Kumano Kodo: Pilgrimage to Powerspots

by J. Christian Greer, Michelle K. Oing

Kumano Kodo is a journey into the hallucinogenic power of pilgrimage. Part travelogue, part speculative fiction, part scholarly history, this book speaks to the universal human impulse to explore the sacred through travel.

By focusing on Japan's oldest pilgrimage route, the Kumano Kodo, the authors offer their readers a boldly transgressive and abundantly humorous look at the merry art of pilgrimage. Whether uncovering historical conspiracies, recounting bawdy folklore, or collecting ghost stories, this surrealist investigation establishes a new paradigm for spiritual travel inspired by an impressive breadth of scholarly research, and the authors' many years as pilgrims across the globe.

Compiled in Kyoto at the height of the pandemic in 2020, the book is a unique reflection on the unwieldy power of the sacred in times of crisis, and contains dozens of original, full-color mandalas.

Paperback

Published January 1, 2022

Reviews

[Beckett Grefford · Rating 5 out of 5]

Greer and Oing take the reader on a unique mystical journey through Japan in a way you will not have experienced or even considered before.

The book weaves in many fascinating and wondrous elements from folklore, mysticism and the history of pilgrimages with theory and fiction elements to create something that is challenging to describe in terms of genre but is truly a memorable and special experience to read. The themes and ideas of the book are pretty wide in scope and the way they are assembled and presented here is very impressive in and of itself.
The topics covered are simultaneously profoundly and deep, reaching through history, mythology and to the edges of the seen and unseen worlds, but to the great credit of the writers they also relate to the internality or the personal journey and are made warm and approachable. There is humour, fun and amazement that emanates amongst all the wonder and in that sense you could not wish for better guides than Greer and Oing on such a pilgrimage as this.

The book itself is also interspersed with beautiful mandala collages by Greer which are lovely in their own right but also serve as delicious aesthetic snacks keeping the reader sustained on their trip. This really is a fascinating, imaginative and special book containing an awe inspiring journey that I fully recommend taking.

[Pythian Priestess · Rating 5 out of 5]

This travel guide is a spiritual journey through the folklore of Japan. You won’t find lodging or tea house recommendations but something much deeper!

[Zach Rose · Rating 4 out of 5]

A truly bizarre approach to a guide book. So bizarre, in fact, that I am inclined to think it was genius.

[Juha · Rating 4 out of 5]

The authors mention conducting extensive "saturation work" before their Kumano journey – essentially a comprehensive review of all available literature. This book was part of my own preparation for a planned Kumano Kodo pilgrimage, and appeared to be the most interesting long-form English text on the topic.

I was disappointed to find out that the book has the same problem as many academic articles – it starts strong with an enticing abstract, excellent introduction, and solid literature review, but then the actual content (in this case, the pilgrimage travelogue) has little to say.

(Next two paragraphs contain spoilers about the actual pilgrimage)

The pilgrimage portion reads like a university group's hiking adventure where, after an overly ambitious and strenuous first day, the authors park in a comfortable hostel and start making day trips from there – sometimes walking, sometimes by bus or car. Thus, the actual experience of pilgrimage walking is put to the side, and the travelogue focuses more on describing folklore, getting intoxicated, and the subsequent restless dreams.

This approach has literary value in demonstrating that pilgrimages – or reading about them – don't always meet expectations. Sometimes the experience falls flat and feels a bit empty. Here it leaves a slightly bitter taste, since the authors initially mock the pilgrimage industry and eco-tourists who take day trips without experiencing the proper suffering of a pilgrimage. Then, they do exactly the same thing – and don't even seem to be interested in visiting Kumano's great shrines that much.

Despite this, the book has merits. The opening section is excellent, and the sharp criticism of the World Heritage institution offers an interesting new perspective on walking the Kumano Kodo. While I'm not as negative toward the UNESCO process as the authors, this book helps recognize the layers of complexity inherent in the Kumano Kodo experience.

Just on its own merits, I would rate the book three stars, but in the sparse genre of Kumano Kodo pilgrimage literature, many sections of the book are exceptional and certainly worth a read.

[Sonia Voloshinov · Rating 5 out of 5]

I initially was expecting something closer to a conventional account of walking Japan's Kumano Kodo and was immediately told, in the opening pages, that I would not be getting that. No hotel recommendations, no suggested itineraries. Greer and Oing are not interested in that kind of book, and by the end of the prologue you're not either!!

The pilgrim vs. tourist distinction they set up early on is genuinely useful and not something I'd thought about in quite that way before. The book uses a very wide range of sources, but they're woven together naturally and clearly.

Additionally, it was lovely to read the way these two approached the pilgrimage. They show up with forged passports, a order they founded themselves, wills and testaments written the night before departure, and seeds packed to trade. This commitment is truly infectious!! They also explicitly push back against the idea that pilgrimage has to be a personal growth story, which is a refreshing change from the usual narrative.

An AWESOME and totally unique read, make sure to check it out!

[Bjorn Gay · Rating 5 out of 5]

From the back cover:
"Kumano Kodo is a journey into the hallucinogenic power of pilgrimage. Part travelogue, part speculative fiction, part scholarly history, this book speaks to the universal human impulse to explore the sacred through travel.

By focusing on Japan's oldest pilgrimage route, the Kumano Kodo, the authors offer their readers a boldly transgressive and abundantly humorous look at the merry art of pilgrimage. Whether uncovering historical conspiracies, recounting bawdy folklore, or collecting ghost stories, this surrealist investigation establishes a new paradigm for spiritual travel inspired by an impressive breadth of scholarly research, and the authors' many years as pilgrims across the globe.

Compiled in Kyoto at the height of the pandemic in 2020, the book is a unique reflection on the unwieldy power of the sacred in times of crisis, and contains dozens of original, full-color mandalas."

[Joelle · Rating 4 out of 5]

An approachable and entertaining introduction to the preparation, dedication, and journey that goes into pilgrimage. Greer and Oing apply scholarly knowledge and personal experience to paint a vivid picture of Kumano Kodo and the unconventional ways that individuals take on their ways towards salvation. Interesting distinctions about the role of the tourist and the role of the pilgrim, and how these roles have converged and blurred over time. I would have appreciated a more distinct disclaimer/discussion on the colonial implications of entering into, learning about, and, in turn, offering a guide to a place that is not local to the authors at hand. I believe it is an important topic when considering authorship and who has the right to tell (or retell) certain stories.

[Phillip Freedenberg · Rating 5 out of 5]

Kumano Kodo is a book so deeply brimming with marvel, that it’s many profound wonders overflow upon its readers with such a breathtaking hold upon the outer edges of a larger unseen grandiosity at work in the universe that it not only asks us, but it also guides us, not unlike the spirit of the pilgrimage that it describes, to dare to not only to completely reinvent, but also to entirely reimagine the way in which we see and experience the world around us.

Phillip Freedenberg
Author of America and the Cult of the Cactus Boots: A Diagnostic

[Jesse · Rating 5 out of 5]

I really enjoyed this book because of its unique and contemporary perspective on the Kumano Kodo. The writing is a mix of religious studies, art history, myth, personal narrative, and more, drawing on scholarly research, such as Victor and Edith Turner’s theory of communitas and liminality, making the writing style very engaging. Alongside the text, there are fascinating artworks that exemplify their ideas. This book is not your typical travel guide, but it gives a new, refreshing, and thoughtful pilgrimage account.

[Bob Chee · Rating 4 out of 5]

In simple terms, here is an introduction to the supernatural, and what modern day pilgrims ought to know before they embark on a pilgrimage. It's an entertaining book. I like the fact that, as someone who has never been interested in the supernatural, I find the book informative, witty even.
My only complaint is that there aren't enough pages devoted to details of the pilgrimage, but i suspect that's not the authors' aim when they penned the book.

[Reader · Rating 5 out of 5]

This was a fantastic recount of the Kumano Kodo, especially because of the unorthodox lens through which the authors view pilgrimage as a whole. I appreciated the attention to the magical aspects of this route, as it's uncommon this day and age to separate ourselves from the rational. I recently took a trip to Japan, and this book made me want to return and attempt to experience the unfathomable! 10/10, the images used were also very fantastic.

[Michelle Kennedy · Rating 5 out of 5]

i've been planning to do this pilgrimage since 2019 and this book has made me all the more excited to make my reservations soon. i think the kumano kodo will become a big deal for non-japanese tourists soon, and this book is a beautiful and weird reflection on the folklore and experience of the route.

[Jake Krueger · Rating 5 out of 5]

If you've ever thought about taking a pilgrimage--any kind of pilgrimage--then this is the book to get you started. Pushing through the gatekeeping traditionalisms, this book is a how-to for landing anywhere on a journey and elevating the experience to something life changing and eruptive.

[Yazhen Li · Rating 5 out of 5]

So insightful and engaging! As somebody entirely unfamiliar with the Kumano Kodo, this book provided an excellent background, and introduced so many thoughtful lines of discourse. It makes me want to pilgrimage there myself. Thrilling read!

[Narcondo Miamimom · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent! Unlike any other travel book I’ve ever read. 10/10

[Victoria Gooding · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book is both fascinating and transformative - it’s inspired me to make the pilgrimage myself. Beautifully written, and the mandala art is absolutely breathtaking. Highly recommended!

[Weinreich Liam · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great book! I learned a lot and highly recommend!

[Charlotte · Rating 5 out of 5]

This book was fantastic! Oing and Greer do a fabulous job of taking an extremely complex and theoretical subject and breaking it down into understandable pieces. Highly recommend.

[Matilda McKinzie · Rating 5 out of 5]

This is a fascinating discussion of pilgrimage. If you appreciate art, consider buying this book just for the artworks it contains and learn from the narratives they convey.