“If I had to eat only in one city for the rest of my life, Tokyo would be it. Most chefs I know would agree with me.” – Anthony Bourdain.
I would have to agree with Anthony Bourdain and the chefs here. As someone who was born in Japan, even though I am not Japanese, I continue to have a love for Japanese food, and have developed a passion for what food represents for them. Through transforming nature into culture, Japanese food represents more than the mundane ‘facts of life’ but a sense of cultural tradition and identity. Each section of the memoir represents 24 Japanese ‘sekki’ or seasons, as Japanese food culture emphasises the use of ingredients that are in season. This compares greatly to a globalised food system that delivers products, without much regard for the month of the year.
I loved this book because the author explores her connection to two worlds: her paternal British heritage and her maternal Japanese heritage. She describes the complexity of growing up as mixed heritage, as she exists between ‘two worlds.’ The structure of her memoir comprises of anecdotes and food memories from each side of her family, interspersed with recipes, mostly from the dishes her Japanese mother made for her as a child.
These recipes include, Shiojake (salt cured salmon), Okonomiyaki (Japanese style pancake) and Kabocha no nimono (simmered Japanese pumpkin). I’m inspired to make these dishes for myself now.
As the author concludes, despite the loss and grief of her Japanese relatives, and moving to South Australia to live, there is one constant that remains and sustains her connection to her Japanese heritage: that is her rice, her meshi.