‘The Ride of Her Life’ by Elizabeth Letts is a biography of an amazing woman! Even now, despite the vast collection of personal diaries, newspaper stories, letters, postcards to those who helped her as well as personal interviews with their families, and several experts researching public records verifying that the 5000-mile journey of Annie Wilkins across America on horseback happened exactly as told by witnesses, as well as described in her own autobiography, I am still shaking my head in disbelief. Ninety-nine percent of women were still being held back from performing great feats of physical acts and the having of personal self-directed adventures requiring daring and luck in the 1950’s. But a few women here and there slipped through the social barriers. Annie Wilkins was one of those women.
Annie was poor and uneducated. She only went to the sixth grade before her parents pulled her out of school to work on their Maine farm (my dad only went as far as sixth grade, too). The farm had no electricity and no indoor plumbing. After both of her parents had died, and also a man who had lived with them whom she called Uncle Waldo died some years after her parents, she lost the family farm to taxes. She had been married twice before, returning to the farm and her parents after getting divorces. She had for a very short time worked in vaudeville entertainment with the first husband. She had no kids. She had never seen a “talkie” or a TV show. She had no place to go, no job skills, no family. Annie was sixty-three-years-old, and a doctor had told her she only had a year or two to live. She had tuberculosis.
With nothing at all but a few dollars to buy a horse called Tarzan, and with a pet dog she named Depeche Toi (Hurry up), she decided to ride Tarzan from Minot, Maine, a farming community which hadn’t changed much in a hundred years, to Los Angeles, California, a city which was modernizing at a dizzy pace. Why? She felt like it.
I have copied the book blurb:
”NATIONAL BESTSELLER • The triumphant true story of a woman who rode her horse across America in the 1950s, fulfilling her dying wish to see the Pacific Ocean, from the #1 New York Times bestselling author of The Perfect Horse and The Eighty-Dollar Champion
“The gift Elizabeth Letts has is that she makes you feel you are the one taking this trip. This is a book we can enjoy always but especially need now.”—Elizabeth Berg, author of The Story of Arthur Truluv
In 1954, sixty-three-year-old Maine farmer Annie Wilkins embarked on an impossible journey. She had no money and no family, she had just lost her farm, and her doctor had given her only two years to live. But Annie wanted to see the Pacific Ocean before she died. She ignored her doctor’s advice to move into the county charity home. Instead, she bought a cast-off brown gelding named Tarzan, donned men’s dungarees, and headed south in mid-November, hoping to beat the snow. Annie had little idea what to expect beyond her rural crossroads; she didn’t even have a map. But she did have her ex-racehorse, her faithful mutt, and her own unfailing belief that Americans would treat a stranger with kindness.
Annie, Tarzan, and her dog, Depeche Toi, rode straight into a world transformed by the rapid construction of modern highways. Between 1954 and 1956, the three travelers pushed through blizzards, forded rivers, climbed mountains, and clung to the narrow shoulder as cars whipped by them at terrifying speeds. Annie rode more than four thousand miles, through America’s big cities and small towns. Along the way, she met ordinary people and celebrities—from Andrew Wyeth (who sketched Tarzan) to Art Linkletter and Groucho Marx. She received many offers—a permanent home at a riding stable in New Jersey, a job at a gas station in rural Kentucky, even a marriage proposal from a Wyoming rancher. In a decade when car ownership nearly tripled, when television’s influence was expanding fast, when homeowners began locking their doors, Annie and her four-footed companions inspired an outpouring of neighborliness in a rapidly changing world.”
I cried at the end. I think most readers will need a box of tissues on finishing the book.
The book was a trip down memory lane for me. Yes, this reviewer is in her seventh decade. The book describes the America I grew up in. I experienced constant shocks of recognition and feelings of nostalgia very strongly, surprising myself. Although my childhood was in the “big” city of Seattle, it was not an up-to-date city for a long time. I estimate the largest Washington State city was twenty years, maybe more, behind the industrial cities of the East Coast and Great Lakes areas of America, and of course, Seattle was more primitive in culture and sophistication than Los Angeles. It was more like San Francisco of the 1950’s I think, only smaller with more semi-rural districts. Sailors, fishermen and loggers walked the city streets when I was a child. There was THE “skid row”, the original street that gave its name to other similar places eventually. It was a street of cheap hotels for solitary, hard-drinking and hard-working people, rooms rented by the week or month. Taverns were common in every district, but especially on “skid row”. They were very dark and dirty places to drink, nothing like the more friendly pubs, bars and clubs I hear about now.
My parents’ house was in an unincorporated area where many small 800-square-foot houses were built only a few years previously on huge lots for World War II veterans. But it wasn’t rural despite the large lots and undeveloped blocks of woodsy areas. It looked like many neighborhood areas of Seattle, small boxy single story houses mixed in with larger well-built nicer houses. However, there were undeveloped woodsy lots. The Seattle city limits were only five blocks from my parents’ house. The boundary was a street, 85th Avenue North, between unincorporated county land and Seattle. If you were driving around there you wouldn’t notice at all that you had left Seattle proper and were in an unincorporated area. It didn’t remain unincorporated very long as by the time I was in elementary school the Greenwood District had become part of Seattle. However, the new district that became a Seattle neighborhood never did get sidewalks like most of Seattle has.
I was in third grade, I think, when we got a black and white TV set. But most TV shows were only broadcast in black and white. Color shows were beginning to be more commonly broadcast just before I started junior high, but we didn’t get a color set for a little longer. They were expensive! There were three Seattle channels which started at 6am and signed off at midnight. Smaller cities, like Tacoma, had a couple of TV stations, which we could get if the antenna on the roof was positioned correctly. My dad had to climb on a ladder to the roof to turn the antenna to get stations. The rabbit ears sitting on top of the set were very necessary for adjusting the TV picture too. Stereo radio stations did not exist. I remember listening to radio dramas more than I watched TV as a little girl. I can remember how excited my teacher was rolling in a huge portable TV set so that we could watch the new educational channel, PBS. It showed black and white shows only, with very low production, for only a few daytime hours, consisting of usually just a male teacher sitting at desk with a blackboard near him, giving a lesson in a uninflected tone.
My mother washed out clothes on a washboard in the bathtub of our new house. She eventually got a wringer washer when I was in about second or third grade. She had to watch us to make sure we didn’t put our hands into the wringer, which was without any cover at all, because it was so enticing to touch for us children because of how it “ate” clothes to wring them out of water. She hung clothes outside on a clothes line to dry.
While these are my personal memories, the book has more stories of what were new engineering and manufacturing marvels encountered by Annie as well as us Seattle folks in the same 1950’s era, but only with historical facts and figures I was unaware of. I was surrounded by artifacts and new engineering structures and inventions coming to Seattle that I had no idea of where they came from, or how widespread in America they were NOT! In Seattle, we were getting these new inventions when I was ten years old, but in most of America they were not known or in people’s home at all. I did not know this until I read ‘The Ride of Her Life’! Annie literally traveled from the 19th century to the 20th century in a few months of riding horseback, from rural unpaved roads where horses and even horse-drawn delivery carts were somewhat a common sight to roads in rural Maine, to where only cars whizzed by her, almost hitting her horse and dog because there often were no road shoulders. She had no idea cars were so numerous on the new roads.
Seattle was a port city which looked rural here and there, or like a small town here and there, depending on the district. I could bike or bus to semi-rural areas in Seattle in an hour. We did have many cars, but usually people who lived here had only one car per family. No horses on the roads. There were a few very small farms still located inside Seattle, believe it or not. Lower classes were predominant, with a growing middle class. Rich people were in a few neighborhoods closer in to downtown. It was easy to live your entire life in Seattle and never meet a rich person when I was a kid except perhaps if one dared to enter the few stores downtown where rich people shopped and ate. When the I-5 freeway opened, it was a marvel. My dad drove us to church on it in his old Plymouth. We could drive for a long time before we saw another car. The freeway was absolutely clean and spotless, no dirt, no garbage, no potholes or broken concrete. A brand new road looking somewhat “space-age” was an amazingly beautiful thing!
My parents took driving trips west, going no farther than North Dakota, driving and stopping in Idaho and Montana a few times, a very few times, to visit relatives. Some of my dad’s relations still lived on rundown farms without indoor plumbing, much like the Maine farms described in the book. My brother and I were amazed. We had never used a outhouse, much less ever seen one before. Using it was Ick ick, right? We had to walk a woodsy path to get to it. My various relatives, like my uncle and my dad’s sister and their seven children, had cows and chickens and a few horses on their small farm-holds. I remember being amazed at my oldest cousin at age 15 (he’d been driving since he was 13 years old) driving vicious looking insectile farm machinery around, although very rusty and beat up as the equipment was (he was short and small, but he also had stringy but tough bunchy muscles I had never seen on a kid). I didn’t have my driver’s license, and I couldn’t get one until I attended Driver’s Ed in high school and turned 16 years old.
Electricity was a very recent development on some of my relatives’ farm. Kitchens had hand pumps, not faucets, and water came from wells. I remember my aunt had a lot of pickled, well, everything food stuffs all over in her cupboards to eat because of a lack of dependable refrigeration and/or a refrigerator. (I HATED pickled everything!) Homemade pickled foodstuff was cheaper and easier to get. No supermarkets back then, not even in Seattle. At least Seattle had small market stores everywhere, in what we call strip malls today, and small shopping centers all over Seattle! And we had what were considered large refrigerators with a small freezer in the 1960’s in Seattle homes. While my aunt’s cooler, or whatever it was, was somewhat chunky, it had a very small internal area of space! This was 1960 - 1960! or so, gentler readers, give or take a few years! As a kid, I couldn’t believe my relatives lived without ‘modern’ (for the time) appliances or indoor plumbing. Driving to these places only just on the east side of the Cascades or on Washington’s Pacific Ocean coast in the west, not only to other states in the Midwest, it was a shock seeing people living ‘today’ (1960’s) like they did in western movies I saw in my local movie theater.
A few miles north and south out of Seattle would land you in farms and very small towns, too, that were much the same as what people lived in in the Midwest, but only with a lot more dependable electricity available in more Pacific Northwest areas than the rural Midwest, better roads, ‘modern’ appliances and newish cars more available for a longer while in the Pacific Northwest than the Midwest. Roads in the Midwest AND non-city Washington State were often only two-lane, and bridges were made of wood, but dirt roads were more common from what I saw in the Midwest. Small towns were damn small, literally one-stop-light main streets in the Midwest, if that, and horses clopped around amidst old beat up Chevys and Fords and other manufactured American cars and trucks which no longer are in production.
This book describes an America which is now gone. I suspect many readers will be surprised that people like me ‘only’ in my 70’s grew up in the America described in the book. As a child, I never questioned my surroundings, I just lived in it and with it. Like Annie did. I also marveled at the changes that occurred as Seattle modernized, and electronic home appliances became available. I still remember the amazement of using a microwave, and the miracle of air conditioning in a regular normal house (Seattle never really had air conditioning in ordinary residential homes until recently when it has become more of a necessity here). I rode in building elevators that had an attendant sitting on a stool, and I remember going to downtown Seattle department stores with huge bathrooms that had attendants hanging around. Attendants in downtown buildings didn’t go away until I was a young teenager. I remember the first time I used an escalator, not a thing to be found in Seattle until shopping malls were built, when I was a young teenager. I almost fell down. I miss the original, brand new Northgate Mall, my goto for exciting shopping malls! (It was the only one for awhile in Seattle, actually.)
Alas! I am a very jaded person these days. Not even the development of AI has me very excited. I haven’t been excited over any modern new new now thing since I first discovered early computers in the early 1980’s. I still remember my 8088 PC fondly. I haven’t really been fond of a computer since, but I do love my IPad. However, it’s not the same as the ecstasy I felt in exploring the wonders of my 8088, loaded with Microsoft’s amazing MS DOS!
I most highly recommend ‘The Ride of Her Life’. It is about so much more than Annie’s introduction to modern appliances and cars, electricity and indoor plumbing, or her love for her animals which were her friends, not just pets. I have to apologize for the sideways trip I took in my review, but I couldn’t help it. The book is all about the era of America I grew up in, too, except my 20th century America was an urban/suburban one, not rural except on long weekends or vacations. But Annie meets people, such open friendly people, that brought me to tears. I had forgotten how people used to behave and feel towards each other and to strangers, how generous Americans were.
There are maps showing Annie’s journey, and Notes, Bibliography and Index sections.