Three Castles Burning: A History of Dublin in Twelve Streets

by Donal Fallon

"She is no small town, and this is no small story"
BASED ON THE POPULAR DUBLIN HISTORY PODCAST

Wander through some of Dublin's less obvious but more interesting streets and roads such as Henrietta Street, Watling Street, Fownes Street and Kildare Road.

On the Dublin streets we walk every day, there are hidden reminders of the lesser-known heroes and events that have contributed to the evolving story of our capital. The city's motto, 'the obedience of the citizens produces a happy city', may feel outdated and loaded today but the three burning castles of its ancient coat of arms have come to represent the indomitable spirit, creativity and vision that define this big town.

Inspired by the No. 1 podcast, Three Castles Burning: A History of Dublin in Twelve Streets champions the activists, workers, architects, poets, migrants, artists and merchants who have made and remade the city we know and love by going beneath the many layers of twelve key streets where they lived and worked. Because, in the city Joyce called the 'Hibernian Metropolis', the disobedience of its citizens is the cornerstone of its past, present and future.

This combination of social, cultural, industrial and commercial, and political history, through the prism of the places where revolutions great and small were sparked, offers the reader a fresh and unexpected take on Ireland's capital city.

Genres: History, Ireland, Nonfiction, Irish Literature, Travel

306 pages, Paperback

Published November 16, 2022

Reviews

[Niall O'Malley · Rating 5 out of 5]

Every page has something of interest, to anyone who lives in Dublin, has visited Dublin, or even to those who've never set foot in Dublin. A fascinating way of telling a Citys history through streets that thousands walk each day in innocent ignorance of all that has gone before them.

[Katie Jones · Rating 4 out of 5]

Next edition should include a lovely map imo!

[Paige]

DNF at p29

I love the idea of this book, but — admittedly having read about only the first of twelve streets — found the execution disappointing. We flitted from topic to topic, rarely staying in a time period or with a person for more than a paragraph or a page. Shallower than I was hoping for.

9.11.23

[Shane Bradley · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting, if somewhat disjointed, look at the social history of Dublin. Lots of fascinating nuggets about familiar places that I'll be sure to take a closer look at the next time I travel down one of these 12 streets. A glaringly obvious missed opportunity however was the decision to have no maps included. Found myself using Google Earth as a companion to this book

[Jim Murphy · Rating 4 out of 5]

This book is a great read and I also recommend listening to the 'Three Castles Burning' podcast. I have given the book 4 rather than 5 stars as I found the later chapters a little heavy going and not as entertaining as the earlier ones, but I would still highly recommend reading it.

[Keith Kavanagh · Rating 3 out of 5]

not my usual choice but a welcome one after departing the twisting, labyrinthian tour of dublin that is ulysses
I would have preferred more stories about characters because what good is a street without the people living on it

[Moss · Rating 4 out of 5]

Must explore my home city more! Loved the history of this book, particularly late 19th early 20th: Dublin Lockouts, Rising socialism, nationalism, the drinkers of Grogans, the changing loyalist/nationalist demographics of the city…

[Jerry Ó · Rating 5 out of 5]

Brilliant book. Brings dublin alive

[Ciara H · Rating 4 out of 5]

I really enjoy listening to Donal Fallon, he has great enthusiasm for his subject and his mind flits from topic to topic drawing unexpected connections.
This book is no different. It presents the history of well known Dublin streets but instead of a stuffy list of dates, Fallon presents social history and the impact of various events.
Easy to read, filled with interesting snippets along with details of historical events. Each chapter covers a different street.

[Breige · Rating 4 out of 5]

hree Castles Burning by Donal Fallon is a book based off the social history podcast with the same name. In the book, Donal selects 12 different Dublin streets & looks at their history, through the people that lived there and those that shaped the streets

I wasn’t aware of the podcast before picking this up. I spotted this when in Dublin in December last year & it intrigued me. Each of the street were selected for different historical and modern reasons, such as housing issues, tourism, classism, activism, industry and highlights how the streets changed over the years, big names who are linked to these streets and interesting feature still to be seen today

While a lot of the streets have history dating back before 20th century which is mentioned, a lot of the information in this relates to early 20th century and the characters involved in the fight for independence and civil war. But the book does also focus on other people, the ordinary workers, activists, architects, artists and poets who make up Dublin’s rich tapestry

I think a Dubliner may have the best appreciation for this book,
Someone who is very familiar with their city. But that said, I do think everyone can enjoy this, especially if you’re curious with cities and their histories

My favourites are probably Watling Street (about brewing and distilling) and Ship Street (by Dublin Castle, who’s name in Irish actually translates to Sheep Street, who’s name probably got mistranslated into Irish due to accent error)

The book does have photos through but it’s possible you’ll be on Google Streetview like me looking at the different streets being mentioned! I took this photo in Dublin in December shortly after buying the book

[Joe O'Donnell · Rating 5 out of 5]

It is the city of Dublin’s misfortune to be administered by a council that appears to hate its own citizens and by a government bureaucracy whose vision is to see the entire cityscape redeveloped as one big hotel. There is a feeling that, post-pandemic, the city is enduring a malaise – its purpose seemingly focused on addressing the whims of tourists rather than the needs of its own citizens – so it can be easy to overlook what makes Dublin great.

Dublin is a city blessed by the quality of its storytellers and historians, and it surely has few more ardent champions that the indefatigable Donal Fallon. In “Three Castles Burning: A History of Dublin in Twelve Streets”, Fallon sets out to tell the story of the city through the prism of a dozen districts and thoroughfares. Through these twelve streets (a chapter focusing on each one), he explores the key themes in the development of Dublin city, from commerce and trade unionism, radical republicanism, the city’s brewing tradition, policing and firefighting, feminism, Catholicism and censorship, through to the battle to conserve Dublin’s archaeological and architectural treasures.

What makes “Three Castles Burning” such a lively, enlightening read are the connections that Donal Fallon sketches. Who else could draw the links from Vietnamese immigrants to the 19th century campaign for Home Rule, and on to the 1974 Dublin and Monaghan bombings, with the D1 techno record label ... and all through the inauspicious environs of Parnell Street East? Through these associations, Fallon illuminates streets that people like me have been blithely traipsing for decades.

Taking in a span of over 1,000 years (dodgy millennium celebrations notwithstanding), “Three Castles Burning” presents morsels even the most knowledgeable Dubliner may not be familiar with. The origins of that time-honoured phrase synonymous with Dublin chippers - “a one and one” – are revealed. Dublin’s past - whether through the Vietnamese of the North-Inner City or the ‘Little Italy’ district of Ship Street - is shown to be much more multicultural than you might think. There is even an attempt to rehabilitate the reputation of the tourist trap of Temple Bar (or a small part of it, anyway) in the shape of the Quakers and United Irishmen of Eustace Street.

Dublin’s most famous sons (Behan, Swift, O’Connell, Pearse, Lynott, and so on) all get their dues throughout the book. But “Three Castles Burning” also throws the spotlight on the city’s unsung heroes, like the visionary city architect Herbert Simms, the preservationist Uinseann MacEoin (saviour of Henrietta Street), the indomitable Terry Fagan of the Inner City Folklore Project, and Alderman Thomas Kelly (the early 20th century crusader for quality housing). By highlighting such ‘ordinary’ fighters for Dublin city, “Three Castles Burning” isn’t just a psycho-geographic study, but also acts as a rallying call for radical activism.

If Dublin was obliterated in a nuclear catastrophe (not an impossibility given how carelessly Dublin City Council are currently administering it), “Three Castles Burning” could be applied as a blueprint to rebuild it from scratch. But this book is also a timely reminder of what makes living in the city bearable and the generations of Dubliners who have made the Hibernian metropolis. Dublin ain’t dead yet, and “Three Castles Burning” brilliantly captures its still beating heart.

[Matthew · Rating 3 out of 5]

What a great idea for a book - telling the story of a city through a sketch of the histories of some of its streets.
As I read through the histories I initially felt that the panoply of characters that appear ever so briefly made it difficult to get a sense of any characters or narrative, but taking a step back I realised that the flesh-and-blood people were incidental to the real story and character, that of the city itself. The overall effect is a multi-faceted portrayal of Dublin, from the riches-to-rags story of Henrietta Street to the origins of Rathmines township, to the 1916 surrender in Moore Street. The fleeting anecdotes of people and events served as illustrative detail in the portrait of each street. That said, I also appreciated the biographical sketches of figures like Patrick Pearse, Robert Emmet and Thomas Clarke.

I learned a lot about my home city and its past, from streets I am familiar with like Pearse Street, Eustace Street in Temple Bar and Moore Street to places I have barely, if ever, set foot, like Watling Street and Ship Street. I echo other reviews in wishing there was a map in the book, showing where each street lies in relation to the surrounding areas alluded to in each essay chapter.
I think there is definite scope for a sequel along the same theme - another 12 streets that could add even more richness to the portrayal of Dublin offered here.

I found Donal's podcast during lockdown, around the same time as this book was being written, and I appreciate his passion for the history of Dublin and his ability to tell these stories in an engaging way. I look forward to reading more of his books.

[Sylvia · Rating 4 out of 5]

I've only listened to the Three Castles Burning podcast once or twice and I stumbled across this book which was also good timing before I head to Dublin.

I've been to Dublin a few times and it's definitely a city which, on first impressions, feels like it has been totally consumed by tourism at the expense of residents (who can still afford to live there). So it is a pleasure to read something like this from someone who clearly has a love and passion for the city and showcases a lot of things from just a few streets that feels authentic and interesting. This is the kind of 'tourism,' I like and something that Fallon mentions at the start of the book, that tourism is about that search for authenticity.

This is definitely a book made for people who have visited Dublin before and/or have some understandings of Irish/Dublin history. I would also say that this book has a left-lean to it, which is very much welcomed.

I feel more prepared and excited for my next visit to Dublin now, with a bit more knowledge and a new understanding and appreciation of what it means to people living there.

[Kevin Burke · Rating 4 out of 5]

This one does what it says on the tin - a social history of Dublin over the past 400 years or so centred around 12 streets, one per chapter, each covering a winding route down the street's history. So the chapter on Henrietta Street looks at its shift from fashionable address to tenement blocks (driven by the Act of Union), its cameos as Victorian London on telly and in Ulysses, and its residents executed during the War of Independence and seeing active service in Gallipoli and on the Western Front. Watling Street is similarly varied - the Guinness Brewery (which made £1.25m in profit in 1908), Dublin ale and brewing in general, and on to the Liffey Swim, the subject of Jack B Keats' Olympic silver medal-winning 1924 painting, and some petty interference from John Charles McQuaid.

It'd be easy for this to get repetitive, and it does at times, but mostly there's enough areas to cover that any repetition isn't really noticed. There's Henry Sheehy-Skeffington, Protestant Rathmines, gun rings hidden in churches, the Wood Quay controversy, the Moore Street traders, Grogan's pub, Handel's Messiah (the New Musick Hall on Fishamble Street, where it was first heard, is now gone; Jonathan Swift objected to his choir members being involved, but he was a bit loony by that stage so was ignored), the British Army's reports on the comings and goings at Tom Clarke's newsagents opposite where the Parnell monument is now, the early days of the Fire Brigade, the first Italian chipper on Ship Street in 1882, and a segment in vague praise of Temple Bar. Pearse Street is named after Pádraig Pearse but Pearse Station is named after both Pádraig and his brother Willie (Sráid an Phiarsaigh and Stáisiún na bPiarsach). Ship Street is really Sheep Street (Sráid na gCaorach). The Easter Rising doesn't feature till chapter 7, an indication of just how much else there is to recount.

We need more of this kind of book.

[Francesco · Rating 5 out of 5]

Un libro eccellente che narra la storia di alcune strade di Dublino.
Ho apprezzato molto la decisione dell'autore di includere non solo le vie più celebri dal punto di vista turistico, ma anche quelle di rilevanza storica, come quelle che hanno subito significativi cambiamenti dopo o durante la rivoluzione irlandese.

Ogni capitolo si concentra su una strada specifica, offrendo numerosi collegamenti con gli eventi che ne hanno segnato la storia.

L'autore dimostra una grande passione e il libro è scritto con cura, arricchito da citazioni e fotografie d'epoca molto affascinanti.

È un'ottima risorsa per chi desidera approfondire la conoscenza di Dublino, sia per un viaggio, sia per esplorare la storia d'Irlanda attraverso la sua capitale. Se lo trovate in una libreria irlandese, ve lo consiglio vivamente.

[Mary · Rating 5 out of 5]

Three Castles Burning was a brilliant book detailing the unique history of Dublin through its charming old streets. While each street held its own distinct landmarks and events, Fallon weaved their history together with the rest of the city by exploring the politics, poverty and culture of the area, with overarching themes of resistance and humanity. I loved how he told the story of the Irish rebellion and how different parts of the city engaged in it, from labor unions, to music and writing, to organized militias. This book reflected upon the character of Dublin and its people, while exploring so many facets of Irish history that there is something for everyone in this book.

[Books, Brews, and Tunes · Rating 5 out of 5]

An incredible book. One of the most refreshing and unique history books I have ever read.

It took me a little bit but once I finally devoted more time to this book I realized what a masterpiece it was. A truly unique way to tell the history of a city and its people. This book takes the mundane streets we walk and brings them to life. An amazing way to have the streets and buildings tell the cultural, social, and political history of a city and its people.

Maybe you should be into Irish history to truly enjoy this, but I think if you enjoy history in general you'll get a huge kick out of this.

[Paul Daly · Rating 4 out of 5]

Dipping into “me jewel and darlin’ Dublin” through time and space; chronicling the change over time that is the historian’s job; and visiting with the great and the good, the extraordinary and the everyday people who have made the “Hibernian Metropolis”, Donal Fallon has added another wonderful literary and historical work to a city that revels in its own songs and stories. If you want more or indeed a flavor of same before you dip into this charming wee book, then check out his “Three Castles Burning” podcast. You won’t be sorry.

[Alan Bolger · Rating 4 out of 5]

A really informative edition on some of Dublin’s most recognisable streetscapes. The history of each street is examined with real depth without feeling overstretched or repetitive. There’s a real sense of continuity between the chapters, painting Dublin in a wider context. The book gives you a tangible desire to explore Dublin again and pay attention to details you might not have noticed in the past. Definitely in need of a second edition.

[Ronan]

I don’t often go out for “A History of [Thing] in [Number] Objects,” because no single object gets enough attention. But this version—a history of a city in 12 streets—works very well, with each street getting a proper portrait. Fallon’s focuses on the real people who lived in inner Dublin (as opposed to the usual Big Names and Events) makes this a richer account than it might have been. A very good book, and I’ll be sure to check out the podcast as well.

[T P Kennedy · Rating 4 out of 5]

A delightful book. Tracing the history of Dublin through 12 carefully selected streets is a great idea. There's enough here to engage the interest. That's my only frustration - some of the history here is so interesting, I'd have liked more. Nicely laid out volume with good illustrations.

[Dave · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting but far from a history, much broader and indeed narrower at the same time. Desperately in need of a map at the start of each street, especially with the name changes and other context.

Enjoyable and a quick read.

[Liam Coussens · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was an interesting dive into Dublin history, without going too deep into any one topic. There are probably 50+ more streets that could get this treatment (and I would definitely buy that book) but as an overview I think these work well together.

[Donal Reilly · Rating 5 out of 5]

I actually went out and walked the streets after.

One of the most unique books on Dublin ever published. Strongest chapters are Moore Street and Henrietta Street. One criticism - some of the streets mentioned in promo/Amazon etc didn't make the book, including Kildare Road!

[Hope · Rating 2 out of 5]

a choppy, albeit interesting, history of dublin. hard to follow at times, especially without an in depth knowledge of irish history but i still enjoyed the tidbits of each street. really could’ve used a map to reference.

[James Thomas Nugent · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very enjoyable read especially if you live and work in Dublin.

I learned a lot I didn't know.

Well worth a read!

[Steve Doyle · Rating 5 out of 5]

Brilliant!

[Conor Moynihan · Rating 4 out of 5]

A very interesting read on Dublins history in brief, through 12 of its streets. Easy to read, with interesting snippets of history. Would definitely recommend.

[Jake · Rating 4 out of 5]

An enjoyable and educational wander through the story lined streets of Dublin history.

[Eve O'C · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is really superb. I adored every page. So well researched but a rollicking read at the same time.