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Climb Smarter: Mental Skills and Techniques for Climbing
We all know that climbing is a headgame, and many climbers recognise that their mindset is holding them back. But what psychological skills do you need for climbing, and how do you develop them? If you have ever wanted to learn how to climb with more confidence, to learn how to stick to a training plan, or to understand how to tap into flow, then this book is for you.
Split into three sections, covering getting started on a mental skills training programme, fixing problems in your climbing caused by anxiety, and finessing your mental skills, this book provides clear explanations and practical exercises to improve your mindset for climbing.
You’ll learn to analyse your mental strengths and weaknesses, set effective goals, change habits, overcome fear of falling, fear of failing, fear of injury and social anxieties affecting climbers’ performance. Chapters on confidence, focusing skills, imagery and visualisation, and problem solving and creativity in your climbing are all written in a practical and easy to understand format, so you can incorporate these skills into your climbing training. There is also a section on mental wellbeing for climbers, with hints and tips on healthy perfectionism, as well as mental health.
This book draws on the latest in climbing and sport psychology research, and translates it into practical accessible ideas and exercises for climbers at all levels of the sport.
Split into three sections, covering getting started on a mental skills training programme, fixing problems in your climbing caused by anxiety, and finessing your mental skills, this book provides clear explanations and practical exercises to improve your mindset for climbing.
You’ll learn to analyse your mental strengths and weaknesses, set effective goals, change habits, overcome fear of falling, fear of failing, fear of injury and social anxieties affecting climbers’ performance. Chapters on confidence, focusing skills, imagery and visualisation, and problem solving and creativity in your climbing are all written in a practical and easy to understand format, so you can incorporate these skills into your climbing training. There is also a section on mental wellbeing for climbers, with hints and tips on healthy perfectionism, as well as mental health.
This book draws on the latest in climbing and sport psychology research, and translates it into practical accessible ideas and exercises for climbers at all levels of the sport.
260 pages, Paperback
Published May 6, 2022
2 people are currently reading
16 people want to read
About the author
Rebecca Williams
1 bookDr Rebecca Williams is a Consultant Clinical Psychologist and performance psychology coach, working with climbers for the last 15 years. She’s trained and experienced in psychotherapy, including CBT and ACT, holds a level 7 certificate in coaching and mentoring, and is a qualified climbing instructor (RCI).
Rebecca has delivered thousands of hours of individual coaching, group workshops, coach education and lectures, for climbers and coaches interested in improving their headgame for climbing. She has facilitated workshops for Mountain Training Association, the Diploma in Mountain Medicine, NICAS, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC), and many climbing and mountaineering clubs. In 2018, she delivered the psychology keynote speech at the International Rock Climbing Research Association Congress in Chamonix, and is a founder member of the International Association of Psychologists in Climbing. She is passionate about using making psychology accessible and practical, and translating psychological research into mainstream techniques and coaching practices.
Rebecca has delivered thousands of hours of individual coaching, group workshops, coach education and lectures, for climbers and coaches interested in improving their headgame for climbing. She has facilitated workshops for Mountain Training Association, the Diploma in Mountain Medicine, NICAS, the British Mountaineering Council (BMC), and many climbing and mountaineering clubs. In 2018, she delivered the psychology keynote speech at the International Rock Climbing Research Association Congress in Chamonix, and is a founder member of the International Association of Psychologists in Climbing. She is passionate about using making psychology accessible and practical, and translating psychological research into mainstream techniques and coaching practices.
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December 30, 2024
I absolutely love, love this book! It is surprisingly comprehensive, covering not just the fear of falling but also topics like goal setting and planning, social anxiety, expectation management, confidence, attention, visualization, and more. It even invites readers to reflect on their life values by imagining themselves at 80 years old, looking back at their lives. Rebecca Williams navigates these topics with rigor and meticulous attention. As a trained clinical psychologist, she skillfully introduces psychological theories and their application to climbing. Exploring the intersection of two passions of mine—social science and climbing—is utterly enjoyable.
Among the many lessons I learned from this book, the most important—and the one I initially sought out—is how to cope with the fear of falling.
I appreciate Rebecca’s insight that what is commonly called the "fear of falling" is often not a fear of the sensation of falling. Instead, in most cases (and certainly in mine), it stems from a reluctance to climb to the point of failure. This behavior arises from various factors, such as concerns about safety, a fear of losing control, or a preference for "sending" climbs without failure.
Because the fear of falling is not just about the sensation, the commonly recommended falling practice isn’t entirely effective. Most climbers practice by intentionally jumping off the wall, but this differs significantly from the experience of an uncontrolled fall resulting from a failed hard move. Rebecca emphasizes that overcoming the need to stay in control is crucial. She advises training this skill by attempting harder-than-limit climbs on top rope, engaging in speed climbing, or playing climbing games. Additionally, she stresses that falling practice must be paired with relaxation. If climbers cannot relax after a fall, such practice might actually heighten their anxiety.
Rebecca's lessons are grounded in three guiding principles:
1. Mental skills can be trained.
2. Training requires patience and incremental steps. For instance, if you haven’t mastered relaxation for small falls, don’t rush into practicing large ones.
3. Quantify your mental skills. Assigning scores, even if subjective, allows you to track your progress over time and compare with your past self.
The systematic approach Rebecca employs reflects her conscientiousness (or "J" in the language of MBTI personality). As a result, readers who value flexibility and spontaneity may find the book a bit pedantic. Some messages are repeated across different sections, and the transitions between topics could feel disjointed at times. Nonetheless, these minor flaws don’t overshadow my appreciation for this book.
The drills Rebecca proposes are ones I absolutely need to incorporate into my training. She notes that many climbers neglect them simply because no one else seems to be doing them. But as she reminds us, we climbers don’t mind being a bit different!
Among the many lessons I learned from this book, the most important—and the one I initially sought out—is how to cope with the fear of falling.
I appreciate Rebecca’s insight that what is commonly called the "fear of falling" is often not a fear of the sensation of falling. Instead, in most cases (and certainly in mine), it stems from a reluctance to climb to the point of failure. This behavior arises from various factors, such as concerns about safety, a fear of losing control, or a preference for "sending" climbs without failure.
Because the fear of falling is not just about the sensation, the commonly recommended falling practice isn’t entirely effective. Most climbers practice by intentionally jumping off the wall, but this differs significantly from the experience of an uncontrolled fall resulting from a failed hard move. Rebecca emphasizes that overcoming the need to stay in control is crucial. She advises training this skill by attempting harder-than-limit climbs on top rope, engaging in speed climbing, or playing climbing games. Additionally, she stresses that falling practice must be paired with relaxation. If climbers cannot relax after a fall, such practice might actually heighten their anxiety.
Rebecca's lessons are grounded in three guiding principles:
1. Mental skills can be trained.
2. Training requires patience and incremental steps. For instance, if you haven’t mastered relaxation for small falls, don’t rush into practicing large ones.
3. Quantify your mental skills. Assigning scores, even if subjective, allows you to track your progress over time and compare with your past self.
The systematic approach Rebecca employs reflects her conscientiousness (or "J" in the language of MBTI personality). As a result, readers who value flexibility and spontaneity may find the book a bit pedantic. Some messages are repeated across different sections, and the transitions between topics could feel disjointed at times. Nonetheless, these minor flaws don’t overshadow my appreciation for this book.
The drills Rebecca proposes are ones I absolutely need to incorporate into my training. She notes that many climbers neglect them simply because no one else seems to be doing them. But as she reminds us, we climbers don’t mind being a bit different!
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