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The Winter Dress
Two women separated by centuries but connected by one beautiful silk dress. A captivating novel based on a real-life shipwreck discovered off Texel Island by the bestselling author of Gulliver's Wife, Lauren Chater.
Jo Baaker, a textiles historian and Dutch ex-pat is drawn back to the island where she was born to investigate the provenance of a 17th century silk dress. Retrieved by local divers from a sunken shipwreck, the dress offers tantalising clues about the way people lived and died during Holland's famous Golden Age.
Jo's research leads her to Anna Tesseltje, a poor Amsterdam laundress turned ladies companion who served the artist Catharina van Shurman for one season at her property outside the Hague. The two women were said to be close, so why did Anna abandon Catharina at the height of her misfortune? And was the dress a gift or did Anna come by it through less honest means? Jo is determined to find out, but as she delves deeper into Anna's history, troubling details about her own past begin to emerge, disrupting the personal narrative she has trusted for sixteen years.
On the small Dutch island of Texel where fortunes are lost and secrets lie buried for centuries, Jo will finally discover the truth about herself and her connection to the woman who wore the Winter Dress.
Jo Baaker, a textiles historian and Dutch ex-pat is drawn back to the island where she was born to investigate the provenance of a 17th century silk dress. Retrieved by local divers from a sunken shipwreck, the dress offers tantalising clues about the way people lived and died during Holland's famous Golden Age.
Jo's research leads her to Anna Tesseltje, a poor Amsterdam laundress turned ladies companion who served the artist Catharina van Shurman for one season at her property outside the Hague. The two women were said to be close, so why did Anna abandon Catharina at the height of her misfortune? And was the dress a gift or did Anna come by it through less honest means? Jo is determined to find out, but as she delves deeper into Anna's history, troubling details about her own past begin to emerge, disrupting the personal narrative she has trusted for sixteen years.
On the small Dutch island of Texel where fortunes are lost and secrets lie buried for centuries, Jo will finally discover the truth about herself and her connection to the woman who wore the Winter Dress.
344 pages, Paperback
First published March 30, 2022
64 people are currently reading
2431 people want to read
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 149 reviews
April 1, 2022
When textiles historian, Jo Baaker was contacted in Sydney by Bram, a close friend from her childhood years on the Dutch island of Texel, the news of a discovery from a shipwreck near the island was exciting for Jo. She immediately organized to head to the island, contacting Liam Pinney in London to see if he’d be interested in partnering her for this journey of discovery. The 17th century silk dress was a massive find, and Jo and Liam were tasked with finding the information about the dress – who it had belonged to, who had worn it and how it appeared in a trunk on a sodden but well preserved La Dragon, centuries later.
In Amsterdam in 1651, Anna Tesseltje had lost both her parents, and now her beloved sister. The position of companion to artist, Catharina van Shurman couldn’t have come at a better time. The few items Anna kept when she left her modest home included something special which had been her mother’s. She knew she would never leave it behind. But her circumstances meant there wasn’t a lot else to take. Catharina and her twin Crispijn, lived together in the beautiful property, Sterenwijck, outside the Hague, and it wasn’t long before Anna and Catharina were close. The arrival of Maarten Horst and his young wife Blanche into Anna’s life would see a dramatic turning point…
The Winter Dress by Aussie author Lauren Chater is a fascinating and intriguing look at life in the 1700s, a silk dress and the journey by Jo in the current day, to discover its origin. The obvious research that went into this novel brought the times and people to life. Centred in and around Texel, centuries apart, The Winter Dress is one I highly recommend.
With thanks to Simon & Schuster AU for my uncorrected proof ARC to read in exchange for an honest review.
In Amsterdam in 1651, Anna Tesseltje had lost both her parents, and now her beloved sister. The position of companion to artist, Catharina van Shurman couldn’t have come at a better time. The few items Anna kept when she left her modest home included something special which had been her mother’s. She knew she would never leave it behind. But her circumstances meant there wasn’t a lot else to take. Catharina and her twin Crispijn, lived together in the beautiful property, Sterenwijck, outside the Hague, and it wasn’t long before Anna and Catharina were close. The arrival of Maarten Horst and his young wife Blanche into Anna’s life would see a dramatic turning point…
The Winter Dress by Aussie author Lauren Chater is a fascinating and intriguing look at life in the 1700s, a silk dress and the journey by Jo in the current day, to discover its origin. The obvious research that went into this novel brought the times and people to life. Centred in and around Texel, centuries apart, The Winter Dress is one I highly recommend.
With thanks to Simon & Schuster AU for my uncorrected proof ARC to read in exchange for an honest review.
April 7, 2022
I love an historical fiction novel based on an element from history or a true story and we certainly have that here. In 2014, a big storm hit off the coast of Texel, clearing away layers upon layers of sand and mud from a known 17th century shipwreck. Texel is located off the coast of the Netherlands north of Amsterdam, and this natural event created an unexpected opportunity to explore the shipwreck known as the Palmwood wreck. Many items were recovered by divers, including a remarkably preserved 17th century silk dress.
Textiles are rarely recovered from shipwrecks and garments from this era rarely survive, so for this silk dress to survive on the bottom of the Wadden Sea for more than 350 years is quite extraordinary.
The news of this incredible discovery travelled around the world and inspired Lauren Chater to imagine the woman who wore the dress. As a result, the seeds for The Winter Dress were well and truly sewn. (Sorry, couldn't resist).
Our main character Jo Baaker is a textiles historian and an interesting woman in her own right. In her words:
"One of the reasons I chose to pursue dress history was because I wanted to bear witness to the creation of textiles that simply won't be around in fifty years. The garments deserve better and so do the people who wore them." Page 155
Jo is astonished when she learns about the discovery of the dress in the book and I couldn't help but cringe alongside Jo when she hears how the dress was transported and hosed down by local divers trying to get the worst of the mud off. Eeeek!!! Jo is captivated by the dress and is honoured to be part of the curating process, desperately wondering about the life of the woman who once wore it.
The Winter Dress is a dual narrative and the author takes us back in time to Amsterdam in 1651 where we meet Anna Tesseltje on the last day of her old life. Anna's family have fallen on hard times, and after starting work as a laundress, her brother secures her a position as a companion to artist Catharina van Shurman.
Meanwhile, Jo finds herself caught up in the excitement of the discovery in Texel and the lurking professional competition made me grind my teeth while my heart ached for the choices Anna faced in her timeline.
Expertly researched and beautifully told, this is a well woven and alluring story with a lustre between the pages you're not likely to forget.
The Winter Dress by Lauren Chater is engaging and the author's enthusiasm to imagine and reveal the owner of the dress is contagious. This is a story about grief, love, loss and discovery and is highly recommended for fans of Kate Forsyth, Tracy Chevalier, Kayte Nunn, Philippa Gregory, Kate Morton; and of course if you enjoyed Gulliver's Wife by Lauren Chater, you'll love this!
Textiles are rarely recovered from shipwrecks and garments from this era rarely survive, so for this silk dress to survive on the bottom of the Wadden Sea for more than 350 years is quite extraordinary.
The news of this incredible discovery travelled around the world and inspired Lauren Chater to imagine the woman who wore the dress. As a result, the seeds for The Winter Dress were well and truly sewn. (Sorry, couldn't resist).
Our main character Jo Baaker is a textiles historian and an interesting woman in her own right. In her words:
"One of the reasons I chose to pursue dress history was because I wanted to bear witness to the creation of textiles that simply won't be around in fifty years. The garments deserve better and so do the people who wore them." Page 155
Jo is astonished when she learns about the discovery of the dress in the book and I couldn't help but cringe alongside Jo when she hears how the dress was transported and hosed down by local divers trying to get the worst of the mud off. Eeeek!!! Jo is captivated by the dress and is honoured to be part of the curating process, desperately wondering about the life of the woman who once wore it.
The Winter Dress is a dual narrative and the author takes us back in time to Amsterdam in 1651 where we meet Anna Tesseltje on the last day of her old life. Anna's family have fallen on hard times, and after starting work as a laundress, her brother secures her a position as a companion to artist Catharina van Shurman.
Meanwhile, Jo finds herself caught up in the excitement of the discovery in Texel and the lurking professional competition made me grind my teeth while my heart ached for the choices Anna faced in her timeline.
Expertly researched and beautifully told, this is a well woven and alluring story with a lustre between the pages you're not likely to forget.
The Winter Dress by Lauren Chater is engaging and the author's enthusiasm to imagine and reveal the owner of the dress is contagious. This is a story about grief, love, loss and discovery and is highly recommended for fans of Kate Forsyth, Tracy Chevalier, Kayte Nunn, Philippa Gregory, Kate Morton; and of course if you enjoyed Gulliver's Wife by Lauren Chater, you'll love this!
April 6, 2022
It is amazing how Lauren Chater has taken such slim threads of fact and spun them into a memorable spellbinding story: an exquisite imagining of what might have been. As character Jo Baaker (a textiles historian) states, “it was those cracks within the past that let in the light of possibility, small tears in the fabric of the past.” This is a perfect description or definition of what historical fiction is at its best.
The Winter Dress is a stunning dual timeline novel of a perfect dance between past and present. The transition is effortless as we move back and forth between Jo’s world and Anna’s. It is a seamless journey that keeps us watching our present day characters as they search for the truth while the 17th century ones play it out. What is the origin of this relic? This unique dress draws us into its mystery and invites us to peer beneath the cloudy surface of the past.
It is evident that Lauren has done her research thoroughly. The 17th century characters are engaging and believable. They act as one would expect from historical references. Their dialogue and vocabulary are appropriate, too, but easy enough for the modern mind to understand.
The setting is wild and enchanting littered with seals, seabirds and waterways. Through Lauren’s lovely descriptions of the land and seascape and its people, I feel as though I have visited present day Texel. Equally, I was transported back to the 1650’s where I could smell the long burning candles, feel the rough wooden floors and cold stone walls, and imagine what it could have been like to pass through these shadowy halls of history.
One of the themes of this novel is endurance. Particularly for women fighting hard for a rightful place in society. Jo, Anna and Catharina, have their challenges. Their lives are filled with ample conflicts: relating to faith, society, the heart, family and friends. These hefty battles expose the short falls of human ideals, structures and relationships. But they also highlight the courage and strength these women possess in being able to overcome the odds.
Zeroing in on companionship, we explore the powerful bond between Anna Tesseltje and artist Catharina van Shurman. We are given a sympathetic view of Anna who once was a poor laundress (the descriptions of her previous life and loss are provided with exquisite detail). Then through a strange twist of fate, she becomes a companion to the talented artist Catharina, known as the 10th Muse. It is an engrossing journey that takes us into the folds and fears of the challenges faced by 17th century women.
For Jo, in the modern thread, The Winter Dress is a return to roots where memories, long shelved but not forgotten, are resurrected. The call back to her childhood island – to be part of the interpretation and discovery team of the winter dress, stirs up a lot of memories. Once she lands on Texel, she tries to understand and remember her parents and the life she had on the Dutch island. But while attempting to get reacquainted with her own past life, she undertakes the important mission of confirming who the dress belongs to and the story behind it. We feel her frustration as she keeps running into interference from various sources—one of which is unexpected. Needless to say, our curiosity never falters for we are provided a steady trail of clues to keep us thinking.
Mixed with the family dramas, is the wonder and power of the winter dress. It provides something special for each of our timeline leads. For Anna, it provides a means of transformation: “a comforting omen, a message of hope from her departed mother.” While wearing her mother’s dress, she is a more confident woman. This dress also empowers our modern day character, Jo, in another way. By working on this project, it is her chance to show the world what she can do: to gain recognition. It also offers personal freedom from the ghosts of the past. And for the present provides wonderful connections that certainly add new colour to her life.
Lauren has given us much food for thought. The story explores both the professional academic and the amateur historian: the importance of history keeping (and the handling of artefacts) and why Jo is so passionate about getting the facts right, to find the rightful owner/wearer of the winter dress and to oversee the proper care of such a valuable legacy. We acquire useful information on the process taken when centuries-old sunken ships are discovered and what happens to the goods found on them. We learn how they must be handled but also the damage modern methods can cause if someone does not know what they are doing. Such as: a centuries old fine silk garment being hosed down by ‘chemically infused tap water’ and hung ‘on a wire coat hanger to dry’.
Lauren, also, provides invigorating details of the diving experience itself, into that underwater world of hidden treasures both manmade and natural. So much lies below the surface that is both beautiful and terrifying. Which leads me to my next point: the ever important theme of nature’s healing presence in our lives (in this case the sea) and how it can help us find ourselves again when we become disconnected. Sometimes we have to get lost in its depths to revive our inner voice. Transporting us to the edge of our comfort zone may magnify our fears but also help us tackle the deadly whispers that haunt us in the night. It helps to burn away the dross, the garb that clutters and clothes our shame and disappointments. It is a naked journey we must take into the unknown sometimes but it washes our mind, clarifies our true purpose and provides healing where we need it most.
As this mysterious dress long submerged in the sea surfaces, and its many colours and design details come into view, so does the life of its wearer/owner. Along with Jo’s past life. The textured history of her parents and their unusual relationship spills across the pages of the modern thread giving us an idea of the world that has shaped this ambitious textile historian. In many ways, although worlds and years apart, Jo and Anna share similar experiences and losses which have shaped each of their lives.
This novel will grip your heart and never let go. It is filled with language as rich as the ornamental dress, stitched together with classical threads of literature and culture. Without tears and fading—art comes alive on the page through Lauren’s impressive gift of words. Both past and present timelines flow from the caring hand of a meticulous author.
The Winter Dress is an incredibly moving, passionate and powerful statement of endurance, friendship, survival and healing, that triumphs over sadness, loss, betrayal and hardship. I highly recommend this shimmering imaginative story. It contains special offerings you won’t want to miss. It is as special as the winter dress that has inspired it. 5 Perfect Stars. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Many thanks to Lauren Chater and Simon & Schuster for a review copy.
The Winter Dress is a stunning dual timeline novel of a perfect dance between past and present. The transition is effortless as we move back and forth between Jo’s world and Anna’s. It is a seamless journey that keeps us watching our present day characters as they search for the truth while the 17th century ones play it out. What is the origin of this relic? This unique dress draws us into its mystery and invites us to peer beneath the cloudy surface of the past.
It is evident that Lauren has done her research thoroughly. The 17th century characters are engaging and believable. They act as one would expect from historical references. Their dialogue and vocabulary are appropriate, too, but easy enough for the modern mind to understand.
The setting is wild and enchanting littered with seals, seabirds and waterways. Through Lauren’s lovely descriptions of the land and seascape and its people, I feel as though I have visited present day Texel. Equally, I was transported back to the 1650’s where I could smell the long burning candles, feel the rough wooden floors and cold stone walls, and imagine what it could have been like to pass through these shadowy halls of history.
One of the themes of this novel is endurance. Particularly for women fighting hard for a rightful place in society. Jo, Anna and Catharina, have their challenges. Their lives are filled with ample conflicts: relating to faith, society, the heart, family and friends. These hefty battles expose the short falls of human ideals, structures and relationships. But they also highlight the courage and strength these women possess in being able to overcome the odds.
Zeroing in on companionship, we explore the powerful bond between Anna Tesseltje and artist Catharina van Shurman. We are given a sympathetic view of Anna who once was a poor laundress (the descriptions of her previous life and loss are provided with exquisite detail). Then through a strange twist of fate, she becomes a companion to the talented artist Catharina, known as the 10th Muse. It is an engrossing journey that takes us into the folds and fears of the challenges faced by 17th century women.
For Jo, in the modern thread, The Winter Dress is a return to roots where memories, long shelved but not forgotten, are resurrected. The call back to her childhood island – to be part of the interpretation and discovery team of the winter dress, stirs up a lot of memories. Once she lands on Texel, she tries to understand and remember her parents and the life she had on the Dutch island. But while attempting to get reacquainted with her own past life, she undertakes the important mission of confirming who the dress belongs to and the story behind it. We feel her frustration as she keeps running into interference from various sources—one of which is unexpected. Needless to say, our curiosity never falters for we are provided a steady trail of clues to keep us thinking.
Mixed with the family dramas, is the wonder and power of the winter dress. It provides something special for each of our timeline leads. For Anna, it provides a means of transformation: “a comforting omen, a message of hope from her departed mother.” While wearing her mother’s dress, she is a more confident woman. This dress also empowers our modern day character, Jo, in another way. By working on this project, it is her chance to show the world what she can do: to gain recognition. It also offers personal freedom from the ghosts of the past. And for the present provides wonderful connections that certainly add new colour to her life.
Lauren has given us much food for thought. The story explores both the professional academic and the amateur historian: the importance of history keeping (and the handling of artefacts) and why Jo is so passionate about getting the facts right, to find the rightful owner/wearer of the winter dress and to oversee the proper care of such a valuable legacy. We acquire useful information on the process taken when centuries-old sunken ships are discovered and what happens to the goods found on them. We learn how they must be handled but also the damage modern methods can cause if someone does not know what they are doing. Such as: a centuries old fine silk garment being hosed down by ‘chemically infused tap water’ and hung ‘on a wire coat hanger to dry’.
Lauren, also, provides invigorating details of the diving experience itself, into that underwater world of hidden treasures both manmade and natural. So much lies below the surface that is both beautiful and terrifying. Which leads me to my next point: the ever important theme of nature’s healing presence in our lives (in this case the sea) and how it can help us find ourselves again when we become disconnected. Sometimes we have to get lost in its depths to revive our inner voice. Transporting us to the edge of our comfort zone may magnify our fears but also help us tackle the deadly whispers that haunt us in the night. It helps to burn away the dross, the garb that clutters and clothes our shame and disappointments. It is a naked journey we must take into the unknown sometimes but it washes our mind, clarifies our true purpose and provides healing where we need it most.
As this mysterious dress long submerged in the sea surfaces, and its many colours and design details come into view, so does the life of its wearer/owner. Along with Jo’s past life. The textured history of her parents and their unusual relationship spills across the pages of the modern thread giving us an idea of the world that has shaped this ambitious textile historian. In many ways, although worlds and years apart, Jo and Anna share similar experiences and losses which have shaped each of their lives.
This novel will grip your heart and never let go. It is filled with language as rich as the ornamental dress, stitched together with classical threads of literature and culture. Without tears and fading—art comes alive on the page through Lauren’s impressive gift of words. Both past and present timelines flow from the caring hand of a meticulous author.
The Winter Dress is an incredibly moving, passionate and powerful statement of endurance, friendship, survival and healing, that triumphs over sadness, loss, betrayal and hardship. I highly recommend this shimmering imaginative story. It contains special offerings you won’t want to miss. It is as special as the winter dress that has inspired it. 5 Perfect Stars. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Many thanks to Lauren Chater and Simon & Schuster for a review copy.
April 12, 2022
A story of grief, loss, and love, The Winter Dress connects two women across centuries, through a single gown and all that it represents to both the original owner and the one who is researching it within the modern day. Told with a dual timeline narrative, the story unfolds in pieces, all of them connected back to the dress that forms the basis of the story and offers such a fascinating insight into history. Just as she did with her previous two novels, Lauren’s research is so finely tuned, so beautifully detailed, she places you firmly into a whole other place and time. I was fascinated by how much history can be gleaned from an article of clothing; it’s certainly an area of research I would be keen to know more about.
I enjoyed this novel immensely, so much so, I would have honestly loved for there to have been more of it. Both women, Jo in the modern day, and Anna in the 17th century, had stories I became heavily invested in. There were times when I felt like I was only skimming the surface of their stories, particularly the relationships they were forming. Lauren’s writing is magnificent, thought provoking and insightful, literary in style and tone, and always engaging. I am slightly greedy for her words, which is why I wished for more. The story as it is though is brilliant, fast paced and compelling. Fans of historical fiction will relish every page.
Thanks to the publisher for the review copy.
#TheWinterDress
I enjoyed this novel immensely, so much so, I would have honestly loved for there to have been more of it. Both women, Jo in the modern day, and Anna in the 17th century, had stories I became heavily invested in. There were times when I felt like I was only skimming the surface of their stories, particularly the relationships they were forming. Lauren’s writing is magnificent, thought provoking and insightful, literary in style and tone, and always engaging. I am slightly greedy for her words, which is why I wished for more. The story as it is though is brilliant, fast paced and compelling. Fans of historical fiction will relish every page.
Thanks to the publisher for the review copy.
#TheWinterDress
May 22, 2025
This is the kind of historical fiction that I love, inspired by a quirky little real-life event. Chater has taken the 2014 discovery of a collection of 17th century artefacts off the coast of Texel and turned it into an engrossing dual-timeline story of two engaging female characters and the silk dress that unites them 400 years apart. I enjoyed both timelines equally, although I did initially feel a bit lost with the earlier one while it was being established. There's just enough history to provide context without bogging down the plot, but for me it also whet my appetite for further research about the Palmwood shipwreck (pics of the dress!), the Winter Queen and the political landscape in England at the time of Oliver Cromwell.
Recommended
Recommended
August 24, 2022
2.5 rounded up
This novel is constructed around the relatively recent true life discovery of a 17th century dress. Using the dual time line construction so common in historical fiction, we follow current day textiles researcher and academic Jo, and 17th century laundress, recently turned companion Anna.
While I enjoyed sections of this novel, and I appreciate the research undertaken, there were elements of the story that didn't quite work for me. I found the naiveté of "academic" Jo a little frustrating especially situated within the somewhat stereotypical portrayal of academia. I also found some of the writing a struggle and felt the work needed a good edit. For example "my lungs expanded as I broke through the surface. It was raining on the surface". For me this was not the compelling story I had hoped for and I found myself putting this book down, taking a break with other reading before returning to it, and as a consequence it became a bit of a slog. Then there was the degree of predictability as the two stories came together in a happy ending.
Simon Schuster what the ...? I had the opportunity to listen to this as well as read it and quickly returned to the hard copy. I enjoy audio books, especially on long car journeys, however I could not listen to the current day sections of this novel as some of the pronunciation was more than strange and sentences were frequently repeated, the mistakes having not been edited out. Glad that the audio version was from the library and I had not paid for this lazy production.
This novel is constructed around the relatively recent true life discovery of a 17th century dress. Using the dual time line construction so common in historical fiction, we follow current day textiles researcher and academic Jo, and 17th century laundress, recently turned companion Anna.
While I enjoyed sections of this novel, and I appreciate the research undertaken, there were elements of the story that didn't quite work for me. I found the naiveté of "academic" Jo a little frustrating especially situated within the somewhat stereotypical portrayal of academia. I also found some of the writing a struggle and felt the work needed a good edit. For example "my lungs expanded as I broke through the surface. It was raining on the surface". For me this was not the compelling story I had hoped for and I found myself putting this book down, taking a break with other reading before returning to it, and as a consequence it became a bit of a slog. Then there was the degree of predictability as the two stories came together in a happy ending.
Simon Schuster what the ...? I had the opportunity to listen to this as well as read it and quickly returned to the hard copy. I enjoy audio books, especially on long car journeys, however I could not listen to the current day sections of this novel as some of the pronunciation was more than strange and sentences were frequently repeated, the mistakes having not been edited out. Glad that the audio version was from the library and I had not paid for this lazy production.
June 11, 2022
What a special novel. I felt like I was right beside Jo as she worked out the significance of the dress. I also felt like I was right beside Anna as she lived with the dress. What a special novel. I am beyond grateful that there really is a dress that was discovered intact centuries after being shipwrecked. Beautiful story, beautifully told.
May 27, 2022
Not only did I receive an advance copy of this beautiful book The Winter Dress (Simon and Schuster 2022) by historical author Lauren Chater, but mine was one of only 100 special copies encased in a gorgeous heavy card book jacket that has the look and feel of an ancient treasure chest, complete with rusted hinges, barnacles and a starfish. What a fabulous way to introduce a truly intriguing novel.
Lauren Chater is known for her attention to historical detail. She conducts extensive research into the facts that her stories are based upon, and the fictional elements that she creates to thread those facts into a believable and consuming tale. The Winter Dress is inspired by a real 17th century gown found off the Dutch coast in 2014. Chater has taken the contemporary finding of this dress – rescued from the depths of a centuries’ old wreck, but remarkably intact – and alternated the present-day research and inquiries into its provenance with her beautifully imagined story of the life of the dress in around 1651. This is one of the most compelling aspects of this story: the very few facts which researchers or historians are presented with when a find of this kind occurs, and the way in which they must search documents, historical records, official notes, diaries, anecdotal evidence, material and items in collections in other museums or academic institutions – all to put together the puzzle of the origin of the item in question, in this case a silk gown, the owner or owners it might have had, the women who might have worn it and their circumstances, why it ended up at the bottom of a sea-wrecked vessel, why it has not been discovered until now, and how it has remained preserved. Then follow the questions of ownership – who owns these centuries’ old treasures? The divers that find them? The country off the coast where they are found? The origin country of the ship? So many questions. So few answers, so fiercely pursued and defended.
The contemporary section of The Winter Dress features Jo, a lecturer and historian struggling to finish an accessible creative non-fiction book from the scaffolding of her dissertation in cultural dress theory. Now living in Sydney, Jo has a complicated family history connected to the small island of Texel off the Dutch coast. When an old friend Bram contacts her to ask her advice about a find he and some friends have made while diving an ancient wreck, Jo seizes the opportunity to use the artefacts to in some way mesh with her manuscript. She is most interested in a silk gown, remarkably preserved. The connection, her history – it all seems to be serendipitously fortunate. But who she choses to work with and their ulterior motives might diverge radically from what she expects.
The historical section is written with precise and exacting detail. Textile historians and fabric/fashion experts will appreciate the ferocity and dogged determination with which Chater (and her character Jo) pursue the provenance of this dress, but it is in the historical chapters where that history really comes to life. It is the story of Anna, a woman who has also suffered a difficult upbringing and finds herself in straightened circumstances, such that she takes a position as a companion to a famous artist, Catharina. The relationships between the two women, the artist’s previous companion (mysteriously disappeared) and the artist’s brother are intense and explored with sensitivity and insight.
Chater has a skill in being able to move seamlessly back and forth between 17th century Europe and present-day Australia, weaving together the lives of these women through the tenuous and uncertain history of the found dress. A valuable possession both then and now, the chronicle of its journey uncovers so many secrets and hidden historical gems of information. I found the last quarter of the novel particularly riveting, with so many threads coming together to form a pattern I hadn’t foreseen.
Chater writes in lyrical and luscious prose and makes the most of her descriptive talents, breathing life and interest into what must have been months or years of diligent research. Using her creative abilities, she has interspersed a fictional story with the seeds of truth – the truth of an amazing discovery less than 10 years ago – and has imagined a tale worthy of those who yearn for historical detail and those who merely love a good story. Under her skilled hands, readers realise that the past and the present are not so distant from each other; that women then and women now share similar hopes, desires, dreams, fears and ambitions.
Lauren Chater is known for her attention to historical detail. She conducts extensive research into the facts that her stories are based upon, and the fictional elements that she creates to thread those facts into a believable and consuming tale. The Winter Dress is inspired by a real 17th century gown found off the Dutch coast in 2014. Chater has taken the contemporary finding of this dress – rescued from the depths of a centuries’ old wreck, but remarkably intact – and alternated the present-day research and inquiries into its provenance with her beautifully imagined story of the life of the dress in around 1651. This is one of the most compelling aspects of this story: the very few facts which researchers or historians are presented with when a find of this kind occurs, and the way in which they must search documents, historical records, official notes, diaries, anecdotal evidence, material and items in collections in other museums or academic institutions – all to put together the puzzle of the origin of the item in question, in this case a silk gown, the owner or owners it might have had, the women who might have worn it and their circumstances, why it ended up at the bottom of a sea-wrecked vessel, why it has not been discovered until now, and how it has remained preserved. Then follow the questions of ownership – who owns these centuries’ old treasures? The divers that find them? The country off the coast where they are found? The origin country of the ship? So many questions. So few answers, so fiercely pursued and defended.
The contemporary section of The Winter Dress features Jo, a lecturer and historian struggling to finish an accessible creative non-fiction book from the scaffolding of her dissertation in cultural dress theory. Now living in Sydney, Jo has a complicated family history connected to the small island of Texel off the Dutch coast. When an old friend Bram contacts her to ask her advice about a find he and some friends have made while diving an ancient wreck, Jo seizes the opportunity to use the artefacts to in some way mesh with her manuscript. She is most interested in a silk gown, remarkably preserved. The connection, her history – it all seems to be serendipitously fortunate. But who she choses to work with and their ulterior motives might diverge radically from what she expects.
The historical section is written with precise and exacting detail. Textile historians and fabric/fashion experts will appreciate the ferocity and dogged determination with which Chater (and her character Jo) pursue the provenance of this dress, but it is in the historical chapters where that history really comes to life. It is the story of Anna, a woman who has also suffered a difficult upbringing and finds herself in straightened circumstances, such that she takes a position as a companion to a famous artist, Catharina. The relationships between the two women, the artist’s previous companion (mysteriously disappeared) and the artist’s brother are intense and explored with sensitivity and insight.
Chater has a skill in being able to move seamlessly back and forth between 17th century Europe and present-day Australia, weaving together the lives of these women through the tenuous and uncertain history of the found dress. A valuable possession both then and now, the chronicle of its journey uncovers so many secrets and hidden historical gems of information. I found the last quarter of the novel particularly riveting, with so many threads coming together to form a pattern I hadn’t foreseen.
Chater writes in lyrical and luscious prose and makes the most of her descriptive talents, breathing life and interest into what must have been months or years of diligent research. Using her creative abilities, she has interspersed a fictional story with the seeds of truth – the truth of an amazing discovery less than 10 years ago – and has imagined a tale worthy of those who yearn for historical detail and those who merely love a good story. Under her skilled hands, readers realise that the past and the present are not so distant from each other; that women then and women now share similar hopes, desires, dreams, fears and ambitions.
November 4, 2022
The book was bought to my attention by my lovely friend Wendy and I very much enjoyed buddy reading this with her and Janet. I was a little late getting to the book but the ladies were patient with me and we had a lovely little chat as we went along.
I was instantly fascinated with the fact that this book was based on real events. In 2014 the 17th century dress was in fact retrieved from a sunken shipwreck and it can now be seen in a museum in Texel. Lauren Chater was also drawn to this story and decided to weave the fact and the fiction, something she does beautifully.
Flicking between the past and the present day we follow Jo and Anna’s story. I immediately felt so much compassion for Anna and the life she was leading. Through circumstances out of her control she found herself in a new country with no family or friends to comfort her. I enjoyed seeing how she was settling into her new life and the changes between herself and Catharina. Jo on the other hand felt a lot colder in comparison to Anna. Once you learn more about Jo you can understand the wall she has put up and why she finds it hard to connect with people. I felt sad for her at times, especially where Liam was concerned but felt she had evolved more by the end of the story.
This was a slow burn read, seeped in history and rich in detail, that I took my time to enjoy. The underwater scenes had my heart in my throat and confirmed that deep sea diving isn’t for me but Texel and the museum are definitely on my list of places to visit.
I was instantly fascinated with the fact that this book was based on real events. In 2014 the 17th century dress was in fact retrieved from a sunken shipwreck and it can now be seen in a museum in Texel. Lauren Chater was also drawn to this story and decided to weave the fact and the fiction, something she does beautifully.
Flicking between the past and the present day we follow Jo and Anna’s story. I immediately felt so much compassion for Anna and the life she was leading. Through circumstances out of her control she found herself in a new country with no family or friends to comfort her. I enjoyed seeing how she was settling into her new life and the changes between herself and Catharina. Jo on the other hand felt a lot colder in comparison to Anna. Once you learn more about Jo you can understand the wall she has put up and why she finds it hard to connect with people. I felt sad for her at times, especially where Liam was concerned but felt she had evolved more by the end of the story.
This was a slow burn read, seeped in history and rich in detail, that I took my time to enjoy. The underwater scenes had my heart in my throat and confirmed that deep sea diving isn’t for me but Texel and the museum are definitely on my list of places to visit.
June 27, 2022
An enjoyable if somewhat formulaic historical fiction novel about a true event of recent times.
February 8, 2022
The Winter Dress – Lauren Chater
I was given an advanced copy of this story by the publisher in order to provide an honest review.
Lauren Chater is an Australian author who writes historical fiction novels. She has also written The Lace Weaver and Gulliver’s Wife. She has made appearances at a few writer festivals and is currently completing a Masters of Cultural Heritage through Deakin University.
Texel is a small Dutch island, north of Amsterdam and that is where this story starts. Texel and a beautiful gold silk dress. Anna and her sister have fallen on hard times after the passing of their father. The wealth, land and all the fine things they previously enjoyed has disappeared and they now work as simply laundry maids.
But when Anna didn’t think her life could get any worse, her sister dies leaving Anna all alone in the world. Yet she is a survivor and manages to secure a position as a companion to an artist – Catharina van Shurman, hired by her brother Crispijn. To help restore the good spirits after Catharina’s loss of a dear friend. The one memento of her old life that she takes with her is her mother’s gold silk dress.
Life is good for Anna for a time, until tragedy strikes again and Anna is lost to all.
In present day Jo Baaker is a textile historian with a painful history of her past life in Texel. Yet she is drawn back there by her friends’ discovery of a shipwreck just off the coast, where they uncovered a beautiful silk dress. Jo is determined to protect the dress and discover its secrets, who owned it and what their life was like.
Drawn into the mystery of the dress, Jo doesn’t realise that she would be embarking on a personal journey of her own. One that is long overdue and could bring the closure she doesn’t realise she even needs.
“The Winter Dress” is a tale as beautiful as the dress that inspired it (yes, the story is based on an actual dress that was retrieved from a shipwreck off the Texel coast back in 2018). Both Anna and Jo had such sad and tragic lives, it was interesting to see the way it was mirrored by the author in the different time lines. Seemingly running alongside and then merging with one another. I don’t want to give away the ending but I really loved it and think it suited the story perfectly. This story was a very beautiful and satisfying read.
I was given an advanced copy of this story by the publisher in order to provide an honest review.
Lauren Chater is an Australian author who writes historical fiction novels. She has also written The Lace Weaver and Gulliver’s Wife. She has made appearances at a few writer festivals and is currently completing a Masters of Cultural Heritage through Deakin University.
Texel is a small Dutch island, north of Amsterdam and that is where this story starts. Texel and a beautiful gold silk dress. Anna and her sister have fallen on hard times after the passing of their father. The wealth, land and all the fine things they previously enjoyed has disappeared and they now work as simply laundry maids.
But when Anna didn’t think her life could get any worse, her sister dies leaving Anna all alone in the world. Yet she is a survivor and manages to secure a position as a companion to an artist – Catharina van Shurman, hired by her brother Crispijn. To help restore the good spirits after Catharina’s loss of a dear friend. The one memento of her old life that she takes with her is her mother’s gold silk dress.
Life is good for Anna for a time, until tragedy strikes again and Anna is lost to all.
In present day Jo Baaker is a textile historian with a painful history of her past life in Texel. Yet she is drawn back there by her friends’ discovery of a shipwreck just off the coast, where they uncovered a beautiful silk dress. Jo is determined to protect the dress and discover its secrets, who owned it and what their life was like.
Drawn into the mystery of the dress, Jo doesn’t realise that she would be embarking on a personal journey of her own. One that is long overdue and could bring the closure she doesn’t realise she even needs.
“The Winter Dress” is a tale as beautiful as the dress that inspired it (yes, the story is based on an actual dress that was retrieved from a shipwreck off the Texel coast back in 2018). Both Anna and Jo had such sad and tragic lives, it was interesting to see the way it was mirrored by the author in the different time lines. Seemingly running alongside and then merging with one another. I don’t want to give away the ending but I really loved it and think it suited the story perfectly. This story was a very beautiful and satisfying read.
June 19, 2022
I read the The Winter Dress in record time – it was so immersive and rich in detail, taking me to modern-day Texel where Jo Bakker searches for clues about a 17th century dress, and to the Golden Age in Holland where Anna Tesseltje, all alone in the world, finds a coveted position as ladies’ companion to artist Catharina van Shurman. I was moved by Anna’s fate, rushing through the pages to discover what befell her, but at the same time I learnt about subjects like diving and the ruthless competition between academics in revealing historical mysteries to the world. The fact that this dress exists makes the narrative even more compelling. Placing the characters of Anna and Catharina together was a fascinating way to explore the dynamics of social status in the republic. Catharina’s talent, wealth and the protection of her brother insulate her from dangers faced by women like Anna.
Go and add this book to the top of your reading list – it’s captivating and beautiful.
Go and add this book to the top of your reading list – it’s captivating and beautiful.
May 11, 2022
I attended the book launch for The Winter Dress, such a pleasure. It was launched by Meg Keneally, and Lauren Chater told us the story behind the book - which is just fascinating. It's based on the true story of the discovery of a silk dress hundreds of year old, rescued by divers from a ship wreck off the coast of Texel. It's astonishing the dress survived, and also electrifying. No wonder Lauren Chater was inspired to write a story from that story! With the twin time lines from Holland in the 1650s and today in Australia, it's just fabulous to read. The last hundred pages were absolutely un-put-downable; the ending wonderful and some good twists I didn't expect. The perfect book to read on a wet, cool day here.
May 17, 2022
I didn’t get into this book. Kept forgetting who various characters were, and also kept checking to see how many pages until I’d finish.
There were a lot of implausible events, and sometimes the story jumped forwards several months between paragraphs, without any warning or even a double spaced line between the paragraphs to indicate there was a large time gap.
Could have been a great story, but it just didn’t work for me.
There were a lot of implausible events, and sometimes the story jumped forwards several months between paragraphs, without any warning or even a double spaced line between the paragraphs to indicate there was a large time gap.
Could have been a great story, but it just didn’t work for me.
July 8, 2022
I was very interested in the historical part of this novel but thought the present-day story detracted from that. Overall disappointing but I would like to see the dress.
October 22, 2022
A beautiful and evocative story, written along a dual timeline, 1651 and the present set in 2019.
The author has based the book on the real life finding of a dress under similar circumstances, then she has weaved a believable and compelling back story to suggest how the dress could have ended up in a shipwreck. Truly fascinating and I would love to go and see the original dress.
I thoroughly enjoyed both timelines.
The 1651 timeline tells the story of Anna, who’s father had been a wealthy shipping merchant but his wealth and belongings were lost after his death. After the death of her sister, when Anna was only 19, she was left to fend for herself as she had no other relatives. Luckily, she was offered the opportunity of working as a companion to a well known artist who was suffering from depression.
In the current timeline Jo, a textiles historian, also lost her parents at a young age and went to live with her Aunt in Sydney. She is tempted back to her childhood home when her old friend sends her a photo of a beautiful dress which he has found in a shipwreck just off the island of Texel which is not far from the Dutch mainland. She is so excited to see the dress in real life and also to help preserve it as quickly as possible. She takes the first flight out if Sydney and heads to Texel to begin her investigation of the possible origin of the dress.
Beautifully written, amazing descriptions putting the reader at the centre of the action, and I was completely gripped from the author’s note at the beginning right to the last page.
If you are a fan of historical fiction and a good dual timeline, or have an interest in the history of clothes and how they are preserved, this is for you.
The author has based the book on the real life finding of a dress under similar circumstances, then she has weaved a believable and compelling back story to suggest how the dress could have ended up in a shipwreck. Truly fascinating and I would love to go and see the original dress.
I thoroughly enjoyed both timelines.
The 1651 timeline tells the story of Anna, who’s father had been a wealthy shipping merchant but his wealth and belongings were lost after his death. After the death of her sister, when Anna was only 19, she was left to fend for herself as she had no other relatives. Luckily, she was offered the opportunity of working as a companion to a well known artist who was suffering from depression.
In the current timeline Jo, a textiles historian, also lost her parents at a young age and went to live with her Aunt in Sydney. She is tempted back to her childhood home when her old friend sends her a photo of a beautiful dress which he has found in a shipwreck just off the island of Texel which is not far from the Dutch mainland. She is so excited to see the dress in real life and also to help preserve it as quickly as possible. She takes the first flight out if Sydney and heads to Texel to begin her investigation of the possible origin of the dress.
Beautifully written, amazing descriptions putting the reader at the centre of the action, and I was completely gripped from the author’s note at the beginning right to the last page.
If you are a fan of historical fiction and a good dual timeline, or have an interest in the history of clothes and how they are preserved, this is for you.
November 3, 2022
3 stars
May 30, 2022
the winter dress follows two characters: jo and anna. jo is a modern day textile historian (isn’t that a cool profession??), and anna a 17th century woman. the whole story is connected through a silk dress that anna owns and ends up preserved through a shipwreck.
i’ve always been a fan of connecting storylines. i prefer stories like this, where there’s only two people (otherwise i find it gets confusing). anna owns and occasionally wears a silk dress. jo and a team of divers discover the dress amongst a shipwreck, and jo takes it upon herself to discover as much about anna as she could.
both anna and jo were extremely different. anna was soft and delicate, whereas jo was the opposite. despite their differences, i found i loved both women. they were interesting and brought a life to the story.
the way lauren chater wrote this book was really well done. from the connections to the storytelling itself. *chef’s kiss* i absolutely couldn’t recommend this book enough.
p.s. the dress mentioned in this book is real (which really surprised me!). although not linked to anna. anna’s friend, catharina van shurman, sounds a lot like anna maria van schurman (a real woman, who was an artist!). small things like this make a book 100% more interesting to me.
i’ve always been a fan of connecting storylines. i prefer stories like this, where there’s only two people (otherwise i find it gets confusing). anna owns and occasionally wears a silk dress. jo and a team of divers discover the dress amongst a shipwreck, and jo takes it upon herself to discover as much about anna as she could.
both anna and jo were extremely different. anna was soft and delicate, whereas jo was the opposite. despite their differences, i found i loved both women. they were interesting and brought a life to the story.
the way lauren chater wrote this book was really well done. from the connections to the storytelling itself. *chef’s kiss* i absolutely couldn’t recommend this book enough.
p.s. the dress mentioned in this book is real (which really surprised me!). although not linked to anna. anna’s friend, catharina van shurman, sounds a lot like anna maria van schurman (a real woman, who was an artist!). small things like this make a book 100% more interesting to me.
November 2, 2022
A present day academic researches a historic object from an earlier period, a touch of feminism, a love story. Despite the interesting true events on which this is based I felt like I'd read this story line before. Some of the descriptive writing was tedious and large chunks of research were poorly integrated. Two stars for an intriguing premise.
July 31, 2022
This was an interesting story but it got bogged down in parts.
September 6, 2022
You do not need a time machine when you have good authors that can take you back through time and delve into a historical period so well and adorn it with so much substance.
A discovery and finding it’s truth make for an enthralling read.
Jo is originally from the Dutch Island of Texel but lives with her Aunt in Sydney.
As a textile historian she is enticed back to her homeland when a 17th century dress is retrieved from a sunken boat.
The intrigue of who wore and owned it part of the process.
Giving an insight into the period and piecing together history.
Anna was the owner and was a lady’s companion to a successful artist.
A loyal friendship ensued which added to the mystery why she left the household.
Life and it’s curb balls often curtail hopes but can sometimes expose new opportunities.
Centuries later Jo has to deal with her own past as she works out Anna’s.
Reading and history are two passions I indulge in, a fascination in how people lived and how they got on with their lives, a drawcard for me.
I had an awareness of the island as I have Texel sheep, this read gave me more of dimensional and authentic feel for Texel.
Two strong female lead characters set the tone, a stunning cover sends out the invite to read and two interesting parallel stories seal the deal.
A discovery and finding it’s truth make for an enthralling read.
Jo is originally from the Dutch Island of Texel but lives with her Aunt in Sydney.
As a textile historian she is enticed back to her homeland when a 17th century dress is retrieved from a sunken boat.
The intrigue of who wore and owned it part of the process.
Giving an insight into the period and piecing together history.
Anna was the owner and was a lady’s companion to a successful artist.
A loyal friendship ensued which added to the mystery why she left the household.
Life and it’s curb balls often curtail hopes but can sometimes expose new opportunities.
Centuries later Jo has to deal with her own past as she works out Anna’s.
Reading and history are two passions I indulge in, a fascination in how people lived and how they got on with their lives, a drawcard for me.
I had an awareness of the island as I have Texel sheep, this read gave me more of dimensional and authentic feel for Texel.
Two strong female lead characters set the tone, a stunning cover sends out the invite to read and two interesting parallel stories seal the deal.
May 19, 2022
The Winter Dress by Lauren Chater is a beautiful historical fiction read set on the small Dutch Island of Texel.
Jo Baaker is a textile historian and investigates the findings of a 17th century silk dress.
The silk dress is found by divers from a sunken shipwreck.
The story weaves an unusual tapestry of events into the research of who wore the dress in days gone by in search of the original owner.
Jo finds Anna Tesseltje an Amsterdam laundress who served the artist, Catherina van Shurman.
All the clues lie in the dress and a painting from the past.
This is a really beautiful Winter read 📚 to be devoured by everyone.
There's beauty in the gold and within the sea where treasures can be found.
I absolutely loved The Winter Dress by Lauren Chater and urge everyone to read it this Winter to brighten up and add a 'touch of gold' to a dull Winter's Day.
Jo Baaker is a textile historian and investigates the findings of a 17th century silk dress.
The silk dress is found by divers from a sunken shipwreck.
The story weaves an unusual tapestry of events into the research of who wore the dress in days gone by in search of the original owner.
Jo finds Anna Tesseltje an Amsterdam laundress who served the artist, Catherina van Shurman.
All the clues lie in the dress and a painting from the past.
This is a really beautiful Winter read 📚 to be devoured by everyone.
There's beauty in the gold and within the sea where treasures can be found.
I absolutely loved The Winter Dress by Lauren Chater and urge everyone to read it this Winter to brighten up and add a 'touch of gold' to a dull Winter's Day.
August 5, 2022
The story of The Winter Dress is as lush as the silk dress that gives the novel its name. The discovery in a wrecked ship in Holland of a remarkably preserved 17th-century silk dress is the catalyst for this dual-timeline novel by Australian author, Lauren Chater.
The novel weaves the stories of the textile historian who investigates its provenance with the poor laundress who was its incongruous owner. Both women are reconciling past griefs. Both need to thwart the machinations of arrogant men. Each has a special affinity and love for textiles.
The research that has gone into this novel is prodigious and wide-ranging. Diving, textile preservation, shipwrecks, 17th-century Dutch and English politics, painting, the Dutch landscape... the list is vast. It is all woven into an emotionally satisfying and compelling mystery about two heroines looking for safe harbour at last.
The novel weaves the stories of the textile historian who investigates its provenance with the poor laundress who was its incongruous owner. Both women are reconciling past griefs. Both need to thwart the machinations of arrogant men. Each has a special affinity and love for textiles.
The research that has gone into this novel is prodigious and wide-ranging. Diving, textile preservation, shipwrecks, 17th-century Dutch and English politics, painting, the Dutch landscape... the list is vast. It is all woven into an emotionally satisfying and compelling mystery about two heroines looking for safe harbour at last.
August 14, 2024
After visiting Texel and seeing the dress for real and seeing the documentary on television about it I was intrigued about who the dress belonged to. And this writer made a nice story about what it could have been. Very nice reading.
July 23, 2022
Love this book !!
September 24, 2025
3.5 ⭐️
October 23, 2022
I adored this book, dual timelines, history and interesting characters, what’s not too love!
I loved imagining what the dress would look like, I think Anna’s parts were my favourite and I loved reading more about Catharina and Holland’s history.
A must for historical fiction and I’m looking forward to reading more by the author
I loved imagining what the dress would look like, I think Anna’s parts were my favourite and I loved reading more about Catharina and Holland’s history.
A must for historical fiction and I’m looking forward to reading more by the author
February 8, 2023
Good paced storyline, even if I found the chapters a bit long at times. I enjoyed both storylines gently complementing one another, and thought the ending fit well.
April 18, 2025
Very much wanted to love this book, great subject, connection to real material, but whether it is my state of mind or the book I’m unsure, but it was a slog to get through.
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