Settlers: Journeys Through the Food, Faith and Culture of Black African London

by Jimi Famurewa

A journey into the hidden, vibrant world of Black African London.

What makes a Londoner? What is it to be Black, African and British? And how can we understand the many tangled roots of our modern nation without knowing the story of how it came to be?

This is a story that begins not with the 'Windrush Generation' of Caribbean immigrants to Britain, but with post-1960s arrivals from African countries like Nigeria, Ghana, Zimbabwe and Somalia. Some came from former British colonies in the wake of newfound independence; others arrived seeking prosperity and an English education for their children. Now, in the 2020s, their descendants have unleashed a tidal wave of creativity and cultural production stretching from Lambeth to Lagos, Islington to the Ivory Coast. Daniel Kaluuya and Skepta; John Boyega and Little Simz; Edward Enninful and Bukayo Saka – everywhere you look, across the fields of sport, business, fashion, the arts and beyond, there are the descendants of Black African families that were governed by many of the same immutable, shared traditions.

In this book Jimi Famurewa, a British-Nigerian journalist, journeys into the hidden yet vibrant world of African London. Seeking to understand the ties that bind Black African Londoners together and link them with their home countries, he visits their places of worship, roams around markets and restaurants, attends a traditional Nigerian engagement ceremony, shadows them on their morning journeys to far-flung grammar schools and listens to stories from shopkeepers and activists, artists and politicians.

But this isn't just the story of energetic, ambitious Londoners. Jimi also uncovers a darker side, of racial discrimination between White and Black communities and, between Black Africans and Afro-Caribbeans. He investigates the troublesome practice of 'farming' in which young Black Nigerians were sent to live with White British foster parents, examines historic interaction with the police, and reveals the friction between traditional Black African customs and the stresses of modern life in diaspora. This is a vivid new portrait of London, and of modern Britain.

Genres: Nonfiction, London

297 pages, Kindle Edition

Published October 13, 2022

Reviews

[Rachel Matthews · Rating 5 out of 5]

In each chapter of Settlers, Jimi Famurewa shines a light on a different aspect of life for African Londoners. He deftly weaves between past and present helping readers understand how what came before has led to where we are now.

I am Black African, I grew up and came of age in London so this book really resonated with me. The chapters on food, church and education in particular rang true and reflected my own experiences in a London whose demographic was changing before my eyes.

I loved that Famurewa tried to include more from African countries we don't see represented as often in Western mainstream media which tends to focus on West Africa where any African representation does exist. While I think this book does still skew towards West Africa, Famurewa tries harder than most to be inclusive.

Straddling the line between our African heritage and our London-based cultural experiences is a real struggle for many Black African Londoners particularly those born and educated in London. It's a bitter pill to swallow when even after adhering to all the "rules" of being a Londoner - speaking like one, eating like one, dressing like one - you find yourself ostracized because you're still Black at the end of the day.

Carving out a space for Black African Londoners continues to be a struggle. There will always be those who are angered by the very existence of Black African people in London but, as Famurewa's book clearly shows, we exist, and are thriving, in every cultural sphere with no sign of us going anywhere any time soon.

[Esme Kemp · Rating 5 out of 5]

Loved it! Not reflective of how slow it took me to read this. Loved all the individual chapters and the thread throughout, written accessibly and with love and care. Obviously more focus on West Africans, specifically Nigerian culture but that’s his jam. And over-use of sentences starting with “that” just a small pet peeve. But can see very influenced by David Olusoga and who can have a single issue with *that* !!!!

[Andrew · Rating 5 out of 5]

The Windrush era has all too often defined contemporary Black Britain. This book focuses on those who arrived in Britain directly from the African Continent and represent the largest and most significant portion of Black British society. Very much a continuing story, as Africans have been present in the British Isles for centuries.

The author Jimi Famurewa, covers the impact African Settlers have had on modern Britain. While focusing mainly on those of West African heritage, he does bring into the story some who have links to other parts of the continent. From food to education, faith and religion to Arts & Culture, Film and Theatre to Politics, the African presence cannot be overlooked.

I found this book an excellent read, and I would recommend it.

[Carole Tyrrell · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a book about the African experience in London and it is a really entertaining, although at times very shocking, read.
The author, Jimi Famurewa, is the restaurant critic for the London Evening Standard and I’ve always found his reviews to be very lively and colourful. And Settlers is no exception. From the prologue in which he describes the black African presence in London as
‘Black African presence can be glimpsed in the whir of seamstresses at work off Dalston’s Ridley Road Market, the smell of the spice prickled puff of barbecued croaker fish drifting on the Old Kent Road.’ These are images and smells that a Sarf Londoner like me can relate to.
Then with more arresting sensual images, the author invites the reader to
‘let us walk with unwrinkled nose, past the market stalls piled high with plantain, cassava, cow foot and strung together garlands of stockfish, through restaurants, Congolese pubs…..waakye joints.’ Famurewa is himself Nigerian and references the traditional Nigerian foods such as jollof rice and pounded yam several times in the book.
He states in the prologue that his intention when writing the book
‘while in the first throes of writing the book had been to accentuate the positive; to compose a deliberately celebratory and joyous snapshot of Black African diaspora culture.’
And I would say that he has succeeded. It has so much positivity as when, for example, he is discussing the growth of African restaurants which was something I noticed when living near Lewisham, SE London. However, there is also a serious side to the book as when he discusses racism and socio-economic disadvantage amongst other barriers.
The book is divided into 8 chapters beginning with ‘Farm’ which is another name for the practice of some African families of fostering their children with white UK families during the 60s and 70s. Other chapters involve markets, religion, restaurants and suburbia amongst others. Racism is discussed including the needless, tragic deaths of Damilola Taylor and Stephen Lawrence as well as the sad and appalling death of David Oluwale. The blue badge commemorating his drowning by a bridge in Leeds has recently been stolen and so it carries on. The author also writes about his own experience of it and the ‘black flight’ to the suburbs of SE London and Kent.
The African community seems more visible these days with African restaurants, shops and the small general stores. The author reveals how important they are to the local African community as a meeting place and the preservation of a culture. The ones in Woolwich which were familiar to me seen from along the bus route are in danger of disappearing under gentrification which is sad as another part of London life vanishes. There is also the money transfer element with the large signs on shop windows. Until I read this book, I hadn’t realised how vital sending money home is to the African community. For example, the Somali community transfers over £1 billion pounds annually. This book is full of little sidelights like this.
The chapter on restaurants begins with one African eaterie, Ikoyi, being awarded a Michelin star which created a furore. There were concerns about its authenticity, but does it want to cater for a strictly African clientele or broaden its appeal? The author also mentions the large portions at African restaurants which are designed to enable diners to leave with plenty of leftovers ‘
in a truly sophisticated doggy bag operation….’
This book was a real insight into the West African community in London and avoids the urban, inner city image as the African community moves out of inner London.
It’s a very visual book which also involves the five senses. The descriptions of market stalls or fast food joints with their pungent, familiar scents and colours, the hum of seamstresses sewing machines enabling them to survive possibly as a second job. It was such a portrait of a community determined, no matter what tried to get in the their way, to make something of themselves in the brave new world that they and their descendants had arrived in.
This book was an entertaining and thought-provoking glimpse into a world that I was only aware of as an observer passing through. It was a fascinating read and at times it must have been a difficult book to write. But the impression that I was left with was of an entrepreneurial culture that ingeniously found way around the barriers that were put in their way.

[Sarah · Rating 5 out of 5]

As an educator I feel really educated by this book. It feels like a series of essays but is far from dull. It introduced me into another side of the London I know, and the youth I teach. It's combination of history and current London life, his own lived experiences and those of many others make it easy to keep engrossed in, and he writes in a really beautiful way.

[Zoë Siobhan Baillie · Rating 5 out of 5]

My favourite non fiction book I've read all year, and one that seems under hyped. I lived in London during my teens and 20s and this book made me miss Ridley Road Market more than I already did (no decent street markets in Edinburgh...).

This book has so much to offer, is really thorough, surprisingly radical, beautifully well written. Each chapter discusses a different element of African diaspora life in London, focusing mostly on contemporary life but always grounded in historical context.

I'll be recommending this to all Londoner friends.

[Bethan Evans · Rating 4 out of 5]

A really interesting and well researched celebration of Black African London. I thought the chapters were well structured and the book overall covered more ground than I expected when I bought it (tbh I thought it was gonna mostly be about food and it rly wasn’t!!). I particularly liked the chapters on markets, religion and food, and I also liked how a wide range of countries and cultures were highlighted in the book. I do think the chapters which related to topics that Jimi had more personal experience of read a bit better/more passionately but I guess that’s to be expected. Overall a fun read and I learned lots!

(One smol criticism which I think is a publishing error but the last chapter was in a different font size to the rest of them lol.)

[Sadhia Khan · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fantastically written and really describes a populations experiences very well. I found some chapters more difficult to be captivated by me than others- this is likely a me problem. Writing is very good. Content is also excellent. Thanks

[Phoebe Williams · Rating 5 out of 5]

A fantastic read. Well structured and just such a brilliant read. Honest. Reflective. Discussion triggering. Loved it!

[Asliali · Rating 4 out of 5]

Love being African, love being from London, love learning about hidden histories 😘

[Abisola · Rating 5 out of 5]

Such a brilliant book