"I once ate more than eighty king cakes in a single Carnival," author Matt Haines proudly remembers, demonstrating his dedication to this delicious Mardi Gras tradition. "So you can imagine how amazed I was to learn there has never been a coffee table book dedicated to king cakes!" The Big Book of King Cake changes that, telling the thousands-year-old story through lush photography of more than one hundred and fifty unique king cakes, as well as stories from the diverse and talented bakers who make them. While king cakes are typically only available during Carnival season, readers can enjoy this book year-round. From the traditional cakes generations of New Orleanians have loved, to the unconventional creations that break all the rules, this book is your guide to the Crescent City's favorite baked good. The Big Book of King Cake is for anyone who loves food, history, sweets, culture, and of course, New Orleans.
Matt Haines’s interest in king cake was sparked in 2017 while eating more than eighty varieties during a single Carnival season. That same year, he hiked the Appalachian Trail using the trail name “King Cake.” Based in New Orleans, Matt writes professionally about food, travel, current events, and inspirational people. He’s written for Voice of America, CNN Underscored, Zagat, Fodor’s Travel, The Times-Picayune/The New Orleans Advocate, Gambit Weekly, Very Local New Orleans, and others.
Although I'm uncertain about how popular this book will be outside of southern Louisiana, THE BIG BOOK OF KING CAKE is a must have for people who love food, Mardi Gras, and carnival culture in general. It includes 75 local makers of King Cake (many of whom, in turn, produce multiple varieties): bakeries, local groceries, restaurants and cafes, bars and coffee shops, as well as "popup" venders and bakers who produce and sell king cakes from their own homes (like Gillian of 10 Cent Baking, whose fantastic pistachio cardamom galette des roi was well worth the trouble of tracking her down - Hint: Instagram). Each one contains loving full color photographs of their king cakes, and often of the production process, as well as biographical/historical information and interviews. In addition, there are numerous sidebars and chapter introductions discussing all aspects of the king cake, from the days of yore to Covid-era New Orleans. A good amount of space is devoted to many peoples’ ideas of just what constitutes a king cake (a contentious issue in New Orleans) - from uber old school MacKenzie's fans, to pushing-the-envelope creations like king cake sushi, Que Pasta NOLA's pulpo (octopus) king cake, king cake ice cream and dog treats, and even cricket king cake from the Audubon Nature Institute. There is also a section devoted to the traditional king cakes of other countries - Roman Saturnalia Cake, French Gateau des Rois and Galette des Rois, Spanish and Mexican rosca de reyes, Portuguese bolo-rei, English Twelfth Night Cake, Swiss and German Dreikonigskuchen, Bulgarian Banitsa, and Greek vasilopita. After reading this, I’m kind of shocked that Haines is the first person to think of this book – or, at least, was able to convince a publisher that it was a good idea. It is the book that we didn’t know we needed, but in retrospect it seems obvious. Pricy but worth it as this lavish volume as not produced on the cheap. My only quibble (and it’s a minor one) is that the author has a tendency to go little overboard about the "Saturnalia connection.” But, as I said, it’s a minor gripe. 4.5 stars.
This is the first coffee table book that I have read cover to cover. The photography is gorgeous, the snippets of history are interesting, and the profiles of individual bakers is the greatest treat. I found the “Rebirth” chapter particularly well done. It tells the story, among many others, of a woman that climbed out of a life saddled by addiction and went from being homeless and living in a tent under the interstate to being an award winning baker. This book is a series of fascinating human interest stories disguised as a book about king cake. Oh yeah, that part is fantastic too.