Its Not What You Think: An American Woman in Saudi Arabia is indeed not what you might think a book written by a visiting American about life in Saudi Arabia would be about.
This book, by American Muslim author Sabeeha Rehman is neither a simplistic paint by numbers indictment of Saudi society as authoritarian and misogynist; nor conversely, a glorification thereof. Rather Sabeeha Rehman’s fascinating account of the six years she and her husband Khalid spent from 2001-2007 living in the Saudi capital of Riyadh as expats and working at the nation’s premiere hospital—Khalid as an oncologist and herself as a high-level hospital executive—is a nuanced, highly informative look into Saudi society through the insights of an American Muslim woman who takes the reader with her on a fascinating voyage of discovery.
It’s Not What You Think, the third book by Rehman, author of Threading My Prayer Rug: One Woman’s Journey from Pakistani Muslim to Muslim American and We Refuse to Be Enemies: How Muslims and Jews Can Make Peace One Friendship at a Time co-written with the writer of this review (one with an Advanced Reading Copy), will be published on October 11. (I read an Advanced Reading Copy). The book Is based on a diary Rehman kept during her years in Saudi Arabia. As a veteran reporter, myself, mainly for American Jewish and Israeli publications, I stand in awe of Rehman’s reportorial acumen in Its Not What You Think as she meticulously documents her encounter with a society which as she notes is “grounded in a culture that is tribal, patriarchal, family oriented, hospitable, private, insular and nationalistic; a culture that dates to the pre-Islamic era…”
If that assessment sounds forbidding—and Rehman acknowledges at the beginning of the book that she had serious doubts about moving there-- consider that although she and Khalid arrived in Riyadh with the intention of staying for two years, they happily extended their contract and ended up staying for six years. It turns out there was plenty for an emancipated American Muslim woman to like about Saudi Arabia; including living in an expatriate bubble free from the dress and social constraints imposed on Saudis beyond the walls of the compound with excellent pay and benefits, working in hospital administration at a higher level than had been possible in New York. On the other hand, Rehman also relished the experience of putting on an abaya and hijab (prescribed Muslim dress for all women beyond the walls of the compound) when she would go shopping at the mall outside the compound, where even simply covering her hair but not her face like many Saudi women, she found herself assuming and even enjoying an anonymity that she never experienced living in the West.
Rehman makes clear in this determinedly non-judgmental, and often humorous book that she relished living in a majority Muslim society where even malls have mosques; the lure of visiting Bedouin tribes in the surrounding desert and finding out that their women often had far more freedom than those in the capital, and most of all experiencing, together with her husband, the wonders of the hajj, the pilgrimage to Mecca and Medina that all Muslims are enjoined to make, and which she had Khalid experienced together with two million or more fellow pilgrims from virtually every country around the world. Rehman meticulously reports on the entire hajj experience including the intense heat and overwhelming crowds at the Kaaba, spring of Zamzam and other locales pilgrims are enjoined to visit, with concerns about stampeding a constant concern. Yet for Rehman, making the pilgrimage together with Muslims of all colors and ethnicities, and therefore feeling at one with the larger Muslim ummah, the global Muslim community was central to what made the hajj experience so spiritually powerful and transcendental for her.
Ultimately, it seemed to this reader that Sabeeha Rehman felt at home in Saudi Arabia because for her it truly is home—the very heart of the Muslim world. For Rehman, experiencing that sense of electric connection outweighed the very real societal negatives that she readily acknowledges—the violation of Saudi women’s’ autonomy by compelling them to cover their faces, the absolute power of the monarchy and strict limitations on the freedom to openly criticize the monarch and royal family. Rehman points out that much has changed since she left the country in 2007—for example, women are now allowed to drive—and yet, as she writes, “laws may have changed (but) the tradition and culture that define the identity of that nation remain intact. Beliefs and traditional ways observed by families prevail.” Yet even with the impetuous Crown Prince Mohamed bin Salman now in control—with his urgent desire to modernize the country even as he deepens totalitarian rule—the basic rhythms of Saudi society go on pretty much as they did during Rehman’s time there, and, indeed, as they have for hundreds of years.
What Rehman achieves in Its Not What You Think is to humanize Saudi Arabia and render it recognizable and even appealing to the non-Muslim reader. This is an honest, illuminating book that enlightens us about a place many Westerners see as the dark side of the moon. But, as Rehman points out, it’s not quite what we think. Riyadh is full of McDonalds, Kentucky Fried Chicken, You Tube and Instagram, and a burgeoning upwardly mobile middle class. Saudi Arabia may be firmly grounded in religious and societal rhythms quite distant from our own, and yet in terms of day-to-day life, it may not be so different after all.