Anthony Bourdain's legacy is that of a man who took an unlikely career path to fame and fortune, toured the world initially as a lark and ended up becoming a cultural reporter of unparalleled excellence and insight, and experienced a second-act life way beyond the scope of his first forty-plus years on this planet, as a line cook and struggling author. When he died in 2018, the world truly lost an icon. I think many of us who were fans of his work considered him more than just the person we saw on TV; we saw him as a friend.
It's the people in his life who make up the voices heard in "Bourdain: The Definitive Oral Biography," by Laurie Woolever, and they paint a portrait of a very complicated man. Bourdain from his earliest days was the brightest kid in the room, a talented illustrator and writer who managed to find his way into working in kitchens and pursue his passion for cooking for the rest of his adult life. When he wrote "Kitchen Confidential" in 2000, his world changed; offers to travel and sample other countries' cuisine provided him with a platform to speak up about the world at large in a way that few Western travelers ever had before. The people who speak about him in this book all knew him at some stage of his life, or through all of it (like his mother, and younger brother Christopher). His many friends get a lot of opportunities to speak about him, but the most revealing are the comments by his two ex-wives and only daughter, showing that the man behind the persona was a warm, funny, loving presence when he wanted to be (and when he wasn't able to, he felt an immense guilt about the destruction of such elemental relationships and the collateral damage that could be inflicted). His last years get a healthy chunk of reportage here, with his relationship with Asia Argento and the complications in his life that arose from that. I don't personally think we'll ever really know what drove him to commit suicide in June 2018, and I'm not entirely comfortably "blaming" any one person or cause for it. But I think that the voices here who speak to their notions of why he did it, and what it was that pushed him over the brink, are worth considering.
But the real pull of the book is in the middle, once "Kitchen Confidential" landed and Bourdain became a world traveler. Despite his snarkiness on-camera, Bourdain was much softer and nicer, more loyal and true to his friends, than he could appear from casual viewing. I think ultimately as viewers, we all saw that side eventually emerge because it was who he truly was. And it feels good to know that, according to most of the interviewees for this book, that's who he really was. He was by no means a saint, as many point out: in some ways, travel became an addiction in his later life the way that heroin and other hard drugs had been during his cooking days. But Tony Bourdain could not be reduced to one or two aspects of his personality, he was more complicated and multifaceted than even his swaggering persona would have you believe. And his is a voice that much missed from the world these days.
It's fair to say that many other works will emerge and have emerged to document the life of this iconoclast figure in world travel and entertainment. But "Bourdain: The Definitive Oral Biography" goes a long way towards reminding us that Anthony Bourdain was a very important person to a whole lot of people the world over. And the tragedy of his loss may be how little he realized it at the time of his death.