Entertaining 45,000 mile journey via rail to Europe, Asia, North America by a British journalist and her fiance. It wasn't easy to get into at first, as she tended to skip around a bit, it wasn't exactly sequential, but once you get used to her style, it is really interesting and becomes a page-turner. I liked it for the updates on conditions in Tibet, Sinkiang, North Korea, as well as a look - albeit fleeting - on life in the hinterland of Russia and the ex-Soviet Central Asian republic of Kazakhstan, as well as an interesting look at life today in Mongolia. The impression is that modern life has seeped into every last, once obscure corner of the Earth: Everyone has iPhones and tablets, everyone is wearing Nikes or Adidas, everyone seems to be on the same wavelength materially despite cultural and linguistic differences. Even a Tibetan Buddhist nun was using a smartphone to exchange text messages with her fellow nuns. A lot of the writing is breezy but that's nice in the current portentous day and age, but she sometimes has thoughtful digressions, musings on life, time, etc., as well as wonderful descriptions of cities, mountains, rivers, sunsets as she passes through the landscape on the seemingly endless journey. I'd recommend this book to anyone interested in train travel - this book is about a truly epic train odyssey!
A few quotes:
"Time and again [in India] I encountered so-called 'godmen' exploiting the poor and vulnerable, priests extracting money for nothing, and blind faith leading to disappointment."
"...we set off in search of anything ancient [in Ulaanbaatar], finding a couple of scrappy Buddhist monasteries, subdued during Soviet rule. It took us a couple of hours in the National Museum of Mongolian History, looking at armor, costumes and jewelry, to gain any sense of the city's old culture..."
"Unless associated with the [Chinese] emperor, nobody could lay golden tiles on their roofs, and gates were typically painted black, green, or red. After 1949, and the communist takeover, everything was repainted red."
"...we'd become obsessed with speed, checking our watches, glancing at the clock, running for the Tube, inventing bullet trains, faster internet and instant coffee, yet where was the extra time we were saving? And what were we doing with it?"
"Leaving my job, my home and my possessions had quietened the noise in my head. My immediate concerns were where to eat and where to sleep. The less I carried, the less I worried."
"...after Pol Pot captured Phnom Penh in 1975, the trains played accomplice to his genocidal regime, enabling the evacuation and relocation to the countryside of hundreds of thousands of Cambodians forced into hard labor that led to their starvation and eventual massacre."
"...time was only of the essence until we caught the train. Once on board, it ceased to matter."
"...the sound of cicadas shook from the trees like a million tiny maracas."
"With just twelve minutes until departure, the Sakura Shinkansen slid up with the stealth of a creep at a bar, and a woman stepped out carrying a bin bag. She stood next to the door holding it open as passengers exited the train, and bowed as each one deposited their litter. So used to the carpet of crisps and cans of Carling on British trains, I couldn't imagine anyone collecting their own rubbish, let alone being grateful for someone else's."
"Canadians don't take trains, they drive monster trucks from one province to the next, but that requires concentration on the road, and the need to stay awake. With this in mind, it now dawned on me why long-distance train travel held such great appeal. No other mode of transport combined my two favorite pastimes: travelling the world and lying in bed. Propped up with pillows, holding a morning cup of tea, I could lean against the window and watch as villages, towns, cities, states and countries swept past, safe in the knowledge that I was going places, while also going nowhere."
"[Tracy, guide on Canadian train:] 'Now it's time to read the news, or take a snooze!'"
"Our pseudo-busy, social media-driven lives had shortened our attention spans and tricked us into thinking we had no time for slowness and deliberation. Like babies, we were distracted by the slightest triggers, which were mostly trivial. For the first time in months, reading had become meditation again, almost medicinal in its healing."
"Unapproved journalists are not allowed to enter [North Korea] and newspapers regularly preyed upon foolish couples and American students willing to ham up tales of their visit for a tidy fee..."
"While North Korea spins stories, the Western media is just as guilty of indulging its own agenda, painting North Koreans as one-dimensional robots serving their great leader."
"[In North Korea] The chance of an uprising was still remote, as the money and power lay with the upper echelons of society, who were quite happy to maintain the status quo so long as it worked in their favor."
"In a few hours we would be back in the smog and grind of Beijing, clogged with cars and angry people, and I wondered who really had the better lifestyle."
"China's cultural Revolution unfolded in the mid-1960s, driving the desecration of almost all of Tibet's monasteries, destroying libraries and paintings."
"The young Uighurs were regularly stopped and asked to hand over their phones for examination, and CCTV cameras above mosques ensured they didn't try to enter to pray."
"But collectively labeling Uighurs as one oppressed minority was naive. No doubt there were a number who did subscribe to extremism, and it was a tragedy that the entire community was suffering as a result."
"...we don't really see or listen to each other any more: empathy is fading from existence."
"The earth was much smaller than I'd realized, and nothing was that far away."