Couture Sewing Techniques, Revised and Updated

by Claire B. Shaeffer

The world of haute couture is a place where only a privileged few can ever hope to reside, right? Wrong. Fashion historian Claire B. Shaeffer opened the door to this exclusive realm in her authoritative guide to the techniques that define couture sewing. And now, the industry bible, Couture Sewing Techniques , has been revised and updated throughout ― with new photos and a chapter on specialty fabrics. No one can unravel couture garment construction the way Shaeffer can, from the art of hand sewing to mastering edge finishes, from classic closures to shaping a garment for a perfect fit. Readers learn all the basics ― and more how to apply the techniques ― on skirts and sleeves, pockets and jackets, evening gowns, and more . Gorgeous photos, clear illustrations, and concise language combine to make this the most complete couture-sewing course available.

Genres: Sewing, Fashion, Nonfiction, Crafts, Reference, How To, Dressmaking

224 pages, Paperback

First published June 9, 2014

Reviews

[Margie · Rating 4 out of 5]

Unlike her book "High Fashion Sewing Secrets," this book does not offer detailed, step-by-step instructions for all of the techniques discussed. It does offer plenty of diagrams and photos, but the majority of the techniques are described in text. There's a lot to be learned from the text! This book is densely packed with information, and even home sewers will learn something from it. It's important to note, though, that if you're looking for step-by-step instruction, or are looking for machine sewing techniques (rather than couture hand sewing), "High Fashion Sewing Secrets" would be a better choice.

[Mrelia · Rating 5 out of 5]

I love to sew, but I am not a fashion person. In fact, I've never understood how anyone could drop thousands of dollars on a single garment.

But looking at the work that goes into a true couture garment has made me change my mind about that segment of the market, at least. I am in awe of the amount of work, the careful attention to the tiniest of details and the "invisible" elements of construction that elevate clothing to couture.

I've started revising my sewing habits and though I'm spending more time in construction, I'm already seeing tremendous improvements in my projects.

[Lisapins · Rating 3 out of 5]

I wish the techniques were illustrated step by step, and in greater detail.

[Sammy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Let’s start with what this book is and isn’t.

It isn’t a guide to dressmaking, draping, or pattern making, and nor does it include any step-by-step projects.

Instead, it begins with an overview of how couture garments are generally designed and made, and then moves onto specific sections such as skirts, dresses, trousers, sleeves, pockets, fastenings, etc.

In each section, the various different approaches or construction techniques are discussed, with instructions and diagrams illustrating how couture sewing uses that technique to deliver its focus on a flawless fit and finish.

So will this book show you how to make an end-to-end garment? No. But if you’re already planning or making a garment, it could give you ideas for how to refine your technique and maximise the fit and finish.

As such, although I’ve given it a read through, I will probably retain it as a reference guide and come back to certain techniques and sections when I am next working on something that might benefit them, and I think this book will be really useful in that respect.

[Cindy Tan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Packed with info but not many step by step pictures / diagrams.

I felt like I have to read the whole thing before deciding what kind of hemming should I go for.

I think Couture Sewing Techniques by Linda Maynard is a better choice as there are more pictures, as well as she put a "Summary" of the book in pictures. Thus we can see all kind of hemming, decorative stitches etc that are discussed in a book in only a few pages, and dive straight in after we know the page number.

Another better option would be Reader's Digest Sewing, which is my favorite. It's the most thorough and most complete sewing guide book. It has step by step pics / diagrams, making it very easy to follow. The only drawback is that the book does not specialises in Haute Couture, it covers RTW.

[Denise Link · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a detailed reference book densely packed with information, but I read it from cover to cover. I also highlighted more passages than I did in college. I have been a sewist for 45 years, but recently made a concerted effort to up my game and learn more about couture. Most techniques here are not difficult, just different and sometimes more time-consuming than traditional home-sewing methods. (Except the tailored jacket chapter. Wow, that looks like a lot of work!) If you sew, or if you're interested in fashion, you'll learn something from this book.

[Michele · Rating 5 out of 5]

I thought this book was a fascinating look into the techniques used in couture sewing. I later went to a seminar by Clair Shaeffer and she genuinely knows couture inside and out.

[James · Rating 4 out of 5]

Starts with basic hand sewing and advances until at the end you are working on complex constructions. A great reference work but not a good textbook, includes a glossary, bibliography and sources of supply from 2001. There's also a good chunk of history on Haute Couture and how the industry works. A level of sewing craft far above my ambitions, but still interesting to read.

[Stoof · Rating 3 out of 5]

Shaeffer packs this book with information. Many of the techniques aren't necessary but they are satisfying and do make a garment seem more finished and polished.

This book has no step-by-step instructions and very few diagrams or helpful photographs. This is a great book to accompany a library of sewing techniques, but it should absolutely not be your only book. The value of Couture Sewing Techniques is in its finishes and unusual little extra steps (such as sewing beads to a zipper), not in its explanations of common sewing techniques such as kick pleats or facings (my favourite book for this is Connie Amaden-Crawford's Guide to Fashion Sewing).

I'd recommend this to intermediate to expert level sewers who have the time and the desire to learn some extra finishing techniques for women's wear.

[Kayleen · Rating 5 out of 5]

So far it does seem to be completely revised. Making a good book even better.

[Kate · Rating 4 out of 5]

need to add this to my library. one of those books a sewist needs to have on the shelf to refer to when necessary

[Eve · Rating 5 out of 5]

Claire Shaeffer's comprehensive knowledge of the couture industry and techniques is exquisitely displayed in Couture Sewing Techniques. Learning about the socioeconomic history of the famous ateliers was an eye opening and lavish experience. After reading this book, my skepticism for couture price tags and fashion shows has transformed into awed respect for the artists. My 'to learn' list for sewing techniques has also grown exponentially.

The layout of the revised edition makes skimming to topics of choice a breeze. I wish this book were spiral bound. It's difficult to keep the correct techniques displayed when in the middle of a project. As such, I use Couture Sewing Techniques more as an illustrative guide that I augment with some 'how to' Googling.

This book is a must have for any serious sewer looking to elevate their game.

[Ligaya · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is an amazing book on couture clothing construction and will also inform a home sewist's sewing decisions but it is not a book for the new seamstress. I found this amazingly dense to read (and finally had to skim the last 50 pages...). It is filled with tips and tricks from the author and the writing is fairly clear although much would have been made even simpler if accompanied by more photos and more and larger graphics. The vintage clothing is a blast to see! The Index and Bibliography are valuable resources. This book deserves a spot on your reference shelf.

[Mary · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book really helped me revise the way I approach sewing to make better quality garments which I am more happy with then things I have made in the past. The information on techniques such as thread tracing and hand basting has given me better control over the fabric I am working with, even when using a sewing machine. The layout of the information in the first section of the book makes it easy to reference when working on a specific technical parts of a garment, and the more in-depth looks at specific types of garments in the second half nicely addresses the specific challenges faced with constructing those garments.

[Lisa · Rating 4 out of 5]

If you are a very experienced home sewer - this book has some very helpful instructions on how to take the time and hand sew/finish your clothing to give it a more stylized/professional/high end look.

If you are not a very experienced home sewer - some of the language/skills may be over you knowledge base.

[Beverly · Rating 4 out of 5]

I borrowed this from the library to see if I should buy it. The answer is: yes. My skills are not quite where they need to be to make the most of the book, but it will make an excellent reference to have handy.

[Rachel · Rating 3 out of 5]

Ended up flicking thru this book rather than reading cover to cover. Interesting content but slightly too dense for me to get true value. May be a result of my preferred learning style and the age of the book.

[Angel Ackerman · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read this book years ago and I still reference it. I can’t sew to save my life but I am fascinated with haute couture (and write about it in my Fashion and Fiends novels) so I reference this book, its diagrams, photos and historical information all the time. I adore this book.

[Halfdime · Rating 5 out of 5]

I’ve had this book maybe 10 years; the methods are gold, and the examples have inspired me to deviate from standard practices which really does elevate my finished items. It’s a worthwhile and well used reference book in my library.

[Yycdaisy · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting, especially the historical stuff. It did, however, make me realize I do not care about some of the detailed things they do for this type of sewing and design. Good for those who get excited about it I guess.

[Minka · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is so full of amazing techniques. I'll e definitely buying one of my own as this one was from library.

[Robyn Galbreath · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great reference for hand-sewing techniques and really helped me learn what makes a garment well constructed.

[Kayla · Rating 5 out of 5]

Really 4.5. I wish it had more pictures!

[Amber · Rating 5 out of 5]

Yes.

[Gail Richmond · Rating 4 out of 5]

Finishing techniques...all kinds! Everything to make your project look professionally made.

[ELDEE · Rating 4 out of 5]

I received this reference book as a gift and it will be a book that will always be close to my heart. Not a sit-down and finish read usually but something I will refer to through life's pursuits

[Smiley · Rating 5 out of 5]

Fantastic book! Very informative and educational. I cannot wait to learn and master these skills.

[Conni Dawson · Rating 5 out of 5]

Absolutely fabulous book. The details shown and techniques are superb and there are so many little tricks and interesting little facts in here.

[Chelsea · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a treasure trove. So many step by step instructions for details. This is definitely a book for a confident seamstress looking to level up the little details, not a beginner.

[Sandra de Helen · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent, detailed instructions, easy to follow. I borrowed it from the library and liked it so much I bought two copies.