Vestoj Issue #10: On Doubt

by Vestoj: The Journal of Sartorial Matters

Vestoj ‘On Doubt’ examines the crippling kind of doubt, and the kind that propels us forward and the fact that we can’t know which is which. When it comes to fashion specifically, we explore who and what we have faith in and why. What keeps us from doubting the system, and if we did, would it crumble? The issue looks at the disillusion that seems so prevalent in the industry now, and the great apprehension about how to best move forward. And, on a smaller scale – the shopping experience. Do I like it? Do I need it? Can I afford it? Is it ‘me’?

215 pages, Paperback

Published October 1, 2021

Reviews

[Klara · Rating 4 out of 5]

Being 100 pages in I was thinking that this issue might have missed its mark. I kept thinking about doubt one might feel about their gender identity, cultural and ethnic belonging, and future of fashion in general. These were all addressed throughout the book, and some of these themes even have whole issues dedicated to them. Nonetheless, I felt that certain topics deserved more depth. 'Doubt' has so much potential, especially considering current economic, social and environmental climate. I really, really wish students, graduates, or young designers would have been asked for their input, because I cannot think of anyone who is in more doubt about the future of fashion than these people (yes, that does include me unfortunately). Little job prospects crushed down by pandemic, moral dilemmas, questioning the choice of our chosen field... these are big questions that go though our heads uninterruptedly. The interviews were great in that aspect that they offered insights from professionals from different fields. Designers, models, journalists. But that's the point. They are all professional, established people with public following, who no doubt have doubt. But it's not the same, and I believe not as encompassing feeling. We hear from them all the time, because they do have the platform to speak up and express themselves, be it creatively or otherwise. However, I believe that people, who are at the beginning of their professional careers, should be included in the discussion just as much. They were good interviews, especially Alessandro Michele one. I just wish more scope was given to the unknown faces.

The first and the largest section of this issue consists of 'prose'. These are mainly essays on doubt, which are based on personal experiences and recollections. Two pieces stood out to me: Because It's Spring by Brando Skyhorse and The Doubters, or To Love Fashion Is To Doubt Fashion: An Impossible Interview by Dr. Renate Strauss. I think it was Dr. Strauss's writing that resonated with me the most. It was precisely this kind of perspective that I was used to from Vestoj's previous issues and it was the one that I was looking forward to. It was reflective, informative and well, creative.

'Fiction' section was short and sweet. Firstly, it features Désirée's Baby by Kate Chopin, which I believe to be an American classic. It's a short story rooted in Louisiana's creole heritage of 19th century. It's a short story, and in its shortness it tells you all you need to know about racist prejudice of that time. Second short story is Girls in Their Summer Dresses by Irwin Shaw. It's a light-hearted story about a relationship between a man a woman, painted on the landscape of a sunny day in 1960s(?) New York.

Theory section is what I usually look forward to reading. On this occasion I found the first writing to be quite dense, but that is subjective to every reader. I found the second piece more to my liking.

To sum it up: mostly I enjoyed the interviews, The Measure of a Man: W. E. B. Du Bois and the Fashioning of New Negro Masculinity by Jonathan Michael Square (theory), and Dr. Strauss's essay definitely makes up for other shortcomings. Excellent read as always, but compared to the previous issues that I got my hands on (Issues #5, 7, 8, 9), I give On Doubt 3.75 stars.