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Familia Cartier
Nestiuta poveste din spatele Imperiului de bijuterii Cand se pronunta numele Cartier, gandurile zboara, fireste, la bijuterii, ceasuri si alte obiecte de lux. Dar putini sunt cei care vorbesc despre oamenii din spatele acestor creatii, despre viata lor, greutatile prin care au trecut, despre iubirile si prieteniile lor. Si nici despre imaginatia sau eforturile lor. Familia Cartier deschide aceasta fereastra spre o lume magica si umana, in acelasi timp, iar povestea este spusa chiar de un membru al familiei - Francesca Cartier Brickell. Autoarea picteaza cu dragoste si grija un portret al fiecaruia dintre cei care au avut un rol imens in fondarea, dezvoltarea si evolutia unei Case, unde toti – angajati si patroni – se simteau ca intr-o mare familie. Practic, aceasta carte este o noua bijuterie Cartier! "O istorie fascinanta scrisa de o descendenta a lui Louis François Cartier... Scrisa cu diplomatie, maiestrie, originalitate si multa dragoste pentru munca tuturor, povestea celor trei frati Cartier si a descendentilor lor este la fel de frematatoare ca si bijuteriile create de acestia." - Read It Forward Despre Absolventa a Universitatii Oxford, literatura engleza, FRANCESCA CARTIER BRICKELL este descendenta directa a familiei Cartier. Stra-stra-strabunicul ei a fondat firma Cartier in anul 1847. Iar bunicul ei, Jean-Jacques Cartier, a fost ultimul din familie care a detinut si a condus o filiala a acestei companii de bijuterii de renume mondial. A parasit o cariera in domeniul finantelor, pentru ca sa se concentreze asupra cercetarii istoriei familiei sale. A petrecut peste un deceniu in cautarea povestii adevarate din spatele Casei Cartier. In prezent, sustine prelegeri internationale despre ilustra istorie a familiei.
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First published November 26, 2019
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 322 reviews
March 8, 2020
The Cartiers - Book Review.
I STUDIED this book vs reading it. Page by page, 600 pages. For me, it was a PhD in Business, Creativity & Philosophy.
What I learned:
- The AMAZING ability of the Cartier family to find inspiration from what they saw around them. Paris Balcony designs became Cartier's "Garland" style jewels. When Tanks rolled into Paris during WW1, that became the "Tank" watch. Visits to India were the inspiration for "tutti frutti" jewellery (Indian gems had lots of colour) & the lions & panthers gave way to the animal jewellery so famously Cartier.
- The HARD HARD HARD work that went into building Cartier. From scratch to becoming a global brand, it took long sea voyages, visits to dangerous countries, appeasing temperamental clients & surviving 2 world wars to become an institution.
- The amazing rule "Never Copy. Only Create".
- The fact that Cartier brothers would GO to clients to do sales vs clients coming to them. This was a shocker to me but a humble reminder of how sales works!
- The shock of the Cartier business being sold by its inheritors to different buyers
- Lots of amazing quotes.
I STUDIED this book vs reading it. Page by page, 600 pages. For me, it was a PhD in Business, Creativity & Philosophy.
What I learned:
- The AMAZING ability of the Cartier family to find inspiration from what they saw around them. Paris Balcony designs became Cartier's "Garland" style jewels. When Tanks rolled into Paris during WW1, that became the "Tank" watch. Visits to India were the inspiration for "tutti frutti" jewellery (Indian gems had lots of colour) & the lions & panthers gave way to the animal jewellery so famously Cartier.
- The HARD HARD HARD work that went into building Cartier. From scratch to becoming a global brand, it took long sea voyages, visits to dangerous countries, appeasing temperamental clients & surviving 2 world wars to become an institution.
- The amazing rule "Never Copy. Only Create".
- The fact that Cartier brothers would GO to clients to do sales vs clients coming to them. This was a shocker to me but a humble reminder of how sales works!
- The shock of the Cartier business being sold by its inheritors to different buyers
- Lots of amazing quotes.
January 17, 2020
This book is almost a brilliant as the jewels described within it. Cartier is a name that one takes for granted as the premier jewelers in the world. It stands for beauty, quality, and unique design and was the favorite of all those who could afford to pass through their doors......from royalty to robber barons, Although the days of the ostentatious display of jewelry has passed. the name Cartier remains.
Written by a member of the family and based on her conversations with and the diaries of her grandfather, the author has done remarkable research into every aspect of the Cartier business and why it became the favorite of the rich and famous. It remained a family owned business for over 120 years and its reputation was built and maintained by her three great-uncles, each of whom ran one of the business locations (Paris, NYC, and London). Their expertise in design, innovation, and customer service was of the highest quality and the employees were treated as family. Loyalty to the business and very strict expectations helped the company through rough times such as revolutions and economic depressions. Eventually society changed but Cartier could not and the family reluctantly sold the business.
An added attraction to this book are numerous photographs of the main players, famous customers and above all, the beautiful creations that will live on. I was enchanted and would recommend this book.
Written by a member of the family and based on her conversations with and the diaries of her grandfather, the author has done remarkable research into every aspect of the Cartier business and why it became the favorite of the rich and famous. It remained a family owned business for over 120 years and its reputation was built and maintained by her three great-uncles, each of whom ran one of the business locations (Paris, NYC, and London). Their expertise in design, innovation, and customer service was of the highest quality and the employees were treated as family. Loyalty to the business and very strict expectations helped the company through rough times such as revolutions and economic depressions. Eventually society changed but Cartier could not and the family reluctantly sold the business.
An added attraction to this book are numerous photographs of the main players, famous customers and above all, the beautiful creations that will live on. I was enchanted and would recommend this book.
August 28, 2019
This a comprehensive and new look into the history of a now famous 'name'.
While the author has a personal connection to the material, being a grandchild of one of the original Cartiers, the material comes across as unbiased and quite intriguing.
Definitely worth a read even for those who are uninterested in jewelry, as the story passes through the history of France, England, America, and others, giving an interesting view into the times through the lens of art and fashion.
While the author has a personal connection to the material, being a grandchild of one of the original Cartiers, the material comes across as unbiased and quite intriguing.
Definitely worth a read even for those who are uninterested in jewelry, as the story passes through the history of France, England, America, and others, giving an interesting view into the times through the lens of art and fashion.
September 16, 2022
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"The Cartiers" is Francesca Brickell's biography of the family behind the iconic Cartier jewelry brand. Brickell is the great-great-great-granddaughter of Louis-Francois Cartier who founded the firm in 1847 and the granddaughter of Jean-Jacques Cartier who sold the last piece of the family business in 1974.
Long-fascinated by her family's history, Brickell serendipitously stumbled across a trunk filled with her grandfather's letters, telegrams and photographs while searching for a bottle of champagne in his cellar. Long thought to have been lost, this collection of historical jewels catalyzed a decade of research by Brickell and resulted in the most thorough biography of her lineage currently available.
Appreciating this biography requires no particular fascination with jewelry, high society or European history. All that is necessary is an interest in dexterous entrepreneurship, a fondness for internecine drama and the ability to be swept away by a lively and often enchanting narrative.
Brickell begins by reviewing the life of the firm's founder - Louis-Francois Cartier (1819-1904) - and describing the circumstances of his nascent enterprise's birth. As the narrative unfolds, subsequent generations of the family are unveiled and their personal stories are expertly intertwined with the story of the empire's evolution.
The founder is followed by his son, Alfred, who later passes the baton to his three sons during a period of expansion: Louis-Joseph (Paris), Pierre (New York) and Jacques (London). Management and ownership of the business becomes a more complicated during the next (and last) phase of the family's ownership.
Brickell is adept at injecting just enough social, cultural and historical context to explain both the opportunities and the challenges faced by the family and their burgeoning business. Readers enthralled by interpersonal drama will be entranced by her description of the family members' strengths, personality quirks and predilections.
With a background in finance, Brickell is also able to analyze and articulate the firm's evolving business strategy and reaction to new opportunities and threats. In fact, the biography is probably at its best when describing how Cartier evolved during times of great stress - shortly after its launch, during generational transitions, expanding geographically, and during times of war, recession and depression.
But readers expecting to consume weighty, hard-hitting business history such as is offered by Ron Chernow's biography of John D. Rockefeller, Sr. or Steven Watts's biography of Henry Ford may be disappointed. Because while this book proves instructive as well as entertaining, at times it feels a bit like the reality series "Shark Tank" in soap opera form.
In addition, readers who become gleefully lost in the intricacies of the jewelry trade or are consumed by Cartier family drama may become confused by the large number of non-family members who are critical to both the Cartier empire and the ongoing narrative. As these supporting characters' lives become more complicated and consequential, they tend to blur together.
Overall, however, Francesca Brickell's book is a lively, intimate, insightful and often endearing biography of four generations of the Cartier family and the jewelry business which bears their name. Well-researched, evidently objective and keenly attentive to the personal and financial aspects of the family business, Brickell has penned a biography which almost anyone is likely to enjoy.
Overall rating: 4¼ stars
"The Cartiers" is Francesca Brickell's biography of the family behind the iconic Cartier jewelry brand. Brickell is the great-great-great-granddaughter of Louis-Francois Cartier who founded the firm in 1847 and the granddaughter of Jean-Jacques Cartier who sold the last piece of the family business in 1974.
Long-fascinated by her family's history, Brickell serendipitously stumbled across a trunk filled with her grandfather's letters, telegrams and photographs while searching for a bottle of champagne in his cellar. Long thought to have been lost, this collection of historical jewels catalyzed a decade of research by Brickell and resulted in the most thorough biography of her lineage currently available.
Appreciating this biography requires no particular fascination with jewelry, high society or European history. All that is necessary is an interest in dexterous entrepreneurship, a fondness for internecine drama and the ability to be swept away by a lively and often enchanting narrative.
Brickell begins by reviewing the life of the firm's founder - Louis-Francois Cartier (1819-1904) - and describing the circumstances of his nascent enterprise's birth. As the narrative unfolds, subsequent generations of the family are unveiled and their personal stories are expertly intertwined with the story of the empire's evolution.
The founder is followed by his son, Alfred, who later passes the baton to his three sons during a period of expansion: Louis-Joseph (Paris), Pierre (New York) and Jacques (London). Management and ownership of the business becomes a more complicated during the next (and last) phase of the family's ownership.
Brickell is adept at injecting just enough social, cultural and historical context to explain both the opportunities and the challenges faced by the family and their burgeoning business. Readers enthralled by interpersonal drama will be entranced by her description of the family members' strengths, personality quirks and predilections.
With a background in finance, Brickell is also able to analyze and articulate the firm's evolving business strategy and reaction to new opportunities and threats. In fact, the biography is probably at its best when describing how Cartier evolved during times of great stress - shortly after its launch, during generational transitions, expanding geographically, and during times of war, recession and depression.
But readers expecting to consume weighty, hard-hitting business history such as is offered by Ron Chernow's biography of John D. Rockefeller, Sr. or Steven Watts's biography of Henry Ford may be disappointed. Because while this book proves instructive as well as entertaining, at times it feels a bit like the reality series "Shark Tank" in soap opera form.
In addition, readers who become gleefully lost in the intricacies of the jewelry trade or are consumed by Cartier family drama may become confused by the large number of non-family members who are critical to both the Cartier empire and the ongoing narrative. As these supporting characters' lives become more complicated and consequential, they tend to blur together.
Overall, however, Francesca Brickell's book is a lively, intimate, insightful and often endearing biography of four generations of the Cartier family and the jewelry business which bears their name. Well-researched, evidently objective and keenly attentive to the personal and financial aspects of the family business, Brickell has penned a biography which almost anyone is likely to enjoy.
Overall rating: 4¼ stars
October 22, 2024
This book took MONTHS to chew through. But it was worth it to lift the lid off the story of the Cartier family and business, as told by the granddaughter of Jean-Jacques Cartier (the last family owner of the London branch).
This is a profoundly fascinating glimpse into history. The author has dug deep into family archives and history, bringing together a coherent narrative across almost two centuries of business, weathering regime changes and war and economic swings and roundabouts and UHNW customers.
This is a reflection on power and privilege that comes from the perspective of privilege.
So don’t expect a democratic take on the morality of how the ultra-wealthy choose to spend their spoils or relate to the peasant class. Or how ironic the “never copy only create” tagline is (given the continuous creative homage to exotic far flung lands like India and the Middle East, and the expropriation of resources from many of these same places).
And don’t get them wrong, the Cartiers, no matter how much they tried, were pretty much peasants to many of their customers. Merchants enough to be allowed in the house but never “one of us”. Louis marries into the aristocracy and is STOKED to finally be invited to a part at the Baron de Rothschild’s pad, but is humiliated and turned away, “treated no better than the domestic help”.
If you’re looking to understand the business of luxury and how it evolved over time, this is fascinating.
For instance in the early 1900’s as the EU and US struggled economically, they tapped into Russian royal coffers. As fortunes waxed and waned they tried different strategies to keep up with the times - new designs, new clientele, new product lines, new locations, new sales strategies.
Stories of doing business in Russia and India are hilarious - I believe it’s Pierre, for instance, who goes to drum up business with the Maharajah, is left waiting for hours after their appointed meeting time and is then totally swindled on the deal, and left wondering when he’ll get a “borrowed” priceless pearl back.
Clienteling has not changed materially, with exceptional salesmen going to the best clubs, parties and ocean liners to find and impress new customers.
The history behind how empires have been built by a coterie of wealth is eye-opening:
De Rothschild A marrying into Bank B, J P Morgan’s inception, the Werths and the Cartiers and the fur people, competition with de Beers and Tiffany, Dodge making his MILLIONS through a $10K equity payment from a little known and struggling car maker Henry Ford, (but don’t worry Edsel Ford paid millions in Cartier jewellery in just one ocean crossing), Marjorie Post and Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor and Edward Béarnaise (do yourself a favour and watch the BBC documentary the Century of the Self”).
Holidaying in San Sebastien and wintering in St Moritz, and exclusive degrees at HEC, and raising a glass to the banality of the Status Game.
This is a profoundly fascinating glimpse into history. The author has dug deep into family archives and history, bringing together a coherent narrative across almost two centuries of business, weathering regime changes and war and economic swings and roundabouts and UHNW customers.
This is a reflection on power and privilege that comes from the perspective of privilege.
So don’t expect a democratic take on the morality of how the ultra-wealthy choose to spend their spoils or relate to the peasant class. Or how ironic the “never copy only create” tagline is (given the continuous creative homage to exotic far flung lands like India and the Middle East, and the expropriation of resources from many of these same places).
And don’t get them wrong, the Cartiers, no matter how much they tried, were pretty much peasants to many of their customers. Merchants enough to be allowed in the house but never “one of us”. Louis marries into the aristocracy and is STOKED to finally be invited to a part at the Baron de Rothschild’s pad, but is humiliated and turned away, “treated no better than the domestic help”.
If you’re looking to understand the business of luxury and how it evolved over time, this is fascinating.
For instance in the early 1900’s as the EU and US struggled economically, they tapped into Russian royal coffers. As fortunes waxed and waned they tried different strategies to keep up with the times - new designs, new clientele, new product lines, new locations, new sales strategies.
Stories of doing business in Russia and India are hilarious - I believe it’s Pierre, for instance, who goes to drum up business with the Maharajah, is left waiting for hours after their appointed meeting time and is then totally swindled on the deal, and left wondering when he’ll get a “borrowed” priceless pearl back.
Clienteling has not changed materially, with exceptional salesmen going to the best clubs, parties and ocean liners to find and impress new customers.
The history behind how empires have been built by a coterie of wealth is eye-opening:
De Rothschild A marrying into Bank B, J P Morgan’s inception, the Werths and the Cartiers and the fur people, competition with de Beers and Tiffany, Dodge making his MILLIONS through a $10K equity payment from a little known and struggling car maker Henry Ford, (but don’t worry Edsel Ford paid millions in Cartier jewellery in just one ocean crossing), Marjorie Post and Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor and Edward Béarnaise (do yourself a favour and watch the BBC documentary the Century of the Self”).
Holidaying in San Sebastien and wintering in St Moritz, and exclusive degrees at HEC, and raising a glass to the banality of the Status Game.
March 11, 2020
An oddly compelling story of the Cartiers and their rise as a family owned business through the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. I mostly enjoyed the sections about evolving sales strategies and design. However, this is completely and bizarrely out of touch with reality. Any time I thought she might discuss class or where this wealth came from she completely ignores it. Its a laudatory family tale and wealth fantasy, not a history.
March 1, 2022
Over a hundred years of history is covered in detail, through the business ventures of the famous jewelry family Cartier. The detail is mind-boggling; Jacque Cartier’s granddaughter has penned an intimate and admiring inside story of this accomplished family, as intricate as some of the elaborate jewelry the brothers created over their time in business.
At 600 pages of stories of jewels, high society, countless business manoeuvres and a very complicated family and friend network, the end result of reading about the Cartiers was almost mind-blowing. This book is not for the faint of heart - but it is immensely satisfying, taking the reader from the end of La Belle Epoque/Gilded Age and on travels to exotic locations in search of precious gems, well-heeled clients, Russian royalty and Indian maharajas through to Swinging London and the changes in taste and economies of the 1960’s and 1970’s. British royalty own Cartier bespoke works, while the famously wealthy and simply famous (think: Elizabeth Taylor) of days gone by draped themselves in Cartier creations.
The colour plates included offer an interesting touch… the photography isn’t the clearest of the jewellery, but the family photos and those of their celebrity clients offer additional insight into their lives.
Francesca Cartier Brickell obviously intended to honour everyone she could in the writing of this biography- all of those employed by Cartier in so many capacities, those who showed so much loyalty to the family and with great diplomacy, the wide spread family itself - and their craft. The sheer volume of information is incredible - there is some repetition- but the bulk of this book is so fascinating that I skimmed by, eagerly moving onto the next adventure, business venture or artistic pursuit.
Simply excellent. 4.5 stars rounded up.
At 600 pages of stories of jewels, high society, countless business manoeuvres and a very complicated family and friend network, the end result of reading about the Cartiers was almost mind-blowing. This book is not for the faint of heart - but it is immensely satisfying, taking the reader from the end of La Belle Epoque/Gilded Age and on travels to exotic locations in search of precious gems, well-heeled clients, Russian royalty and Indian maharajas through to Swinging London and the changes in taste and economies of the 1960’s and 1970’s. British royalty own Cartier bespoke works, while the famously wealthy and simply famous (think: Elizabeth Taylor) of days gone by draped themselves in Cartier creations.
The colour plates included offer an interesting touch… the photography isn’t the clearest of the jewellery, but the family photos and those of their celebrity clients offer additional insight into their lives.
Francesca Cartier Brickell obviously intended to honour everyone she could in the writing of this biography- all of those employed by Cartier in so many capacities, those who showed so much loyalty to the family and with great diplomacy, the wide spread family itself - and their craft. The sheer volume of information is incredible - there is some repetition- but the bulk of this book is so fascinating that I skimmed by, eagerly moving onto the next adventure, business venture or artistic pursuit.
Simply excellent. 4.5 stars rounded up.
Want to read
August 27, 2019A very good (long) read from a very source (great great great granddaughter). Some fascinating sections and details, plus I learned some things about diamonds along the way. I enjoy history and biographies and this hit all the right notes. Recommended for history fans.
I really appreciate the advanced copy for review!!
I really appreciate the advanced copy for review!!
October 8, 2021
Summary: OMG. So clearly written by a family member who knows the ins and outs of the family. I loved this book. Wow.
So many take aways. Read this on my way to Paris/Spain. Such an amazing family. I loved the dynamic between the sons. The reasons and desires for having NYC vs Paris. The whole way they handled a family member who they suspected stealing. I loved how they thought about marriage.
And Louis. OMG. I can't even imagine the untold stories that would have been entirely inappropriate. Such a character!
A great book for fashionista, gem lover and biz person alike. I love their take on pearls. I loved the way the biz changed over the years. Wow. Wow. Wow.
p. 60. I had no idea that the first wristwatch for men was by Cartier. Wow. The whole story of the tank watch. love love love.
p. 86 - The richest clients took the longest to pay.
p. 130. The Hope diamond stuff. Wow. And all the thought process of where to go, for instance India and it's importance. The Indian Royalty that wasn't the richest but specialized in Emeralds. WOW!! They would get rid of the crappy part of scrap jewels in India and hence created a presence there.
So many take aways. Read this on my way to Paris/Spain. Such an amazing family. I loved the dynamic between the sons. The reasons and desires for having NYC vs Paris. The whole way they handled a family member who they suspected stealing. I loved how they thought about marriage.
And Louis. OMG. I can't even imagine the untold stories that would have been entirely inappropriate. Such a character!
A great book for fashionista, gem lover and biz person alike. I love their take on pearls. I loved the way the biz changed over the years. Wow. Wow. Wow.
p. 60. I had no idea that the first wristwatch for men was by Cartier. Wow. The whole story of the tank watch. love love love.
p. 86 - The richest clients took the longest to pay.
p. 130. The Hope diamond stuff. Wow. And all the thought process of where to go, for instance India and it's importance. The Indian Royalty that wasn't the richest but specialized in Emeralds. WOW!! They would get rid of the crappy part of scrap jewels in India and hence created a presence there.
February 8, 2020
4.5 stars (liked a lot)
Thoroughly researched and thoughtfully written, this book exquisitely details the history of the Cartier family and their jewelry empire. My one minor critique is that I wished the author had painted more of a visual picture of (at least) each of the three Cartier brothers so I had an image of them in my mind as I was reading. Nonetheless, I thought this book was a gem and would recommend it to anyone interested in jewelry or French history. I listened to the Audible version which was excellently narrated in a calm and precise voice.
Thoroughly researched and thoughtfully written, this book exquisitely details the history of the Cartier family and their jewelry empire. My one minor critique is that I wished the author had painted more of a visual picture of (at least) each of the three Cartier brothers so I had an image of them in my mind as I was reading. Nonetheless, I thought this book was a gem and would recommend it to anyone interested in jewelry or French history. I listened to the Audible version which was excellently narrated in a calm and precise voice.
October 16, 2019
A fascinating story about an iconic family.
I will never look at Cartier jewelry the same again.
I will never look at Cartier jewelry the same again.
December 4, 2019
I knew nothing of the Cartiers before starting this book. If you asked me what Cartier was about, I may not even have been able to tell you jewelry. I might have said perfume, or handbags. I'm no big subscriber of luxury items or labels. I have neither the money nor the aspiration.
The thing about this book is, it's not exactly about the jewelry business. I suspect that this book would be really effective to a reader who had lots of knowledge about Cartier already, as this is a sort of never-before-told side of the Cartier history: that sourcing a long-lost steamer trunk packed with Cartier family correspondence.
Sadly for me, the text assumes some familiarity with jewelry (I had my smartphone handy to reference terms like "lozenge cut") and leaves out some of the more sumptuous descriptions that I think may have added to the richness of this text. Also, I just had to Google some of the visuals: the Tutti Frutti collection, for instance. They were almost entirely absent from the book (at least from the advance reader copy I was kindly provided by the publisher).
The best part was the main part: the history. Cartier was founded in 1847 and was closely and lovingly managed by immediate family until 1962, through multiple world wars, revolutions, shifts in global power and wealth, and not to forget, the rise and fall of various trends in luxury spending and fashion. In a way, this book was a brief on world history during those times, seen through the facets of luxury jewels.
This book was quite long, and I wonder how hard it must have been to edit, seeing as each cut made to details of personal relationships was a removal from the manuscript of an actual letter or thread found in the aforementioned steamer trunk. The result in any case was almost 700 pages long. It was a really long book! It took me ages to finish, mostly because, as I said, it reads more like a history book than anything. Nothing really compelled me to keep turning the pages, even though they were agreeable to read.
The thing about this book is, it's not exactly about the jewelry business. I suspect that this book would be really effective to a reader who had lots of knowledge about Cartier already, as this is a sort of never-before-told side of the Cartier history: that sourcing a long-lost steamer trunk packed with Cartier family correspondence.
Sadly for me, the text assumes some familiarity with jewelry (I had my smartphone handy to reference terms like "lozenge cut") and leaves out some of the more sumptuous descriptions that I think may have added to the richness of this text. Also, I just had to Google some of the visuals: the Tutti Frutti collection, for instance. They were almost entirely absent from the book (at least from the advance reader copy I was kindly provided by the publisher).
The best part was the main part: the history. Cartier was founded in 1847 and was closely and lovingly managed by immediate family until 1962, through multiple world wars, revolutions, shifts in global power and wealth, and not to forget, the rise and fall of various trends in luxury spending and fashion. In a way, this book was a brief on world history during those times, seen through the facets of luxury jewels.
This book was quite long, and I wonder how hard it must have been to edit, seeing as each cut made to details of personal relationships was a removal from the manuscript of an actual letter or thread found in the aforementioned steamer trunk. The result in any case was almost 700 pages long. It was a really long book! It took me ages to finish, mostly because, as I said, it reads more like a history book than anything. Nothing really compelled me to keep turning the pages, even though they were agreeable to read.
March 7, 2020
Well, that was a lot of book about The Cartier jewelry company. Props to the author for doing such such an enormous amount of research, including detailed footnotes and an extensive bibliography. This book will definitely be used in upcoming years as a resource for other writers and researchers.
I'm not a big jewelry buff (not that I'd turn down a diamond tiara or necklace!) but I still enjoyed reading this book. Oh it did drag at times but for the most part was an easy read. The subjects covered ticked a lot of my boxes in terms of general interest. Belle Epoque period! Courtesans! English/French/Russian royalty! Fashion! The American Gilded Age! Family drama! Movie stars! Cafe society! Jet setters! WWI! WW2! Real estate! I had at least a passing knowledge of most of the major clients mentioned so that contributed to my enjoyment, I think it would be confusing and dull if you never had an idea who the author was referencing.
I would have liked to have learned more about the actual work involved in creating the jewelry. Not just the design, but the actual craftmanship. Brickell does discuss it some, but never in any detail. It really is like couture in that the work is all done meticulously by hand, by people who devote their lives to learning a specific technique. At one point, she mentions in passing that the men(for they were almost always men) would have leather aprons covering their laps while they worked, so that any minute shavings of precious metals would be caught on the apron. Then, at a certain point, the aprons would be sent off to - someone? - who somehow extracts the metals from the apron so they can be reused. I wanted to learn more things like that. Also, why were pearl stringers always women? Maybe I missed that explanation?
This is not a book most people would like, I think, but I'm glad I read it because I learned a lot and that's always a plus.
#popsugar reading challenge 2020/A book with only words on the cover, no images
I'm not a big jewelry buff (not that I'd turn down a diamond tiara or necklace!) but I still enjoyed reading this book. Oh it did drag at times but for the most part was an easy read. The subjects covered ticked a lot of my boxes in terms of general interest. Belle Epoque period! Courtesans! English/French/Russian royalty! Fashion! The American Gilded Age! Family drama! Movie stars! Cafe society! Jet setters! WWI! WW2! Real estate! I had at least a passing knowledge of most of the major clients mentioned so that contributed to my enjoyment, I think it would be confusing and dull if you never had an idea who the author was referencing.
I would have liked to have learned more about the actual work involved in creating the jewelry. Not just the design, but the actual craftmanship. Brickell does discuss it some, but never in any detail. It really is like couture in that the work is all done meticulously by hand, by people who devote their lives to learning a specific technique. At one point, she mentions in passing that the men(for they were almost always men) would have leather aprons covering their laps while they worked, so that any minute shavings of precious metals would be caught on the apron. Then, at a certain point, the aprons would be sent off to - someone? - who somehow extracts the metals from the apron so they can be reused. I wanted to learn more things like that. Also, why were pearl stringers always women? Maybe I missed that explanation?
This is not a book most people would like, I think, but I'm glad I read it because I learned a lot and that's always a plus.
#popsugar reading challenge 2020/A book with only words on the cover, no images
November 25, 2019
The Cartier name conjures up all things elegant, luxurious, and unmatched quality. At the height of its glory, Cartier ruled supreme - a testament to its founder Louis Francois Cartier, his son Alfred, and Alfred’s three sons who carried on their grandfather and father’s passion for creativity, innovation, superb quality, and impeccable customer service catapulted their family name into a global one much sought after by the rich and famous across several generations. Following the establishment of the Cartier business in 1847, it flourished guided by Alfred and then his tight-knit family consisting of Louis’ three sons - Louis, Pierre, and Jacques with flagship stores in Paris, London and New York City. The story of the Cartiers is tracked against the backdrop of history - the 1848 European revolutions, travels to India, Sri Lanka (Ceylon), and the Far East seeking rare stones and conducting business with royalty, to Russia and their Romanov clients, through the two world wars, the Great Depression, British politics and coronations, and the rise of new money in the U.S. I enjoyed learning how the Cartiers were agile and flexible, leveraged challenges into opportunities, and kept pace with the changing times continuing to innovate and holding fast to “Never copy, only create” motto. This is a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the older generation Cartiers and their families, told through the eyes of the founder’s great, great, great granddaughter. This is an absorbing and meticulously researched book, amazingly well written, and flows well. Overall a really good read but be prepared to have the Cartiers as companions for a while as the book is a bit of a tome at more than 600 pages. Thanks to NetGalley and the publisher for the opportunity to read and review this book.
March 5, 2020
From start to finish, this is hands down one of THE best books I have read. Francesca's writing is so incredibly touching and full of love for her family that every line comes across in such a personal yet objective way that you are truly transported into the world of the Cartier family.
I love how the author is able to construct such a rich history of her family starting from day one. You would think with all the information and history she packs this book with that one would get lost or lose interest in the journey. This could not be farther from the truth.
The author does an amazing job of breaking down the Cartier history by the people that created the empire. Each brother gets their own chapter illuminating their personality and contributions to the family business. When you read on to the next brother, the author beautifully and effortlessly slips in little recaps of what the previous brothers were doing while you are reading the chapters in order to keep this incredible family history straight in the readers mind.
This book gave me so many feelings. I felt so deeply for the words written in this book that I shed tears over some of the more developing plots of the family.
I have never been someone interested in the glitz and glam of jewelry but this book makes me want to visit a Cartier store and take in all the history that I read about. I am seriously considering saving up for a small Cartier piece.
Just like the timeless jewelry that they create, the Cartier's hold a very true and genuine place in history.
I love how the author is able to construct such a rich history of her family starting from day one. You would think with all the information and history she packs this book with that one would get lost or lose interest in the journey. This could not be farther from the truth.
The author does an amazing job of breaking down the Cartier history by the people that created the empire. Each brother gets their own chapter illuminating their personality and contributions to the family business. When you read on to the next brother, the author beautifully and effortlessly slips in little recaps of what the previous brothers were doing while you are reading the chapters in order to keep this incredible family history straight in the readers mind.
This book gave me so many feelings. I felt so deeply for the words written in this book that I shed tears over some of the more developing plots of the family.
I have never been someone interested in the glitz and glam of jewelry but this book makes me want to visit a Cartier store and take in all the history that I read about. I am seriously considering saving up for a small Cartier piece.
Just like the timeless jewelry that they create, the Cartier's hold a very true and genuine place in history.
June 21, 2022
Un volum extrem de interesant și bine documentat din interior despre cele patru generații ale familiei Cartier care au scris pagini importante în istoria bijuteriilor de lux. O recomand cu mare plăcere celor pasionați de lumea sclipitoare a diamantelor, dar vă asigur că veți afla multe despre oameni-personaje care, într-un fel sau altul, și-au marcat numele în eternitate între 1847 și 1974, perioada cuprinsă în paginile cărții.
September 9, 2023
Audible credit 23 hours 14 min. Narrated by Hattie Morahan (A)
This book was an impulse buy while shopping late at night on Audible's two-for-one credit sale. I had found one book that had been on my Wish List for a long time, but I hadn't found another book I was really interested in. I was drawn to the book for three reasons; the red cover, the book blurb, and my mother's love for fine jewelry. The story went into more detail than I thought was necessary, but if one is only going to write one book about your family-owned business as a legacy for your children, details are important. This was well-written, and often, it felt that the narrator was whispering a family secret like "Never copy, only create."
Cartier was founded in 1847 in Paris, and later expanded to London, and finally to New York City, and during these expansions, each office was directed by one of three brothers who were grandsons of the founder. "Be very kind" was their guiding principle, whether it be to their clientele or to the many craftsmanship they employed. The business survived two world wars, the Great Depression, and multiple other economic downturns, and each time came back because the brothers knew they were in business not just for themselves but for their loyal employees. "The best is good enough." expressed the rigorously high standards expected within the family business.
I especially enjoyed learning of Peter Wilding, historian, author, and friend of Ian Fleming, and his inspiration and underwriting in 1965 for Cartier's creation of 17 gold and enameled boxes decorated by fine and semi-precious gems. These were not made to be sold but were left by Wilding to the British Museum to represent the modern skilled crafts of goldsmiths, enameling, and jewelers in the 20th century that equalled the skills of those employed by Faberge in the 1800's. I Googled these, and they are indeed works of art.
This book was an impulse buy while shopping late at night on Audible's two-for-one credit sale. I had found one book that had been on my Wish List for a long time, but I hadn't found another book I was really interested in. I was drawn to the book for three reasons; the red cover, the book blurb, and my mother's love for fine jewelry. The story went into more detail than I thought was necessary, but if one is only going to write one book about your family-owned business as a legacy for your children, details are important. This was well-written, and often, it felt that the narrator was whispering a family secret like "Never copy, only create."
Cartier was founded in 1847 in Paris, and later expanded to London, and finally to New York City, and during these expansions, each office was directed by one of three brothers who were grandsons of the founder. "Be very kind" was their guiding principle, whether it be to their clientele or to the many craftsmanship they employed. The business survived two world wars, the Great Depression, and multiple other economic downturns, and each time came back because the brothers knew they were in business not just for themselves but for their loyal employees. "The best is good enough." expressed the rigorously high standards expected within the family business.
I especially enjoyed learning of Peter Wilding, historian, author, and friend of Ian Fleming, and his inspiration and underwriting in 1965 for Cartier's creation of 17 gold and enameled boxes decorated by fine and semi-precious gems. These were not made to be sold but were left by Wilding to the British Museum to represent the modern skilled crafts of goldsmiths, enameling, and jewelers in the 20th century that equalled the skills of those employed by Faberge in the 1800's. I Googled these, and they are indeed works of art.
July 22, 2022
I stumbled on this book at a Barnes and Noble but didn't purchase it then. I again stumbled on it at my public library and decided to borrow it. I enjoy biographies generally, but I am a lover of history, specifically English and the British Royal Family, I am not a lover of jewelry and have little interest in luxury high end jewelry and prior to reading this I associated the name Cartier with a specific tiara, panther brooches and Wallis Simpson. Once I started reading the story of this remarkable family and their perseverance in a topsy-turvy industry for over a century I was enthralled. Ms. Brickell gently tells the story of her own family in a deeply personal way, in moments you fear for their survival, worry for the brand and it's employees, and mourn their losses both person and business, you will also become completely fascinated by far away cultures lost to history, spellbound by ancient pieces given modern life, and absolutely gobsmacked by the staggering price tags of jewels.
The Cartier's story could not have been told as vividly, lovingly or heartbreakingly by any one not a member of the family. At times I could feel her sadness, bewilderment and frustration with her ancestors and at others I could sense that what she learned about them was awe inspiring, endearing, and cherished by her.
When I picked up the book a couple weeks ago I had little interest in jewelry or luxury brands but the book transcends those things and becomes a family history with love, respect, aggravation and distrust. Young men coming into adulthood from apprenticeship to ownership and a family business that stood the trials of war and the test of time.
I urge others to take the journey and step into the world of the Cartiers.
The Cartier's story could not have been told as vividly, lovingly or heartbreakingly by any one not a member of the family. At times I could feel her sadness, bewilderment and frustration with her ancestors and at others I could sense that what she learned about them was awe inspiring, endearing, and cherished by her.
When I picked up the book a couple weeks ago I had little interest in jewelry or luxury brands but the book transcends those things and becomes a family history with love, respect, aggravation and distrust. Young men coming into adulthood from apprenticeship to ownership and a family business that stood the trials of war and the test of time.
I urge others to take the journey and step into the world of the Cartiers.
November 25, 2019
Using the resources of first account interviews with family members as well as a trunk full of correspondence, author Francesca Cartier Brickell tells her family’s fascinating history.
Through multiple revolutions, world wars and economic downturns, the Cartier family business persevered. I found their resourcefulness completely fascinating. For example, during the Gilded Age, the family expanded their business to America to take advantage of the extravagances of the nouveau riche. During the Great Depression, they turned eastward as neither Russia nor India was affected by that economic downturn.
While the title implies new information, there are many sources of the history of the Cartier family business. These easily found sources are much shorter, but they don’t provide the depth of information about the family. Ms. Brickell’s account of her family history is well written, unbiased, and informative. This book is sure to appeal to jewelry lovers and history buffs alike.
I received an advance copy of this book from Ballentine Books via NetGalley in exchange for my honest review. For more reading recommendations, visit Book Junkie Reviews at www.abookjunkiereviews.wordpress.com
Through multiple revolutions, world wars and economic downturns, the Cartier family business persevered. I found their resourcefulness completely fascinating. For example, during the Gilded Age, the family expanded their business to America to take advantage of the extravagances of the nouveau riche. During the Great Depression, they turned eastward as neither Russia nor India was affected by that economic downturn.
While the title implies new information, there are many sources of the history of the Cartier family business. These easily found sources are much shorter, but they don’t provide the depth of information about the family. Ms. Brickell’s account of her family history is well written, unbiased, and informative. This book is sure to appeal to jewelry lovers and history buffs alike.
I received an advance copy of this book from Ballentine Books via NetGalley in exchange for my honest review. For more reading recommendations, visit Book Junkie Reviews at www.abookjunkiereviews.wordpress.com
September 8, 2020
A gem of a book that is a joint biography of the Cartier family, a social history of high society and jewelry trends in Europe and the United States during the 19th and 20th centuries, and a study of how generations of Cartiers built a business that employed innovative sales techniques to stand out from the competition. There are sections about the histories of individual jewels including the Hope Diamond and the Romanov Emeralds and discussion of how these jewels came and went from the Cartier collection as Empires fell in the 20th century and royalty needed to sell the gems that they had once acquired at great cost. The book is filled with fascinating historical figures including the imperious Grand Duchess Vladimir who acquired a fabled jewel collection then fled the Russian Revolutions of 1917 and Grace Kelly, who insisted on wearing her Cartier engagement ring from Prince Rainier of Monaco during her last film before her marriage, High Society. Authir Francesca Cartier Brickell is a descendant of the Cartier family and includes interviews with her late grandfather Jean-Jacques Cartier along with her extensive historical research. Highly recommended.
August 3, 2025
This was so interesting and eye opening!! Such a cool insight into the making of the huge jewellery firm from the start to present. Before reading this I associated Cartier with just their love bracelets and other simple, slightly overhyped, but classic pieces. But there’s SO much more to it, and this deep dive was an amazing way to get to know the founders and see the immense influence they had (and still have) on the industry for over a century. Looking at their breathtaking craftsmanship and highly influential clients and how they’re always in the background of every historic event made me have a whole new elevated image for the jewelry firm.
I will say tho that’s it’s SLIGHTLY too long. 500+ pages on random prices of jewellery for random clients got a bit repetitive, even for an avid jewellery and history lover like me. I had to make myself finish it after the halfway point.
I will say tho that’s it’s SLIGHTLY too long. 500+ pages on random prices of jewellery for random clients got a bit repetitive, even for an avid jewellery and history lover like me. I had to make myself finish it after the halfway point.
November 13, 2020
Beautiful.
September 23, 2019
Fascinating history of the Cartier Jewelry Empire. This was practically all new information for me. Appreciated the photos distributed throughout the book. I supplemented by going online to see the jewelry in color—more impactful than b/w. At 500+ pages of text there is a lot of detail that I found very interesting. I did receive an ARC of the book via Goodreads Giveaways.
January 7, 2020
What a gift to be able to know and share such a lively, rich family history.
If you enjoy:
1. Nonfiction spanning generations of a family
2. History - This book covers 4 generations so you’ll get their experiences through a lot of major events including world wars, the Great Depression etc.
3. Business, particularly self-made, family businesses and how they evolve and change with the times
...then I think you’ll find this book enjoyable.
Cons
1. It’s LONG y’all. It takes up a lot of reading time. But I will say, I don’t know the first thing about luxury ANYTHING, and I still found it enjoyable and worthwhile. More than jewelry, it’s about family, hard-work, sacrifice and dreams which makes it relatable.
2. MANY people are introduced throughout the book. There are many similar/same-named family members, making it difficult to keep up with who’s who at times, especially if you are prone to putting a book down for a while and then coming back to it later.
If you enjoy:
1. Nonfiction spanning generations of a family
2. History - This book covers 4 generations so you’ll get their experiences through a lot of major events including world wars, the Great Depression etc.
3. Business, particularly self-made, family businesses and how they evolve and change with the times
...then I think you’ll find this book enjoyable.
Cons
1. It’s LONG y’all. It takes up a lot of reading time. But I will say, I don’t know the first thing about luxury ANYTHING, and I still found it enjoyable and worthwhile. More than jewelry, it’s about family, hard-work, sacrifice and dreams which makes it relatable.
2. MANY people are introduced throughout the book. There are many similar/same-named family members, making it difficult to keep up with who’s who at times, especially if you are prone to putting a book down for a while and then coming back to it later.
April 12, 2020
What an absolute gem of a book, pun intended. Thank you very much, Francesca Cartier Brickell for bringing to life the true story of the renowned jewellery business, and the family and people at the heart of its operation until 1974. Cartier was founded in Paris, 1847, by Louis-Francois Cartier when he took over the workshop of his master, Bernard Picard, from whom he learned the jewellery making trade. And living through the aftermath of the French Revolution and Franco-Prussian war in 1871, to when his son Alfred took over the company's reins in 1874, where he specialised in gems. However, it was Alfred's sons, Louis the creative innovator, Pierre the business and sales mastermind and Jacques who was a mixture of both in my opinion, who put Cartier on the map.Louis ran the Paris branch, moving to 13 Rue de la Paix in 1899. He pioneered in mystery clocks, the introduction of platinum for jewellery creation, to fashionable wristwatches and exotic Orientalist Art Deco designs. In 1904, the Brazilian pioneer aviator, Alberto Santos-Dumont complained to Louis of the unreliability and impracticality of using pocket watches while flying. Louis then designed a wristwatch with a distinctive masculine format. And Santos promoted it.The "Santos" watch was Cartier's first men's wristwatch. In 1907, Cartier signed a contract with Edmond Jaeger, who agreed to exclusively supply the movements for Cartier watches. Among the Cartier team was Charles Jacqueau, who joined Louis Cartier in 1909 for the rest of his life, and Jeanne Toussaint, who was Director of Fine Jewellery from 1933. Pierre, on the other hand, established the New York City branch in 1909, then locating to 653 Fifth Avenue, the mansion of Morton Freeman Plant.Pierre bought it from the Plants in exchange for a double stranded pearl necklace valued at the time of $1million.Cartier became successful due to the close bond of the three brothers. Any decision made about the business was discussed at length and run by everyone involved. Cartier focused on quality, elegance, simplicity and discretion.They had high expectations from their staff to embody Cartier's values, from salespeople to the creators. Even the two world wars and the depression couldn't stop Cartier.They diversified in stationery and created trends, instead of following them. From royalty and aristocracy to American heiresses, courtesans, nouveau riche to politicians and celebrities, Cartier has remained the jeweller for the ages. When monarchies such as the Romanov dynasty in Russia disintegrated during World War One, Cartier helped the royals to sell their jewels to people who appreciated the history behind the crown jewels and gems, and they did the same when the Indian royals got stripped of their powers and possessions during Indian independence in 1947. The selling of their jewels acted as a pension for the exiled royals to fund their post-royal lifestyles, and they had complete trust in Cartier to do right by them. Cartier had all sorts of famous clientele that included the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Barbara Hutton, Edward VII to Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala for whom the famous 1925 Patiala Necklace was made. From people buying jewellery for status display to those who appreciated the art and beauty of fine gems, Cartier was for those who loved elegance and quality, and the heavy price tag was worth it. With royal warrants ranging from Thailand to Russia and much of Europe, it is no surprise that King Edward VII of England famously referred to Cartier as the ‘jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers’. The firm came to dominate international jewellery design in the early 20th century under the auspices of his three enterprising sons: Louis Cartier in Paris, Pierre Cartier in New York and Jacques Cartier in London. With a roster of visionary designers such as Charles Jacqueau and Pierre Lemarchand, and charismatic creative director Jeanne Toussaint, Cartier’s designs articulated a wide range of influences into highly original and elegant jewels that defined their eras. Their ‘Tutti Frutti’ pieces brought carved emeralds, rubies and sapphires adapted from Indian jewels together in riotous combination from the mid 1920s, while their opulent ‘big cat’ jewels draped themselves across such legendary collectors as Barbara Hutton and the Duchess of Windsor, and became the house’s most beloved mascots. Unfortunately, after World War Two and the deaths of Louis and Jacques from severe illness, it was up to Pierre to take charge of the company and its staff. He was impressed that Jean-Jacques Cartier, one of his nephews and Jacques's son, and the author's grandfather, had a deep and keen interest in running Cartier London and keep the family tradition going, but the same cannot be said for his other nephew and Louis's son, Claude Cartier, who was more interested in the New York high life and pleasure seeking than the Cartier business. He took charge of Cartier New York, but the post-war climate was one of austerity and casualisation, instead of the halcyon days of prosperity and formality, and later on, the "youthquake" and counterculture of the 1960s, saw a lot of people disregard luxury and prefer functionality, and instead swapping to digital watches and the likes of Tiffany gaining prominence over Cartier. After the death of Pierre in 1964, Claude Cartier (Louis's son), and Marionne Claudelle (Pierre's daughter)-who was an artist, and Jean Jacques Cartier — who respectively headed the Cartier affiliates in London, New York and Paris — sold the businesses, with Jean-Jacques being the last to sell, albeit reluctantly, because all he wanted was to create unique and quality jewellery and preserve his family's legacy, but the times didn't really allow for that, and the cousins were separated, and their bond wasn't that close as the brothers had been. Everyone had different ideas for Cartier's future. With a heavy heart, he sold the London business. However, despite the fact that Cartier isn't owned by the family anymore, Francesca Cartier Brickell sought to capture the brilliant legacy her grandfather, great grandfather and great uncles, back to her great great and great great great grandfathers left behind and they had plenty of lessons to teach us. "Never copy, only create." You always learn by creating, not by copying. Always be at the forefront of innovation, embrace it. Creativity isn't easy to achieve, you must always work at it and dedicate yourself to your craft. Seek simplicity, quality and discretion and always be kind and participate in various activities and organisations that relate to your line of work, as this will help you build your network. Seek and recognise talent in others. Be financially independent and frugal, and don't take on unnecessary debt. Be consciously aware of your surroundings and take inspiration from nature and other forms of art.
April 21, 2020
Very interesting and well written. I loved pulling out my reference books on jewels since the imagination won’t do justice to these creations. I’m fortunate to have seen some of jewels in person at exhibitions and auctions including the Duchess of Windsor, Elizabeth Taylor and Margorie Merriweather Post). There are many books, but I would recommend Elizabeth Taylor’s My Love Affair with Jewelry, The Jewels of the duchess of Windsor by John Culme and Nicholas Raynor, the Smithsonian’s the National Gem Collection and Spectacular: Gems and Jewelry from the Merriweather Post Collection (Hillwood Estate Museum and Garden).
April 2, 2020
This book is a work of nonfiction, but at times, reading it felt like reading an escapist novel. The story of a family who founded one of the most famous jewelry stores is complete with internal family drama and accented with the pursuit of fabulous gems like the Hope Diamond make for fun reading. The wide swept of European history is present too, as the impact of war and depression are explored for their impacts on the family and the business. I enjoyed this book, and I'd recommend it for anyone interested in the history of the Cartier business.
February 12, 2020
A bit of a slog to get through, but worth it. I knew nothing of the Cartiers--the family, the business or the stores. Much more educated now on those topics as well as a few lessons in world history and how the definition of luxury has changed over time.
January 22, 2022
Bourgeoisie propaganda.
March 27, 2022
While I was debating between giving this book a three or four star rating, two reasons led me to give it four stars: firstly, the immense amount of time and research that the author, Francesca Cartier Brickell (granddaughter of the late Jean-Jacques Cartier, the last Cartier to hold the prestigious firm in family hands) put into making this book a reality. It basically spans over the time period from when the firm was in family hands, which was from 1847 (when her great-great-great grandfather, Louis François Cartier first bought his own workshop) up until 1974 or so, when her grandfather knew he could no longer manage the London branch on his own (and with the death of his mother who was the major shareholder, other siblings not invested in the family business wanted their inheritance). So yeah, over 100 years of clients, commissioned pieces and the details of those pieces, stories about the three brothers told to her from letters, former workers, clients, etc. made this project a massive undertaking. The second reason for giving this four stars is that Cartier gems truly are a sight to behold. I’m not even the biggest jewelry lover, but I can appreciate much of the creativity and innovation behind the intricate designs made over the years. I have to admit, I’d die to own one of those panther bracelets. But, as I don’t quite have the $7 million retrieved for the last auctioned one, I don’t think I’ll be holding my breath.
If you want to read this book and get through it all within a month, you will certainly have to have a lot of patience. Although there are certainly interesting “human sides” to it (as well as all of the history that comes with it, like the Russian Revolution, World War I & II, and the Great Depression, to name a few) I kind of laughed when reading the acknowledgements (yes, I have been told that I’m strange for reading the acknowledgments, whatever lol) and Cartier-Brickell mentions how her editor “never pushes her to prioritize the glamour ahead of the story and its characters.”
I’m rather certain that there wasn’t a need for this “push” because Cartier-Brickell does a fantastic job on her own of mentioning EVERY.SINGLE.ROYAL.NAME along with anyone “important” in society, to the point that it’s honestly a bit obnoxious. Yes, it is interesting to hear about certain buyers, ones we all know... the Romanovs, for example, or the Windsors. But literally nearly every page seems to have to speak of “so-and-so Princess of (insert name here) loved commissioning pieces from Cartier. During her reign, she commissioned around 30 pieces...” (goes on to describe many pieces, and of course, mentions the immense wealth each aristocrat or high society member had, and how much was paid for each handcrafted jewel piece). I guess it just gets ... a bit repetitive? Those are parts that could certainly have been left out, as they really don’t bring a “human” element to the story but more of a “snobbery” element.
Most of the characters are kinda... ehh, which makes it difficult too. I don’t usually make a huge deal out of having “likeable” characters from fiction novels, but when we’re talking about real people? Yeah, I’d like to have some respect for them. Aside from the youngest brother (her great-grandfather) Jacques Cartier, and her grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier, it’s not all that easy. Especially when it comes to the entitlement shown by the eldest heir.
Easily, the least liked award goes to Louis, the eldest heir, as I mentioned above. He was desperate to be a part of aristocratic high society and it seemed his reputation was far more important to him than anything else (the only person that seemingly outshines him in the horrible person department is his son Claude, who has zero interest in working or running the firm, only reaping the rewards from the famous last name he carries).
But back to Louis. I mean, he’s referred to as “fiercely loyal and loving” but... would you really call a man that threw his first wife in a sanatorium “loving”? They kept speaking of her mental afflictions, yet there was never any real diagnosis given. Hmm. I mean, she was an heiress herself, and it was solely thanks to the fortune her family provided that Louis was able to expand the business empire to the degree in which he did. And he repays her by placing her in an insane asylum. It’s pretty obvious that she thought from early on in life, there would be more adventure for her in store, rather than simply raising Louis’s three children while watching her husband travel abroad, carrying out flirtations and affairs, I’m sure. She complained of never getting to leave the house to go on her own vacations. So I guess he did what any man at that time did who had a “difficult” wife: have her committed.
As bad as this sounds, he does it a SECOND time to his poor daughter, even though he was the reason behind all of her grief and loss. How? Well, when a precious diamond necklace goes missing, it is quickly determined that this was an inside job. This creates divisions within the company when Louis accuses René Revillon, his daughter Anne-Marie’s husband and his son-in-law, of being the thief. This is despite years of hard work and dedication to the family business. Apparently it causes such inner turmoil within the Paris Maison, that René is encouraged to “take some time off” and stay in New York until the investigation is complete. When it finally comes to light that René is indeed innocent, it’s too little, too late. He already has been suffering from heart conditions and not to be put under stressful conditions (presumably, this was quite stressful). Apparently Dear Ol’ Dad was also quite stubborn and despite René’s vindication, he was still hesitant to issue any sort of formal apology. Finally, after many family members and Cartier employees begged (the ones who could get through to him) Louis decides he will forgive René and he will do so in person. But, by the time he’s arranging his flight to New York, René has either a heart attack or stroke, and dies.
What does Louis do when he finds that his daughter is inconsolable with grief after the death of her husband? The only person she really shared a bond with, as they had no children and her mother was in an asylum, and her father, always working? Well, once he’s told that she’ll likely need around the clock care, he decides he simply cannot burden the weight of this massive responsibility. So he sends her to the sanatorium as well! Without a single look back, at least as it comes across in the book.
Despite all of the superficial accounts of this wealthy customer here and that wealthy customer there, along with some of the entitlement issues concerning certain family members, it is a good read on a long history of one of the world’s most renowned jewelers, Cartier, and the brotherly love that kept the business alive through so many horrible historic times.
I’d really recommend this though only for people who at least have a bit of an interest in luxury goods or gemstones, and high society. If that stuff annoys you, then you’ll almost certainly be put off by this book. I understand Cartier-Brickell has an amazingly unique family history, and kudos to her for bringing it to life the way she did. She has every right to be proud of her family, but not I don’t feel like everyone will see it quite the same, lol (of course it’s easy to be biased when it’s your family, too).
One last gripe: none of the female characters have anything more than side roles: apparently the founder, Louis-François Cartier, didn’t believe women could be competent in the family business, and this was something passed on from one generation to the next? It was just odd, that with all the women, the only one who actually seemed to find success at Cartier was Louis Cartier’s lover, Jeanne Touissant (apparently also his soulmate, but his father, Alfred, urged him not to marry her because she was a divorcée who would “stain” the prestigious family reputation. Naturally, Louis, the fiercely loyal and stubborn guy he was, dis - oh, no, he agreed, “reluctantly”, that she was indeed not marriage material). The Cartiers seem to owe a lot of their success to the women in their lives, both to the enormous wealth each marriage would bring, and the woman’s patience at having a husband who was never around. But if they truly did appreciate them, it isn’t really shown all that much. At least not in the sense that they had any real contribution to the success of the business.
If you want to read this book and get through it all within a month, you will certainly have to have a lot of patience. Although there are certainly interesting “human sides” to it (as well as all of the history that comes with it, like the Russian Revolution, World War I & II, and the Great Depression, to name a few) I kind of laughed when reading the acknowledgements (yes, I have been told that I’m strange for reading the acknowledgments, whatever lol) and Cartier-Brickell mentions how her editor “never pushes her to prioritize the glamour ahead of the story and its characters.”
I’m rather certain that there wasn’t a need for this “push” because Cartier-Brickell does a fantastic job on her own of mentioning EVERY.SINGLE.ROYAL.NAME along with anyone “important” in society, to the point that it’s honestly a bit obnoxious. Yes, it is interesting to hear about certain buyers, ones we all know... the Romanovs, for example, or the Windsors. But literally nearly every page seems to have to speak of “so-and-so Princess of (insert name here) loved commissioning pieces from Cartier. During her reign, she commissioned around 30 pieces...” (goes on to describe many pieces, and of course, mentions the immense wealth each aristocrat or high society member had, and how much was paid for each handcrafted jewel piece). I guess it just gets ... a bit repetitive? Those are parts that could certainly have been left out, as they really don’t bring a “human” element to the story but more of a “snobbery” element.
Most of the characters are kinda... ehh, which makes it difficult too. I don’t usually make a huge deal out of having “likeable” characters from fiction novels, but when we’re talking about real people? Yeah, I’d like to have some respect for them. Aside from the youngest brother (her great-grandfather) Jacques Cartier, and her grandfather, Jean-Jacques Cartier, it’s not all that easy. Especially when it comes to the entitlement shown by the eldest heir.
Easily, the least liked award goes to Louis, the eldest heir, as I mentioned above. He was desperate to be a part of aristocratic high society and it seemed his reputation was far more important to him than anything else (the only person that seemingly outshines him in the horrible person department is his son Claude, who has zero interest in working or running the firm, only reaping the rewards from the famous last name he carries).
But back to Louis. I mean, he’s referred to as “fiercely loyal and loving” but... would you really call a man that threw his first wife in a sanatorium “loving”? They kept speaking of her mental afflictions, yet there was never any real diagnosis given. Hmm. I mean, she was an heiress herself, and it was solely thanks to the fortune her family provided that Louis was able to expand the business empire to the degree in which he did. And he repays her by placing her in an insane asylum. It’s pretty obvious that she thought from early on in life, there would be more adventure for her in store, rather than simply raising Louis’s three children while watching her husband travel abroad, carrying out flirtations and affairs, I’m sure. She complained of never getting to leave the house to go on her own vacations. So I guess he did what any man at that time did who had a “difficult” wife: have her committed.
As bad as this sounds, he does it a SECOND time to his poor daughter, even though he was the reason behind all of her grief and loss. How? Well, when a precious diamond necklace goes missing, it is quickly determined that this was an inside job. This creates divisions within the company when Louis accuses René Revillon, his daughter Anne-Marie’s husband and his son-in-law, of being the thief. This is despite years of hard work and dedication to the family business. Apparently it causes such inner turmoil within the Paris Maison, that René is encouraged to “take some time off” and stay in New York until the investigation is complete. When it finally comes to light that René is indeed innocent, it’s too little, too late. He already has been suffering from heart conditions and not to be put under stressful conditions (presumably, this was quite stressful). Apparently Dear Ol’ Dad was also quite stubborn and despite René’s vindication, he was still hesitant to issue any sort of formal apology. Finally, after many family members and Cartier employees begged (the ones who could get through to him) Louis decides he will forgive René and he will do so in person. But, by the time he’s arranging his flight to New York, René has either a heart attack or stroke, and dies.
What does Louis do when he finds that his daughter is inconsolable with grief after the death of her husband? The only person she really shared a bond with, as they had no children and her mother was in an asylum, and her father, always working? Well, once he’s told that she’ll likely need around the clock care, he decides he simply cannot burden the weight of this massive responsibility. So he sends her to the sanatorium as well! Without a single look back, at least as it comes across in the book.
Despite all of the superficial accounts of this wealthy customer here and that wealthy customer there, along with some of the entitlement issues concerning certain family members, it is a good read on a long history of one of the world’s most renowned jewelers, Cartier, and the brotherly love that kept the business alive through so many horrible historic times.
I’d really recommend this though only for people who at least have a bit of an interest in luxury goods or gemstones, and high society. If that stuff annoys you, then you’ll almost certainly be put off by this book. I understand Cartier-Brickell has an amazingly unique family history, and kudos to her for bringing it to life the way she did. She has every right to be proud of her family, but not I don’t feel like everyone will see it quite the same, lol (of course it’s easy to be biased when it’s your family, too).
One last gripe: none of the female characters have anything more than side roles: apparently the founder, Louis-François Cartier, didn’t believe women could be competent in the family business, and this was something passed on from one generation to the next? It was just odd, that with all the women, the only one who actually seemed to find success at Cartier was Louis Cartier’s lover, Jeanne Touissant (apparently also his soulmate, but his father, Alfred, urged him not to marry her because she was a divorcée who would “stain” the prestigious family reputation. Naturally, Louis, the fiercely loyal and stubborn guy he was, dis - oh, no, he agreed, “reluctantly”, that she was indeed not marriage material). The Cartiers seem to owe a lot of their success to the women in their lives, both to the enormous wealth each marriage would bring, and the woman’s patience at having a husband who was never around. But if they truly did appreciate them, it isn’t really shown all that much. At least not in the sense that they had any real contribution to the success of the business.
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