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Agave Spirits: The Past, Present, and Future of Mezcals
“A manifesto…[and] a positive spin on the future of mezcal.” —Florence Fabricant, New York Times
The agave plant was never destined to become tasteless, cheap tequila.
All tequilas are mezcals; all mezcals are made from agaves; and every bottle of mezcal is the remarkable result of collaborations among agave entrepreneurs, botanists, distillers, beverage distributors, bartenders, and more. How these groups come together in this “spirits world” is the subject of this fascinating new book by the acclaimed ethnobotanist Gary Paul Nabhan and the pioneering restauranteur David Suro Piñera. Join them as they delight in the diversity of the distillate agave spirits, as they endeavor to track down the more distant kin in the family of agaves, and as, along the way, they reveal the stunning innovations that have been transforming the industry around tequilas and mezcals in recent decades.
The result of the authors’ fieldwork and on-the-ground interviews with mezcaleros in eight Mexican states, Agave Spirits shows how traditional methods of mezcal production are inspiring a new generation of individuals, including women, both in and beyond the industry. And as they reach back into a rich, centuries-long history, Nabhan and Suro Piñera make clear that understanding the story behind a bottle of mezcal, more than any other drink, will not only reveal what lies ahead for the tradition—including its ability to adapt in the face of the climate crisis—but will also enrich the drinking experience for readers.
Essential reading for mezcal connoisseurs and amateurs interested in unlocking the past of a delightful distillate, Agave Spirits tells the tale of the most flavorful and memorable spirits humankind has ever sipped and savored.
Featuring twelve illustrations by René Alejandro Hernández Tapia and indices that list common and scientific names for agave species, as well as the names of plants, animals, and domesticated agaves used in the production of distillates.
The agave plant was never destined to become tasteless, cheap tequila.
All tequilas are mezcals; all mezcals are made from agaves; and every bottle of mezcal is the remarkable result of collaborations among agave entrepreneurs, botanists, distillers, beverage distributors, bartenders, and more. How these groups come together in this “spirits world” is the subject of this fascinating new book by the acclaimed ethnobotanist Gary Paul Nabhan and the pioneering restauranteur David Suro Piñera. Join them as they delight in the diversity of the distillate agave spirits, as they endeavor to track down the more distant kin in the family of agaves, and as, along the way, they reveal the stunning innovations that have been transforming the industry around tequilas and mezcals in recent decades.
The result of the authors’ fieldwork and on-the-ground interviews with mezcaleros in eight Mexican states, Agave Spirits shows how traditional methods of mezcal production are inspiring a new generation of individuals, including women, both in and beyond the industry. And as they reach back into a rich, centuries-long history, Nabhan and Suro Piñera make clear that understanding the story behind a bottle of mezcal, more than any other drink, will not only reveal what lies ahead for the tradition—including its ability to adapt in the face of the climate crisis—but will also enrich the drinking experience for readers.
Essential reading for mezcal connoisseurs and amateurs interested in unlocking the past of a delightful distillate, Agave Spirits tells the tale of the most flavorful and memorable spirits humankind has ever sipped and savored.
Featuring twelve illustrations by René Alejandro Hernández Tapia and indices that list common and scientific names for agave species, as well as the names of plants, animals, and domesticated agaves used in the production of distillates.
317 pages, Kindle Edition
Published May 16, 2023
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Displaying 1 - 18 of 18 reviews
January 18, 2023
I received an ARC of “Agave Spirits: The Past, Present, and Future of Mezcals,” from NetGalley and W. W. Norton & Company in exchange for an honest review.
Written by by Gary Nabhan and David Suro Piñera, this ARC was an advance uncorrected proof. After having read and thoroughly reviewed this book, I could only see one problem: the lack of citations—either in-text or as endnotes. The authors did, however, include a bibliography. Even though the book lacks citations, I was unable to give this book anything less than five (5) stars. This does not mean that the citations shouldn’t be there. Rather, the writing, history, and research was **so good** that, if GoodReads enables a partial rating system, I would have given these authors 4.5 stars without the citations, and a full 5 stars with them.
I love tequila, hands down. In fact, the only thing that I love more than a margarita (and its fruity cousin Tequila Rose) is the ability to read a remarkably well researched book. The authors did such a good job that I am confident that, if given the chance to actually add in citations, they could do it easily; they are that knowledgeable.
Despite my love of tequila, I knew little to nothing about agave other than knowing that the plant was grown during the pre-Colombian era by indigenous people of modern-day Mexico. This book completely changed my ignorance on the subject.
I’m going to be completely honest with you: Reading this book takes commitment to read. It is long, and it is detailed. But to truly understand every facet of the agave and how it was and is used, this detailed and sometimes laborious reading is required.
The book is arranged in 2 parts. Part I: Mezcal’s Historic Legacy and Part II: The Future of the Agave-Human Symbiosis. The authors included 5 appendixes, that include but are not limited to the Mezcal Manifesto, a list of wild agaves and cultivated landraces distilled into agave spirits (along with state and local folk names and scientific names that includes sources), a list of agave species used in distillates around the world and names and a folk vocabulary.
Known as agave, mezcal, century plant, maguey, and La Maguey, agaves are succulent perennials that derived from asparagus-like Lillie’s. These plants were used historically, and still are in Mexico today, to make pulque. The most commonly known of these is the blue agave that is famous for the making of tequila. One thing that I wasn’t aware of is that all tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcals are tequila. The reasons for this are strictly political because Mexico’s DO (Denomination of Origins) laws require that only tequila can be made from the blue agave in a specific region in Mexico; never mind that there are approximately 42 other species of agave that are used to make mezcal, all of which imparts different flavors and characteristics to the liquor. Traditional mezcal makers usually only utilize the natural agave sugars. Industrial tequila manufacturers, aka the Tequila Cartel, on the other hand, are given the green light by the Mexican government to add up to 49% of non-agave sugars like corn syrup and sugarcane to the distillates.
The authors take great pains to point out that Indigenous wisdom, food ways, ancient culture, and plant diversity is being lost, forced to make way for profits due to the monoculture of tequila. They provide detailed information on the various varieties of agave found throughout Mexico, and in the first section o f the book, they even discuss the history of the various stills, including both the Arabic (now steel alambiques) and pre-Colombian designs which are still used (ollo de barro stills).
What I really love about this book is that the authors made the readers knowledgeable about the Slow Food Movement, including slow agriculture. Small-batch mezcal makers generally allow their agave plants to flower, thereby helping to support the bats that pollinate the agaves. The large industrial farmers, however, usually cut the agave before they even have a chance to pollinate. My favorite part of the book is when the authors clearly brought up problems that the mezcal farmers are facing and provided their own solutions for them. This was really important because the over-harvesting of agaves and the monoculture of blue agaves could ruin the mezcal industry. Like drugs, the American consumption of tequila and other mezcals is rabid. It is therefore not surprising that the authors’ goal is,
“…not to see that big companies are brought to their knees, just that they be held accountable. To that end, we can leverage shifting purchasing trends, powered by people who care and communicate, so they realize that a socially and ecologically unsustainable path forward will be equally unsustainable for their near-term bottom line. Then, and only then, can we hope for change….” (Pg. 198-199).
Both authors clearly revealed why local, small-batch mezcal is more flavorsome as compared to tequila and why small farmers are having so many problems with the Mexican authorities in getting their brews recognized. But what the authors did not discuss are the American health laws that prevent a lot of food and drinks from entering the US. For example, some mezcal producers add worms and other bugs to their liquor. Importing many of these would require an innumerable amount of red tape and inspections, something that small producers would be unable to bypass without great cost. Another issue that the authors didn’t discuss was other health standards, such as on-site inspections.
The authors showed us how the desire for money compelled many to rape natural resources like the wild agaves, but if all of these mezcals were given the green light for export into the United States, some people might be tempted to sell as much as possible, regardless of how these might (or might not) affect customers. For example, moonshine is generally outlawed in the USA because people can go blind.
This books included some really excellent chapters, like the chapters on women involved in mezcal production, the bartenders who serve it, and also the workers who labor in the fields. The authors bring up painful, but important reminders, pointing out that the field laborers are underpaid, often undernourished, and vulnerable to a host of accidents. In our rush for tequila, we, and especially Americans, are complicit in the suffering of those laborers, as are the large producers. In our greed for cheap and overfilling tequila, we are willing to reduce other human beings to perpetual poverty. But the authors don’t just try to shame us. Instead, they show us how people are making a difference to the lives of plantation workers. But we need to do more. We need fair trade.
This book also delved into how agaves—which can be used not just for alcohol but also for food, clothing, ropes, and even animal feed—can and are being used to combat climate change, especially since many areas are now experiencing dramatic droughts.
I found this book absolutely fascinating. There is so much that I could comment on. It is well researched and solidly written. This book will be a must-read for every bartender, scientist, and anyone who is an aficionado of anything and everything dealing with mezcal.
Written by by Gary Nabhan and David Suro Piñera, this ARC was an advance uncorrected proof. After having read and thoroughly reviewed this book, I could only see one problem: the lack of citations—either in-text or as endnotes. The authors did, however, include a bibliography. Even though the book lacks citations, I was unable to give this book anything less than five (5) stars. This does not mean that the citations shouldn’t be there. Rather, the writing, history, and research was **so good** that, if GoodReads enables a partial rating system, I would have given these authors 4.5 stars without the citations, and a full 5 stars with them.
I love tequila, hands down. In fact, the only thing that I love more than a margarita (and its fruity cousin Tequila Rose) is the ability to read a remarkably well researched book. The authors did such a good job that I am confident that, if given the chance to actually add in citations, they could do it easily; they are that knowledgeable.
Despite my love of tequila, I knew little to nothing about agave other than knowing that the plant was grown during the pre-Colombian era by indigenous people of modern-day Mexico. This book completely changed my ignorance on the subject.
I’m going to be completely honest with you: Reading this book takes commitment to read. It is long, and it is detailed. But to truly understand every facet of the agave and how it was and is used, this detailed and sometimes laborious reading is required.
The book is arranged in 2 parts. Part I: Mezcal’s Historic Legacy and Part II: The Future of the Agave-Human Symbiosis. The authors included 5 appendixes, that include but are not limited to the Mezcal Manifesto, a list of wild agaves and cultivated landraces distilled into agave spirits (along with state and local folk names and scientific names that includes sources), a list of agave species used in distillates around the world and names and a folk vocabulary.
Known as agave, mezcal, century plant, maguey, and La Maguey, agaves are succulent perennials that derived from asparagus-like Lillie’s. These plants were used historically, and still are in Mexico today, to make pulque. The most commonly known of these is the blue agave that is famous for the making of tequila. One thing that I wasn’t aware of is that all tequila is mezcal, but not all mezcals are tequila. The reasons for this are strictly political because Mexico’s DO (Denomination of Origins) laws require that only tequila can be made from the blue agave in a specific region in Mexico; never mind that there are approximately 42 other species of agave that are used to make mezcal, all of which imparts different flavors and characteristics to the liquor. Traditional mezcal makers usually only utilize the natural agave sugars. Industrial tequila manufacturers, aka the Tequila Cartel, on the other hand, are given the green light by the Mexican government to add up to 49% of non-agave sugars like corn syrup and sugarcane to the distillates.
The authors take great pains to point out that Indigenous wisdom, food ways, ancient culture, and plant diversity is being lost, forced to make way for profits due to the monoculture of tequila. They provide detailed information on the various varieties of agave found throughout Mexico, and in the first section o f the book, they even discuss the history of the various stills, including both the Arabic (now steel alambiques) and pre-Colombian designs which are still used (ollo de barro stills).
What I really love about this book is that the authors made the readers knowledgeable about the Slow Food Movement, including slow agriculture. Small-batch mezcal makers generally allow their agave plants to flower, thereby helping to support the bats that pollinate the agaves. The large industrial farmers, however, usually cut the agave before they even have a chance to pollinate. My favorite part of the book is when the authors clearly brought up problems that the mezcal farmers are facing and provided their own solutions for them. This was really important because the over-harvesting of agaves and the monoculture of blue agaves could ruin the mezcal industry. Like drugs, the American consumption of tequila and other mezcals is rabid. It is therefore not surprising that the authors’ goal is,
“…not to see that big companies are brought to their knees, just that they be held accountable. To that end, we can leverage shifting purchasing trends, powered by people who care and communicate, so they realize that a socially and ecologically unsustainable path forward will be equally unsustainable for their near-term bottom line. Then, and only then, can we hope for change….” (Pg. 198-199).
Both authors clearly revealed why local, small-batch mezcal is more flavorsome as compared to tequila and why small farmers are having so many problems with the Mexican authorities in getting their brews recognized. But what the authors did not discuss are the American health laws that prevent a lot of food and drinks from entering the US. For example, some mezcal producers add worms and other bugs to their liquor. Importing many of these would require an innumerable amount of red tape and inspections, something that small producers would be unable to bypass without great cost. Another issue that the authors didn’t discuss was other health standards, such as on-site inspections.
The authors showed us how the desire for money compelled many to rape natural resources like the wild agaves, but if all of these mezcals were given the green light for export into the United States, some people might be tempted to sell as much as possible, regardless of how these might (or might not) affect customers. For example, moonshine is generally outlawed in the USA because people can go blind.
This books included some really excellent chapters, like the chapters on women involved in mezcal production, the bartenders who serve it, and also the workers who labor in the fields. The authors bring up painful, but important reminders, pointing out that the field laborers are underpaid, often undernourished, and vulnerable to a host of accidents. In our rush for tequila, we, and especially Americans, are complicit in the suffering of those laborers, as are the large producers. In our greed for cheap and overfilling tequila, we are willing to reduce other human beings to perpetual poverty. But the authors don’t just try to shame us. Instead, they show us how people are making a difference to the lives of plantation workers. But we need to do more. We need fair trade.
This book also delved into how agaves—which can be used not just for alcohol but also for food, clothing, ropes, and even animal feed—can and are being used to combat climate change, especially since many areas are now experiencing dramatic droughts.
I found this book absolutely fascinating. There is so much that I could comment on. It is well researched and solidly written. This book will be a must-read for every bartender, scientist, and anyone who is an aficionado of anything and everything dealing with mezcal.
Read
October 10, 2023I'm abandoning "Agave Spirits" about a fifth of the way in. Not because it is bad in any way, it just isn't for me (at least not for the moment).
The book, as far as I got and can tell, attempts to both give a history of Agave growing and Mezcals and map out a sustainable route forward. It also serves up a pretty well-deserved left hook to the liver of Tequila.
I'm a fan of (some) tequilas and an even greater appreciator of mezcals and I had been looking forward to getting going on this book, so why didn't it resonate with me? Well, I have read this book before but about other products/foods. Some artisan product from a beneficial practice/plant hits it big, volume takes over and degrades both the product and its environment with unsustainable practices, pushing the little guy and his love-grown product to the side, and now we need to revert back to more environmentally friendly practices or lose both the product and the planet. We can't have nice things.
It's a very important story every time, and it needs to be told every time, but it just wasn't what I wanted to read right now... and I don't feel like I can give the book a fair rating because of it.
The book, as far as I got and can tell, attempts to both give a history of Agave growing and Mezcals and map out a sustainable route forward. It also serves up a pretty well-deserved left hook to the liver of Tequila.
I'm a fan of (some) tequilas and an even greater appreciator of mezcals and I had been looking forward to getting going on this book, so why didn't it resonate with me? Well, I have read this book before but about other products/foods. Some artisan product from a beneficial practice/plant hits it big, volume takes over and degrades both the product and its environment with unsustainable practices, pushing the little guy and his love-grown product to the side, and now we need to revert back to more environmentally friendly practices or lose both the product and the planet. We can't have nice things.
It's a very important story every time, and it needs to be told every time, but it just wasn't what I wanted to read right now... and I don't feel like I can give the book a fair rating because of it.
November 12, 2024
“Necessity is the angry mother of invention”. A beautiful and informative read on the complex human/agave relationship and all the associated regulatory nuances impacting its wild essence. Coming out of this read inspired by the resiliency and innate wild nature of the agave. Also really enjoyed learning more about Mayahuel—the nurturing goddess of agave, agave/pollinator (bats) relationships, inequities of the jima/harvesting practices, and the influential women who’ve also impacted the mezcal world.
January 15, 2024
An amazing book.
I have not ever been a fan of tequila, but mostly because I never had any GOOD tequila, just the industrialized crap with the fancy colorful label.
A good friend of mine commented on my love of whiskey, and especially bourbon, and made the assertion that tequila can be and is every bit as nuanced and enjoyable and delicate as my bourbons.
I figured he was blowing smoke, but nevertheless, he was as much a tequila aficionado as I was kind of a bourbon one, so I trusted his judgment. I am glad I did.
I picked up this book at a tequila tasting hosted by David Suro-Pinera, one of the co-authors of the book. I was so impressed with all of the tequilas but, having only one in my budget, snagged the mid-range priced tequila with the intention of eventually getting the rest.
The book itself is a testament to the biodiversity of the agaves that give us refreshment and nourishment, as well as a cultural-societal-religious-history of mezcals (something I did not know: all tequilas are mezcals, but not all mezcals are tequila).
It is as much an informational narrative as much as it is a love song to this beverage.
I cannot wait to try more mezcals now!
I have not ever been a fan of tequila, but mostly because I never had any GOOD tequila, just the industrialized crap with the fancy colorful label.
A good friend of mine commented on my love of whiskey, and especially bourbon, and made the assertion that tequila can be and is every bit as nuanced and enjoyable and delicate as my bourbons.
I figured he was blowing smoke, but nevertheless, he was as much a tequila aficionado as I was kind of a bourbon one, so I trusted his judgment. I am glad I did.
I picked up this book at a tequila tasting hosted by David Suro-Pinera, one of the co-authors of the book. I was so impressed with all of the tequilas but, having only one in my budget, snagged the mid-range priced tequila with the intention of eventually getting the rest.
The book itself is a testament to the biodiversity of the agaves that give us refreshment and nourishment, as well as a cultural-societal-religious-history of mezcals (something I did not know: all tequilas are mezcals, but not all mezcals are tequila).
It is as much an informational narrative as much as it is a love song to this beverage.
I cannot wait to try more mezcals now!
July 20, 2024
I felt the book was trying to cover too many bases and could’ve used an efficient editor. It was full of Spanish language and scientific terminology I doubt that anyone retained or could use. You could tell the author had his heart in the right place, emphasizing the importance of biodiversity and the actual farmers of agave with the passed on knowledge from generations past. Having spent two weeks in Oaxaca, researching mezcals, agaves and visiting paleques, talking to the farmers and bartenders alike one quickly realizes that much of the production is just unsustainable. I don’t feel that the book made that point clear either.
It was satisfying to see the reverence that the author has for the plant , the drink, and its place within Mexican culture. He does layout some sort of plan for a sustainable production and it’s hard to know if something like that is even realistic. I believe that the way to approach mezcal is the way the Mexicans themselves do it. They savor that rare brew for very special occasions and don’t drink it as an every day spirit. There is too much of a gold rush, mentality going on now for that to be realistic..
It was satisfying to see the reverence that the author has for the plant , the drink, and its place within Mexican culture. He does layout some sort of plan for a sustainable production and it’s hard to know if something like that is even realistic. I believe that the way to approach mezcal is the way the Mexicans themselves do it. They savor that rare brew for very special occasions and don’t drink it as an every day spirit. There is too much of a gold rush, mentality going on now for that to be realistic..
May 11, 2023
Thank you to NetGalley and W. W. Norton & Company for an ARC in exchange for an honest review.
Gary Nabhan and David Suro Piñera have written a comprehensive and fascinating book about the beloved agave Mezcal spirit with a deep past that has quickly become a fan favorite for enthusiasts worldwide. They provide a rich history dating back to the original indigenous people who cultivated the drink through its modern day struggles with supply chain demands. They show the craft and beauty that goes into growing the plants and harvesting them at just the right time for both the spirit and the environment it thrives in. I am from Arizona and very familiar with the smoky cousin to the favorite tequila but this book is so rich in detail and history that I learned a lot. I recommend grabbing a glass of the beautiful liquid and dive into the world of the mezcaleros.
Gary Nabhan and David Suro Piñera have written a comprehensive and fascinating book about the beloved agave Mezcal spirit with a deep past that has quickly become a fan favorite for enthusiasts worldwide. They provide a rich history dating back to the original indigenous people who cultivated the drink through its modern day struggles with supply chain demands. They show the craft and beauty that goes into growing the plants and harvesting them at just the right time for both the spirit and the environment it thrives in. I am from Arizona and very familiar with the smoky cousin to the favorite tequila but this book is so rich in detail and history that I learned a lot. I recommend grabbing a glass of the beautiful liquid and dive into the world of the mezcaleros.
August 21, 2024
As a mezcal aficionado, I am always looking to expand my knowledge of the most sophisticated spirit on planet earth. This book truly is comprehensive, and whereas it doesn't dive into the specific flavor profiles of each individual agave (that's more of a subjective judgement best reserved for MezcalReviews or for long nights around a campfire), this IS a deep dive into the world of mezcal. It covers production, history, processes, and considers both the business and economic aspects as well as sustainability and environmental concerns. While it can get a bit technical and reference-like, there are still some great chapters that are both enlightening and entertaining. I enjoyed listening to it, and even if I didn't discover any new types of mezcal to try, I increased my appreciation for the world's best-tasting distilled beverage.
April 24, 2025
I wanted to like this book more than I did. It does offer some interesting history regarding the agave plant and its various spirits. And the book delivers some much-needed criticism of the tequila industry (which largely operates at the expense of broader mezcal production and tradition) as well as Mexico's governing bodies and the Denomination of Origin restrictions that actually hamstring many small mezcal producers. But...the book wanders a lot, and the writing is never particularly great. And while the authors speak passionately about mezcal and eagerly advocate for its producers, they often veer into a kind of worshipful, quasi-religious fawning over the spirit, which is kind of off-putting. In the end, the book is a mish-mash of history, science, and political criticism that doesn't really come together coherently.
May 30, 2023
As an avid tequila drinker and budding botanist, I picked up this book. I wanted something easily digestible and was a little worried about this book not fitting into that category. I was pleasantly surprised and found this book to be an easy read. I really enjoyed how the author looked at the whole picture of the issues surrounding the agave plant and did not focus on just one section. I have a new found love for the agave plant and tequila.
June 3, 2023
This is my fifth mezcal book for my own edification, each with a different emphasis point. Agave Spirits is the most “grass-roots, get to the basics, acknowledge the farmer of them all”. My highest praise to the author for his research and dealings with the farm to fork of mezcal. I desperately want to go to Oaxaca (and their neighbors) and visit wonderful people and ancestral makings of their heritage. I appreciate this book and hold it in high admiration.
May 6, 2023
An interesting look at the plant that has given millions of people a refreshing drink and cocktail for countless hours of pleasure and a way to forget the world for awhile.
There is a comprehensive index in the back along with a dictionary to describe the process and parts.
Thanks to WW Norton and Edelweiss for the early read.
There is a comprehensive index in the back along with a dictionary to describe the process and parts.
Thanks to WW Norton and Edelweiss for the early read.
December 31, 2025
I appreciate how the authors embrace the agave as an ancient and miraculous life force of indigenous culture. They are realistic about the assaults on its diversity, health, and role in traditional Mexican culture, yet are hopeful about the many efforts to save and preserve its place in the world.
Want to read
September 9, 2023As heard on The Splendid Table:
https://play.podtrac.com/APM-Splendid...
https://play.podtrac.com/APM-Splendid...
February 29, 2024
The book was very informational, but almost to a fault. Learned a lot about the history, production and laws surrounding the spirits. I also learned a bit more than I anticipated about the Agave plant.
February 19, 2025
Great insights on the process, sustainability and potential future of agave spirits! Definitely makes you appreciate the process of making these products a lot more. The writers have excellent knowledge.
September 14, 2024
Fascinating!
July 29, 2024
A wide ranging books that presents the historical, agricultural and cultural dimensions of the production of agave spirits in Mexico. The authors build a pressing case for the ecological and social fragility these indigenous spirits, even before explosion of their popularity outside of Mexico, then offer an equitable road map for their preservation. This book is a must read for anyone with even a passing appreciation of mezcal and tequila.
Displaying 1 - 18 of 18 reviews