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By Her Own Design: A Novel of Ann Lowe, Fashion Designer to the Social Register; Library Edition
The incredible untold story of how Ann Lowe, a Black woman and granddaughter of slaves, rose above personal struggles and racial prejudice to design and create one of America's most famous wedding dresses of all time for Jackie Kennedy.
1953, New York City
Less than a week before the society wedding of the year where Jacqueline Bouvier will marry John F. Kennedy, Jr, a pipe bursts at Ann Lowe's dress shop and ruins eleven dresses, including the expensive wedding dress, a dress that will be judged by thousands. A Black designer who has fought every step of the way, Ann knows this is only one struggle after a lifetime of them. She and her seamstresses will find the way to re-create the dresses. It may take all day and all night for the next week to accomplish the task, but they will do it.
1918, Tampa
Raised in Jim Crow Alabama, Ann learned the art of sewing from her mother and her grandmother, a former slave, who are the most talented seamstresses in the state. After Ann elopes at twelve with an older man who soon proves himself to be an abusive alcoholic, her dreams of becoming a celebrated designer seem to be put on hold. But then a wealthy Tampa socialite sees Ann's talent and offers her an amazing opportunity--the chance to sew and design clothing for Florida's society elite. Taking her young son in the middle of the night, Ann escapes her husband and embarks on the adventure of a lifetime.
Based on the true story of one of the most famous designers of the twenties through the sixties who has since been unjustly forgotten, By Her Own Design is an unforgettable novel of determination despite countless obstacles and a triumph celebrated by the world.
1953, New York City
Less than a week before the society wedding of the year where Jacqueline Bouvier will marry John F. Kennedy, Jr, a pipe bursts at Ann Lowe's dress shop and ruins eleven dresses, including the expensive wedding dress, a dress that will be judged by thousands. A Black designer who has fought every step of the way, Ann knows this is only one struggle after a lifetime of them. She and her seamstresses will find the way to re-create the dresses. It may take all day and all night for the next week to accomplish the task, but they will do it.
1918, Tampa
Raised in Jim Crow Alabama, Ann learned the art of sewing from her mother and her grandmother, a former slave, who are the most talented seamstresses in the state. After Ann elopes at twelve with an older man who soon proves himself to be an abusive alcoholic, her dreams of becoming a celebrated designer seem to be put on hold. But then a wealthy Tampa socialite sees Ann's talent and offers her an amazing opportunity--the chance to sew and design clothing for Florida's society elite. Taking her young son in the middle of the night, Ann escapes her husband and embarks on the adventure of a lifetime.
Based on the true story of one of the most famous designers of the twenties through the sixties who has since been unjustly forgotten, By Her Own Design is an unforgettable novel of determination despite countless obstacles and a triumph celebrated by the world.
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First published June 7, 2022
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 1,118 reviews
June 11, 2022
I'm the author of this book. It's weird to rate my own work but GR is a pretty hard place so I went ahead and did it. I hope people enjoy the book and spread the word about this remarkable woman!
May 13, 2022
This book grabbed me so hard and so fast, I read it in one sitting. What an amazing novel—well, fictionalized history, really. This is the story of the legendary Black clothing designer Ann Lowe, who made (among other things) Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress. The thing is, she wasn’t a legend in her own time, or at least, not enough. Being a Black dress designer in the 1950’s and 60’s, she was “society’s best kept secret,” and her lack of accreditation hurt her business. This didn’t stop her, and that wedding dress was not the only iconic look she designed. Dr. Huguley tells this story with such intimacy, it’s like you’re in the shop or helping Jackie get dressed just before her wedding at Hammersmith Farm. A must-read for anyone who loves clothing design, American history, the Kennedys and a heroine who never stops reaching for her dreams.
June 8, 2022
I am drawn to stories about strong women from history whose lives were all but forgotten. This is an excellent example of the use of historical fiction to bring to our attention life and career of Ann Lowe. Lowe was a Black woman who grew up in the Jim Crow south. Raised by her mother and grandmother, she learned her seamstress skills from them, but went on to become a designer and dress maker to the social elite in Tampa and later New York City. Her prolific career spanned from the 1920s through the 1960s. She is most famous for designing Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy’s iconic wedding dress, although she was not given credit at the time when the Ladies Home Journal article said that the dress was made by a “colored dressmaker”; an insult to Lowe’s talent and importance.
Lowe faced many hardships and setbacks throughout her life, including a burst pipe in her New York studio that ruined Jackie Kennedy’s original wedding gown, as well as many of the bridesmaid dresses. Refusing to accept failure, Lowe gathered help from her employees, women from church, and her beloved sister; and in one week, recreated the wedding dress and all of the bridesmaids’ dresses.
As Lowe looks back on her life in the novel, she imparts the struggles of her childhood; her first marriage at the age of 11; her flight from her abusive husband, with her young son in tow to start again in Tampa; and her time in a design school in New York City where she was segregated (literally to a closet in the back of the room). Each time she was faced with obstacles Lowe persevered and could not be kept down.
This was an engrossing and inspirational novel, beautifully written and excellently researched. Lowe’s character and personality shine throughout the novel, as do the delectable descriptions of the dresses and gowns she created. I could not put this novel down once I started. I highly recommend this book to lovers of not just historical fiction, but those desirous of learning about amazing women lost to history. This will definitely be on many a book clubs list.
Thanks to William Morrow and NetGalley for the e-ARC
Lowe faced many hardships and setbacks throughout her life, including a burst pipe in her New York studio that ruined Jackie Kennedy’s original wedding gown, as well as many of the bridesmaid dresses. Refusing to accept failure, Lowe gathered help from her employees, women from church, and her beloved sister; and in one week, recreated the wedding dress and all of the bridesmaids’ dresses.
As Lowe looks back on her life in the novel, she imparts the struggles of her childhood; her first marriage at the age of 11; her flight from her abusive husband, with her young son in tow to start again in Tampa; and her time in a design school in New York City where she was segregated (literally to a closet in the back of the room). Each time she was faced with obstacles Lowe persevered and could not be kept down.
This was an engrossing and inspirational novel, beautifully written and excellently researched. Lowe’s character and personality shine throughout the novel, as do the delectable descriptions of the dresses and gowns she created. I could not put this novel down once I started. I highly recommend this book to lovers of not just historical fiction, but those desirous of learning about amazing women lost to history. This will definitely be on many a book clubs list.
Thanks to William Morrow and NetGalley for the e-ARC
October 2, 2023
By Her Own Design brings an extraordinary story of Ann Lowe, a Black woman, who rose above personal struggles and racial prejudice to design for elite, and the famous wedding dress for Jackie Kennedy.
Early 20th century in Alabama, Ann Lowe learns the art of sewing from her mother and grandmother. From childhood, she is taught to have a patron in building a certain clientele. There comes a day when an opportunity comes her way, when another woman sees the dress she sew. Then, another door opens for her to go to design school. Those would seem the right choices to grab, but there always seems something to be holding her back. What she reaches for will determine her future.
Her life is richly imagined from childhood, with mother and grandmother who teach her sewing and shape her young mind in the right direction. And one woman becomes a big stepping stone in her life’s journey, which undoubtedly is shaped by her own talent. And a day comes, when her life is transformed when a new client by the name of Mrs. Bouvier walks into her shop and life, with her fourteen year old daughter, Jacqueline Bouvier, who would become Ann’s special client.
Wonderful storytelling sheds light on an incredible woman who defied the odds and achieved extraordinary success during her lifetime. Told in the first person, the voice of Ann sounds very real and believable as truly listening to the story of her own words. This engrossing story makes pages turn quickly.
Early 20th century in Alabama, Ann Lowe learns the art of sewing from her mother and grandmother. From childhood, she is taught to have a patron in building a certain clientele. There comes a day when an opportunity comes her way, when another woman sees the dress she sew. Then, another door opens for her to go to design school. Those would seem the right choices to grab, but there always seems something to be holding her back. What she reaches for will determine her future.
Her life is richly imagined from childhood, with mother and grandmother who teach her sewing and shape her young mind in the right direction. And one woman becomes a big stepping stone in her life’s journey, which undoubtedly is shaped by her own talent. And a day comes, when her life is transformed when a new client by the name of Mrs. Bouvier walks into her shop and life, with her fourteen year old daughter, Jacqueline Bouvier, who would become Ann’s special client.
Wonderful storytelling sheds light on an incredible woman who defied the odds and achieved extraordinary success during her lifetime. Told in the first person, the voice of Ann sounds very real and believable as truly listening to the story of her own words. This engrossing story makes pages turn quickly.
May 11, 2022
Though there are a number of writers who focus on historical fiction, not many get it as right as Piper Huguley does. Through her research and her creative storytelling, she brings historical figures to life. I have never read one of her books and not learned something I didn't know.
By Her Own Design is the story of the hard-working, often overlooked designer Ann Lowe. While she's best known for creating Jacqueline Kennedy's dress for her wedding to future president John Kennedy, Huguley broadens our knowledge of this intriguing woman, beginning with her humble beginnings and taking us all the way to her twilight years. While Ms. Lowe faced adversity, the author also pays just as much attention to the kindness shown to her.
Would I love to see a made-for-TV movie or series based on the Ann Lowe? I absolutely would! Am I eagerly anticipating what Piper Huguley writes next? I absolutely am!
By Her Own Design is the story of the hard-working, often overlooked designer Ann Lowe. While she's best known for creating Jacqueline Kennedy's dress for her wedding to future president John Kennedy, Huguley broadens our knowledge of this intriguing woman, beginning with her humble beginnings and taking us all the way to her twilight years. While Ms. Lowe faced adversity, the author also pays just as much attention to the kindness shown to her.
Would I love to see a made-for-TV movie or series based on the Ann Lowe? I absolutely would! Am I eagerly anticipating what Piper Huguley writes next? I absolutely am!
August 30, 2022
Author Piper Huguley has chosen a little-known African-American woman from Alabama--Ann Lowe--whose rise from poverty, mistreatment, and lack of education to become a renowned fashion designer should be an inspiring work. This story is grounded in facts, though Ann Lowe received very little public acclaim in her own time.
I think the book should've been more closely edited to make the text soar to the triumphs and face the dramatize setbacks the main character faced throughout her life. I found it tedious to read, though I stuck with it.
I applaud Huguley's case to present this story, but I found the writing to be pedestrian, sometimes dull, repetitive, and lacking in depth. It felt a lot like an afterschool special with good intentions.
While Ann Lowe may be an inspiration to many, I think she deserved a more artful working of her fascinating story.
I think the book should've been more closely edited to make the text soar to the triumphs and face the dramatize setbacks the main character faced throughout her life. I found it tedious to read, though I stuck with it.
I applaud Huguley's case to present this story, but I found the writing to be pedestrian, sometimes dull, repetitive, and lacking in depth. It felt a lot like an afterschool special with good intentions.
While Ann Lowe may be an inspiration to many, I think she deserved a more artful working of her fascinating story.
February 16, 2024
By Her own Design by Piper Huguley is a wonderful book of a stubborn, talented black woman full of tenacity to never give up. Born into a family raised by her grandmother and momma she grew up watching them design beautiful dresses for wealthy white women. At a young age she started making fabric flowers. She married at the age of 12 and by 15 Ann Lowe had a baby. Her talent was recognized by a wealthy white woman from Tampa Fla. she was encouraged to leave and move to Fla. After a few years she was encouraged to go to design school. During the times of Jim Crow laws Ann experienced lots of racism. Her life continues. Many ups and celebrations. A lot of racism. Other hardships to get through. She never ever gave up. She built herself with love and support from others she succeeded. I love stories about strong women. Most of all i love stories of strong black women. It is like a great big FU to the racist people who tried to keep beautiful ladies from being successful. Did I mention Ann Lowe designed a famous 1st lady’s wedding dress…?
February 25, 2022
I flew through the pages of this fascinating novel about Ann Lowe and her incredible rise in the fashion industry. In By Her Own Design, Piper Huguley has written a wonderfully inspiring and intimate book that will leave readers hungry to read more about women who have been overlooked for far too long. Don't miss this one!
March 3, 2024
Something about being in the mind of Ann Lowe was absolutely captivating, and so hard. I'm so glad I got to learn about this fashion designer, and cannot wait to interview the author!
Content note I will add, is that Ann was married to a man twice her age; she was 12 when he pursued her. Hard to read about, for sure, but Ann's reality.
Content note I will add, is that Ann was married to a man twice her age; she was 12 when he pursued her. Hard to read about, for sure, but Ann's reality.
April 15, 2023
Historical fiction about the life of Ann Lowe, a young Black woman who became one of the best kept secrets in the world of custom design. Born into poverty in Alabama, married at 12 to an abusive husband, she has a special gift for dress design and sewing. Her clothes were noticed by a wealthy white Florida woman who assisted in her escape from her marriage with her young son and became her patron. Over the years Ann make countless dresses for the women of society, both in Tampa, Florida and eventually in NYC, where she opened her own shop. Her crowning achievement in design was making the wedding gown for Jacqueline Bouvier, although she was never credited for it.
Ann Lowe lived a life filled with hardships, heartbreak, along with great joy and even greater talent. This is a story of how a Black woman overcame numerous obstacles to become an inspiring yet humble designer.
A definite recommend.
Ann Lowe lived a life filled with hardships, heartbreak, along with great joy and even greater talent. This is a story of how a Black woman overcame numerous obstacles to become an inspiring yet humble designer.
A definite recommend.
March 7, 2022
For too many years fashion designer Ann Lowe's work has gone uncredited, but Piper Huguley's utterly compelling novel celebrates her incredible designs and work in a gripping story as intricately detailed as one Lowe's gowns. Huguley is masterful in bringing Lowe's voice to life through her struggles and her triumphs. By Her Own Design is a must-read!
September 17, 2023
An inspiring story of Ann Lowe, a woman who overcame obstacles and prejudices to become a famous fashion designer for women on the social registry. Her journey truly was incredible, and I enjoyed learning her history, but partway through, I felt the book became repetitive and could have used a bit more editing.
3.5 stars.
3.5 stars.
July 21, 2022
I’ve been anticipating this book since I heard of it; I’m thrilled to say it delivered even more than I hoped it would and I sped through it.
I believe Piper Huguley has captured Ann Lowe’s voice with this book: innocent, curious, determined, expert, heartbroken, survivor. At the same time, it’s a great story, a story that is heartfelt, romantic, brave, and—I believe—as close to the full truth as possible. I loved all Lowe’s sayings, her comparisons and thoughts, and how she took many bits of hard news with a “Well,” and then got on with it. The book embodies the spirit of an amazing seamstress. I could not put the audiobook down as I cheered Lowe past one hurdle after another.
BHOD gives us a full-blown painting of the extreme difficulties of a Black woman’s life in the South and in the North. It shows us what happens when one person dreams, when another is kind, when the dreamer refuses to give up, time and again, and when she shows up, over and over. It helps inspire us to be better to our fellow human beings, to keep striving, to do more. There are many shocking happenings and the author unflinchingly shows us the hurts of racism, in a way that opens eyes to the truth of the past and inspires more of us to be better, do better.
This book will be a great summer read, but also just a great read, a great buddy read, a great book club read—there’s so much to take in and talk about.
Bravo Piper Huguley—By Her Own Design is a triumph. The narration is fantastic, too—really brings the times and characters alive.
PS. ****Somewhat of a spoiler****
Lowe designed Jaqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress—and wasn’t given credit, other than a mention that the seamstress was colored and not part of the haute couture. Ouch!! Yet the scenes with Jackie are poignant and beautiful; you will love them and they are perfect for the book. Because we love our tragic First Lady, it’s hard to imagine why she kept the secret. But if you consider the great lay off/replacement of many of the Black staff at the White House under the Kennedys, this book ultimately is likely too forgiving of Jackie. (See Adrian Miller’s wonderful The President’s Kitchen Cabinet). As much as we want her to be part of the civil rights movement, to always have had the kind of grace she exhibited in November of 1963, to simply be good, she was human and made mistakes.
I so wish Ann Lowe had been credited with her creations during her lifetime, instead of kept a society secret. I also understand why the book’s resolution of this matter was written the way it was, especially considering that Lowe credited the First Lady with the great kindness, as if she were making up for the past injustice. My guess is the Lee family, or Marjorie Post, or, most probably, the Kennedy family paid the tax bill (as in Bobby, rather than Jackie, and it smells of Joe, too, though he’d had his stroke when this happened), and not altruistically but as a cover-up against the scandal Lowe’s tax debt would have caused when the reporters connected it all. Also, they had to know that Lowe never cashed the ruined check for her fee; why didn’t they balance their books with a replacement? This would have helped Lowe financially, too. (Ok yes, the check could have been stolen and cashed in the debacle of the water leak, but I doubt it).
Ultimately, whoever came to Lowe’s rescue, this demonstrates how the US, as a whole!, has much to answer for. Also, Lowe’s voice is very forgiving, or at least not damning, of all the slights and wrongs and there are many—I think this is written true to her voice and how her generation dealt with racism—it is not a license to sugarcoat or forget what happened; rather, I hope it entices all of us to dig deeper and learn more. This book is one in a growing canon of books that make Black Historical Fiction one of my new favorite genres (for me, especially wonderful is the growth of books by and about Black women) —and with a WWII feeling—in the sense of needing to understand the full picture so that I can learn and help us not repeat history. Especially loving these books set in the 20th century. More of these books, please!
I believe Piper Huguley has captured Ann Lowe’s voice with this book: innocent, curious, determined, expert, heartbroken, survivor. At the same time, it’s a great story, a story that is heartfelt, romantic, brave, and—I believe—as close to the full truth as possible. I loved all Lowe’s sayings, her comparisons and thoughts, and how she took many bits of hard news with a “Well,” and then got on with it. The book embodies the spirit of an amazing seamstress. I could not put the audiobook down as I cheered Lowe past one hurdle after another.
BHOD gives us a full-blown painting of the extreme difficulties of a Black woman’s life in the South and in the North. It shows us what happens when one person dreams, when another is kind, when the dreamer refuses to give up, time and again, and when she shows up, over and over. It helps inspire us to be better to our fellow human beings, to keep striving, to do more. There are many shocking happenings and the author unflinchingly shows us the hurts of racism, in a way that opens eyes to the truth of the past and inspires more of us to be better, do better.
This book will be a great summer read, but also just a great read, a great buddy read, a great book club read—there’s so much to take in and talk about.
Bravo Piper Huguley—By Her Own Design is a triumph. The narration is fantastic, too—really brings the times and characters alive.
PS. ****Somewhat of a spoiler****
Lowe designed Jaqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress—and wasn’t given credit, other than a mention that the seamstress was colored and not part of the haute couture. Ouch!! Yet the scenes with Jackie are poignant and beautiful; you will love them and they are perfect for the book. Because we love our tragic First Lady, it’s hard to imagine why she kept the secret. But if you consider the great lay off/replacement of many of the Black staff at the White House under the Kennedys, this book ultimately is likely too forgiving of Jackie. (See Adrian Miller’s wonderful The President’s Kitchen Cabinet). As much as we want her to be part of the civil rights movement, to always have had the kind of grace she exhibited in November of 1963, to simply be good, she was human and made mistakes.
I so wish Ann Lowe had been credited with her creations during her lifetime, instead of kept a society secret. I also understand why the book’s resolution of this matter was written the way it was, especially considering that Lowe credited the First Lady with the great kindness, as if she were making up for the past injustice. My guess is the Lee family, or Marjorie Post, or, most probably, the Kennedy family paid the tax bill (as in Bobby, rather than Jackie, and it smells of Joe, too, though he’d had his stroke when this happened), and not altruistically but as a cover-up against the scandal Lowe’s tax debt would have caused when the reporters connected it all. Also, they had to know that Lowe never cashed the ruined check for her fee; why didn’t they balance their books with a replacement? This would have helped Lowe financially, too. (Ok yes, the check could have been stolen and cashed in the debacle of the water leak, but I doubt it).
Ultimately, whoever came to Lowe’s rescue, this demonstrates how the US, as a whole!, has much to answer for. Also, Lowe’s voice is very forgiving, or at least not damning, of all the slights and wrongs and there are many—I think this is written true to her voice and how her generation dealt with racism—it is not a license to sugarcoat or forget what happened; rather, I hope it entices all of us to dig deeper and learn more. This book is one in a growing canon of books that make Black Historical Fiction one of my new favorite genres (for me, especially wonderful is the growth of books by and about Black women) —and with a WWII feeling—in the sense of needing to understand the full picture so that I can learn and help us not repeat history. Especially loving these books set in the 20th century. More of these books, please!
May 17, 2024
Loved this book , although it was triggering for me. I could relate to trying to stick it out with an abusive husband and using needle and thread to try and keep food on the table for my kids, when all our money was going to wine, women, song and drugs.
I loved Anne’s attitude of perseverance, and not having a pity party for herself over anything. When she didn’t get the accolades for her work, she just dived into the next thing, always giving her best to the God-given talent she was blessed with. I too loved the belief she had in herself and her work. An inspiring read for sure!
I loved Anne’s attitude of perseverance, and not having a pity party for herself over anything. When she didn’t get the accolades for her work, she just dived into the next thing, always giving her best to the God-given talent she was blessed with. I too loved the belief she had in herself and her work. An inspiring read for sure!
June 5, 2022
I tend to rate books conservatively, but the fascinating novel, By Her Own Design by Piper Huguley, is well deserving of a 5-star rating. I could not put it down. It’s the story of the best kept secret in America’s high society. Ann Lowe, a black seamstress, with a distinctive taste of style that went against the day’s popular fashion dictates, rose to become the dress designer for the most influential women. I sped through the pages, from Ann’s young life of poverty in Alabama to the moment when she met Montgomery’s Southern belle Jacqueline Bouvier and earned the honor of designing the wedding gown of the future Mrs. John F. Kennedy. In Jackie, Ann Lowe recognized a woman who, much like herself, would experience joyful peaks and also deep valleys of sorrow throughout her life. But Jackie Kennedy was one who carried herself with style and never feared not fitting in. Piper Huguley has done an outstanding job of presenting the complex voices of those nearest Jackie Kennedy: her self-centered sister Lee, neglectful father John “Black Jack” Bouvier, and dominating father-in-law Joseph Kennedy.
But there have been so many books written about Jackie Kennedy, and it is time for this story, of Ann Lowe, of her struggles and her triumphs, and of the indignities and injustices she suffered. I love nothing better than reading about strong women with the ambition and the perseverance to fight for their own place in this world. What a wonderfully inspiring and uplifting book. Thank you to Piper Huguley, William Morrow and Company, and Goodreads for the advanced copy.
But there have been so many books written about Jackie Kennedy, and it is time for this story, of Ann Lowe, of her struggles and her triumphs, and of the indignities and injustices she suffered. I love nothing better than reading about strong women with the ambition and the perseverance to fight for their own place in this world. What a wonderfully inspiring and uplifting book. Thank you to Piper Huguley, William Morrow and Company, and Goodreads for the advanced copy.
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June 5, 2022An absolutely beautifully written and elegant novel that spotlights the contributions of a woman often lost to fashion history. I am looking forward to interviewing Piper on my fb live series later this month.
January 23, 2022
The story of the best kept secret in high society. By Her Own Design is the story of Ann Lowe, a black designer and granddaughter of slaves in Alabama, who designed the iconic wedding dress of Jacqueline Kennedy, First Lady of the United States.
The story begins a few days before Jacqueline Bouvier will marry John F. Kennedy Jr and a pipe has destroyed the wedding dress. We see Ann and her church sisters scrambling to recreate the dresses. Then we are taken back to learn more about Ann's early life in Alabama and her auspicious beginnings to fulfilling her dream in Tampa and then to New York City.
Whew! I finished this in hours. I started in the evening and finished up the next morning. I love historical fiction but I know that its success is based on the research of the writer and talent with which the author is able to weave the story together. Piper Huguley gave me a story that had my eyes glued, I became caught up in this remarkable woman's life. Ann Lowe had the raw talent and creativity but also the tenacity to overcome despite the challenges of her race during that time.
It is uplifting to read about African-Americans who rise above their circumstances and who were able to create a lasting legacy. Ann had so much sadness in her life but that didn't stop her from moving forward. Piper Huguley made me feel as if I were in that time--I felt every scene. Particularly when Ann went to Design School. How my heart ached and yet warmed at how Ann was determined to bloom wherever she was planted.
I absolutely loved this story and I can't wait to read more works like this from Piper Huguley. The author's note just showcased Piper's research and originality--where she added creative pieces that made this read wonderful. Well-written, easy flow and captivating descriptions. I believe readers will get many takeaways and will be lined up waiting for her next historical fiction work. And to think this all began with a tweet.
Thank you #Netgalley for this ARC.
The story begins a few days before Jacqueline Bouvier will marry John F. Kennedy Jr and a pipe has destroyed the wedding dress. We see Ann and her church sisters scrambling to recreate the dresses. Then we are taken back to learn more about Ann's early life in Alabama and her auspicious beginnings to fulfilling her dream in Tampa and then to New York City.
Whew! I finished this in hours. I started in the evening and finished up the next morning. I love historical fiction but I know that its success is based on the research of the writer and talent with which the author is able to weave the story together. Piper Huguley gave me a story that had my eyes glued, I became caught up in this remarkable woman's life. Ann Lowe had the raw talent and creativity but also the tenacity to overcome despite the challenges of her race during that time.
It is uplifting to read about African-Americans who rise above their circumstances and who were able to create a lasting legacy. Ann had so much sadness in her life but that didn't stop her from moving forward. Piper Huguley made me feel as if I were in that time--I felt every scene. Particularly when Ann went to Design School. How my heart ached and yet warmed at how Ann was determined to bloom wherever she was planted.
I absolutely loved this story and I can't wait to read more works like this from Piper Huguley. The author's note just showcased Piper's research and originality--where she added creative pieces that made this read wonderful. Well-written, easy flow and captivating descriptions. I believe readers will get many takeaways and will be lined up waiting for her next historical fiction work. And to think this all began with a tweet.
Thank you #Netgalley for this ARC.
September 1, 2022
4.5 Stars Rounded up
This was beautifully done!
I loved this so much.
This was rich with detail and settings.
The scenes were set beautifully and the narration on the audiobook was lovely.
This is a fictional account of the real Ann Lowe who was married at 12 and a mother at 15. Some of the details were harrowing.
I did not care for some of the 'good' white folk rhetoric. Especially since the author seemed to not focus on the rich white society ladies low balling Ms Lowe because she was Black and they could.
Living in someone's home as a full time live in servant I'm sure caused some friction or uneasiness, yet that's never even mentioned.
This is mostly a story of success.
This was beautifully done!
I loved this so much.
This was rich with detail and settings.
The scenes were set beautifully and the narration on the audiobook was lovely.
This is a fictional account of the real Ann Lowe who was married at 12 and a mother at 15. Some of the details were harrowing.
I did not care for some of the 'good' white folk rhetoric. Especially since the author seemed to not focus on the rich white society ladies low balling Ms Lowe because she was Black and they could.
Living in someone's home as a full time live in servant I'm sure caused some friction or uneasiness, yet that's never even mentioned.
This is mostly a story of success.
June 23, 2022
Not only did it legendary Black clothing designer Ann Lowe make Jacqueline Kennedy‘s wedding dress, most of her designs came straight out of her imagination. Very much influenced by her incredibly talented mother and grandmother, Ann had remarkable talent. Despite growing up at a time when the Jim Crow law was in full effect, and also being the grandchild of a former slave, Ann’s dreams of becoming a well-known designer were never far from her imagination.
Thanks to a wonderful benefactor, Ann gets the opportunity to further her education in fashion. In fact, having only completed the eighth grade going to any college was never something she ever expected. The fact that she married an abusive, alcoholic man at the age of 12 and mothered a son at the age of 16 did not stop Ann from being able to take this fabulous opportunity.
This book was equally heartbreaking and heartwarming. Heartbreaking in the fact that Ann went through more than most people should have at her tender age, but heartwarming as she fought for what she deserved despite her tender age and the prejudices that existed at that time.
Sometimes in our day and age we can forget how much of a fight people in the 1950s and 1960s experienced when it came to the lack of equality. This lack of equality was enforced as laws for Black American citizens. When Ann was able to go to design school, she was at first declined because of her race. But because of her talent, she was accepted, only to discover that she would be learning in a room that was not much more than a broom closet while the other students were in a real classroom with all of the expected benefits of an education in design. However, Ann thrived even in that environment.
Then we have Jacqueline Bouvier as a customer of Ann’s. This gave Ann the opportunity to design a very unique wedding dress, which brought her into contact with more and more elite clients. Sadly, she was not even given credit for creating that wedding dress. In fact, an article in the Ladies Home Journal called the designer “a colored dressmaker”. Ann faced many hardships over the years, including a terrible experience when a broken pipe ruined Jacqueline Bouvier’s wedding dress as well as several bridesmaids dresses, giving her less than two weeks to recreate these dresses.
This hard hitting book by Piper Huguely was a one-sitting read from cover to cover. The book was impossible to put down. Impossible not to feel for Ann. Impossible not to feel for countless Black Americans who experienced such hateful prejudice then, and now. Impossible not to feel for someone not being recognized for their talent. Impossible for many other reasons.
I just have to borrow a quote from a book I read months ago called My Seven Black Fathers by Will Jawando. He states in his book that “enthusiasm, eagerness, and a desire to be acknowledged for something positive – all qualities that were encouraged and rewarded in my white peers while they were discouraged and penalized in me…” I thought of Mr. Jawando‘s statement while reading this book because that’s exactly what Ann Lowe experienced during the course of her lifetime. In fact, now in 2022, I still experience this same phenomenon of not being allowed to excel, and this is at least, in part, because of the color of my skin.
Kudos to Miss Huguely for writing such an amazing book that brings notability to a woman forgotten and hidden in American history. She did tremendous research and even referred to several reputable sources, as well as an excellent YouTube video that I was able to watch, and that I will also link in this review.
Many thanks to William Morrow & Company and to NetGalley for this ARC for review. This is my honest opinion.
Please also enjoy my YouTube video review - https://youtu.be/4HMDv-dvwPk
Thanks to a wonderful benefactor, Ann gets the opportunity to further her education in fashion. In fact, having only completed the eighth grade going to any college was never something she ever expected. The fact that she married an abusive, alcoholic man at the age of 12 and mothered a son at the age of 16 did not stop Ann from being able to take this fabulous opportunity.
This book was equally heartbreaking and heartwarming. Heartbreaking in the fact that Ann went through more than most people should have at her tender age, but heartwarming as she fought for what she deserved despite her tender age and the prejudices that existed at that time.
Sometimes in our day and age we can forget how much of a fight people in the 1950s and 1960s experienced when it came to the lack of equality. This lack of equality was enforced as laws for Black American citizens. When Ann was able to go to design school, she was at first declined because of her race. But because of her talent, she was accepted, only to discover that she would be learning in a room that was not much more than a broom closet while the other students were in a real classroom with all of the expected benefits of an education in design. However, Ann thrived even in that environment.
Then we have Jacqueline Bouvier as a customer of Ann’s. This gave Ann the opportunity to design a very unique wedding dress, which brought her into contact with more and more elite clients. Sadly, she was not even given credit for creating that wedding dress. In fact, an article in the Ladies Home Journal called the designer “a colored dressmaker”. Ann faced many hardships over the years, including a terrible experience when a broken pipe ruined Jacqueline Bouvier’s wedding dress as well as several bridesmaids dresses, giving her less than two weeks to recreate these dresses.
This hard hitting book by Piper Huguely was a one-sitting read from cover to cover. The book was impossible to put down. Impossible not to feel for Ann. Impossible not to feel for countless Black Americans who experienced such hateful prejudice then, and now. Impossible not to feel for someone not being recognized for their talent. Impossible for many other reasons.
I just have to borrow a quote from a book I read months ago called My Seven Black Fathers by Will Jawando. He states in his book that “enthusiasm, eagerness, and a desire to be acknowledged for something positive – all qualities that were encouraged and rewarded in my white peers while they were discouraged and penalized in me…” I thought of Mr. Jawando‘s statement while reading this book because that’s exactly what Ann Lowe experienced during the course of her lifetime. In fact, now in 2022, I still experience this same phenomenon of not being allowed to excel, and this is at least, in part, because of the color of my skin.
Kudos to Miss Huguely for writing such an amazing book that brings notability to a woman forgotten and hidden in American history. She did tremendous research and even referred to several reputable sources, as well as an excellent YouTube video that I was able to watch, and that I will also link in this review.
Many thanks to William Morrow & Company and to NetGalley for this ARC for review. This is my honest opinion.
Please also enjoy my YouTube video review - https://youtu.be/4HMDv-dvwPk
August 30, 2022
A remarkable story about Ann Cole Lowe, an African American seamstress who sewed her way up the ranks of designer from debutants to Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress. Some of her dresses are in the African American museum and Smithsonian.
The first quarter of the book was mundane, but so glad I stuck with it as it actually impacted her life, her fight, her story. Read extra about it and just amazed at her tenacity. https://prologue.blogs.archives.gov/2...
The first quarter of the book was mundane, but so glad I stuck with it as it actually impacted her life, her fight, her story. Read extra about it and just amazed at her tenacity. https://prologue.blogs.archives.gov/2...
June 15, 2024
By Her Own Design is the fictionalized biography of fashion designer, Anne Lowe, an incredible woman forgotten by history. Until now. Taught to sew by her mother and grandmother, Anne demonstrated an interest in fashion design from a young age. As a youngster, her special talent involved making fabric flowers (which she turned into a little business). In an effort to grow up quickly and be taken seriously by her family, she married at twelve. Sadly, this was an abusive marriage and Anne along with her baby left and ended up in Florida as a result of significant encouragement from a wealthy white woman. In Florida,, Anne sewed for the family and gained a reputation with the wealthy society ladies. The story follows Anne’s professional and personal life through many ups and downs as she persevered through a few difficult circumstances and setbacks. Anne was “society’s best kept secret” but this also meant that she didn’t receive the recognition or financial rewards that she deserved. Even designing Jacqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress didn’t bring the notoriety she yearned for. Anne’s faith in God sustained her, and designing dresses brought her immense pleasure and filled her heart with joy. It’s tragic that she didn’t receive the recognition she deserved in her lifetime because of the color of her skin.
I found the story of Anne Lowe interesting and compelling for many reasons. For example, despite racism and prejudice, her circumstances, and life’s obstacles, she persevered. At times through creativity and following Plan B and other times through sheer determination. Also, she was devoted to her young son while pursuing her goals. Many of the decisions she made were made with him in mind. She moved, in part, to New York so that he could attend better schools, and she saved money relentlessly for his college education. Anne Lowe had many reasons to be bitter, but she continually rose above that temptation. Overall, the author characterized Anne as a competent, gifted, and thoughtful woman of faith whom we can admire. She was forward thinking despite hardships and disappointment. I found all these aspects of the story compelling.
Women today can have it all, but this wasn’t always true. Often, a woman in the past had to decide which path to follow. Marriage/Family or Career. Anne’s first husband married someone who would take care of him and always be home. He was also abusive, so she didn’t stay long. Husband number two was a better person and was not abusive, but he also became increasing dissatisfied with Anne’s long hours and devotion to her career. I think they loved each other but she also loved her career and he wanted a more traditional marriage. Even though both husbands knew before marriage that Anne had dreams of her own, they were jealous, felt neglected, and could not cope with Anne”s ambition. Dual career marriages are more common today, but there are still tensions and negotiations to manage. I imagine that this might be a good book club discussion topic!
I admire an author’s ability to land the ending….in this case to make something thoughtful and beautiful out of the difficult and challenging. My favorite quote (see next paragraph) is taken from the ending..In this heartfelt conclusion, the author truly gives Anne Lowe the honorable recognition she deserves.
Favorite Quote
Some readers might label the white people that helped Anne along the way as “white saviors.” According to this fictionalized account, Anne did not see them this way. In this quote, she speaks of her appreciation for the woman who first saw her and recognized her talent:
“It took one person, one lady with a good heart to see who I was and what I could do in this world…To give me a chance…Mrs. Josephine Lee, my benefactor, helped me, a young woman in a bad marriage with a baby to get out of Alabama. And I knew from that moment when she gave me a $20 bill to buy a train ticket to get from Alabama to Tampa, that the way she had seen me and treated me is the way we should all see and treat one another. For to be able to see someone, to see them as a human being, to see them for what they can contribute to this world, to be a light, to be a force, or an influence in someone else’s life is all that we need….For all of my life…I thought that what I wanted was to be at one of these lovely dinner dances. Now that I’m here, I know that the main thing about this is not the dinner and it’s not the fashion show, it’s that I know that you SEE me, you See what I’ve tried to do all of these years…I see you too.”
Content Consideration: abusive relationship, loss (death of an adult child) and grief, racism/prejudice
I hope you can tell that By My Own Design captivated me. I have the highest praise for authors who find the untold stories. I offer my enthusiastic recommendation for readers who appreciate fictionalized biographies about real-life inspirational women. The beginning of the story is difficult reading as twelve-year-old Anne marries someone twice her age. However, if you enjoy themes of beating the odds, self determination, and pursuing your dreams, you will love this heartfelt and riveting story. Thanks to my IRL Book Club for putting this on my reading radar.
For more reviews visit my blog www.ReadingLadies.com where this review was first published.
I found the story of Anne Lowe interesting and compelling for many reasons. For example, despite racism and prejudice, her circumstances, and life’s obstacles, she persevered. At times through creativity and following Plan B and other times through sheer determination. Also, she was devoted to her young son while pursuing her goals. Many of the decisions she made were made with him in mind. She moved, in part, to New York so that he could attend better schools, and she saved money relentlessly for his college education. Anne Lowe had many reasons to be bitter, but she continually rose above that temptation. Overall, the author characterized Anne as a competent, gifted, and thoughtful woman of faith whom we can admire. She was forward thinking despite hardships and disappointment. I found all these aspects of the story compelling.
Women today can have it all, but this wasn’t always true. Often, a woman in the past had to decide which path to follow. Marriage/Family or Career. Anne’s first husband married someone who would take care of him and always be home. He was also abusive, so she didn’t stay long. Husband number two was a better person and was not abusive, but he also became increasing dissatisfied with Anne’s long hours and devotion to her career. I think they loved each other but she also loved her career and he wanted a more traditional marriage. Even though both husbands knew before marriage that Anne had dreams of her own, they were jealous, felt neglected, and could not cope with Anne”s ambition. Dual career marriages are more common today, but there are still tensions and negotiations to manage. I imagine that this might be a good book club discussion topic!
I admire an author’s ability to land the ending….in this case to make something thoughtful and beautiful out of the difficult and challenging. My favorite quote (see next paragraph) is taken from the ending..In this heartfelt conclusion, the author truly gives Anne Lowe the honorable recognition she deserves.
Favorite Quote
Some readers might label the white people that helped Anne along the way as “white saviors.” According to this fictionalized account, Anne did not see them this way. In this quote, she speaks of her appreciation for the woman who first saw her and recognized her talent:
“It took one person, one lady with a good heart to see who I was and what I could do in this world…To give me a chance…Mrs. Josephine Lee, my benefactor, helped me, a young woman in a bad marriage with a baby to get out of Alabama. And I knew from that moment when she gave me a $20 bill to buy a train ticket to get from Alabama to Tampa, that the way she had seen me and treated me is the way we should all see and treat one another. For to be able to see someone, to see them as a human being, to see them for what they can contribute to this world, to be a light, to be a force, or an influence in someone else’s life is all that we need….For all of my life…I thought that what I wanted was to be at one of these lovely dinner dances. Now that I’m here, I know that the main thing about this is not the dinner and it’s not the fashion show, it’s that I know that you SEE me, you See what I’ve tried to do all of these years…I see you too.”
Content Consideration: abusive relationship, loss (death of an adult child) and grief, racism/prejudice
I hope you can tell that By My Own Design captivated me. I have the highest praise for authors who find the untold stories. I offer my enthusiastic recommendation for readers who appreciate fictionalized biographies about real-life inspirational women. The beginning of the story is difficult reading as twelve-year-old Anne marries someone twice her age. However, if you enjoy themes of beating the odds, self determination, and pursuing your dreams, you will love this heartfelt and riveting story. Thanks to my IRL Book Club for putting this on my reading radar.
For more reviews visit my blog www.ReadingLadies.com where this review was first published.
April 12, 2025
Great historical account of the incredibly talented woman who made Jackie Kennedy's wedding dress! Worth reading!
July 20, 2022
This was very interesting reading Ann's journey through her life, one where all she wanted to do was sew dresses. I liked that along the way she found people to encourage and help her, that she achieved her dreams, despite often being held back and circumstances. I also loved that she went out knowing that she was loved as a person and for her designs.
May 30, 2022
A historical fiction about another woman who has remained not only in the shadows, but in a closet - literally. Ann Lowe was told to listen in on her NYC design school classes from a cloak room at the back of a classroom, the instructor believing the other students (all white) wouldn't want a black woman sitting next to them. Piper G Huguley shares Ann's story as the granddaughter of an Alabama slave who never gives up on her dream of her own fashion label with her name prominently sewn into her one-of-a-kind designs. It's wedding season. Celebrate it with the beautifully written By Her Own Design, coming out June 7.
I received a NetGalley advance copy in exchange for my honest review.
I received a NetGalley advance copy in exchange for my honest review.
September 18, 2023
3.5 stars for this well-imagined account of the life of Ann Lowe. A good read. Really glad that a member of my book club suggested this one and look forward to our discussion about it.
July 11, 2022
In By Her Own Design, the life of Black fashion designer Ann Lowe is brought to vivid life. Beginning when Ann is a young girl sewing flowers from fabric scraps in Jim Crow Alabama, dreaming of creating elegant gowns like her mother and formerly enslaved grandmother, the book follows Ann's at times tumultuous and at times exultant life as she grows and builds a reputation as a premiere designer for the 1950s and 60s social register.
Ann's accomplishments are truly remarkable given the breathtaking amounts of racism she experienced (such as being required to take all her classes at design school in a separate room from her white classmates). With the help of both some kind white people, who acknowledged her tremendous talent, and her loving family, Ann was able to have several shops at different times and in different parts of New York City, and to famously go on and design Jacqueline Kennedy's wedding dress (as well as countless other gowns for other notable events and prestigious people).
Piper Huguley's writing and pacing are pitch-perfect, and the ending tremendously satisfying. The narrative she assembles of Ann's life is both intimate and exciting, narrated to perfection by Tracey Conyer Lee, who brings great Southern soul (as well as a wonderful turn at the New York and Boston accents of the Kennedys). I couldn't wait to learn what would happen next! I also never for a second doubted that Ann was a true artist. Huguley really captured this in her portrayal of Ann, an artist's unique mind and impassioned way of viewing the world and the subjects of her work. The descriptions of all the dresses are so intricate and loving. I don't know much about fashion, but I really felt like I was seeing them through the eyes of someone for whom this kind of work was second nature, as well as a compulsion that could never be denied. By Her Own Design is a triumph of biographical historical fiction. Five enthusiastic stars!
Ann's accomplishments are truly remarkable given the breathtaking amounts of racism she experienced (such as being required to take all her classes at design school in a separate room from her white classmates). With the help of both some kind white people, who acknowledged her tremendous talent, and her loving family, Ann was able to have several shops at different times and in different parts of New York City, and to famously go on and design Jacqueline Kennedy's wedding dress (as well as countless other gowns for other notable events and prestigious people).
Piper Huguley's writing and pacing are pitch-perfect, and the ending tremendously satisfying. The narrative she assembles of Ann's life is both intimate and exciting, narrated to perfection by Tracey Conyer Lee, who brings great Southern soul (as well as a wonderful turn at the New York and Boston accents of the Kennedys). I couldn't wait to learn what would happen next! I also never for a second doubted that Ann was a true artist. Huguley really captured this in her portrayal of Ann, an artist's unique mind and impassioned way of viewing the world and the subjects of her work. The descriptions of all the dresses are so intricate and loving. I don't know much about fashion, but I really felt like I was seeing them through the eyes of someone for whom this kind of work was second nature, as well as a compulsion that could never be denied. By Her Own Design is a triumph of biographical historical fiction. Five enthusiastic stars!
August 29, 2022
Spectacular writing! Piper Huguley BECAME Ms.Anne Lowe! It was equivalent to the way Jamie Foxx embodied Ray Charles, or how Will Smith essentially transformed into Mohammad Ali. I’m still not convinced Ann didn’t write this herself, it really read like we were in her brain. She had such a passion for dressmaking, I mean all she wanted to do was sew and shawty just kept getting hit after hit, my goodness. I’m like I know this is based on real life but can she catch a break please?? And then you get to the end of a chapter and the last sentence is a cliffhanger/spoiler, and you’re like wait what just happened? At that point you have no choice but to keep going! I probably would’ve been done sooner but I kept googling her dresses and what was fact vs embellished fiction. Highly recommend. I feel so cultured after having read this *pinky up*
March 23, 2024
I cannot say enough of how this novel was inspiring to me. I so appreciate the depth of what was written from the very start of Ann’s life through all that she and her family accomplished. I felt as if I was sitting center front of all that happened and I was cheering for everybody. The attention to detail was amazing. And the story kept me captive. I so appreciate Ms Piper Huguley’s attention to detail the passion and the determination lived by the people in this story. It shined through!
I do look forward to future novels. I will now read by this author. .
I do look forward to future novels. I will now read by this author. .
November 11, 2022
4.75/5 stars. I tried to get the ARC of this book but when I didn't get it, I went out and bought a copy, and I'm SO glad I did. You can read my full #bookreview of this book on my blog here. https://tcl-bookreviews.com/2022/11/1...
September 29, 2025
Such an interesting & well told story about dreams & determination. I loved learning about Lowe, her background, her very clear vision for her designs, how she grew her business, the clients she designed for, the people she loved. She overcame a lot of obstacles and deserved more respect than she was given. Although important to Lowe’s story, the Kennedy wedding was actually a very small part of the story.
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