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Milked: How an American Crisis Brought Together Midwestern Dairy Farmers and Mexican Workers
A compelling portrayal by the veteran journalist of the lives of farming communities on either side of the U.S.-Mexico border and the surprising connections between them
"Conniff brings her skills and insights to a particularly urgent project: moving beyond the polarizing politics of our current era, and taking a deeper look at how people who have been pitted against each other can forge bonds of understanding." --E.J. Dionne Jr., co-author of 100% Democracy
In the Midwest, Mexican workers have become critically important to the survival of rural areas and small towns--and to the individual farmers who rely on their work--with undocumented immigrants, mostly from Mexico, accounting for an estimated 80 percent of employees on the dairy farms of western Wisconsin.
In Milked, former editor-in-chief of The Progressive Ruth Conniff introduces us to the migrants who worked on these dairy farms, their employers, among them white voters who helped elect Donald Trump to office in 2016, and the surprising friendships that have formed between these two groups of people. These stories offer a rich and fascinating account of how two crises--the record-breaking rate of farm bankruptcies in the Upper Midwest, and the contentious politics around immigration--are changing the landscape of rural America.
A unique and fascinating exploration of rural farming communities, Milked sheds light on seismic shifts in policy on both sides of the border over recent decades, connecting issues of labor, immigration, race, food, economics, and U.S.-Mexico relations and revealing how two seemingly disparate groups of people have come to rely on each other, how they are subject to the same global economic forces, and how, ultimately, the bridges of understanding that they have built can lead us toward a more constructive politics and a better world.
"Conniff brings her skills and insights to a particularly urgent project: moving beyond the polarizing politics of our current era, and taking a deeper look at how people who have been pitted against each other can forge bonds of understanding." --E.J. Dionne Jr., co-author of 100% Democracy
In the Midwest, Mexican workers have become critically important to the survival of rural areas and small towns--and to the individual farmers who rely on their work--with undocumented immigrants, mostly from Mexico, accounting for an estimated 80 percent of employees on the dairy farms of western Wisconsin.
In Milked, former editor-in-chief of The Progressive Ruth Conniff introduces us to the migrants who worked on these dairy farms, their employers, among them white voters who helped elect Donald Trump to office in 2016, and the surprising friendships that have formed between these two groups of people. These stories offer a rich and fascinating account of how two crises--the record-breaking rate of farm bankruptcies in the Upper Midwest, and the contentious politics around immigration--are changing the landscape of rural America.
A unique and fascinating exploration of rural farming communities, Milked sheds light on seismic shifts in policy on both sides of the border over recent decades, connecting issues of labor, immigration, race, food, economics, and U.S.-Mexico relations and revealing how two seemingly disparate groups of people have come to rely on each other, how they are subject to the same global economic forces, and how, ultimately, the bridges of understanding that they have built can lead us toward a more constructive politics and a better world.
304 pages, Hardcover
Published July 12, 2022
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June 6, 2022
“The typical U.S. dairy cow never grazes in a field at all. Instead, she lives in a huge building with a concrete floor, where she munches on a carefully monitored diet of grain and supplements.”
One would think if they’d stopped reading at this point, that a dairy farmer in the USA has a fairly easy job. However, Conniff continues to explain that “dairy farmworkers labour around the clock, pushing groups of cows into the milking parlour in shifts that run continuously from morning to night” Now that readers get a sense of the labour-intensive work, the author seeks to inform us about the identity of these tireless and dedicated workers.
They’re NOT American.
Twenty years ago, the dairy farm owners in Wisconsin started hiring Mexican workers as the pressure to increase their operations to compete with giant dairy farms intensified. The feeding, herding cows to milk, keeping equipment in working order, shovelling manure and tending the animals is not only done 365 days a year, it’s also done by 80% Mexican labour. What the average person doesn’t realize is that because these workers aren’t seasonal workers, they can’t get a visa. This means that the people involved in producing America’s milk are illegal workers!
Conniff was curious about the relationship between the workers and farmers and was prompted to uncover the reason these workers came to Wisconsin and why they keep returning. What resulted was a fascinating examination into people on both sides of the border, who are continually pitted against each other, yet rely on resilience and determination to survive, and in some cases, thrive, in the direst of circumstances. Living in Mexico for a year gave the author perspective and allowed her to see the commonalities between both groups of people as well as the politics that separate them.
At times over my head, with regards to American politics, I was still very much absorbed in this book and appreciated the access to an early copy. Easy to understand and quick to read, this collection pulled at my heartstrings and reinforced the need for a greater cross-cultural understanding before progress can be measured. Interestingly enough, the families on both sides of the USA/Mexico border are no different - both are driven to succeed, regardless of sacrifice. The collection of stories about these hardworking people and their circumstances who are united by pressure and economic forces yet divided by politics is an informative and worthwhile read.
I was gifted this advance copy by Ruth Conniff, The New Press, and NetGalley and was under no obligation to provide a review.
One would think if they’d stopped reading at this point, that a dairy farmer in the USA has a fairly easy job. However, Conniff continues to explain that “dairy farmworkers labour around the clock, pushing groups of cows into the milking parlour in shifts that run continuously from morning to night” Now that readers get a sense of the labour-intensive work, the author seeks to inform us about the identity of these tireless and dedicated workers.
They’re NOT American.
Twenty years ago, the dairy farm owners in Wisconsin started hiring Mexican workers as the pressure to increase their operations to compete with giant dairy farms intensified. The feeding, herding cows to milk, keeping equipment in working order, shovelling manure and tending the animals is not only done 365 days a year, it’s also done by 80% Mexican labour. What the average person doesn’t realize is that because these workers aren’t seasonal workers, they can’t get a visa. This means that the people involved in producing America’s milk are illegal workers!
Conniff was curious about the relationship between the workers and farmers and was prompted to uncover the reason these workers came to Wisconsin and why they keep returning. What resulted was a fascinating examination into people on both sides of the border, who are continually pitted against each other, yet rely on resilience and determination to survive, and in some cases, thrive, in the direst of circumstances. Living in Mexico for a year gave the author perspective and allowed her to see the commonalities between both groups of people as well as the politics that separate them.
At times over my head, with regards to American politics, I was still very much absorbed in this book and appreciated the access to an early copy. Easy to understand and quick to read, this collection pulled at my heartstrings and reinforced the need for a greater cross-cultural understanding before progress can be measured. Interestingly enough, the families on both sides of the USA/Mexico border are no different - both are driven to succeed, regardless of sacrifice. The collection of stories about these hardworking people and their circumstances who are united by pressure and economic forces yet divided by politics is an informative and worthwhile read.
I was gifted this advance copy by Ruth Conniff, The New Press, and NetGalley and was under no obligation to provide a review.
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January 26, 2025Unfortunately this missed the mark.
I'm from southeastern Wisconsin. While I may not be from the dairy/farm part of the state where Milked takes place, I know the tensions this book seeks to examine quite well. Like many mid-sized midwestern towns, the place I grew up has seen a huge influx of hispanic immigrants, and heavily depends on their labor to keep the city's businesses afloat. Nonetheless, the county has voted for Trump in the last three elections. Therefore, I was very excited to see someone really closely examine these communities.
I don't think Conniff actually wanted to write a full book. This book read like an extended article on the Puentes/Bridges program, and completely failed to dive into the nuances and complexities of these communities and relationships. Furthermore, Conniff's writing is incredibly flat, and the first 150 pages of personal stories from the farmers/migrant workers were unbelievably dry and stagnant. Towards the end of the book, Conniff starts to look at bigger picture issues, but she repeatedly brings up and interesting topic and then fails to examine it any further or push the people she is interviewing. She also neglects to explain much of the history behind how the crisis was created in the name of keeping the book simple. The final few chapters start to get somewhere, but it is too little, too late.
I think Conniff wanted to write a book for people who are not from the midwest and think everyone who ever voted for Trump is a KKK member. She really does not deliver much beyond: "See! These Trump voters like their Mexican farmhands!", which was ultimately disappointing for me.
I'm from southeastern Wisconsin. While I may not be from the dairy/farm part of the state where Milked takes place, I know the tensions this book seeks to examine quite well. Like many mid-sized midwestern towns, the place I grew up has seen a huge influx of hispanic immigrants, and heavily depends on their labor to keep the city's businesses afloat. Nonetheless, the county has voted for Trump in the last three elections. Therefore, I was very excited to see someone really closely examine these communities.
I don't think Conniff actually wanted to write a full book. This book read like an extended article on the Puentes/Bridges program, and completely failed to dive into the nuances and complexities of these communities and relationships. Furthermore, Conniff's writing is incredibly flat, and the first 150 pages of personal stories from the farmers/migrant workers were unbelievably dry and stagnant. Towards the end of the book, Conniff starts to look at bigger picture issues, but she repeatedly brings up and interesting topic and then fails to examine it any further or push the people she is interviewing. She also neglects to explain much of the history behind how the crisis was created in the name of keeping the book simple. The final few chapters start to get somewhere, but it is too little, too late.
I think Conniff wanted to write a book for people who are not from the midwest and think everyone who ever voted for Trump is a KKK member. She really does not deliver much beyond: "See! These Trump voters like their Mexican farmhands!", which was ultimately disappointing for me.
August 29, 2022
The milk carton on my kitchen table was from an organic dairy cooperative based in LaCrosse, Wisconsin. Staring back at me was a cute white kid and a bucolic cow with a background of verdant green hills. I didn’t believe it. Well, maybe I believed the green hills because I’ve been to western Wisconsin. About the rest I was suspicious.
It was 2017 and Trump was initiating his reign of terror. The National Milk Producers Federation had earlier issued a report that losing immigrant workers on dairy farms would nearly double retail milk prices. I wrote the dairy coop and asked them about their position on migrant workers and more. Their response was kind but insufficient. After a few exchanges with their experienced public relations team, I dropped the issue although it festered in my mind. Holding this dairy coop's feet to the fire would achieve little.
Then I discovered Ruth Conniff's “Milked,” published in July 2022 and I cracked open (literally) my library’s virgin hard cover edition in August. Focused on the western Wisconsin region and told through the stories of both the undocumented migrant workers and the dairy farmers who have been all but cornered into employing them so that they might remain in business.
Chapters are revealed in biographical sketches of specific people, workers and farmers. This was the perfect way to tell the story of Mexicans who assume the substantial risk and cost of coming to the US where their labor is desperately needed although they cannot arrive or work legally. And then there is the irony of the Trump Republican farmers (not all) who employ the undocumented women and men because they have little choice. Eye opening.
On the one hand the personal interest stories of all parties is fascinating. I was embarrassed that this drama is playing out literally in my backyard and I had no clue. It is largely heartbreaking. Conniff does not beat the reader over the head with wonky policy issues. Rather the policy deficiencies are voiced by those who are involved.
US immigration policy is both a mess and highly politicized. Therefore, obvious solutions cannot be achieved. Why can’t migrant workers get permanent work visas to fill an employment gap? Just how stupid is that? And, while some Mexicans may want to move here most call Mexico (or other south American countries) home and would rather return there. Or so the author suggests through the stories presented.
And what of the future of dairy farming and agribusiness in general? After fairly even keel character portrayals, Conniff subtly pivots toward the conclusion of the book to challenges of Big Ag and some of the unseemly direction that it (and we) are going. It is not pretty, but it is very real.
In the end, this is one thought-provoking book that, through the microcosm of western Wisconsin dairy farming, shines a light and illuminates the dark shadows and misunderstood implications of today’s immigration policy and the future of agriculture.
It was 2017 and Trump was initiating his reign of terror. The National Milk Producers Federation had earlier issued a report that losing immigrant workers on dairy farms would nearly double retail milk prices. I wrote the dairy coop and asked them about their position on migrant workers and more. Their response was kind but insufficient. After a few exchanges with their experienced public relations team, I dropped the issue although it festered in my mind. Holding this dairy coop's feet to the fire would achieve little.
Then I discovered Ruth Conniff's “Milked,” published in July 2022 and I cracked open (literally) my library’s virgin hard cover edition in August. Focused on the western Wisconsin region and told through the stories of both the undocumented migrant workers and the dairy farmers who have been all but cornered into employing them so that they might remain in business.
Chapters are revealed in biographical sketches of specific people, workers and farmers. This was the perfect way to tell the story of Mexicans who assume the substantial risk and cost of coming to the US where their labor is desperately needed although they cannot arrive or work legally. And then there is the irony of the Trump Republican farmers (not all) who employ the undocumented women and men because they have little choice. Eye opening.
On the one hand the personal interest stories of all parties is fascinating. I was embarrassed that this drama is playing out literally in my backyard and I had no clue. It is largely heartbreaking. Conniff does not beat the reader over the head with wonky policy issues. Rather the policy deficiencies are voiced by those who are involved.
US immigration policy is both a mess and highly politicized. Therefore, obvious solutions cannot be achieved. Why can’t migrant workers get permanent work visas to fill an employment gap? Just how stupid is that? And, while some Mexicans may want to move here most call Mexico (or other south American countries) home and would rather return there. Or so the author suggests through the stories presented.
And what of the future of dairy farming and agribusiness in general? After fairly even keel character portrayals, Conniff subtly pivots toward the conclusion of the book to challenges of Big Ag and some of the unseemly direction that it (and we) are going. It is not pretty, but it is very real.
In the end, this is one thought-provoking book that, through the microcosm of western Wisconsin dairy farming, shines a light and illuminates the dark shadows and misunderstood implications of today’s immigration policy and the future of agriculture.
January 18, 2023
This was a fascinating lesson on how Wisconsin's economy benefits greatly from immigrants from Mexico coming north to work, and specifically Wisconsin's farming economy.
These are very personal interviews with farmers and workers and their families both here and in Mexico. Many farmers are conservative and vote that way but insist they cannot survive without their workers from Mexico
I have a much better understanding of what drives these people to risk everything to come north and be separated from their families and their homes.
These are very personal interviews with farmers and workers and their families both here and in Mexico. Many farmers are conservative and vote that way but insist they cannot survive without their workers from Mexico
I have a much better understanding of what drives these people to risk everything to come north and be separated from their families and their homes.
December 15, 2023
This was a great book. If you eat or care about humanity, I highly recommend.
December 31, 2022
Ruth Conniff’s Milked is an enlightening account of what it takes to make Wisconsin’s dairy industry function, exploring the relationship between the farmers and the undocumented workers on their farms. Most of the undocumented people featured in this book have no interest in staying in the US- they are working on dairy farms to send money back, to build houses, to actually make money to be able to retire. Unable to go back and forth easily, they spend years or decades working before they can go back to their country. The farmers are split between Biden and Trump voters, both equally convinced that each president would do what it takes to fix the immigration system for their workers.
One issue I have with this book is that the stories feel a little disjointed, and the book as a whole feels a bit repetitive because of it. I also think the book does not really consider the working conditions - the workers are making very little per hour and working very grueling hours.
Thanks to The New Press and NetGalley for the eARC in exchange for an honest review.
One issue I have with this book is that the stories feel a little disjointed, and the book as a whole feels a bit repetitive because of it. I also think the book does not really consider the working conditions - the workers are making very little per hour and working very grueling hours.
Thanks to The New Press and NetGalley for the eARC in exchange for an honest review.
November 6, 2022
This book was truly incredible. A moving history and picture of the relationship between labor, policy, farmers, and the food we eat. The book is written is biographical chapters sharing the stories of immigrant farm workers, primarily from Mexico, and their lives devoted to America’s food system. So much light was shed for me to learn about the true cost of the food we eat in America and the global impact it is having. Dairy in the US is produced and available at the huge scale it is today as a result of immigrant laborers. Americans don’t do the work. But these laborers are real people. With real families and they actually come from real vibrant communities. Communities at risk of collapsing.
I am leaving this book with a real inspiration to reflect and move on the way we build our economy, moving away from external reliance on multinational corporations and back to an internal economic system that relies on its neighbors.
I am leaving this book with a real inspiration to reflect and move on the way we build our economy, moving away from external reliance on multinational corporations and back to an internal economic system that relies on its neighbors.
July 27, 2023
This is a really good look at the dairy industry's dependence on foreign labor. We won't say immigrant labor because in most cases, the people who come are not given a path to stay in the U.S. Stories here focus on workers working 100+ hour weeks, living on the farms they work at because they may be afraid to even go into the closest town to shop because they don't have legal status and the state prevents them from getting a driver's license. What is it like to basically spend years working, sleeping, eating, then repeat endlessly?
Also interviewed are the farmers who employ them, social workers who try to bridge the gap between English speakers and Spanish speakers, and politicians who have tried to work towards a legal status and making the work situation more positive.
If the book has a flaw, it is that the author's entry into this world entered and then branched out from an exchange program where farmers were able to visit the Mexican families of their workers and learn a bit more about what drives the workers to come to the U.S. Filtered out for the most part are the farmers and agribusiness people who like the current situation just fine because it is very easy to take advantage of a workforce that is undocumented and has no recourse for complaints and no legal rights. Of course it would be very hard to report that side of the story because these people don't want publicity about how things work and have no interest in the system changing. Which makes the stories from the farmers working to advocate change that much more impressive. They speak out knowing that their business and workers may be harassed because of their advocacy for change.
Also interviewed are the farmers who employ them, social workers who try to bridge the gap between English speakers and Spanish speakers, and politicians who have tried to work towards a legal status and making the work situation more positive.
If the book has a flaw, it is that the author's entry into this world entered and then branched out from an exchange program where farmers were able to visit the Mexican families of their workers and learn a bit more about what drives the workers to come to the U.S. Filtered out for the most part are the farmers and agribusiness people who like the current situation just fine because it is very easy to take advantage of a workforce that is undocumented and has no recourse for complaints and no legal rights. Of course it would be very hard to report that side of the story because these people don't want publicity about how things work and have no interest in the system changing. Which makes the stories from the farmers working to advocate change that much more impressive. They speak out knowing that their business and workers may be harassed because of their advocacy for change.
July 15, 2023
collection of personal anecdotes from a collection of Wisconsin Dairy farm owners and some of their workers, mostly of Mexican descent and undocumented, and how they have more in common than not; except in my opinion that the workers here, how candid can they really be?
I appreciated hearing about the bridges program so dairy owners can visit their employees' homes in Mexico, and that most of the workers are working as hard as they can in grueling, unforgiving jobs that most Americans will not take, so they can better afford a life back home.
The true hardships of these workers to cross the border, safely, is hard to read about, and i found the otherwise rosy tone odd. of course the workers will speak kindly of their employers? Also, the stories began to feel repetitive and there's no true investigation into what it will take to change things, beyond personal opinions and attitudes.
that said, i think this would be a book you could hand to your up north fam and acquaintances that they might actually read, and learn something from.
I appreciated hearing about the bridges program so dairy owners can visit their employees' homes in Mexico, and that most of the workers are working as hard as they can in grueling, unforgiving jobs that most Americans will not take, so they can better afford a life back home.
The true hardships of these workers to cross the border, safely, is hard to read about, and i found the otherwise rosy tone odd. of course the workers will speak kindly of their employers? Also, the stories began to feel repetitive and there's no true investigation into what it will take to change things, beyond personal opinions and attitudes.
that said, i think this would be a book you could hand to your up north fam and acquaintances that they might actually read, and learn something from.
September 29, 2025
The author interviewed Wisconsin farmers and the undocumented Mexican workers to give the reader a firsthand look at the immigration issues. She also went along with the farmers on their annual trip to Mexico to visit their workers families and towns to gain a better understanding of the culture and motivations. They stood in for their workers who could not leave Wisconsin due to the fears of arrest and removal by ICE if they recrossed the border. A common thread in the farmers accounts was the fact that American workers would not take the farm jobs. The Mexicans worked hard and were more reliable. Many of the Latinos did not want permanent residency—they were working to save enough money to build a house and/or business in Mexico and planned to return when they achieved their goals. Many of the right wing talking points-undocumented people were receiving government benefits, were drug dealers and criminals and were taking jobs from Americans were debunked. I recommend this book if you want to understand the current state of farm economics and their workforce.
September 6, 2023
This is hands-down the most painful book I've ever muddled through. What a hot mess of over-descriptive "stories" that had no heart but were just a run-down of names, locations, etc. The first 250 pages are completely unrelated to any theme or plot where all of the characters all run together; then the very end is an interesting bit on current events/politics and actual people working towards change. It reads like a college textbook, but if you do pick this up, feel free to skip to the last couple chapters and you'll be glad you did :)
August 19, 2023
Really interesting topic, learned a good bit , and I appreciated the human connections. I wish everyone had the opportunity (or if I let my utilitarian flag fly, requirement) to spend a year or two working on a farm. I suspect knowing your food had more of an origin story than the refrigerated section of the grocery store might actually improve our political discussions around agricultural decisions.
September 15, 2023
I learned so much about what is going on so close to home. Each chapter focuses on either an American dairy farmer or a Mexican national working on a farm. The stories are of heartbreaking homesickness or economic pressures. Rural depopulation and changing agriculture policies and changing the US and Mexico. The author reveals how much the two groups of people have in common.
May 31, 2023
I enjoyed the biographical approach that the author used to tell the stories. Her approach helped me to better relate with the different people that she interviewed. This book gave me a greater insight on the immigration issues that we are going through in the United States.
January 1, 2024
So good! Amazing how Conniff brings so much humanity, life, and joy to such a serious and heartbreaking issue. Heartily enjoyed seeing the comraderie and solidarity between two groups who might seem to not have much in common.
January 31, 2025
For anyone who wants a factual account of the immigrant farm workers’ experience working on Wisconsin farms- this is a book for you.
The fact that Congress has failed to create a year round visa program for farm workers has created the problem of “illegal “ immigrants in our state.
The fact that Congress has failed to create a year round visa program for farm workers has created the problem of “illegal “ immigrants in our state.
January 4, 2024
This will change how you view immigration.
April 10, 2024
Read the ebook. No illustrations. Why not?
May 28, 2024
Outrage
Since when is hard work the enemy, I'm so disapponted in Wisconsin farmers. I don't know any one who would work so hard for so little.
Since when is hard work the enemy, I'm so disapponted in Wisconsin farmers. I don't know any one who would work so hard for so little.
August 4, 2024
Important read for all Wisconsinites and others interested in global economics and immigration.
February 3, 2025
This is inspiring and reminds us to look for unexpected allies. We are all human and we are all connected. How we choose to honor that depends on each one of us.
December 12, 2025
An excellent telling of modern mainstream agriculture.
Displaying 1 - 22 of 22 reviews