Zero Waste Patterns: 20 Projects to Sew Your Own Wardrobe

by Birgitta Helmersson

Zero Waste Patterns offers a modern approach to sustainable sewing. Using natural fabrics and core sewing techniques, learn how to stitch without waste and make a scandi-style collection of 20 garments. Zero waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. You use a pre-determined length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that everything is used and then draw them onto the fabric. By using this unique 'paperless' method you can eliminate both textile and paper waste from your sewing projects and take the fear out of learning to self draft and sew your own clothing.  This book includes 5 simple zero waste pattern blocks – a t-shirt, skirt, tank top, shirt and trousers. These can then be used to make a further 15 projects by making simple changes or mixing and matching your blocks into new designs, and comes with pattern layout instructions and templates to make sizes UK 6-30/US 2-26.  Once you have mastered the 5 blocks the possibilities are endless.

Genres: Nonfiction, Sewing, Reference, Fashion, Crafts

192 pages, Paperback

First published May 25, 2023

Reviews

[Irene Adler · Rating 3 out of 5]

I very much like the idea behind this book: the reduction of waste in fashion. And the reuse of vintage textiles rather than always buying new.

Unfortunately I didn't really like the patterns, which are mostly boxy and bulky - think bog coat. It's the usual problem - fabric is 2D and rectangular and bodies are 3D and curved. IMO this problem is not overcome with these patterns, which make few concessions to the bodies underneath, and the results are consequently not my aesthetic. Also, while it's good to use up all the fabric, sometimes this seems to be done by sewing them into or on the main garment in odd (even ugly) ways.

If you are new to sewing, there are some good beginner patterns here. There aren't really any I consider advanced, but there are some more difficult techniques such as pattern drafting with curves and bias-binding for finishing edges.

The contents are:
Introduction - worth a read.
How to use this book - bit astonished at the range of fabric widths suggested, as only 3 widths are usually available to me locally. Would allow the reuse of vintage textiles or off-cuts if you have them.
Tools and techniques - not sure about flipping the fabric 90 degrees, might work, but the greater stability on the warp and stretch on the weft in woven is the reason most patterns don't do this for major pattern pieces. Approach with caution, and don't use for most knits. The way bias binding is produced and in-seam pockets are inserted are new to me, look complicated, but are worth a try in case it's easier in reality. 'Underarm taping' and 'Inserting a sleeve' are specific to problems encountered for these patterns and are well explained. The instructions and illustrations are clear.

Moving on to the patterns:

Blocks (base patterns)
Tee - Bog-coat variations really
Trouser - Elastic-waisted straight leg trouser. If you have a large difference between your waist and hip measurements there will be a lot of material gathered at your waist.
Singlet - Some darts! A camisole top.
Skirt - Some hip to waist shaping
Shirt - Boxy with collar and buttons, little bit of sleeve shaping so the sleeves hang better.

Projects (variations or hacks)
Foldback collar dress - bog coat with buttons. This is my favourite, but only because of the vintage table cloth used. I wouldn't wear this shape.
Sweater - tee with thick fabric
Wrap top - bog coat with tails to wrap the waist and give it some shape.
Boiler suit - tee plus trouser
Shorts - short trouser plus belt loops and sash
Play suit - singlet plus trouser
Sun dress - singlet plus skirt
Patchwork singlet
Slip dress - extended singlet, again a beautiful vintage table cloth but I really question the unfortunate placement of the cutwork.
Tiered skirt
Triangle skirt
Gathered shirt dress - tee plus gathered fabric
Shirt dress - shirt extended
Vintage shirt - shirt with gathered cuffs
Quilted jacket - quilted layered tee

I wanted to like this more. But I find I'm interested in the discussion and the theory of the zero waste patterns and not in sewing these clothes.

[Johanna · Rating 4 out of 5]

I love the idea of zero waste clothes, and relish the challenge of cutting and constructing garments differently. I have bought individual patterns from Birgitta that I love: zero waste block pants which I have made twice: once in a wool fabric for winter and once in a linen for summer. I wear these a lot. I also adore her soft blouse pattern with it’s twisted puff sleeves and plan to make one with long sleeves too: the zero waste patterns mean that you can make a small amount if material into a garment, so I could use the one metre of Indian block fabric I bought from merchant and mills for the soft blouse.

I was disappointed with the range of patterns in the book however, and struggled with the fit for the dungarees (not suited for those with busts above a B cup in my view as there are no darts). I did however love the shorts pattern. I managed to use less than a metre piece of Dutch African wax print fabric. No side seams, so an easy as well as economical make which was stylish and easy to adapt.

[A Pečauer · Rating 3 out of 5]

You’re probably not going to get much use out of the included patterns if you take this out as an e-book from your library. It still has use for construction tips and general inspiration. I disagree on the thread to fabric guide. At several points I thought to myself, this is so Australian millennial. Overall, not a book that rocked my world.

[Arlow · Rating 4 out of 5]

Beautiful and innovative designs! I wish there was more of a variety to work with, but as a start it's fantastic! I highly recommend for beginner and confident beginner sewists. The author explains everything extremely well and in depth. I'm looking forward to adding some of these pieces to my own wardrobe :)

[Sarah Bodin · Rating 5 out of 5]

Even if I make nothing from this book it was such an insightful read. I typically do not read the first few chapters in a sewing book but I throughly enjoyed the first 3 chapters. Would recommend.

[Mary · Rating 3 out of 5]

Great book but not my style

[Victoria · Rating 5 out of 5]

I think I'll need to buy this one!