“On such nights (as I knew from work we had done a few years ago in Pennsylvania, using specialized radar) migrants may pass at a rate of a couple million an hour. It is arguably the world’s greatest natural spectacle, and a nearly universal one, playing out twice a year over every landmass except Antarctica (where the migrant penguins shamble on foot), but one hidden from our sight by the anonymity of darkness. We sleep, unaware of the marvel above our heads.”
“Bird migration is a shadow of what it once was, but that shadow is still mighty enough to leave us slack-jawed and awestruck, at the right time and in the right place. There are still billions of migratory birds. Although the hour is late at least, as Pete Marra said, we know the score. And that includes the realization that each small bird flying north through the Canadian woods carries with it the echoes of the previous winter, where conditions in tropical lands thousands of miles away and many months earlier may predestine it for success or failure—an aspect of migration that is only now coming into focus, and providing yet another critical element in our understanding of how to keep the billions aloft, and safe.”
*****
I have read other works from this author and really enjoyed them; this one had great parts but it was slogging through a lot of technical information that detracted from the book. If he wrote one more time, we never knew! We didn’t have nano technology! I caught this bird and banded it with a tag and a geolocator! We didn’t know because we didn’t have the technology! Look at this tiny geolocator! They are new!
I am an expert all of the sudden in editing, because I would have edited differently and edited out the same point over and over and over again. I also wonder if I felt bad for these poor birds constantly being messed with; so it is the ultimate of privilege to be in love with the knowledge of their lives, but not the way we have to get that knowledge. Bias. My lens is so much clearer on my biases, on our biases. I also was taken aback by the use of Old World and New World as descriptors. The New World was only new to the white Europeans, so it is not in favor; but I could not find anything on line with any explication, so I am mentioning it, but letting it go.
But. I still am flying over the oceans and seas with the billions of birds he described. I am inspired by all the people who are working hard to protect habitat for migrating birds. I was recently in the Caribbean and was on the lookout for magnificent frigatebirds; that was the one bird I was dying to see. I did see one; and I felt like a birder even though I am not; and I was so proud when I saw something different than the regular gulls I had been seeing, high up in the sky framed by palm trees on earth with me. I wasn’t sure it was what I thought it was; but it was. I was. They don’t migrate long distances, but they are in the book for their extensive time on the wing finding food.
I think the power of the book is the moments of awe as you read that gray cheeks thrushes weigh 30 grams and some cross the 600 miles of the Gulf of Mexico and some follow Florida and then the Caribbean; in winter they disappear in the forest of the northern South America, but they don’t know much after that. The author and scientists were in Denali to band them and try to learn more. There were several maps showing the vastness of some of the different migrations and I stared at them for a long time, just feeling that wind and that sky and that land and ocean. Or that sooty shearwaters can travel over 46,000 miles a year; Arctic terns 57,000 miles a year. That the longest non stop migration is from the godwits from Alaska to New Zealand in eight or nine days of uninterrupted flight.
Or how long do you think they might migrate for? A few weeks? 2 weeks here, 2 weeks there, stopovers on the way? Common swifts can fly without stopping for 10 months. 10 months! Or that Wilson’s storm-Peterson are the most wide ranging (found in every major ocean, sea, adn gulf, except northern Pacific) and are very abundant, but the 1.5 billion of the red-billed quela (and African finch) are the most plentiful.”
That is what you bring with you as you walk along your days.
****
“It now appears that birds may visualize the earth’s magnetic field through a form of quantum entanglement, as wavelengths of blue light strike a migratory bird’s eye, exciting the entangled electrons in a chemical called cryptochrome. The energy from an incoming photon splits an entangled pair of electrons, knocking one into an adjacent cryptochrome molecule—yet the two particles remain entangled. Microsecond by microsecond, this palette of varying chemical signals, spread across countless entangled pairs of electrons, apparently builds a map in the bird’s eye of the geomagnetic fields through which it is traveling.”
“The gray-cheeked thrush was an utterly ordinary, extraordinary bird—as is every migrant that makes the leap into the void, guided by instinct, shaped by millions of generations of toil and savage selection, crossing the vaults of space through dangers we cannot comprehend, by lucky chance and near-calamity and great endurance, on the strength of its own muscle and wings. For eons uncounted, that has always been enough. But no longer. Now their future, for good or ill, lies in our hands.”
The spoon-billed sandpiper is the poster child for conservation in China, on the shores of the Yellow Sea, and that chapter (Spoonies) was one of the best. 70,000 of these birds disappeared when South Korea built a 21 mile long seewall. 70,000 creatures, gone. If you don’t care about birds, conservation, the planet, etc., can you care that 70,000 creatures are gone just like that? That that means something is wrong, if we can’t share our planet, design our technology, innovate! Something different?
“The Yellow Sea, especially on the Chinese side and in the northern gulf known as Bohai Bay or the Bohai Sea, is exceptionally shallow; during the past ice age, when global sea levels were hundreds of feet lower, it was largely dry land, with the channel of the Yangtze River running through the middle. The combination of a shallow coastal margin and a tidal range that during certain lunar phases may exceed 25 or 30 feet means that when the tide goes out, it goes out—for miles and miles and miles, exposing the most expansive natural mudflats in the world… The Yangtze alone now has some 50,000 dams along its main stem and tributaries, which had already reduced the movement of sediment into the sea by about 90 percent even before the controversial Three Gorges Dam.”
Along with spoonies, red knots use this mudflat as a stopover and have a unique sixth sense to find clams under the mud; their bill causes waves in the water and thud off the clams and a special organ on the beak can detect them. Creatures. Another risk to the mudflat is smooth cordgrass which a North American invasive that chokes out the natural flora.
“Saving the coast for birds would also save it for humans; almost everywhere that natural mudflats remain in Asia, shorebirds share them with people, millions of whom in China alone depend on the flats for collecting crabs or shellfish, or as nurseries for finfish that mature farther out to sea.”
“A white cardboard shipping crate banged up against my shin; moving it, I saw that it was emblazoned with the name and logo of a Massachusetts seafood company, to which the harvested clams were destined. Zhang scowled, pushing the crate with his toe. “We are only 30 kilometers from the big chemical factories up the coast—all that pollution washes into the Yellow Sea. But these guys don’t care—they’re not going to eat them, they figure they can eat the clams in the United States.”
“Migratory birds can grow and jettison their internal organs on an as-needed basis, bolster their flight performance by juicing on naturally occurring performance-enhancing drugs, and enjoy perfect health despite seasonally exhibiting all the signs of morbid obesity, diabetes, and looming heart disease. A migrating bird can put alternating halves of its brain to sleep while flying for days, weeks, or even months on end, and when forced to remain fully awake has evolved defenses against the effects of sleep deprivation; in fact, birds actually seem to get mentally sharper under such conditions, the envy of any human slogging through the day after a poor night’s sleep. If all that isn’t sci-fi enough, we now know that they navigate using a form of quantum mechanics that made even Einstein queasy.”
______________________________
“The world was precisely equal halves of gray, divided by the flat line of the horizon—the smoky silver of an overcast sky, unmarked and smooth, and the darker, mottled granite and charcoal of a mudflat that stretched to every side, paper-thin sheets of water lying on its surface reflecting the clouds or ruffled by the breeze. There was a salty sharpness in the air, but the ocean was invisible many, many miles to our east. When the tide turned, the water would surge back across these flats, advancing faster than a person could easily move, but for now the Yellow Sea was only a rumor, carried on a damp and chilly wind.”
“The flocks came from the south, dense layers of small bodies that undulated and folded into themselves, creating sheets, splitting into tendrils, forming separate tributaries that reunited into great rivers of wings, all moving with tremendous speed. The first washed over and around us within seconds, thousands of small, fleet bodies sweeping past in a rush of thin, whispery sound very different—higher, more urgent—than the wind. I spun with them, turning on my heel like a weathervane buffeted by a changing gust, but they were already past me, receding, even as the next waves flashed to my right and left. Most were red-necked stints, the common, sparrow-sized “peep” sandpipers of Asia that are very much the size and shape of the semipalmated sandpipers I’m familiar with from home, but with a deep chestnut wash over the head and throat in this, their breeding plumage. Some of the birds were dunlin, with curved bills and black bellies, or ruddy turnstones, piebald with patches of rust and black and white like an Italian harlequin.”
********
“Many godwits make a 7,200-mile nonstop flight each autumn from western Alaska to New Zealand, a journey that takes them eight or nine days of uninterrupted flight—the longest nonstop migration known, exercising at the same metabolic rate as a human running endless four-minute miles. The godwits time their departure from Alaska with the passage of autumn gales, when they get a boost from powerful tail winds speeding them along the first 500 to 1,000 miles of their journey across the Pacific. Along the way, they must overcome extreme dehydration and sleep deprivation, to say nothing of the physical exhaustion that must come from pumping their wings millions of times without the slightest pause. With time, however, they come within range of more tail winds, the austral westerlies, which hurry them along…On the way back, the godwits depart to the northwest, leaving New Zealand by early April and crossing more than 6,000 miles of the western Pacific to China and the Koreas in another uninterrupted eight- or nine-day flight. Landing, they repeat the cycle of organ regrowth and gluttony yet a third time before making their final, roughly five-day ocean crossing of only—only!—about 4,000 miles back to Alaska.”
“The metaphor of marathon running is inadequate to fully capture the magnitude of long-distance migratory flight of birds. In some respects a journey to the moon seems more appropriate.”
“I’ve watched newly arrived bar-tailed godwits along the Keoklevik River in remote western Alaska—a flat, treeless, waterlogged land not far from the Bering Sea, part of the 19-million-acre Yukon Delta National Wildlife Refuge, where the incessant wind lashes beds of lush grasses and sedges along meandering river channels, and scours the slightly higher benches and ridges of spongy, flower-spangled tundra. Having just completed an 18,000-mile roundtrip—something a godwit may repeat 25 or 30 times in its long life—the birds waste little time.
I have tried to put myself into the head of a juvenile godwit, as the land falls away behind it for the first time and the Pacific, vast and deadly, rolls for days beneath its laboring wings. Is there doubt, deep in the long nights as the unfamiliar stars of the Southern Hemisphere wheel overhead? Is there fear? Or does the young godwit feel only certainty, a sense that it is doing merely what it must at this moment, drawn toward some unseen place by a biological magnetism? There is no answer for me in the dark brown eyes of the female, sitting quietly on her nest.
Coastal wetlands like those Eastern Shore tidal marshes, the thin rim of habitat on which so many species, especially migrant shorebirds, depend, are at grave risk from sea level rise. As oceans have climbed in the past, wetlands have been able to move inland in concert with the increasing depth. But today, in most areas, development along the coast will wall off any possibility of these ecosystems migrating inland, even assuming the marshes can keep up with the pace of rising water.”
“But the same geography that makes this crooked finger of barrier islands so vulnerable to hurricanes and tropical storms also makes it a mecca for anyone interested in seabird migration. For it is here, especially at the far southern end of the Outer Banks near the village of Hatteras, that the edge of the continental shelf and the deep water beyond come closest to dry land, and the sweep of the Gulf Stream is most easily accessible from shore. From here is the shortest route to an utterly different world, that of the pelagic migrants—the birds that, much as those European swifts that spend eight or nine months a year on the wing, have all but completely severed their connections with dry land.”
“About two-and-a-half hours after we left the dock, though, the seas calmed dramatically—we had crossed the shelf break and were into the Gulf Stream. One by one, we cautiously left the cabin and blinked in the brightening sun, which was breaking through as we left the clouds behind us. I felt a little like Dorothy stepping out of her black-and-white tornado into a technicolor Oz. The water was a vivid, clear cerulean blue, dramatically different from the dark, grayish inshore seas, and spangled with long wind-ordered rafts of golden sargassum, the floating seaweed of tropical oceans, which formed intensely yellow lines stretching for miles.”
“As the name suggests, the Tahiti petrel breeds on the islands of the southwest Pacific like the Marquesas, the Society Islands, and French Polynesia, coming to shore to lay eggs in burrows dug beneath rain forests. It has been recorded on a few occasions off Hawaii, and is rare along the Pacific coast of Baja Mexico and Costa Rica. Not only had it never been seen off North Carolina, but none had ever been recorded within hailing distance of the entire freaking Atlantic Ocean. “Someone said they think maybe it got blown across Panama by a storm,” said Smith, but how a Pacific seabird would end up in the wrong ocean is really anyone’s guess. Or even whether the Atlantic is, in fact, the “wrong” ocean for it at all. The Atlantic covers 41 million square miles, and the number of people out on it who would (first) bother to notice a rare petrel and (second) be able to identify it are ridiculously, vanishingly small.”
“Pelagic seabirds like petrels or albatrosses (tubenose groups) travel farther annually than any other group of migrants, crossing many tens of thousands of wind-raked miles of ocean every year. Black-capped petrels are an endangered species, but for much of the twentieth century they were little more than a cipher. They once nested abundantly on half a dozen islands in the Caribbean, where Spanish-speaking colonists called them diablotíns, little devils… By the middle of the nineteenth century, though, they appeared to be extinct, done in by hunting and introduced predators; the only hint that they survived was occasional reports at sea of petrels fitting their description. Not until 1963 were a handful discovered nesting in the highlands of Hispaniola; the entire population today is likely fewer than 2,000m and Aldo found in Dominica, where despite many previous searches it had last been seen in 1862, and they may nest as well on Cuba and Jamaica. The only other seabird that bests it for both rarity and Lazarus tendencies—the Bermuda petrel or cahow, which had been thought extinct since the mid-1600s, and which today still numbers fewer than 120 pairs.”
“As they soar effortlessly on the perpetual sea wind, distance is essentially meaningless to the tubenoses, whose travels connect incredibly distant pockets of tremendously abundant food. A wandering albatross, with 11-foot-wide wings the largest of them all, may during its so-called “sabbatical year” between biennial breeding attempts fly 74,000 miles, circumnavigating Antarctica two or three times without ever seeing land, returning once every year or two to land—almost always on some flyspeck island or remote archipelago insulated from predators by distance from any mainland—where they spend the bare minimum required by biology to lay an egg (always just one) and raise a chick. They compensate for this extremely low reproductive rate by living a long time; the oldest known wild bird of any species is a Laysan albatross named Wisdom, banded in 1956 as an adult and, at the age of at least 69, still returns.”
“Gough is often called the greatest seabird island in the world, with more than 5 million nesting pairs in all, including the endemic (and critically endangered) Tristan albatross, and the surpassingly lovely sooty albatross, a bird the color of wood smoke, its eyes rimmed with white and a slender yellow streak that curves up like a shy smile along each side of its dark bill. The numbers are staggering—2 million pairs of prions (a type of small, largely nonmigratory petrel) nest on Gough, including a million McGillivary’s prions, between 1 million and 1.5 million pairs of Atlantic petrels, a million pairs of great shearwaters, which during the austral winter migrate north, foraging the North Atlantic.”
“Sooty shearwaters are among the most abundant seabirds in the world, and the only shearwater known to occupy both the Atlantic and Pacific basins. Audubon’s shearwater, one of the smaller species in that group, whizzed past the bow, its willow-leaf wingtips slicing the surface of the sea as it glided and turned, then plunged headfirst into the floating bright yellow-brown mats of sargassum to catch—well, no one is quite sure what this species of seabird eats, though one was once observed eating bits of squid vomited up by dolphinfish, and it is presumed to mostly hunt for fish, squid…”
“Or maybe it was … reverence? Yes, that was it; reverence for a creature that, despite every obstacle we as a species have placed in its path, continues to hold faith with the wind and the far horizon, with its genes and with the seasons. Reverence for an endurance and tenacity I cannot match nor fully comprehend, but which leaves me breathless when I am confronted with it. Reverence for this extraordinary bird and the billions more like it, which by obeying their ancient rhythms knit up the scattered and beleaguered wild places of the world into a seamless whole through the simple act of flight. May it always be so. “