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288 pages, Hardcover
First published January 1, 2023
In the night streets of Mehrauli, hands will now be shaping an elastic yeasty dough and slapping one flatbread after the other onto the insides of tandoors improvised from oil drums and aglow with live coals, and then fishing out each puffed-up piece with a hooked rod and flinging it into baskets piled high. Other hands will be laying on embers the skewered, marinated meat, and fanning the flames so that spark light the faces of the men who crowd around tearing the hot flesh and eating soundlessly, quickly, unemotionally.
He held his muslin pouch above the hot kadhai and spun a twisting thread of white batter into the oil. A chain of loops and curls and rings formed there, floating on the oil and sizzling gently as it went from white to gold […] The halvai took up a slotted ladle and scooped the golden chain out of the oil. He placed it on a mesh and let the oil drain into a second kadhai. Then he seized the ring and plunged them into a bowl of syrup. When the jalebis had plumped up, but before they had lost their crispness, the halvai broke, the halwai broke off the three rings and pressed on them a tissue of beaten silver […]