Shocking: The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli

by Marie-Sophie Carron de la Carrière, Olivier Gabet (Introduction), Valérie Belin (Photographer)

Published to accompany the major exhibition at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, this book on the work of the great twentieth-century designer Elsa Schiaparelli is destined to become a must-have reference for all fashion lovers. The couturiere Elsa Schiaparelli (1890–1973) was a key figure in Paris fashion between the two World Wars. Following in the footsteps of her mentor Paul Poiret, she designed her first knitwear collection in January 1927 announcing the arrival of a major new designer. Decorated with trompe-l’oeil motifs in black and white, her sweaters were an immediate success in both France and the US. In 1935, the Maison Schiaparelli opened on the Place Vendo^me in Paris, selling collections designed for sports, city, and evening wear. Like her arch-rival Gabrielle Chanel, Schiaparelli also worked closely with artists, including Man Ray, Jean Cocteau, and Salvador Dalí, with whom she created her now-iconic lobster dress. Taking a cue from Surrealism, her creations were hugely imaginative and made use of innovative new materials. The “Schiap” style continued to develop through the 1930s and her designs were renowned for their originality and creativity. Her most famous collections addressed themes including the circus (Summer 1938) and astrology (Fall/Winter 1938–39). In 1937, Schiaparelli launched the fragrance “Shocking,” named after shocking pink, which had become her signature color. Alongside vintage photographs, sketches, and contemporary features from Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue , this volume presents specially photographed masterpieces from the collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. Destined to be the definitive volume on the great designer, this lavishly produced and illustrated book brings to life the work of this influential figure in the history of fashion. 200 illustrations

Genres: Fashion, Art

288 pages, Hardcover

Published October 25, 2022

Reviews

[Edie Lee · Rating 5 out of 5]

“Shocking!: The Surreal World of Elsa Schiaparelli”. In their day, the collections certainly were and many of them still are. However, I would change the title to “Amazing!” This word capsulizes the ensembles, their designer and the book itself.

We see a great deal of Schiaparelli’s work in beautiful color (particularly shocking pink) photographs. This includes dresses, hats, jewelry, pages from high fashion magazines, and even original drawings.

The essays are interesting enough (though none of them really blow me away). There are some artsy photographic details I could do without (in their place, I’d prefer real detail), but aside from that I can’t complain.

Some of Schiaparelli Couture from today are also represented. They show a continuity in spirit.

[Céline · Rating 4 out of 5]

Un magnifique ouvrage suite à la magnifique exposition de Schiaparelli au musée des Arts Décoratifs de Paris.

[anna · Rating 2 out of 5]

An exhibition catalogue that spends far too much time focusing on the male surrealists working around, with, and from Elsa Schiaparelli rather than on her as a surrealist artist herself. A shame.