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368 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2006
Africa is to be pitied, worshipped or dominated. Whichever angle you take, be sure to leave the strong impression that without your intervention and your important book, Africa is doomed.His satirical essay "How to Write About Africa", published in Granta magazine in 2005, attracted wide attention. Wainaina summed up the way Western media has reinforced stereotypes and pre-existing ideas of Africa by saying their representation was that: "One must treat Africa as if it were one country... [of] 900 million people who are too busy starving and dying and warring and emigrating to read your book."
What many in and outside Kenya know as tribes did not exist as nations before the white man came. The contracts were different, the social arrangements different. Languages were shared, and agreements and rules….And how do you create a nation out of forty or so tribes? You spend time, as frenziedly as possible over forty years, building a weave of mythology strong enough to bond the pieces together: a grammar, a constitution, mottos. But you fail to do this successfully: only blood creates nations. Only the risk of annihilation makes people abandon the ways they presently use to make sense of the world. But you must try to make this work—we know no other way, so we pretend it works. And wait and see. And become born-again Christians or drunks when things take the wrong course.
Just as the sun drops behind the silhouette of the city in the distance, we turn off the main road. We enter another planet.
It is as if we are in a city of paraffin lamps, and there are literally thousands of people milling about. Narrow paths zigzag between shacks. In front of the shacks something is being sold. Meat is grilling, chapatis are doing triple somersaults off flat pans, and vetkoek are spitting with fury. The energy of the place is unbelievable.
There are piles and piles of neatly arranged tomatoes, red onions, mangoes. And kale. Red Yellow, and green bananas hang from ceilings…There are acrobats, charismatic preachers with mobile PA systems, butchers and fishmongers, secondhand book stalls, bars…
It is only once I adjust to the frenzy around me that I notice the art. It is like the cover of a fantasy novel. I guess nobody needs to buy realism for their walls; it’s free here. I notice that most of the better paintings have been done by the same person: Joga. He is sent for, and…a diminutive young man with uncomfortably naked eyes joins us. ..He has only a primary-school education and has never been to an art gallery. He just likes to draw.
He takes us around his favorite works. I can count on my fingers the number of times I have felt beauty so utterly.