Red Sauce: How Italian Food Became American

by Ian MacAllen

Tells the story of Italian food arriving in the United States and how your favorite red sauce recipes evolved into American staples.

In Red Sauce, Ian MacAllen traces the evolution of traditional Italian-American cuisine, often referred to as "red sauce Italian," from its origins in Italy to its transformation in America into a new, distinct cuisine. It is a fascinating social and culinary history exploring the integration of red sauce food into mainstream America alongside the blending of Italian immigrant otherness into a national American identity. The story follows the small parlor restaurants immigrants launched from their homes to large, popular destinations, and eventually to commodified fast food and casual dining restaurants. Some dishes like fettuccine Alfredo and spaghetti alla Caruso owe their success to celebrities, and Italian-American cuisine generally has benefited from a rich history in popular culture.

Drawing on inspiration from Southern Italian cuisine, early Italian immigrants to America developed new recipes and modified old ones. Ethnic Italians invented dishes like lobster fra Diavolo, spaghetti and meatballs, and veal parmigiana, and popularized foods like pizza and baked lasagna that had once been seen as overly foreign. Eventually, the classic red-checkered-table-cloth Italian restaurant would be replaced by a new idea of what it means for food to be Italian, even as 'red sauce' became entrenched in American culture. This book looks at how and why these foods became part of the national American diet, and focuses on the stories, myths, and facts behind classic (and some not so classic) dishes within Italian-American cuisine.

Genres: Food, History, Nonfiction, Italy, Cooking, Audiobook, Historical

227 pages, Kindle Edition

First published April 4, 2022

Reviews

[Scott · Rating 3 out of 5]

"Puttanesca sauce [is] especially rich and fragrant . . . [The sauce's name] is rooted in the word 'putana,' an Italian word that can mean 'tart.' The legend held that the sauce's quick preparation allowed sex workers a meal between customers without losing much time, because there is nothing a john wants more than the heavy stench of anchovies and garlic on the breath of his prostitute." -- page 142

I include the above-mentioned quote because it was one of the few sassy (saucy?) moments where the text broke away from a sort of bland narrative and became engaging. Admirers of history won't be very surprised at how Italian cuisine became commonplace in America - largely owing to either the mass Italian immigration to our northeastern cities at the dawn of the 20th century, or the U.S. military personnel developing a great appreciation of said fare from their extended time in Europe during WWII - but occasionally there were some pieces of trivia that were enlightening. To wit: lasagna became widely popular as a supper entree in the 1950's . . . because it was one of the early successful frozen dinners being marketed to booming suburban families. The author also discusses the various types of pasta noodles, household name brands or businesses (Chef Boyardee, Olive Garden, etc.), and some myths or misconceptions (no, Marco Polo did not introduce spaghetti to Italy after returning from China). Red Sauce will probably be most enjoyed by the 'foodie' crowd.

[theliterateleprechaun · Rating 4 out of 5]

Red sauce joints - we’ve all been there. Imagine oversized portions of pasta, red and white checked tablecloths, bottles of wine wrapped in straw or twine, and carafes of house red on every table. You’re smiling. You already know what I’m talking about. An Irish immigrant who was raised on potatoes, I looked forward to the ‘once in a blue moon’ opportunity for a family dinner at The Spaghetti Factory downtown. You don’t need to have eaten here to know exactly what it was like. Every town has its own version of a red sauce restaurant. What made them so popular? Why are they still in existence today?

I married into an Italian family who, in addition to making their own pasta, frequently referred to “spaghetti sauce” as “red sauce” or “red gravy.” I’ve always been curious about the reason behind their word choice and was thankful for an opportunity to read Ian MacAllen’s story. Before I even started reading, the eye-catching cover evoked memories of my childhood dining experiences.

MacAllen shares that red sauce refers to the tomato-based cuisine developed in the USA by immigrants who drew on the cooking traditions of southern Italy. He tells about Italian food arriving in the USA with the Italian immigrant and how our favourite red sauce recipes evolved into American staples. He clearly emphasizes that American red sauce cuisine is influenced by the traditions of Italian immigrants, but it is not Italian food.

I was interested in learning:
1. Why the Olive Garden doesn’t salt thier pasta water
2. How Chef Ettore Boiardi became famous
3. Why pasta water is added to tomato sauce
4. How an orphan working in the Cardinal’s kitchen was an inventor of tomato sauce
5. How the tomato is such a large part of Italian cuisine despite it not being cultivated there until recently

I was fascinated with the stories, myths and facts behind the classic dishes we find in our Italian-American cuisine and how the author believes the pandemic will affect the ‘red sauce cuisine.’ The information flows like a conversation, it's clearly well-researched, and every fact is backed up in an extensive endnote list.

Italians and foodies will appreciate the in-depth knowledge the author shares about pasta and tomato sauce.

I was gifted this advance copy by Ian MacAllen, Rowman & Littlefield, and NetGalley and was under no obligation to provide a review.

[bird · Rating 3 out of 5]

neither edited nor organized but my god was this guy reading archives and that said, eyyyyy

[Melissa · Rating 4 out of 5]

I was very excited to hear about this book. It made me think of the docuseries from Padma Lakshmi, Taste the Nation, that questions which immigrant foods became American and which remained othered or exotic. I was especially eager for a deep dive on my Italian-American culture, hoping to see my grandparents’ journey to America with my father reflected on the pages.

I picked this up mid pregnancy when I was squeezing in extra work before maternity leave— it was hard to focus on nonfiction print books (that weren’t about being pregnant). I was already doing a lot of reading for work and just wanted comfort reading, which for me is fiction. When reading this, I loved the intro and the first chapter but struggled to keep coming back to the book when I was also reading about soon-to-be third trimester issues (what joy!).

What I loved most though about the book, despite my pregnancy brain, was learning about the history of this food and my culture as a first-generation Italian American. This book is impeccably researched. It shows multiple angles to even minute details. I particularly loved the personal voice in the intro (and epilogue) and the blending of pop culture and history, especially in the first chapter, to assert a thesis about the American dream and how Italian American, and thus American, red sauce is.

My own focus for the book picked back up during maternity leave— when I wouldn’t have time to keep track of fictional characters and no longer wanted to read about babies since I was now contending with one (unless, of course, I was frantically scanning my phone for answers about a different type of feeding). It was easy to pick this up during quick nap times, jumping in and out as my son saw fit. I even read a few chapters aloud to him. He loved the cover.

The second half of the book goes through the history of particular sauces, developing ideas further from the overall history of immigration in the earlier chapters into an in-depth look at food trends and evolution of tastes through variations of red sauces. These were some of my favorite parts; they were hyper focused and easy to follow. Here and carried until the end, the book’s thesis evolves into not just one of the American Dream as the immigrant story but also the American Dream as commodification. It eventually ends by arguing that red sauce joints are authentic, which felt unexpected yet compelling.

This latter section had great lines too where the author’s voice shone through— the line about garlic breath and prostitutes stands out here, naturally. I did want this sarcasm more consistently throughout the book—every time the author’s own voice appeared, it made me smile. The voice is engaging. Perhaps more clearly defined introductions to chapters and/or rearranging earlier sections to avoid repetition would have left more room for his voice without sacrificing the level of research that he excels at as well.

When I was reading the latter half of the book, I started watching Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy. I recommend this pairing, as the show provides the visuals for some of what the book covers. The show’s mission differs, of course; it explores Italy by region vs tracing Italian American culture. However, (like many food docuseries today such as Taste the Nation), they often both share the stance that immigration makes food more interesting. They also both show how passionate people can be about the word authentic when it comes to Italian food.

Like Tucci’s show, this book is a love letter to a culture that we recognize broadly but don’t often stop to learn the particulars. It’s a book that makes me reflect on my own views of authenticity and my own cultural heritage.

After the first month of parenthood ended, my husband and I started cooking again. When we made pizza, we imagined the future pizza nights with our son, and I pictured the Sunday dinners we would have with our extended families like the ones I grew up with at my nonna’s—all around a table that featured our family red sauce.

[Ally · Rating 4 out of 5]

I come from a “red sauce family,” marked by distinct Italian-American cuisine rather than purely Italian cuisine. My great-grandparents moved to the West Village in the early 1900s after leaving Italy, and I imagine they lived through the evolution of “red sauce” cuisine here in the States. For this reason, and because I'm a major foodie, I was super excited to find this audiobook available on Libby!

While listening to this book amidst my everyday happenings, I learned that red sauce cuisine comes from the philosophy of “cucina povera," or "poor kitchen," which refers to a traditional Italian cooking style that emphasizes simplicity, resourcefulness, and the use of humble ingredients. Essentially, it's about making calorie-dense meals with whatever’s available.

Red sauce cuisine evolved as a result of the confluence of shifting immigration patterns, specifically from the southern region of Italy to New York (just like the path of my great-grandparents, who were from the Campania region).

My favorite quote: “The richer the food, the more love that was expressed.” I felt such love for my ancestors while reading this book, and I can't wait to continue learning about them!

[Jeremy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent travel down the foodways from Italy to America and beyond tracing the roots and evolution of red sauce and Italian and Italian-American cuisine.

[Bella · Rating 3 out of 5]

Such interesting tidbits in this book! It did feel a little text-book-y at times and I wish in those moments it leaned a bit more into a story telling mode, but it was still fascinating nonetheless.

[Tom · Rating 2 out of 5]

Repetitive and dull. How on Earth can someone write a dull book about Italian food???

[Michelle]

Finally had to put this down midway through chapter 5 due to whiplash. From one paragraph to the next the narrative jumps from Italy to the US and back again, or from the 1920s to the 1960s to the 1880s. Facts are repeated without any new insight or context; names are dropped but who they are isn't explained until several pages later. The author clearly did a ton of research but the book would have benefited from more effort to present the information in ways that a reader can follow.

[Mike Perrin · Rating 2 out of 5]

Relatively interesting, but very dry. Read like a research paper. Fun to learn about Italian-American culture and influence of American values on Italian cooking. Made me more open-minded (less snobby) about red sauce.

[Bill Marsano · Rating 5 out of 5]

REV Red Sauce
By Bill Marsano. Some 4,000,000 Italians emigrated to the U.S. between about 1880 and 1924, and one of the things they liked best about their new home was “abbondanza”—abundance. More food than they’d ever had before or even dreamt of. Peasants who could eat meat only on major holidays could suddenly eat meat once a week, and even more often. The Italy they fled was not the Italy we’ve known and loved since the 1960s—it was a desperately poor and often backward nation. Hence Italians who passed through the “golden door” could hardly believe their luck or, in the markets, their eyes. And so in their kitchens they created not Italian food but Italian-American food, commonly called “red sauce cooking. Based on pasta and tomato sauce, cheap but nourishing, that cuisine also migrated —from kitchen to the parlor, where America’s earliest Italian restaurants began. Catching on, it next moved into dedicated premises—homely and homey little neighborhood restaurants with red-checked tablecloths and straw-bootied Chianti bottles bearing candles. This is the splendid and delicious journey to which Ian MacAllen appliers his considerable talents as a researcher and his warm affection as a diner. The story is not a simple one, and if it is a little slow-moving in spots that’s because it involves large forces of cultural change: Prohibition (oddly it helped many Italian restaurants while killing French ones and others), plays a part, as do opera singers, agribusiness, the canning industry, Italy’s 20 regions, food-faddists and food writers, not to mention restaurant chains. These spread red-sauce cooking—but also damaged or perverted it (stuffed-crust pizza is a leading example). Spaghetti and meatballs, which is red sauce’s best-known creation, will probably last forever, but, MacAllen writes, red-sauce cooking itself and the restaurants it created have been on the decline for decades as food writers have stoked a rage for “authentic”—meaning northern Italian—cooking. But authenticity is easily corrupted once it is marketed: one need only think of Olive Garden’s fictional “Tuscan garlic menu.” And yet now, MacAllen says, red sauce is making something of a comeback---the same-but-different, new but old. The restaurants of Arthur Avenue in The Bronx, a handful of stalwarts in Brooklyn and Queens are still thriving, and Patsy’s on W. 56th in Manhattan remains a jewel.--Bill Marsano’s forbears emigrated from Genoa, in northern Italy, early in the last century, bringing their pesto and focaccia recipes with them.

[John Galluzzo · Rating 5 out of 5]

Dive back far enough in history and you'll find surprises.

Being Italian, there are many things I take for granted about the foods my family has traditionally eaten. My great-grandmother, who I was lucky enough to know until she passed away when I was 16, was born in 1895 and reached America in 1900. My grandparents were both first generation Italian-Americans (my dad therefore was an American-Italian, and I'm just plain old American). I still cook meals the way my great-grandmother did.

She brought traditions with her from Messina, on Sicily, and my great-grandparents on the other side brought their recipes from Reggio di Calabria. They included many, many dishes that featured tomatoes crushed up to form sauces. I assumed that that's just how it was, that "Italians" cooked with tomatoes, throughout history. But "Italy," formerly a set of city-states with their own regional preferences, was only in existence for a little more than a quarter century before my great-grandmother arrived in America. Tomatoes only reached the Italian peninsula as part of the Columbian Exchange. Such are some of the reminders and historical lessons of this book.

The author explores the most famous of the red sauce dishes served in America, their Italian (or not) origins and their naming conventions. He dives into the stories of the many successful restaurant chains that crisscross the nation, discussing how they have altered what Americans perceive to be "authentic" Italian food. He shares the secrets of the chefs who claim to have invented various sauces. He deftly explores the right-place-at-the-right-time events that shaped red sauce history (like when Chef Boiardi ("Boyardee") contracted with the U.S. armed forces to can spaghetti for soldiers and sailors to take with them in World War II, cementing his product line's name and reputation for decades. Much like soldiers in the Pacific brought back tiki restaurant customs with them, Americans serving in Italy brought back a desire for Italian food.

He argues that the red sauce era has passed, that the desire for northern Italian food has supplanted the hunger for red sauces. To this notion I would say only this: not in my home. I believe that as along as Italian families, like mine, continue to keep traditions alive, there is a one hundred percent chance that red sauce will rise again. One of the first meals my sons learned to cook was simple spaghetti and meatballs. There is no doubt that they will pass it down to the next generation.

[Abigail Allison · Rating 4 out of 5]

I knew a very kind, smart, salt of the earth type guy who once told me a story of how he went to Italy and left hungry because the food was so different than expected and he found he didn’t like any of it. Turns out that while he thought Italian food was his favorite, so much so that it inspired his trip, his actual favorite wasn’t Italian food at all, but Italian American food. He told me he went chasing authentic spaghetti and meatballs and veal parmigiana, not realizing that those dishes are authentically American. As such, he could’ve found the authenticity he was seeking in his local Italian joint complete with red gingham tablecloths and straw wrapped Chianti, decor of which also doesn’t exist in Italy.

If only this book had been around back then, he could’ve read it and been more prepared. Red Sauce: How Italian Food Became American by Ian MacAllen offers an informative and entertaining Tour of Italy, a playful yet thoughtful, well-researched examination of the culinary and social history of Italian American food and culture. Sometimes nonfiction can be a little dry, but I found that I didn’t want to put this book down. Not only was it interesting, which I expected, but I also felt warm feelings of nostalgia, which I didn’t expect. I’m not Italian or Italian American, but I did grow up in the 90s when sit-down, casual Italian American restaurants were in their heyday, and when me and my middle-class family used to consider them a fancy night out. Many a birthday dinner was spent at the Olive Garden. Nothing compares to those breadsticks, which, I’ve recently learned, aren’t even especially Italian.

In Red Sauce, MacAllen has delivered an impressive, nuanced history of Italian American cuisine, written with tenderness, wit, and joy. I can’t wait to share what I’ve learned with friends over some eggplant parmigiana or lobster fra diavolo, and highly recommend this book for people who are interested in approachable and engaging nonfiction.

[Bren · Rating 4 out of 5]

If you are interested in Italian American food or the history of Italian Americans, as I am, this is a good read. MacAllen does commendable research about not only the Italian American experience but the history of food and culture in Italy as well. He even goes further back in time to Greece or North Africa when applicable. There is a bit of humor in the book, and the way IA food became what it is today is very interesting. Some of it gets redundant, but this is not the fault of the author as he is relaying the history, not making it. The author has a good eye for the blurred lines between authentic Italian food versus IA food and does not apologize for why IA food evolved as it did but instead explains it. People in Italy often frown upon what they perceive as the bastardization of their food (think the IA addition of cream to carbonara). But MacAllen defends IA food and its evolution, as he should.

The one gripe I had was his obsession with New York City. NYC obviously had an outsized role in the IA experience, culture, and history. But like so many New Yorkers, MacAllen is so NY-centric he forgets there is life outside of the city. This is surprising, considering how in-depth his research was. Aside from New Haven-style pizza, the rich IA history in New England is barely mentioned, with only two mentions of Boston and one of Providence (home to the only two legit IA neighborhoods left in the U.S.). Philadelphia was not mentioned, and there were only a few mentions of New Jersey. Aside from Chicago, the rest of the Midwest was largely ignored. Touching on these other areas would have added a lot to the book.

[Bookworm · Rating 3 out of 5]

Borrowed this on a whim, not really knowing what it was about (except that it had to do with Italian food). I always enjoy food and food histories, even though I'm not really a foodie in any sense and don't feel one way or another about Italian food or another (other than what we have in the US is probably considered a horror to Italians in Italy and what not). All the same, I enjoy reading about stories like these and how we get the Olive Gardens and the lie and how food culture and foods change as they migrate from place to place and through time.

The book is basically that. It traces foods and Italian people and how we in the US got these "inventions" that, as previously mentioned, are not "authentic" but were adapted for the times, the ingredients available, the palates of people in the US, etc. Not unlike so many other foods (see Panda Express and similar types of restaurants).

It's definitely worth thinking about. I've known some of these conversations with other foods (like, stuff like Orange Chicken that you can find at a Panda Express doesn't really exist in China or Chinese cuisine, etc.) so this was definitely interesting.

However, I agree on a lot of the points. At times the book was really, really dull. What could have been interesting and tasty was kind of bland overall. That's not to say there isn't a lot to learn and think about, but it just needed a better editor to keep me interested. For people who like these types of works, like Italian food, etc. this would probably be a great read.

Borrowed from the library and that was best for me.

[Books To Bowls · Rating 3 out of 5]

While Red Sauce: How Italian Food Became American offers a fascinating and meticulously researched exploration of Italian-American culinary history, its dry and academic tone makes it less appealing to a broad audience.

MacAllen's work excels in its historical analysis, tracing the evolution of Italian cuisine in America through the lens of immigration patterns, social changes, and economic factors. This scholarly approach, while valuable for those specifically interested in food history or cultural studies, can be dense and detail-oriented for casual readers seeking a light and entertaining read. The book prioritizes historical accuracy and detailed analysis over vivid storytelling or engaging anecdotes, which can make it feel like a textbook rather than a captivating narrative.

Therefore, I would rank Red Sauce as a Tier 4: For Specific Interests (Optional Reading). It's a valuable resource for academics, food historians, or those with a deep interest in the sociological aspects of food. However, for the average home cook or someone simply looking for an enjoyable read about Italian-American food, there are more accessible and engaging options available. If your primary interest is in cooking Italian-American dishes, learning practical techniques, or enjoying personal stories and anecdotes related to food, this book might not be the best fit. It's best suited for those specifically seeking a rigorous historical analysis of the development of Italian-American cuisine.

[Wolfie (wolfgang.reads) · Rating 4 out of 5]

Red Sauce is an incredibly informative and comprehensive account of Italians immigrating to America and the cuisine that has evolved significantly to the point of becoming nearly unrecognizable. It's a blend of cultural history and food history that leans a tad dry at points (totally unavoidable!) but never fails to be fascinating and memorable. MacAllen meticulously breaks down notable elements of Italian cuisine - red sauce, pasta's long history, etc - as well as beloved dishes both old and invented.

It's an intriguing, educational read if you love learning about cultures and food history!

For those that think Olive Garden is close to authentic Italian food, read this, listen to the audiobook, tape it to the inside of your eyelids. You won't think ever about that monstrosity again after reading this.

[Bonnie · Rating 3 out of 5]

This well researched history shows the evolution of "red sauce cuisine" in Italian immigrants to America and how over time, recipes and presentation became standardized (think the spaghetti scene in Lady and the Tramp) and ultimately folded into American food culture.

I was really fascinated by the concept. Ultimately, I took off one star because it was a slog to read through. The syntax and style are more formal than I expected from the cover and sales pitch; the tone imparts greater credence to the text as a historical project, but as a casual reader I would have appreciated a lighter touch.

[Claire Holroyde · Rating 5 out of 5]

Interesting and thoroughly researched exploration of how Italian American cuisine came to be from a socio-historical context. I like how the author had a Malcolm Gladwell moment when he stopped to wonder how familiar dishes had evolved. "The evolution of the Italian ragu in the United States followed the immigrants' pursuit of a more luxurious life. They replicated where they could and improvised when they couldn't, but ultimately the resulting dishes are the product of a once-poor people growing richer and imitating wealth as they perceived it."
Prepare to grow hungry as you flip pages...

[Anthony Zepperi · Rating 4 out of 5]

Ian MacAllen’s Red Sauce is a masterpiece of whose diligent research and engaging writing puts everything in perspective and shows why Italian-American food continues to be a cultural phenomenon here and abroad.

[Matthew Sciarrino · Rating 5 out of 5]

Very informative little book on how Italian food became American food. Great facts and well researched and footnoted. Learn how particular dishes joined the menu both at restaurants and the home table. Fun and enjoyable book.

[Justine · Rating 3 out of 5]

I did like this and I learned lots of neat facts about the marketing campaign that was “authentic Italian food” in the 90s-now, but it was just too long and repetitive. It would have made a great podcast episode.

[Rajesh · Rating 3 out of 5]

A fun romp through Italian-American cuisine history via the obvious lenses: recipes, ingredients, history, celebrities, etymologies, uh... pasta types. You know, the usual. Easy, breezy listen.

Terrible listen while fasting.

[Tori]

Jennifer Coolidge voice- makes me want lasagna real bad

No but this was actually fun and really informative. It never occurred to me to consider the role fascism played in cuisine but it’s a very interesting concept. Also how does one become a “pasta scholar”? Asking for a me.

[Amanda Leal · Rating 4 out of 5]

I enjoyed it!

The author was well intentioned in the way past and present were connected and truly he went waaay back, not just with Italy and America but interactions that took place in other countries as well. I thought his acknowledgment of the less than savory topics was done well.

[Mark Rimelspach · Rating 4 out of 5]

Enjoyable book on the history of Italian foods and how they made their way to the United States.

[Lisa · Rating 3 out of 5]

Repetitive. Goes back so far (12th century)!
Too encyclopedic n too much ancient history for me. Just eh

[Fritzov · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good book about the history of American Italian and Italian cuisine.

[David Meyer · Rating 3 out of 5]

The author does give what is advertised, but I couldn't find it within me to find most of it interesting.

[Nari]

This book is densely packed with info, I think it would be better consumed in book form rather that audio. Super interesting though