Tim Spector's book comes in the Ben Goldacre tradition of skewering commonly-held but scientifically unproven claims - in this case in the world of food advice and diets. Right off the bat I will state categorically that everyone ought to read this book. It offers a powerful and often accurate challenge to a whole host of misinformation we are (ahem) fed by the food industry, governments and academics.
Let's take a couple of examples where the book really is at its best. Spector discusses the incredibly confusing and mostly scientifically ungrounded world of pregnancy food guidelines. He notes a range of incongruous contradictions in advice: in the UK and US, for instance, pregnant women are encouraged to avoid eggs, particularly raw eggs, at all costs while in the Philippines, meanwhile, they are actively encouraged to eat them. Similarly in Japan women eat sushi while raw fish is frowned upon elsewhere. Such examples, at a basic level, encourage a scepticism in the reader at blanket, dogmatic guidelines that is extremely valuable. Spector goes on to point out the things that do matter during pregnancy, notably the question of weight gain: far from being common that women gain too little weight (the 'eating for two' myth) excessive weight gain is more concerning. This leads to the conclusion that instead of focussing on a handful of foods that marginally increase the risks of already rare diseases, doctors would be better off taking a wider view of pregnant women's diet and focussing attention there.
In a similar vein, Spector spends a wonderful two chapters reeling off the evidence around food allergies (particularly of the gluten kind). He opens his allergy chapter with a discussion of a study of Americans, showing that only half of those self-reporting as allergy sufferers had a demonstrable food allergy. The author also draws enlightening comparisons with other diseases: while people fret about the risk of anaphylactic reactions (killing 10 people per year in the UK) far fewer understand the much greater risks from common allergies like asthma (killing 1,400 per year). This matters because parents are increasingly forcing restrictive diets on children, partly through fear of perceived allergies, leading to a possibly uptick in malnourished young people as a result.
The gluten chapter similarly describes much interesting work investigating the actual prevalence of gluten intolerance: a study in Italy of 392 self-reported sufferers revealed that 8 in 10 had no adverse reactions to gluten or wheat. As in the chapter on pregnancy, the aim of such discussion is to encourage scepticism in the reader, both in advice they receive but also in what they perceive about themselves. Spector encourages the reader to experiment. If you think you are gluten intolerant, perform an actual test: remove gluten for three weeks and then reintroduce it for three weeks to test its impact. And repeat the test in future. As so often in this book, the message is to try not to limit your diet unnecessarily - particularly not to more processed foods like those in the free-from isle - so testing whether your allergy may have disappeared (as can be the case for milk and egg allergies for instance, which often disappear after a few years) is crucial to ensuring your diet remains as varied and rich as possible.
This, as I said, is the book at its best. Unfortunately, the book falls down in a number of ways too, meaning it cannot attain the status of a truly great popular science book. One of the great points about this book is the author's willingness to tell the reader about studies and describe their pros and cons. Typically, studies are small, under-powered and far from conclusive (hence we should all be sceptical about food guidelines) and Spector rightly highlights this. However, he himself utilises exceptionally small studies to make his own points, borrowing from the arsenal of the food industry he criticises so much, and goes on to make extremely strong statements that are not backed up by evidence he has just described. A great example of this is in the sweeteners chapter. After referring to a study that itself critiqued the limitations of other studies into artificially sweetened beverages, Spector makes use of a study of only 15 people in a discussion on why diet soft drinks may not help with weight loss. He goes on to note (rightly) that there is a "lack of human data" but on the very next page makes the extremely strong statement that "all the evidence suggests that artificially sweetened beverages are far from inert and are definitely not a healthy substitute for sugar in drinks or other processed food products". This is an extraordinarily strong claim and is precisely the sort of thing that, elsewhere in the book, the author criticises governments and the food industry for doing. Such moves undermine confidence in the author - who, ironically, has implanted just the kind of scientific scepticism in the reader that should have them questioning such claims.
Elsewhere in this chapter, Spector falls into a few more traps which seriously grated: throughout the book he refers to chemicals being added to foods in a negative, sometimes near hysterical way (in the sweeteners discussion he states without evidence that "stevia will soon be added to nearly every type of processed food"). But on the topic of stevia (a plant, not a lab-created monstrosity) the author has to change tac to maintain his anti-sweetener stance, disingenuously pointing out that just being a plant doesn't make Stevia healthy in the same way as the poisonous hemlock wouldn't make a great addition to our diets. A similar move in the discussion of diet and pregnant women is drawing a line between the 20 pregnant women in the UK who contract listeriosis and the thousands who die in car crashes. This is clearly spurious: pregnant women may well want to eliminate their likelihood of ingesting listeria by cutting out cheese but are unlikely to be able to cease driving their cars entirely.
Such sleights of hand let down the book and do not belong in a work that rightly hammers others for both misuse of scientific evidence as well as utilising marketing and spin (which drawing analogies between stevia and hemlock surely counts as) rather than facts to sell their products.
Another issue is that Spector often helps the reader to develop a much more nuanced and fact-based understanding of something but then risks throwing out all our understanding with the proverbial bath water. In the chapter on calories, Spector makes a number of extremely important claims - that calorie labels are often plain wrong; that not all calories are equal; that food preparation and food interactions can alter our actual calorie intake. These all hit at the heart of simplistic diet approaches and are potent arguments against naive calorie counting.
However, Spector takes this too far, inveigling us to discard calorie information entirely. I reject Spector's seeming conclusion that calorie data have zero informative content. I think his messages are right: take calorie numbers with a huge pinch of salt and do not be beholden to them because of their many limitations, focussing attentions on a good diet rather than targeting a potentially erroneous number of calories per day. But to disregard these numbers entirely is going too far, losing a potentially valuable tool (among many) in our ongoing fight to be healthy. To give just one example of a use case: you have decided to treat yourself to a burger from a fast food restaurant. I see nothing scientifically un-principled about opting for the burger with 200 fewer calories to be a little bit better to yourself.
Last but not least, the whole book was soured by my uneasy suspicion that so much of what I was reading about the motives of the food industry to sell us diet-free fad products or other gimmicks was a flaw the author was guilty of too. The breakout star of the book is undoubtedly the gut microbiome - the hundreds of trillions of bacteria, fungi, viruses and other assorted things we generally don't have positive thoughts about that live in our intestine and, a growing body of research has shown, contribute hugely to our digestion and health. None of this is revolutionary; the microbiome has been 'sexy' in the academic world for a good few years now. And the clear relevance to diet makes this a worthwhile thing to discuss in the context of dispelling diet myths. Many times in the book the author's TwinsUK study is cited, noting the surprising differences between identical twins that is often traced back to differences in the gut microbiome.
But, for all the evidence provided I couldn't ignore the fact that Tim Spector founded a start-up called Zoe - which, among other things, offers tests of your microbiome to give you diet advice. A mid-2019 FT article indicates the company at that time had raised $27 million - and as the founder Prof Spector is likely to have benefited handsomely from this and from any future success should the company grow substantially, go public or be bought by one of the food industry titans. The author raises this company at the beginning of the book but doesn't, curiously enough, flag it as a clear conflict of interest. In short, I'm all for academics commercialising their work. But in a book that presents itself as a squeeky-clean defender of the true against the corrupting, compromised food industry and their bought-and-paid-for government stooges, it is unfortunate that the author spends so much time highlighting a technology he may well financially benefit from.
In the end this book taught me a lot and is a very worthwhile read to support everyone's food education. What I would not be surprised to see in ten or twenty years time, however, is that the gut microbiome focus of the author - and crucially attempts to commercialise it as a diet or wellbeing tool - is just another overly simplistic attempt to profit from confused consumers seeking answers.