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256 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2009
Outside, the curfewed night lay in its silence like a man waiting in ambush.For Kashmiris, the nights are terrible. They have to be inside by sundown, or be prey to the stray bullets which can start flying any time in your friendly neighbourhood. And inside the house, they have to be extra careful that no light or sound escapes outside. Even then, there may come the dreaded knock at the door in the middle of the night - it may be armed militants asking for shelter, or the army looking for militants. And whatever they do, the night may end in torture, rape or death.
'Nehru and Gandhi studied law in England and both were very good writers. You have seen their books in our library. Vaclav Havel is a very big writer. The Dalai Lama has read a lot and can teach so many things to people. None of them used guns but they changed history. If you want to do something for Kashmir, I would say you should read.'Weaned of his revolutionary tendencies (at least for the time being), the author finished his schooling and went away to Delhi, for college and a career in the civil services. In the capital city, he came to realise two things very fast. One: 'India' was totally different from what he had thought it to be - multi-hued and multi-voiced, it was a pluralistic, vibrant country and not the evil occupying force Kashmiris considered it to be. Two: as a Kashmiri, he was persona non grata mostly everywhere, especially after the 2003 parliament attack by Kashmiri militants. Soon, he left his ambitions for government service and became a journalist.
I fought my tears; after months of suspicion I was being welcomed and treated with respect. 'Go get your bags,' she said. I returned with my bags in an hour and she showed me my room. Over an empty bed hung a picture of Ganesha. 'Shall I take it off?' she asked. It stayed.)
Srinagar is a medieval city dying in a modern war. it is empty streets, locked shops, angry soldiers and boys with stones. It is several thousand military bunkers, four golf courses, and three bookshops. It is wily politicians repeating their lies about war and peace to television cameras and small crowds gathered by the promise of an elusive job or a daily fee of a few hundred rupees. It is stopping at sidewalks and traffic lights when the convoys of rulers and their patrons in armoured cars, secured by machine guns, rumble on broken roads. It is staring back or looking away, resigned. Srinagar is never winning and never being defeated.Basharat travelled the length and breadth of Kashmir, collecting and telling stories of Kashmiris - Hindus, Muslims, militants, informers, secular revolutionaries, poets... and the picture that emerges is heart-breaking. We have the tale of youngsters tortured, some with reason and some without - of men being unable to lead normal sexual lives because of the shock treatments their penises have been subject to. We have the tale of a bride, raped hours after her wedding by Indian soldiers. We have the tale of a poet who stopped writing when he lost all his family in a militant attack. We hear about ancient temples and monuments, either destroyed by militants or converted to army installations. And in this chaos, we also have tales of friendship, of humanity, stretching across divides of state and religion.