An entertaining history of Lisbon, Portugal it wasn’t especially thematic but instead joined “up the dots between past and present in an enlightening and entertaining way” and wasn’t a “linear, historical narrative culled from dusty archives.”
The brief introduction noted that while Lisbon certainly has “emblematic national treasures, such as St. George’s Castle and the Jerónimos Monastery” “Lisbon’s special appeal lies elsewhere”:
“There is an afterglow of Lisbon’s imperial history, when the city was the nerve centre for Portugal’s extensive colonial possessions in Africa, South America and the Orient. That cosmopolitan legacy endows Lisbon with an intriguing exotic flavour that is unique in Europe.”
In addition to being the “Morocco of Europe” Lisbon is “down-to-earth, charming and close” and “unpretentious.”
Chapter 1, “Triple Attraction,” talks about the overall physical characteristics of the city, why a city was founded there, discusses Phoenician and Roman pasts, and gives the reader a tour of the Alfama neighborhood of Lisbon, a “relic” and “the medieval city preserved in miniature” not unlike how all of Lisbon was in say the 16th century (though the author noted it was “increasingly gentrified”). Chapter 2, “A Different Country, A Different Capital,” discussed the origins of Portugal, the conquest of Lisbon from Muslim rule in the Siege of Lisbon (1147), the distinct musical style known as fado (born in Lisbon, in the Mouraria district), several famous fado singers (Maria Severa Onofriana also known as Severa as well as Amália Rodrigues, a 20th century singer who became “the first fado diva”); the author definitely meant what they wrote when they said the book wasn’t linear. Chapter 3, “Golden Years,” centers on the Portuguese voyages of discovery and conquest, how for a time in Lisbon “it rained money” and “Portugal went from European minnow to big fish.” Lots of coverage of King Manuel I whose construction of the Paço da Ribeira (Riverside Palace) “set off an urban revolution in the early 1500s.” Also, discussion of Jerónimos Monastery (upon completion, “the city’s most important religious monument”) and Torre de Belém (Belém Tower), noting how it is representative of the Manueline style of architecture and also was the site where the first Portuguese flight from Lisbon to Rio de Janeiro began (in 1922, with pilot Artur de Sacadura Cabral and navigator Carlos Gago Coutinho). Also, discussion of the Portuguese Inquisition and how from 1580 to 1640 Lisbon “went from seat of the royal court and glorified capital of empire to provincial Iberian city” under Spain. Chapter 4, “The African Connection,” discussed the slave trade in Lisbon (“The Portuguese were the world’s biggest slavers”), the arrival of the first African slaves in Lisbon (in 1444), Portuguese abolitionists most notably Viscount Sá da Bandeira, prominent Afro-Portuguese such as Ricardo Chibanga (“believed to have been the first black matador”), José Tomás de Sousa Martins (famous 19th century doctor), and Mário Domingues (“respected journalist, historian, novelist and essayist”), Portugal’s legacy in Africa (first to arrive, last to leave basically among European colonial powers), and the lasting legacy of African culture in Lisbon. Chapter 5, “Catastrophe,” was on the All Saint’s Day 1755 Earthquake in Lisbon, describing in detail the terrible calamity that claimed thousands of lives, destroyed so many famed buildings and irreplaceable works of art, and the remarkable story of disaster relief and recovery and then modernized rebuilding, centering on Marquês de Pombal, “a towering figure in Lisbon and Portugal’s history” and “a Portuguese version of France’s Cardinal Richelieu.” Chapter 6, “Foreign Rule, Turmoil, and Temptation,” was how the 1800s was a “wretched century” for Portugal, as Lisbon endured “the flight of the royal family and ruling class [from the French, going to Brazil], the loss off its status as capital city…occupation by a foreign army…five coups, two revolutions, two military rebellions, a civil war, and national bankruptcy.” “The nineteenth’s century’s identifying feature was turmoil.” Chapter 7, “A Tale of Two Bridges,” tells the story of 20th century Lisbon, including the assassination of King Carlos in 1908, the 5 October 1910 Revolution and the creation of the First Portuguese Republic, the rise and reign of António Salazar, Lisbon in World War II (some interesting passages on how it was “spyland”), the Carnation Revolution of 25 April 1974, and the early years of Lisbon’s transition to democracy with some focus on Portuguese communist Álvaro Cunhal and prime minster and president Mário Soares. Lots of architecture, particularly focusing on Porfirio Pardal Monteiro and Duarte Pacheco, whose footprint is felt everywhere in Lisbon today even if Salazar, their boss, had his presence “scrubbed from the city’s history,” a man who “has been put in a box in the attic.” Also, nice coverage of the great poet Fernando Pessoa, who “is to Lisbon what James Joyce is to Dublin and Franz Kafka is to Prague.”
Has a section of plates mostly in color, several nice maps, and an index.