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In Search of Perfumes: A lifetime journey to the sources of nature's scents
In this intoxicating concoction of history, travelogue, and memoir, one of the perfume industry's leading scouts of natural ingredients tells the story of the precious ingredients needed to make our favorite fragrances.
Do you know how many flowers it takes to produce a kilo of rose oil? One million roses, each handpicked. When it comes to nature, Dominique Roques is a unique authority. He has spent the last thirty years working closely with local communities across the globe to establish a sustainable supply of natural ingredients crucial to perfume making.
From resin cultivated by traditional methods in El Salvador to rose oil distilleries in India as old as the Taj Mahal, his network reveals an elusive trade built on the fault lines of tradition and modernity. With In Search of Perfumes, Roques tells the story of seventeen of the industry's most precious ingredients-where they come from, their cultural and historic significance, and why we love them--from Indonesian patchouli to the "Damask rose," interweaving his own recollections and reflections on his life and work.
From Andalusia to Somaliland, Roques takes us on an exclusive tour of a vast but delicate ecosystem wholly sustained by the artisans who are its caretakers. Isolated and rural, the tropical jungles of northern Laos remain to this day the only source of benzoin that centuries earlier wafted through the air of Louis XIV's court. In Madagascar, where every transaction is made in cash, a caravan of porters carry pallets bearing $500,000 dollars to exchange for vanilla beans. The Venezuelan tonka bean, as fickle as the weather, may refuse to flower for years but is so esteemed by perfumers that patience becomes its truest virtue. Everywhere Roques takes us, his infectious curiosity and amiability illuminate an immersive world of the uncharted.
Entertaining and eye-opening, decorated with beautiful black-and-white illustrations, In Search of Perfumes is an irresistible exploration of the smells that fuel our nostalgia and suffuse our fantasies.
Translated from the French by Stephanie Smee
Do you know how many flowers it takes to produce a kilo of rose oil? One million roses, each handpicked. When it comes to nature, Dominique Roques is a unique authority. He has spent the last thirty years working closely with local communities across the globe to establish a sustainable supply of natural ingredients crucial to perfume making.
From resin cultivated by traditional methods in El Salvador to rose oil distilleries in India as old as the Taj Mahal, his network reveals an elusive trade built on the fault lines of tradition and modernity. With In Search of Perfumes, Roques tells the story of seventeen of the industry's most precious ingredients-where they come from, their cultural and historic significance, and why we love them--from Indonesian patchouli to the "Damask rose," interweaving his own recollections and reflections on his life and work.
From Andalusia to Somaliland, Roques takes us on an exclusive tour of a vast but delicate ecosystem wholly sustained by the artisans who are its caretakers. Isolated and rural, the tropical jungles of northern Laos remain to this day the only source of benzoin that centuries earlier wafted through the air of Louis XIV's court. In Madagascar, where every transaction is made in cash, a caravan of porters carry pallets bearing $500,000 dollars to exchange for vanilla beans. The Venezuelan tonka bean, as fickle as the weather, may refuse to flower for years but is so esteemed by perfumers that patience becomes its truest virtue. Everywhere Roques takes us, his infectious curiosity and amiability illuminate an immersive world of the uncharted.
Entertaining and eye-opening, decorated with beautiful black-and-white illustrations, In Search of Perfumes is an irresistible exploration of the smells that fuel our nostalgia and suffuse our fantasies.
Translated from the French by Stephanie Smee
272 pages, Kindle Edition
First published January 1, 2021
83 people are currently reading
1060 people want to read
About the author
Dominique Roques
54 books20 followersDominique Roques est née en 1948 à Casablanca. Quelques années plus tard, en Belgique, elle a deux fils qui partagent son goût pour la bande dessinée humoristique. L'aîné de ses fils, Alexis Dormal, dessine depuis toujours des personnages pleins de vie. Si pleins de vie qu'il est vite devenu insupportable à Dominique de les abandonner à peine nés. Elle décide donc de leur faire des "transfusions" d'histoires, trouvant les donneurs... en elle et tout autour d'elle.
Ainsi tchatchent, galopent et dévorent Pico, Ana Ana et les autres.
Dominique Roques was the head of sourcing at Firmenich, a Swiss company which provides the world's leading perfume brands with natural fragrances, essences, and extracts. Over the last thirty years he has worked with companies such as Bulgari, Thierry Mugler, Guerlain and Yves Saint Laurent.
Ainsi tchatchent, galopent et dévorent Pico, Ana Ana et les autres.
Dominique Roques was the head of sourcing at Firmenich, a Swiss company which provides the world's leading perfume brands with natural fragrances, essences, and extracts. Over the last thirty years he has worked with companies such as Bulgari, Thierry Mugler, Guerlain and Yves Saint Laurent.
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Displaying 1 - 30 of 82 reviews
March 2, 2023
What a great book! Yep, a book on perfume wrapped me in its charm and the tales of over 15 different flowers, plants, trees and grasses that are used to make some of the worlds finest perfumes. Learned so very much about the perfume industry, the workers that pick the flowers or tap the trees, as well as what the perfume industry does to promote education, welfare and provide infrastructure to the area the scents come from, most all of which are ignored by their countries. So many wonderful stories about Sandalwood (most all of which is now grown in Australia), the difference between Vanilla and Vanillin, Lavender and Lavenderin, as well as Bulgarian Roses. Great book that is easy to read and can be read at one chapter at a time and put down until you feel in the mood for more perfumes. Well done, to put it mildly!
September 19, 2025
Why I chose to read this book:
1. I was fascinated by GR friend, Blaine's review (https://www.goodreads.com/review/show... and,
2. September 2025 is my "Q and R Authors" Month!
Praises:
1. author and sourcing agent Dominique Roques writes a captivating memoir about his travels around the world to meet with suppliers involved in the fragrance industry, all the while getting a first-hand glimpse into the natural flora themselves and how the farmers and/or collectors process these raw materials, be they flowers, resins, bark, branches, even roots!
2. some places Roques travels to include: India (jasmine); Madagascar (vanilla); Bulgaria (damask roses); Somaliland (frankincense); Haiti (vetiver); Sri Lanka (cinnamon); Indonesia (patchouli); and many more;
3. The dust jacket displays some of the featured plants in full color while the end pages show these same plants as black & white labeled illustrations. Other black & white illustrations, maps, and photos are interspersed throughout the book;
4. I liked how Roques gives a brief but informative history of each region as it pertains to these plants. I also appreciated that the 4 major players in the perfume industry - farmers/collectors, distillers, creators, and brands - realize that some of these raw materials, especially aromatic trees, must be protected from extinction through sustainable development. Secrecy must be replaced with transparency and ethical responsibility; and,
5. Roques is very adept at using particularly descriptive vocabulary to describe various scents!
Tiny Niggle:
Although a 2-part glossary (Words of the Trade) is included - Materials and Techniques - I was disappointed that the words are not in alphabetical order.
Overall Thoughts:
I felt warmth, sadness, even fear, as I read this excellent resource featuring the raw materials used in fragrances and extracts, and the frontline workers employed to grow and collect them. I was pleased to read about the great need for respect towards these hardworking people and their communities.
An informative, yet entertaining read!
1. I was fascinated by GR friend, Blaine's review (https://www.goodreads.com/review/show... and,
2. September 2025 is my "Q and R Authors" Month!
Praises:
1. author and sourcing agent Dominique Roques writes a captivating memoir about his travels around the world to meet with suppliers involved in the fragrance industry, all the while getting a first-hand glimpse into the natural flora themselves and how the farmers and/or collectors process these raw materials, be they flowers, resins, bark, branches, even roots!
2. some places Roques travels to include: India (jasmine); Madagascar (vanilla); Bulgaria (damask roses); Somaliland (frankincense); Haiti (vetiver); Sri Lanka (cinnamon); Indonesia (patchouli); and many more;
3. The dust jacket displays some of the featured plants in full color while the end pages show these same plants as black & white labeled illustrations. Other black & white illustrations, maps, and photos are interspersed throughout the book;
4. I liked how Roques gives a brief but informative history of each region as it pertains to these plants. I also appreciated that the 4 major players in the perfume industry - farmers/collectors, distillers, creators, and brands - realize that some of these raw materials, especially aromatic trees, must be protected from extinction through sustainable development. Secrecy must be replaced with transparency and ethical responsibility; and,
5. Roques is very adept at using particularly descriptive vocabulary to describe various scents!
Tiny Niggle:
Although a 2-part glossary (Words of the Trade) is included - Materials and Techniques - I was disappointed that the words are not in alphabetical order.
Overall Thoughts:
I felt warmth, sadness, even fear, as I read this excellent resource featuring the raw materials used in fragrances and extracts, and the frontline workers employed to grow and collect them. I was pleased to read about the great need for respect towards these hardworking people and their communities.
An informative, yet entertaining read!
2023
October 16, 2025Non-fiction November TBR
📱 Thank you to NetGalley and HarperVia
📱 Thank you to NetGalley and HarperVia
October 6, 2024
Un libro muy curioso y bonito. Dominique Roques es un francés dedicado a la provisión de esencias naturales para la industria de la perfumería, y a lo largo de las páginas intenta transmitir su amor por el oficio, lo natural, la esencia del negocio y de lo sensorial de los perfumes.
Cada capítulo recoge una breve historia sobre el origen o la actualidad de una esencia (patchulí, sándalo, incienso, vainilla...) y la de los trabajadores que lo cultivan, gracias a los cuales ha conocido los secretos de estas plantas y las artes de su cultivo. Tiene una estructura muy repetitiva en ese sentido, que da poco lugar a sorpresas. Sí, en cambio, tiene un apreciable valor histórico, empresarial y casi científico. Además, el libro se lee bastante rápido.
Por todo ello, 4 estrellas.
Cada capítulo recoge una breve historia sobre el origen o la actualidad de una esencia (patchulí, sándalo, incienso, vainilla...) y la de los trabajadores que lo cultivan, gracias a los cuales ha conocido los secretos de estas plantas y las artes de su cultivo. Tiene una estructura muy repetitiva en ese sentido, que da poco lugar a sorpresas. Sí, en cambio, tiene un apreciable valor histórico, empresarial y casi científico. Además, el libro se lee bastante rápido.
Por todo ello, 4 estrellas.
March 21, 2023
As an Aromatherapist I can’t tell you how thrilled I was to stumble upon this book. And then to start reading it, I was instantly transported to the hills, the fields, the forests where these majestic plants flourish. Intimately familiar with the aromas discussed, I was fascinated by the stories of the families, landowners and harvesters. Fortunately my cabinet is filled with exquisite oils so I was able to enjoy the aroma right along with the readings and that was entirely next level. Brimming with historical information, it’s a beautifully written, highly enjoyable tribute to a life’s work in the world of scent.
February 22, 2023
Dominique Roque, a sourcing agent working in the perfume industry, recounts his travels and travails in pursuit of natural ingredients used in perfumes and dives into the storied history and often precarious methods of the producers of those raw materials.
Perfume is a ubiquitous thing, to the point that you don’t really even register it. I have several bottles sitting on my dresser right now. But I’d never really thought about where the components of which they are composed of, which was why I found In Search of Perfumes so fascinating.
Roques has been a sourcing agent for thirty years, and his work has taken him all over the world to some very remote and beautiful places in that time. The best part of this book is how vividly he was able to recreate these places, painting lush scenes and of course evoking the scents that one might encounter here. Equally enjoyable is the true appreciation that Roques has for the industry and the far-flung people he has met over the course of his work. His care and curiosity shines through.
However, while I always enjoyed the reading about the production of the various ingredients, I did feel that the chapters began running into each other by the end, especially as we end on a trio of trees which whose stories have many parallels. I wouldn’t say that content should be cut – for every chapter is really very interesting and well-written – but this is definitely a book that cannot be binged.
Disclaimer: I received an ARC of this book from NetGalley. This is my honest and voluntary review.
Perfume is a ubiquitous thing, to the point that you don’t really even register it. I have several bottles sitting on my dresser right now. But I’d never really thought about where the components of which they are composed of, which was why I found In Search of Perfumes so fascinating.
Roques has been a sourcing agent for thirty years, and his work has taken him all over the world to some very remote and beautiful places in that time. The best part of this book is how vividly he was able to recreate these places, painting lush scenes and of course evoking the scents that one might encounter here. Equally enjoyable is the true appreciation that Roques has for the industry and the far-flung people he has met over the course of his work. His care and curiosity shines through.
However, while I always enjoyed the reading about the production of the various ingredients, I did feel that the chapters began running into each other by the end, especially as we end on a trio of trees which whose stories have many parallels. I wouldn’t say that content should be cut – for every chapter is really very interesting and well-written – but this is definitely a book that cannot be binged.
Disclaimer: I received an ARC of this book from NetGalley. This is my honest and voluntary review.
October 14, 2022
Although I rarely read non-fiction, nor do I often wear perfume, I loved this book.
In this memoir Dominique Roques travels all over the world sourcing ingredients for the manufacture of perfume. While each chapter involves descriptions of plants, how they are farmed, and how they are subsequently processed, I found the fascinating stories of the people Roques encountered made the book special.
Roques describes heartbreaking social and economic landscapes where historical events such as wars, earthquakes and political upheavals have impacted the peoples of the countries he visits.
One part I did find particularly poignant was the dilemma of those entrenched in traditional farming versus the more efficient and cheaper modern alternatives. It was equal parts depressing and uplifting that without Roques’ business partnership, some areas could be without any viable future. And that’s before you focus on the ever-present threat of climate change hanging over their heads.
I admit I’ve never really thought about why perfume is so expensive, however, reading In Search of Perfumes has made me appreciate the costs and resources involved in producing even the smallest drop of scent.
Highly recommend this informative and sometimes intimate read - 5 stars
*Thanks to Good Reading Magazine for my copy
In this memoir Dominique Roques travels all over the world sourcing ingredients for the manufacture of perfume. While each chapter involves descriptions of plants, how they are farmed, and how they are subsequently processed, I found the fascinating stories of the people Roques encountered made the book special.
Roques describes heartbreaking social and economic landscapes where historical events such as wars, earthquakes and political upheavals have impacted the peoples of the countries he visits.
One part I did find particularly poignant was the dilemma of those entrenched in traditional farming versus the more efficient and cheaper modern alternatives. It was equal parts depressing and uplifting that without Roques’ business partnership, some areas could be without any viable future. And that’s before you focus on the ever-present threat of climate change hanging over their heads.
I admit I’ve never really thought about why perfume is so expensive, however, reading In Search of Perfumes has made me appreciate the costs and resources involved in producing even the smallest drop of scent.
Highly recommend this informative and sometimes intimate read - 5 stars
*Thanks to Good Reading Magazine for my copy
September 15, 2023
Roques’s job was (is?) sourcing natural fragrance materials for high end perfume houses. He does this not just by sitting at a desk, but by going to the sites where the materials are gathered- to Provence for the very best lavender, Italy for bergamot, Andalusia for cistus tears, etc. Each chapter chronicles his visits to the producers- sometimes farmers of their own land, sometimes migrant workers, sometimes gatherers in the forests and jungles and deserts- one fragrant material per chapter. Most of the time, he writes not just about one trip, but several trips through the years, to see where the material comes from and how it’s harvested, to find out what the producers and gatherers need to survive and have good lives, because he doesn’t want to take advantage of the people, some of whom have lives that we’d consider very primitive. He doesn’t just make money for his clients and himself, but makes deals so the workers can have medical care and schools.
While the book wasn’t what I thought it would be- I thought it would be more about the fragrance materials- it was pretty interesting. I had never thought about how the people lived who gathered rose petals, or bergamot oranges, or the gums like cistus or frankincense. It’s good to know where the materials in those oh so expensive perfumes come from and what progress is doing to the areas they grow in!
While the book wasn’t what I thought it would be- I thought it would be more about the fragrance materials- it was pretty interesting. I had never thought about how the people lived who gathered rose petals, or bergamot oranges, or the gums like cistus or frankincense. It’s good to know where the materials in those oh so expensive perfumes come from and what progress is doing to the areas they grow in!
July 29, 2022
Lu dans le cadre du Prix des lecteurs Livre de poche 2022
Je garde un avis mitigé sur cette lecture, qui m'a quand même duré 3 semaines. Heureusement, les chapitres sont courts et traitent chacun d'une essence (fleur, arbre, résine...).
D'un côté, je suis une fan absolue du roman "Le parfum", et certains termes et ressentis m'ont rappelé des souvenirs. J'ai particulièrement aimé le chapitre sur la lavande, forcément, d'autant plus que j'étais en vacances dans les Alpes peu de temps après.
De l'autre, j'ai été gênée par certains aspects : difficile de ne pas voir que l'auteur, blanc et aisé, s'émerveille devant les paysans "du bout du monde" chez qui il se fournit en matières premières. On a littéralement des passages sur les enfants qui jouent avec un bâton et un bout de ficelle. Comment écrire des paragraphes entiers sur un merveilleux flacon de parfum (après recherche, il vaut 400 euros pièce), alors même que les artisans du début de chaîne vivent dans la misère ? Que les ressources s'amenuisent à force de piocher pour satisfaire la clientèle? Et que l'auteur prend l'avion un nombre incalculable de fois, parfois seulement pour visiter une exploitation ?
Pour moi, c'est un essai un peu "hors sol", plein de privilèges et qui ne m'a pas forcément touchée.
Je garde un avis mitigé sur cette lecture, qui m'a quand même duré 3 semaines. Heureusement, les chapitres sont courts et traitent chacun d'une essence (fleur, arbre, résine...).
D'un côté, je suis une fan absolue du roman "Le parfum", et certains termes et ressentis m'ont rappelé des souvenirs. J'ai particulièrement aimé le chapitre sur la lavande, forcément, d'autant plus que j'étais en vacances dans les Alpes peu de temps après.
De l'autre, j'ai été gênée par certains aspects : difficile de ne pas voir que l'auteur, blanc et aisé, s'émerveille devant les paysans "du bout du monde" chez qui il se fournit en matières premières. On a littéralement des passages sur les enfants qui jouent avec un bâton et un bout de ficelle. Comment écrire des paragraphes entiers sur un merveilleux flacon de parfum (après recherche, il vaut 400 euros pièce), alors même que les artisans du début de chaîne vivent dans la misère ? Que les ressources s'amenuisent à force de piocher pour satisfaire la clientèle? Et que l'auteur prend l'avion un nombre incalculable de fois, parfois seulement pour visiter une exploitation ?
Pour moi, c'est un essai un peu "hors sol", plein de privilèges et qui ne m'a pas forcément touchée.
June 2, 2023
Acompañamos al autor en un viaje que nos lleva desde los campos de lándano en Andalucía, los de lavanda en La Provenza o los de bergamota calabresa hasta las plantaciones de rosas en India, Irán o Turquía, a buscar palisandro en La Guayana, sándalo en la India, canela en Sri Lanka, benjuí en Laos, vainilla en Madagascar, pachuli en Indonesia, vetiver en Haití, oud en Bangladés e incienso en Somalilandia.
Me ha parecido un libro muy interesante… me ha gustado.
Me ha parecido un libro muy interesante… me ha gustado.
January 16, 2022
“Non dimenticarti di dire che tutte le foreste ricrescono, da sole o con un po’ d’aiuto, gli alberi non portano rancore, hanno solo molto più tempo di noi.”
May 22, 2024
Me sorprende que este libro tenga reseñas tan altas cuando es un intento descarado de lavar la imagen de la industria perfumera. Vamos, pura propaganda.
Solo tres explotaciones de materias primas descritas en este libro (el ládano en Huelva, la lavanda de un productor concreto de Grasse y la bergamota siciliana) no se encuentran en el Sur global. El resto: Sri Lanka, el Salvador, Laos, la India, Somalia, Egipto, Madagascar, Haití. Estos dos últimos en concreto son de los países más pobres del mundo. Lo que se describe en este libro es un puto expolio y aún así se vende como "qué bien, nuestra industria da de comer a mucha gente" sin hacer ningún tipo de crítica sobre cómo la industria afecta a la presencia de mafias, contrabandistas, inestabilidad económica, corrupción... El mismo hecho de que no existan opciones de desarrollo más allá del comercio con Europa no es algo de lo que Europa pueda estar orgullosa, más bien al contrario: es la ruina en la que Europa ha sumido al resto de países. Pero todo esto se muestra al lector con sintagmas vacíos, "mejores precios a los productores", "etiquetas bio" y "desarrollo sostenible", como si el sector estuviera mejorando o algo.
Durante un capítulo entero, el propio autor comenta los dilemas éticos que le suscitan viajar y negociar con regiones tan empobrecidas, lo consciente que le hace ser de su propio privilegio... Para luego concluir el capítulo con todas las ideas edulcoradas de más arriba. O encumbrando a señores y señoras franceses y suizos que cobran un dineral como "maestros perfumeros". O romantizando la pobreza en pos de "el momento de éxtasis que supone oler las materias primas en la naturaleza, en el tiempo y lugar de su recolección", a pesar de las duras condiciones que eso comporta para los que día a día desempeñan esa clase de trabajos.
Por muy buen escrito que esté, y a pesar de lo muy interesante que sea como ejercicio sensorial y descriptivo, un libro así no se merece más de una estrella.
Como me dijo Oliver: este es... El verdadero COLONIAlismo
Después de esto, voy a retomar el Quijote por la parte 2. Deseenme suerte!
Solo tres explotaciones de materias primas descritas en este libro (el ládano en Huelva, la lavanda de un productor concreto de Grasse y la bergamota siciliana) no se encuentran en el Sur global. El resto: Sri Lanka, el Salvador, Laos, la India, Somalia, Egipto, Madagascar, Haití. Estos dos últimos en concreto son de los países más pobres del mundo. Lo que se describe en este libro es un puto expolio y aún así se vende como "qué bien, nuestra industria da de comer a mucha gente" sin hacer ningún tipo de crítica sobre cómo la industria afecta a la presencia de mafias, contrabandistas, inestabilidad económica, corrupción... El mismo hecho de que no existan opciones de desarrollo más allá del comercio con Europa no es algo de lo que Europa pueda estar orgullosa, más bien al contrario: es la ruina en la que Europa ha sumido al resto de países. Pero todo esto se muestra al lector con sintagmas vacíos, "mejores precios a los productores", "etiquetas bio" y "desarrollo sostenible", como si el sector estuviera mejorando o algo.
Durante un capítulo entero, el propio autor comenta los dilemas éticos que le suscitan viajar y negociar con regiones tan empobrecidas, lo consciente que le hace ser de su propio privilegio... Para luego concluir el capítulo con todas las ideas edulcoradas de más arriba. O encumbrando a señores y señoras franceses y suizos que cobran un dineral como "maestros perfumeros". O romantizando la pobreza en pos de "el momento de éxtasis que supone oler las materias primas en la naturaleza, en el tiempo y lugar de su recolección", a pesar de las duras condiciones que eso comporta para los que día a día desempeñan esa clase de trabajos.
Por muy buen escrito que esté, y a pesar de lo muy interesante que sea como ejercicio sensorial y descriptivo, un libro así no se merece más de una estrella.
Como me dijo Oliver: este es... El verdadero COLONIAlismo
Después de esto, voy a retomar el Quijote por la parte 2. Deseenme suerte!
December 11, 2023
Je suis tombée sur ce livre en faisant des recherches sur l'industrie du parfum. Depuis environ un an, les parfums me passionnent en tant qu'objet d'art olfactif, oui, mais aussi grâce à leur longue histoire parée de prestige, de mystère, mais aussi de tragédie. J'étais curieuse d'en apprendre plus sur les matières premières, ces ingrédients utilisés pour concocter des odeurs et des mélanges particuliers.
À la limite entre une biographie, un roman, un conte, des anecdotes et un documentaire, ce livre est un petit bijou pour ceux qui veulent en savoir plus sur les matières premières. Dominique Roques est un sourceur, le pont entre les parfumeurs et les producteurs de matières premières. Chaque chapitre dans ce document est dédié à une matière première et il y raconte ses anecdotes et ses souvenirs. La plume de l'auteure est romanesque, ses souvenirs sont bien rendus sur page, on se sent transporté à chaque lieu. Dans chaque chapitre, on y reçoit un cours d'économie, d'histoire, de géopolitique, de science, de religion et d'agriculture. C'est une lecture dense, oui, mais passionnante pour ceux qui veulent en apprendre plus. Ce roman m'a permi d'avoir une meilleure appréciation pour tout le travail qui va derrière l'élaboration des parfums. En Occident, on le considère comme un objet de luxe issu du capitalisme, mais ailleurs, il est un objet sacré, parfois religieux. Ses matières premières sont le gagne-pain de plusieurs. Agriculteurs, travailleurs, hommes, femmes, enfants... Tous y mettent leur sueur et leur sang.
J'ai un respect renouvelé et une envie de visiter ces lieux mythiques qui contribuent à la création des parfums. Suite à ma lecture, j'ai envie de développer mon nez et de sentir ces ingrédients à leur source. Tout mon respect va à ces travailleurs de l'ombre qui cultivent des ingrédients convoités par plusieurs, parfois teintés de sang, de corruption, mais aussi d'amour et de respect de la nature.
À la limite entre une biographie, un roman, un conte, des anecdotes et un documentaire, ce livre est un petit bijou pour ceux qui veulent en savoir plus sur les matières premières. Dominique Roques est un sourceur, le pont entre les parfumeurs et les producteurs de matières premières. Chaque chapitre dans ce document est dédié à une matière première et il y raconte ses anecdotes et ses souvenirs. La plume de l'auteure est romanesque, ses souvenirs sont bien rendus sur page, on se sent transporté à chaque lieu. Dans chaque chapitre, on y reçoit un cours d'économie, d'histoire, de géopolitique, de science, de religion et d'agriculture. C'est une lecture dense, oui, mais passionnante pour ceux qui veulent en apprendre plus. Ce roman m'a permi d'avoir une meilleure appréciation pour tout le travail qui va derrière l'élaboration des parfums. En Occident, on le considère comme un objet de luxe issu du capitalisme, mais ailleurs, il est un objet sacré, parfois religieux. Ses matières premières sont le gagne-pain de plusieurs. Agriculteurs, travailleurs, hommes, femmes, enfants... Tous y mettent leur sueur et leur sang.
J'ai un respect renouvelé et une envie de visiter ces lieux mythiques qui contribuent à la création des parfums. Suite à ma lecture, j'ai envie de développer mon nez et de sentir ces ingrédients à leur source. Tout mon respect va à ces travailleurs de l'ombre qui cultivent des ingrédients convoités par plusieurs, parfois teintés de sang, de corruption, mais aussi d'amour et de respect de la nature.
August 29, 2025
Een prachtig boek over de oorsprong van parfums. De schrijver reist de hele wereld rond op zoek naar de allerbeste basisgeuren voor parfums. Geur is heel fascinerend en roept herinneringen op naar vervlogen tijden. Ik zelf ben altijd op zoek naar geurende rozen.
March 23, 2025
This is a fascinating book about one man's global journey to find the 15 most coveted botanicals used in perfumery. The illustrations are lovely, and you can almost smell the fragrances.
August 8, 2022
Thank you to Good Reading and Welbeck Publishing ANZ for my copy.
I really enjoyed this book about the quest for beautiful fragrances all over the world from different plants. The author is obviously passionate about plants, scents and the hardworking people that labour intensively, often for very little payment to harvest the ingredients for perfumes. Every detail is explained of the hard work that goes into growing, harvesting, extracting, distilling and much more to obtain what many people take for granted when they spray on a fragrance or light a candle or incense.
The entire book is also a history lesson about plants and the silk roads and spice routes of the world.
Never boring and very interesting reading about all the different techniques and I wish I could smell some of the fragrances so beautifully described.
Climate change is discussed as well as the exploitation of the plants and the people trying to earn a living from them. It was nice to read the chapter on Sandalwood as it grows in my home state of Western Australia. I must also add that the cover is stunning and caught my eye straight away.
Overall a great read and I think anyone that loves fragrance and plants would enjoy this book.
I really enjoyed this book about the quest for beautiful fragrances all over the world from different plants. The author is obviously passionate about plants, scents and the hardworking people that labour intensively, often for very little payment to harvest the ingredients for perfumes. Every detail is explained of the hard work that goes into growing, harvesting, extracting, distilling and much more to obtain what many people take for granted when they spray on a fragrance or light a candle or incense.
The entire book is also a history lesson about plants and the silk roads and spice routes of the world.
Never boring and very interesting reading about all the different techniques and I wish I could smell some of the fragrances so beautifully described.
Climate change is discussed as well as the exploitation of the plants and the people trying to earn a living from them. It was nice to read the chapter on Sandalwood as it grows in my home state of Western Australia. I must also add that the cover is stunning and caught my eye straight away.
Overall a great read and I think anyone that loves fragrance and plants would enjoy this book.
September 13, 2023
I found this such a fascinating read. Quite obsessed with perfume and reading the stories behind all the different natural scents that make up the greatest perfumes and how they are sourced was such an eye opener. Def gives an insight into why certain perfumes are so expensive because tons of rose petals go into making one kilo of rose oil or the trees that produce myrrh and frankincense are in a war torn or corrupt country that make supply uncertain. The book focuses on 16-17 different ingredients starting with flowers and moving on to woods. Almost all of them are found in third world countries where rainforests abound. I had never heard of Cistus which is not used for its flowers but the labdanum gum which it secretes and which has amber notes, that vétiver comes from the roots of a tropical grass, that the tonka bean doesn’t smell of vanilla but “at the intersection of tobacco, honey, vanilla and benzoin” and that oud from the aquilaria tree has an animalic scent evoking goats or cheese but when blended with other oils elevated and heightens them. There is a lot of name dropping but only the first name so I had to do a lot of googling - but I learnt a lot about master perfumers and their creations.
January 22, 2025
I absolutely loved this book!
Exploring exotic places in search of the most authentic and aromatic perfume ingredients through the author’s vivid storytelling gave similar vibes of Sir David Attenborough’s adventures. What stood out to me most was the emphasis on the socio-economic challenges tied to the growing demand for natural ingredients and the importance of promoting sustainable and ethical harvesting practices.
Exploring exotic places in search of the most authentic and aromatic perfume ingredients through the author’s vivid storytelling gave similar vibes of Sir David Attenborough’s adventures. What stood out to me most was the emphasis on the socio-economic challenges tied to the growing demand for natural ingredients and the importance of promoting sustainable and ethical harvesting practices.
Read
July 2, 2024Colonialism is one hell of a drug. It may be worth a read if you love perfume and can tolerate a heavy-handed White Savior narrative.
January 3, 2025
Utterly brilliant. A must read for any perfume enthusiast. A very enjoyable read about the sources of the ingredients used in perfumery. I feel like travelling to those places to see for myself
May 1, 2025
“Una tarde de abril, en Andalucía, al doblar una curva en la comarca del Andévalo, me quedé deslumbrado ante el espectáculo de los campos de ládano en flor, anuncio del hechizo que iba a experimentar al descubrir el perfume de esta tierra y a las gentes que lo recolectan”.
“Todos llevamos impresa para siempre la huella de una estela de lilas, de un camino bordeado de retama, del olor de los seres queridos”.
“El olor del jazmín encarna para mí algo que pertenece al orden de la belleza absoluta. Al llegar a nuestro cerebro, el perfume de sus flores provoca una sensación inmediata de felicidad. Narcótico y cautivador, familiar y lejano a la vez, el jazmín nos turba, evocación del dulzor de los jardines mediterráneos, mezclada con embriagadores efluvios exóticos, casi animales”.
“Con la mirra y el incienso, el perfume sobrepasa el mero registro del olor para entrar en la dimensión de la historia más antigua, de figuras legendarias, rastros fabulosos, caravanas y civilizaciones desaparecidas. De este viaje tan largo que desafía nuestros puntos de referencia, el perfume es un jalón inmemorial”.
“Mi viaje a lo largo de todos estos años me ha hecho descubrir la alquimia que capta la sustancia aromática de la tierra para refinarla antes de dispersarla en el aire. Al igual que el instrumento transforma el soplo del músico en una melodía, el alambique condensa el vapor en perfume en un truco de magia muy similar. El soplo y el vapor escapan del cobre para convertirse en música o perfume, mensajeros de la belleza del mundo”.
“En los alambiques entran millones de flores, de ramas, de trozos de corteza y de granos de resina, portadores todos ellos de su propio proceso en la naturaleza, destilados para convertirse en elixires, ensamblados y, por último, infinitamente concentrados en un frasco. Al abrir el frasco, el perfume explosiona y escapa, devolviendo poco a poco el entramado de las historias que le han confiado. Se abre camino, breve escala sobre nuestra piel, estela potente y cercana durante algunas horas. Después se aleja suavemente, desaparece para contar en el aire todo lo que le ha confiado la tierra en las fuentes de los perfumes del mundo”.
“Todos llevamos impresa para siempre la huella de una estela de lilas, de un camino bordeado de retama, del olor de los seres queridos”.
“El olor del jazmín encarna para mí algo que pertenece al orden de la belleza absoluta. Al llegar a nuestro cerebro, el perfume de sus flores provoca una sensación inmediata de felicidad. Narcótico y cautivador, familiar y lejano a la vez, el jazmín nos turba, evocación del dulzor de los jardines mediterráneos, mezclada con embriagadores efluvios exóticos, casi animales”.
“Con la mirra y el incienso, el perfume sobrepasa el mero registro del olor para entrar en la dimensión de la historia más antigua, de figuras legendarias, rastros fabulosos, caravanas y civilizaciones desaparecidas. De este viaje tan largo que desafía nuestros puntos de referencia, el perfume es un jalón inmemorial”.
“Mi viaje a lo largo de todos estos años me ha hecho descubrir la alquimia que capta la sustancia aromática de la tierra para refinarla antes de dispersarla en el aire. Al igual que el instrumento transforma el soplo del músico en una melodía, el alambique condensa el vapor en perfume en un truco de magia muy similar. El soplo y el vapor escapan del cobre para convertirse en música o perfume, mensajeros de la belleza del mundo”.
“En los alambiques entran millones de flores, de ramas, de trozos de corteza y de granos de resina, portadores todos ellos de su propio proceso en la naturaleza, destilados para convertirse en elixires, ensamblados y, por último, infinitamente concentrados en un frasco. Al abrir el frasco, el perfume explosiona y escapa, devolviendo poco a poco el entramado de las historias que le han confiado. Se abre camino, breve escala sobre nuestra piel, estela potente y cercana durante algunas horas. Después se aleja suavemente, desaparece para contar en el aire todo lo que le ha confiado la tierra en las fuentes de los perfumes del mundo”.
December 26, 2021
Interessante excursus nel mondo delle essenze, scritto da un responsabile dell'approvvigionamento e della ricerca delle materie prime di un'azienda produttrice di profumi. Per un neofita come me è una lettura piacevole, probabilmente per chi ne sa già qualcosa potrebbe risultare un po' troppo superficiale in quanto non ci si addentra più di tanto nei temi e i capitoli dedicati ad ogni materia prima sono piuttosto brevi, incentrati più su un racconto di viaggio e di esperienze personali dell'autore.
August 28, 2024
Utilizando el perfume y diferentes esencias naturales como hilo conductor, el autor nos transporta a rincones, mucho de ellos prácticamente inexplorados, trabajados con técnicas milenarias por los lugareños y recolectores a los que el libro, justificadamente, rinde un precioso homenaje.
Todo un alegato ecologista que, al igual que un buen perfume, evoca tanto paisajes y rutas milenarias como a las gentes que los habitan y recorren y que nos cuenta como el amor por la naturaleza, es perfectamente compatible con la sabiduría con la que se explotan sus recursos.
Todo un alegato ecologista que, al igual que un buen perfume, evoca tanto paisajes y rutas milenarias como a las gentes que los habitan y recorren y que nos cuenta como el amor por la naturaleza, es perfectamente compatible con la sabiduría con la que se explotan sus recursos.
October 3, 2025
Une merveilleuse odyssée au cœur des fleurs, plantes et senteurs….
May 2, 2024
I don’t know if anybody else is on Perfume TikTok/IG, but I've been neck deep and recently become fascinated with the backstory of the perfumes and scents that tantalize our senses in everyday life. When I spray my perfume before work, I've become curious about where the vanilla in my new favorite scent came from and how it transforms from bean to bottle.
In Search of Perfumes was a truly engrossing nonfiction-memoir hybrid that genuinely took me on a journey alongside longtime perfumer Roques. Bulgarian roses. Madagascan vanilla. Australian sandalwood. French lavender (by the way—did you know the famous French lavender fields aren’t REALLY lavender?!). Indian jasmine. Laotian benzoin.
The artistry, tradition, blood, sweat, and tears that go behind growing, harvesting, and distilling these scents is truly awe-inspiring. Roques was so descriptive in his environmental details that you as a reader really felt like you were there on the farms and in the forests—I was truly immersed.
But this book wasn’t all roses. To be honest, I could have done without Roques integrating a memoir aspect into In Search of Perfumes. In full transparency, while the farmers and workers who grow the scents we love have an immense sense of pride in what they do, it was hard to ignore the power dynamic between Roques and those he was visiting. Honestly, to a point that the book made me feel a little exploitative and gross… Quality perfume is incredibly expensive, but this book really has you connecting some dots. These workers and growers are out there sometimes quite literally risking life and limb, yet they are still living in incredible poverty, getting paid the bare minimum by these multi-billion dollar luxury fashion houses that Roques represents, who then turn around and mark up the costs tremendously to make a sizable profit. Roques boasting about driving negotiations with these sellers on behalf of the fashion houses was a constant reminder of how deep this exploitation runs and how unbalanced the power dynamic is, particularly within countries like Haiti, Somaliland, and Madagascar.
Aside from this, if you love a good scent and want to know more about how countless hours of labor, resources, and tradition are managed to be squeezed into a little bottle sitting on your dresser, I recommend In Search of Perfumes.
In Search of Perfumes was a truly engrossing nonfiction-memoir hybrid that genuinely took me on a journey alongside longtime perfumer Roques. Bulgarian roses. Madagascan vanilla. Australian sandalwood. French lavender (by the way—did you know the famous French lavender fields aren’t REALLY lavender?!). Indian jasmine. Laotian benzoin.
The artistry, tradition, blood, sweat, and tears that go behind growing, harvesting, and distilling these scents is truly awe-inspiring. Roques was so descriptive in his environmental details that you as a reader really felt like you were there on the farms and in the forests—I was truly immersed.
But this book wasn’t all roses. To be honest, I could have done without Roques integrating a memoir aspect into In Search of Perfumes. In full transparency, while the farmers and workers who grow the scents we love have an immense sense of pride in what they do, it was hard to ignore the power dynamic between Roques and those he was visiting. Honestly, to a point that the book made me feel a little exploitative and gross… Quality perfume is incredibly expensive, but this book really has you connecting some dots. These workers and growers are out there sometimes quite literally risking life and limb, yet they are still living in incredible poverty, getting paid the bare minimum by these multi-billion dollar luxury fashion houses that Roques represents, who then turn around and mark up the costs tremendously to make a sizable profit. Roques boasting about driving negotiations with these sellers on behalf of the fashion houses was a constant reminder of how deep this exploitation runs and how unbalanced the power dynamic is, particularly within countries like Haiti, Somaliland, and Madagascar.
Aside from this, if you love a good scent and want to know more about how countless hours of labor, resources, and tradition are managed to be squeezed into a little bottle sitting on your dresser, I recommend In Search of Perfumes.
August 9, 2022
Perfume is a subjective treasure….we all have favourites, daily dabs, free samples and that sneaky spray as we stroll through an upmarket perfume department. But do we ever think about the ingredients and production methods of scents that transport us to another time, another place?
Dominique Roques works behind the scenes to connect the growers, producers and perfume houses of the world and has written a book about his travels. The anecdotal style makes you feel as if you are accompanying him….viewing the fragrant fields and orchards, yarning with families in the game for generations, dealing with success and failure, tragedy and joy.
It took me a while to fall into the rhythm of the book but each chapter told me new things and the photos of the artisans and labourers and the traditional implements of the trade were fascinating. I have a new respect for these bottles of delight and will look more closely into their provenance….particularly these days when we should all be a little kinder to the planet and those who provide us with so many things we take for granted.
Thanks to Good Reading Magazine and Welbeck Publishing for the preview copy.
Dominique Roques works behind the scenes to connect the growers, producers and perfume houses of the world and has written a book about his travels. The anecdotal style makes you feel as if you are accompanying him….viewing the fragrant fields and orchards, yarning with families in the game for generations, dealing with success and failure, tragedy and joy.
It took me a while to fall into the rhythm of the book but each chapter told me new things and the photos of the artisans and labourers and the traditional implements of the trade were fascinating. I have a new respect for these bottles of delight and will look more closely into their provenance….particularly these days when we should all be a little kinder to the planet and those who provide us with so many things we take for granted.
Thanks to Good Reading Magazine and Welbeck Publishing for the preview copy.
November 20, 2024
I usually keep my thoughts in my reading journal but this book irked me. Was it beautifully written? Yes. Did I enjoy learning about some technicalities about perfume? Absolutely, it's why I bought it in the first place. But there seemed to be a disregard towards the conditions in which these materials are gathered. In the chapter about Jasmine, there is mention and a photograph of Egyptian women with basketfuls of Jasmine blossoms they picked. Don't gloss over the difficulty of the handiwork or how they're not compensated enough for such hard work. We all love glamour and the shimmering side of the olfactory industry but give me substance and realness too, please. The industry is not very ethical, and while this book didn't have to be a resounding piece of watchdog journalism, it is still important to discuss these issues. But that's just my opinion <3
December 9, 2022
Following the sources for key parts of perfumes brings the reader to places which tend to be off the beaten trail. Somaliland, the country that isn't, is the source of the frankincense used in perfumes for example.
A town in Western Australia used to be the source of the magical pink diamond, until they ran out. What's next? How about sandalwood? Apparently the appearance of a competitor has pushed India to change its game.
So the information provided in this book on perfume is nothing to sniff at. Interest in the book should not just be those interested in perfume, travelers, too, should find places to investigate.
A town in Western Australia used to be the source of the magical pink diamond, until they ran out. What's next? How about sandalwood? Apparently the appearance of a competitor has pushed India to change its game.
So the information provided in this book on perfume is nothing to sniff at. Interest in the book should not just be those interested in perfume, travelers, too, should find places to investigate.
October 17, 2022
I had a hard time finishing this relatively short and undemanding book because the writing is monotonous and fluffy. Basically all the author does is gush about the extraordinary plants and trees he has had the privilege to work with and the extraordinary human beings he's met in the process. Strewn with little homilies about the virtuous practices he's been promoting, the book alludes to all the poaching and destruction he's witnessed without giving enough details about this complex industry and the rape of natural ressources that the high prices of certain plants has inevitably caused.
November 16, 2022
《香氣採集者》的作者Dominique Roques是瑞士香水製造商芬美意（Firmenich）的採購總長，有三十年的業界經驗，合作過的國際知名品牌有Bulgari, Thierry Mugler, Guerlain, 和Yves Saint Laurent⋯等等。我原本以為這會是本教課書感的香料解析書籍，讀了以後才發現它其實相當精彩有趣，根本是本遊記，讀者在文字中跟隨著作者遊歷全球，橫跨歐洲、南美、非洲和南亞，尤其許多地方是一般旅客根本到不了的偏鄉小鎮或驚險極地，其中對於人物的深刻描繪十分引人入勝，對當地的社會民風與風光景色的精彩形容更是讓我大開眼界，我覺得就算你對香氛或香料不感興趣都能在這本書裡找到樂趣。
這本書很特別的地方是作者敘述了他和多位全球知名的調香師的一同旅遊與工作的經驗，其中有提到Alberto Morillas、Marie Salamagne和Fabrice Pellegrin⋯⋯等人，讓讀者一窺這些帶有神秘色彩的調香師們私下的個性與工作態度。另外讓我很感動的是，此書的文字優美且內容流暢，譯者應該下了很多苦心，功不可沒！
這本書很特別的地方是作者敘述了他和多位全球知名的調香師的一同旅遊與工作的經驗，其中有提到Alberto Morillas、Marie Salamagne和Fabrice Pellegrin⋯⋯等人，讓讀者一窺這些帶有神秘色彩的調香師們私下的個性與工作態度。另外讓我很感動的是，此書的文字優美且內容流暢，譯者應該下了很多苦心，功不可沒！
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