A delicious, multilayered tale of a legendary sandwich
Florida Book Awards, Gold Medal for Cooking
Creative Loafing Tampa Bay Best of the Bay Awards, “Best Approach to Pressing Matters”
How did the Cuban sandwich become a symbol for a displaced people, win the hearts and bellies of America, and claim a spot on menus around the world? The odyssey of the Cubano begins with its hazy origins in the midnight cafés of Havana, from where it evolved into a dainty high-class hors d’oeuvre and eventually became a hearty street snack devoured by cigar factory workers. In The Cuban Sandwich, three devoted fans—Andrew Huse, Bárbara Cruz, and Jeff Houck—sort through improbable vintage recipes, sift gossip from Florida old-timers, and wade into the fearsome Tampa vs. Miami sandwich debate (is adding salami necessary or heresy?) to reveal the social history behind how this delicacy became a lunch-counter staple in the US and beyond.
The authors also interview artisans who’ve perfected the high arts of creating and combining expertly baked Cuban bread, sweet ham, savory roast pork, perfectly melted Swiss cheese, and tangy, crunchy pickles. Tips and expert insight for making Cuban sandwiches at home will have readers savoring the history behind each perfect bite.
Publication of this work is made possible by a Sustaining the Humanities through the American Rescue Plan grant from the National Endowment for the Humanities.
A great history of one of my favorite foods! I really enjoyed reading about the history of all of the different components and then also about the sandwich itself. Living in Florida for as long as I have, I've been to most of the places that were mentioned in this book, and I can't help but agree that they are the best spots for Cuban sandwiches. Especially Columbia (the one in Ybor specifically), that restaurant holds special memories for me as one set of my grandparents took me there all the time, one of my first food related memories is eating the 1905 salad with my grandpa. The last time I ate there was with both of my grandparents before they passed, reading about the history of the restaurant was definitely a plus that I wasn't expecting. If you like reading about things like this and you're a fan of Cuban sandwiches or just Cuban food in general I would definitely suggest this book!
I caught sight of this book on a library shelf and grabbed it because, growing up near Miami, the Cuban sandwich was a common treat when I was younger. This book is a delightful combination of food and culture, using the distinct sandwich as a through-line leading the reader through decades of Cuban-American history. Along the way, the authors highlight restaurants and sandwich shops in Cuban communities throughout the U.S., interviewing the families that own them, and noting the commonalities and the unique qualities of both the sandwiches and the communities they serve.
You won’t learn how to roast the perfect pork or get the bread exactly right, but you will learn what makes the Cuban sandwich a special and long-standing part of Cuban-American culture. And you will definitely close the book hungry!
- Review by Ginger, Dale City Library Staff
Click here to find the book at Prince William Public Libraries.
Written like an academic dissertation but interspersed with interviews of various business owners which spices things up enough to make the book more readable. I have never visited Miami, Key West, or Tampa before (or Cuba for that matter), but now I want to go to eat some Cuban Sandwiches. I guess it's a winner in that regard?
An interesting history of my favorite sandwich, this started out absolutely fascinating and then started reading quite a lot like an academic dissertation. Beyond the start, which was great, I also liked all the interspersed anecdotes and chef/restaurant stories. I would have enjoyed a bit more specific to the sandwich, and a little less over simplified Cuban history. But very glad I read!
I saw this author/book mentioned in a food documentary that I can't remember the name of. This book covers Cuban pollical and culinary history. You also get way more insight into one sandwich than you ever thought possible. Now I'm hungry.
This is a fascinating read; it is so much more than just a history about the Cuban sandwich. It is a history about Cuba and the Cuban people, sandwiches of all types, and the role of Cuba and the Cuban sandwich on the food scene.
The Cuban Sandwich: A History In Layers. Andrew T. Huse, Barbara C. Cruz, and Jeff Houck. University Press of Florida, 2022. 180 pages.
Every state has a couple of foods that Americans associate with that state. In Florida, it's most likely key lime pie and the Cuban sandwich. Personally, I think smoked mullet is a much bigger and better contribution to food than those two combined, but they are the quintessential Florida foods in the minds of most Americans.
The Cuban sandwich has a long history of popularity, but both its composition and its origin have been clouded by conflicting claims and stories. Tampa, Miami, and Key West all claim to be the home of the sandwich, which typically consists of some combination of pork (ham, roast pork, pulled pork), Swiss cheese, mustard, and pickles on Cuban bread. Tampans add salami, a heresy according to other aficionados. While the origin story has been researched before, authors Huse, Cruz, and Houck felt that there was more to the story and that it hadn't been fully told. After extensive research, and I'm sure countless Cubans, they've created this fantastic history and a great read. I have always believed that food is an excellent entry point when studying history, and this book delivers. Their research reveals that Cuba was known for its sandwiches even before the Spanish-American War, even before the word sandwich reached Cuba, and they were often considered treats for upper class Cubans out on Sunday strolls. There were different sandwiches with different names. One of those sandwiches, called a mixto by most Cubans, eventually made its way to the United States, probably with immigrants to New York City. The original sandwich looked very different, often including turkey or chicken, and/or lettuce and tomatoes. When Cubans settled in Florida, the sandwich went from upper class treat to staple for workers in cigar factories and other occupations. The authors have done a delicious job of presenting Cuban and Florida history in all of its layers, and, along with the history, they include really interesting profiles of people and businesses that have made and continue to make contributions in Cuban sandwich-ology.
I found this book in the cooking section of the library, so I mistakenly assumed it was a cookbook. In spite of that being incorrect, it is good for what it actually is, which is more a history of Cuba. I wasn’t personally interested in the history of Cuba, so I actually skimmed this more than read it cover to cover, but for anyone who does want to learn about Cuba and Cuban immigrants, it is an interesting perspective.