Fierce Heart: The Story of Makaha and the Soul of Hawaiian Surfing

by Stuart Holmes Coleman

Fierce Heart is the biography of a community and a portrait of its people. Although Makaha is a small, isolated town on the Western coast of Oahu, it has produced some of the most intriguing Hawaiians of the twentieth world-class surfers Buffalo Keaulana and his sons Rusty and Brian; beautiful skin diver and surfing pro Rell Sunn; and larger than life singer and songwriter Israel Kamakawiwo’ole. What connects them is a love for their culture, their people, and various kinds of water sports. Fierce Heart combines stories of exciting big wave surfing competitions, dramatic water rescues, deep friendships, and touching family portraits with a look at the history and origins of one of the world’s most thrilling extreme sports.

Genres: Nonfiction

336 pages, Hardcover

First published April 28, 2009

About the author

Stuart Holmes Coleman has had two lifelong passions, writing and surfing. The son of a minister, he was baptized as a surfer in the small waves of Charleston, S.C. Surfing helped him overcome his childhood fears of tidal waves and drowning. While taking a unique course called “Cultures of the Pacific” in school, he began dreaming about living in Hawaii some day. After graduating from the University of South Carolina’s Honors College, Coleman moved to Los Angeles for bigger surf and better career opportunities. In L.A., he worked as an arts editor for an entertainment magazine. Returning to the East Coast in 1991, he studied at American University’s Creative Writing Program and received an MFA degree. In 1993, Coleman finally realized his dream of moving to Hawaii. In the Islands, he soon learned about the legendary Eddie Aikau, the man who rode swells the size of tidal waves and saved hundreds of lives from the deadly surf. Working on EDDIE WOULD GO allowed Coleman to pursue his passions for surfing and writing.

As a writer, Coleman has been published in numerous publications, including The Associated Press, The Washington Post, USA Today, Charleston Magazine, Honolulu Magazine, Hemispheres and Longboard Magazine. His articles on Eddie have appeared in The Honolulu Advertiser, Destinations and Surfer’s Path. Coleman has won a number of writing honors, including U.S.C.’s Waring Award for Creative Writing and the Writer-in-Residence position at St. Albans School. His poems have been published in journals like The Atlanta Review, The Formalist and The Hawaii Review.

http://stuart-coleman.com

Reviews

[Andrew O'Riordan · Rating 5 out of 5]

It's not easy to write about the Waianae Coast, one of the most complex and troubled corners of a paradise state that promotes easy sunshine living. It's a place full of myths and legends, heroes and villains, hope and despair.

In his second book, Coleman rises to the challenge of demystifying the West Side. He tells human stories of the most revered West side figures: Buffalo Keaulana, Rell Sunn, Israel Kamakawiwo'ole, the extended Keaulana clan. Through the words, thoughts, and struggles of these Hawaiians, we begin to understand the raw spirit of this special Hawaiian coast.

Coleman took a risk in writing this book, just as he did in his fine biography of Eddie Aikau. In order to create a valuable record of the coast and not just a hagiography, he had to portray the tribulations as much as the successes of Wainae's favorite children. With respect for his subjects as well as the truth, Coleman truly enlightens the reader about the Sons and Daughters of Makaha. To those who who want to create myths about modern day heroes, this truth-telling may be uncomfortable. To those who want to know about the remarkable people of the Wainae Coast, and how they have braved crime, poverty, and exclusion to develop an authentic and modern Hawaiian lifestyle, this book can be a revelation.

[Erlinda · Rating 4 out of 5]

This is a really interesting, detailed history of Mākaha and the people of O′ahu’s westside. People like Buffalo Keaulana and his family; Rell Sunn; Iz and the Makaha Sons of Ni′ihau, and the early surfers from the mainland. Some of the history I’ve heard before, but Coleman really brings it to life with many interviews and quotes from the people who were there at the beginning, when Mākaha was known only to locals. Coleman, who also wrote the book Eddie Would Go, is Hawai′i Regional Coordinator of the Surfrider Foundation. He also included a great index and bibliography, which makes my librarian heart happy.

[Jaimal · Rating 5 out of 5]

Doing this Saltwater Buddha book tour, I’ve felt a little saturated with surf book talk. In-fact, I’ve been on a bit of surf lit boycott. Nothing against them, it’s just that in my little spare reading time, I’ve wanted to curl up with fantasy novels that make me dream of wizards and fairies rather than Amazon rankings. But waiting for my computer to reboot one day, Stuart Coleman’s new book, Fierce Heart: The Story of Makaha and the Soul of Hawaiian Surfing,
was lying in front of me, so I started to read. Now I’m immersed.

Stuart has transported me happily back to Hawaii – the sights, the sounds, the smells. Following the charismatic icons of Oahu’s rugged westside surf scene – people like Brother Iz, Rell Sun, Buffalo Keaulana and his sons Rusty and Brian – Stuart captures the spirit of the Hawaiian people in a way that makes you look at a place you may think you know with fresh eyes. Passages like this one, where Brian Keaulana is explaining the origins of the term “Aloha” to Stuart, keep popping up and making want to dig deeper.

“When people come to Hawaii, they hear people say, ‘Aloha,’” Brian says. “But they don’t really understand the kauna, which is like the meaning.” He explained that alo is like the leaf of the taro plant and signifies the human face, and ha is like the breath of life. “The Hawaiians used to put their heads together and exchange breaths. So ha is like Chinese chi or Japanese ki. When greeting each other or departing, they would touch foreheads and exchange breaths. “Aloha is enveloping someone with your whole essence or aura. It’s understanding the true essence of yourself and giving it to others.” Rell once defined aloha as “giving and giving until you have nothing left to give,” and she said this was the fate of the Hawaiian people.

That last sentence, “giving until you have nothing left to give” has stuck with me. Like the Native Americans, the Hawaiians were so generous to their colonizers that they nearly vanished. Hearing how it happened makes you realize why Hawaii has an angry side, but seeing how Hawaiians like the Keaulanas, Rell, and IZ have channeled that anger into art, surfing, and just plain do-gooding, maintaining Aloha in the face of so many challenges – is inspirational. Any book that got me to break my surf reading fast has got to be good. I definitely recommend it. Thanks Stuart!

Pick up a copy here.

[Christina]

Stuart has contributed another gift to the Hawaiian community, especially those who love surfing. Eddie Would Go was his first book and this, his second on Hawaii, is about the West side of the Oahu island and the community of Makaha (which means Fierce Heart in Hawaiian). We appreciate his hours of work and dedication to this project!

[Jenna · Rating 2 out of 5]

Interesting subject, very poor writing, too-narrow focus. The writer fawns, but doesn't delve.

[laura · Rating 1 out of 5]

I was SO excited for this book. The topic is very interesting to me but the execution sucked. I just found the writing very juvenile and did not like the author's style at all. He spends too much time singing the praises of the people he likes and bashing everyone else. Nothing is nuanced or subtle and I don't feel like I learned anything.

[Susan · Rating 4 out of 5]

The usual disclaimer for many of the Hawaiiana books--you must be a Hawaii nerd to appreciate.
A fascinating history of Makaha and westside surfing and community legends.
Wonderfully blended, weaves back and forth over generations.
Very clear that the author is heavily invested in his ohana.

[Lindsay Yap · Rating 4 out of 5]

Read for my history class. Written by a haole, but does not take away from the stories. The people of Makaha had to trust him to share their stories clearly. Sometimes a little slower and longer where I think it did not need to be. I thought it was really well done and I learned so much!!!

[Alex · Rating 4 out of 5]

Fierce Heart is highly recommended for anyone even remotely into surfing—Makaha is one of the classic surfing spots in the world. But it’s not just about that, it’s a take on a distinctive modern Hawaiian culture forged in the remote shores of West O’ahu. Readers who want to catch a glimpse of its recent history, as seen through the accomplishments of its most inspiring citizens will find this a pleasurable read. It’s a collection of “talk story” tales and first-person accounts, expertly weaved together in an easy-to-read novella format by Stuart Coleman. He truly received a treasure when he was blessed with the story of Eddie Aikau and the legends of Makaha, and has done a fantastic job honoring their legacy through these books.

More of my review here:
http://www.hawaiibookblog.com/?p=3640

[John · Rating 3 out of 5]

Surfing and Hawaii sounds awesome thing to read but when it is written in the most dull and boring fashion imaginable... good grief. Very informative and I learned a lot of new things about people and Hawaiian culture, but I realized this was the same author who wrote Eddie Would Go. Eddie Aiku's story is fascinating and at times an unbelievable life and yet, the author's style manages to make these things dry, less exciting, or simply drag on. Certain moments, there are flashes of creativity in descriptions but generally I'm left with a snoozefest. Like his other book, Fierce Heart could have been so much more.

[LK · Rating 3 out of 5]

An informative book that tells much more of a story than the bios of three people. For me, the best part of the read is the surfing history parts, where Coleman's writing is less broken up by personal anecdotes of interviewees. Well worth reading. I'm now planning to read Coleman's previous book, Eddie Would Go.

[Mondobondo · Rating 5 out of 5]

What can i say about Coleman's follow up to the captivating Eddie Would Go but mahalo. With so much focus on North Shore surfing in the popular press the story of surfing on the west side (Makaha) and the flourishing of the true Hawaiian spirit is bedrock for anyone who loves the ocean.
Get the book, read it, think about it and then pass it on. ALOHA!

[Jenny · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great quick read that gives you some background on a few of Hawaii's recent icons, the people you SHOULD know if you want to know about the real Hawaiian vibe. It is inspirational and sad at the same time because some of the people who are written about have passed on. I feel like I missed an important era of recent Hawaiian history. Guess I'll have to soak in what's left.

[Eric Shaffer · Rating 5 out of 5]

Certainly, this is best multi-thread narrative history of the west of O‘ahu, with a great deal of great information about the lives of Rell Sunn and Iz as well as the Keaulanas. For an idea of what Hawai‘i is like off the resort trail, this book gives a convincing glimpse.

[Niki Haworth · Rating 4 out of 5]

As with Eddie Would Go, Coleman's love of surfing and respect and appreciation of the Hawaiian culture comes through on every page. He manages to show both the greatness and the fallibility/humanity in everyone he writes about.

And this book didn't make me cry!

[Kathy Priester · Rating 4 out of 5]

Definitely worth reading, I laughed and cried and recommended it to my daughter who lives in Hawaii. Made me rethink how I perceive the Hawaiian culture. I also read 'Eddie Would Go' by the same author and would recommend it as well.

[Herb Bradley · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a great book. I never wanted it to end.. Its more of a bunch of short stories.. I don't want to spoil it for anyone That's all I will say. If you surf you will absolutely love it.. If anyone wishes to trade books especially books on surfing I would be more than happy..

[Samantha · Rating 4 out of 5]

Puts you right there in Hawaii for an introduction and the biographical storytelling of a few interesting and influential people from Makaha. If you like Iz, surfing and history, this is a good read to feel Hawaiian Aloha while on the mainland.

[Malinda · Rating 5 out of 5]

awesome awesome awesome!

[B.j. · Rating 3 out of 5]

This book is a must read if you spend any time in the Makaha area. Otherwise, the story is too regionally specific to be interesting.

[Pamela Shimono · Rating 4 out of 5]

It was interesting reading about some history of Hawaii that I did not know. This book took me a long time to finish but well worth the read. Also nice to read about IZ

[Dotty · Rating 3 out of 5]

I enjoyed it - but if you have not lived on Oahu, you might not. For me, it brought back many lovely memories of living there...