a recipe. Except for onion and garlic which I abhor. I have no problem skipping them. But if a recipe tells me to stand on my head and sing a Beatles tune whilst whisking my sauce, by golly I’m gonna do it.
I love this: “dessert has to be irresistible, or there’s just no point.” #TRUTH
Brian recommends that we, when using his recipes, lick the spoon/batter. Sure! Ok! You do not have to tell me twice!
An ingredients list starts on page 21, and yay, it is all normal easy to find food. Except for Chestnut flour. Who knew?
Ooh there are some clever uses for freeze-dried fruit.
The equipment section only had 2 items I do not have: Digital Scale – I have analog. I like kicking it old school. Pie Weights – that’s another who knew for me. So don’t be scared. You are probably okay as well!
Oh fun! There are Fruit Files. Sadly, no Agent Fox Mulder. The fruit files divulge some historical facts, geographical facts, and the all too important how to tell when ripe tip.
There are two recipes for Apple Butter in here. One for every day. One for special days as it is a Bourbon Apple Butter 😊. I usually get my Apple Butter from Pennsylvania’s Amish. I shudder to think of the amount of sugar they be using. And probably never Bourbon.
I have over 100 cookbooks. Just when I think there is nothing else for me to learn, I learn more! That’s a sign of a great book to me.
Also, very important to me is photos. There is no lack of stunning photos within! But not every recipe gets a photo. But at lease the ones we get are lovely!
As a life-long Pennsylvanian I am (was) a fan of the Goldenberg’s Peanut Chew. There is a recipe here for peanut-chew sans chocolate. So, I’m thinking I can drizzle some chocolate (sugar free of course) atop it and call it a Goldenberg’s! I’m so excited!
I love all things Autumnal especially in cooking. Pumpkin, Cinnamon, Ginger, All Spice, Nutmeg, Cloves. Yum. So, I’m super excited for the Spiced Pumpkin Pie. The crust is not vegan (Actually no crusts are vegan in this book) so I need to find one elsewhere.
Sadly, none of the cakes are vegan either. BUT the Peanut Butter Cream (frosting) is! It sounds amazing.
The Coffee Panna Cotta looks amazing!
I’m also looking forward to the Banana Date Lime Ice Cream.
Another teensy gripe. The recipes are somewhat on the fancy side for me. I’m a simple girl, so I would not have minded more simplistic recipes. For instance, I have no idea what Bizcocho, Frangipane, Crème Fraiche, etc. are. And for some of these new to me fancy sounding recipes there are no pictures. Sure, I can google/brave it. But still. As I said teensy gripe.
DISCLAIMER: I knew before I purchased this book that it was not a full Vegan cookbook. Some recipes are naturally vegan or a vegan alternative is given. Some recipes are labeled GF, DF and/or V. I’m sad there were still some great ones I have no idea how to veganize (some use Butter, Eggs, Heavy Cream, Buttermilk, Ricotta, etc.). So, to all my vegan friends you are warned. Regardless I love this cookbook as it is all whole foods, no added sugar. Note: there is a recipe for Vegan Butter in the end of the book. You just need to be prepared as it takes two hours. Bonus is that it can be frozen!
SECOND DISCLAIMER: I LOVE maple syrup. Truly LOVE it. Not on pancakes but in cooking, baking, and sauces. I put that *&%$! in everything. With that being said I’m still intrigued by this book!
Having tried my fair share of "less sugar" or "sugar alternative" recipes before, I was intrigued by Brian Levy's GOOD & SWEET because of its use of "naturally sweet ingredients." Baking without the use of refined sugar, or even sweeteners like maple syrup or honey, is a difficult task, and I applaud Levy for what must have been years of research and testing.
With that said, I don't know if I would bake a lot of the recipes from this book. I already have a go-to bread dough recipe that doesn't contain sugar, so I'm confused why the bread dough recipe in here has you put in date sugar. Speaking of date sugar, if you want to try this book, expect to buy a lot of it, as well as specialty flours, freeze-dried fruit, and coconut cream. The cookbook does include fantastic in-depth descriptions of how these provide natural sweetness, and each recipe also has a "What makes it sweet?" blurb that lets you quickly see what sweet ingredient is showcased. There are also some fun and informational "Fruit Files" fact sheets throughout, and I enjoyed learning about the different ingredients.
Innovative look at using natural ingredients like fruit and grains like Ethiopian tref instead of the usual sugar and substitutes. Photographs are beautiful. Preface material explaining the ingredients and philosophy well done, as are each recipe also with vegan and non-gluten markers. Definitely for those bakers who are not strangers to Whole Foods, etc. because much of what he uses are not commonly found in every grocery store. Prepping the ingredients seems also to be time consuming although worthy of that time. Recipes well-explained and broken down into Breakfast, Cookies, Bars, Cakes, and extras like pie crusts, etc. Not sure how practical this book was for me, but I would recommend it to those who truly feel the work is worth the health benefits. I would rather buy products like these in the cookbook than make them.
very beautiful book with well written recipes, but doesn’t seem very accessible for the average baker. I would have to order the majority of these flour and sugar alternatives online and so any of the recipes included here would run me about $15-40 for a single batch, which isn’t something I’m willing to spend, personally. if you live in a big city close to a nice specialty grocery store I’d say definitely check this one out!
Great idea for a book, one I was really excited for....but the recipes are either nothing I would want to bake, or contain ingredients I cannot find. Sure, I could buy them off amazon, but I won't because I would never use them and the cost is not justified. Just not for me.
interesting approach. wish he would use (or suggest alternate) everyday ingredients. I am going to try the chocolate, date, prune combo cupcakes and also he's inspired me to experiment with all the white mulberries I see around town.
I was excited to read this book but the recipes don’t especially appeal and I didn’t feel that the recipes were any healthier bc of the alternative sweeteners used.
A fascinating and unique concept. Some of these ingredients are perhaps a little difficult to come by, but for the intrepid baker there is much inspiration to be found in these pages.