London Feeds Itself

by Jonathan Nunn (editor)

London is often called the best place in the world to eat – a city where a new landmark restaurant opens each day, where vertiginous towers, sprawling food halls and central neighbourhoods contain the cuisines of every country in the world. Yet, this London is not where Londoners usually eat. There is another version of London that exists in its marginal spaces, where food culture flourishes in parks and allotments, in warehouses and industrial estates, along rivers and A-roads, in baths and in libraries. A city where Londoners eat, sell, produce and distribute food every day without fanfare, where its food culture weaves in and out of daily urban existence.

In a city of rising rents, of gentrification, and displacement, this book, edited by the food writer and editor of Vittles, Jonathan Nunn, shows that the true centres of London food culture can be found in ever more creative uses of space, eked out by the people who make up the city. Its chapters explore the charged intersections between food and modern London’s varied urban conditions, from markets and railway arches to places of worship to community centres. 25 essays about 25 different buildings, structures and public amenities in which London’s vernacular food culture can be found, seen through the eyes of writers, architects, journalists and politicians – all accompanied by over 125 guides to some of the city’s best vernacular restaurants across all 33 London boroughs.

Contributors: Carla Montemayor, Jenny Lau, Mike Wilson, Claudia Roden, Stephen Buranyi, Rebecca May Johnson, Owen Hatherley, Aditya Chakrabortty, Yvonne Maxwell, Melek Erdal, Sameh Asami, Barclay Bram, Ciaran Thapar, Santiago Peluffo Soneyra, Virginia Hartley, Jess Fagin, Leah Cowan, Ruby Tandoh, Jeremy Corbyn, Dee Woods, Shahed Saleem, Amardeep Singh Dhillon, Zarina Muhammad, Yemisi Aribisala.

Genres: Nonfiction, Essays, Food

272 pages, Paperback

Published September 6, 2022

Reviews

[Matthew Marco · Rating 5 out of 5]

Beautifully written, tightly edited, and strikingly designed. Worth the price of acquiring from the UK as part of a pack of three. It opened up my map of the city and gave me a vocabulary to talk about the different diaspora communities in NYC. I’ll also add that I’m reading it simultaneously to Invisible Cities and it’s an excellent pairing.

[Peter · Rating 5 out of 5]

I loved loved loved the concept of this - wonderful exploration of the "real" food of London. Of course, some essays were better than others (I particularly enjoyed those that veered into auto-fiction) but the editorial voice was always present and always great. I also love that there is a sort of live update happening on Jonathan's instagram.

[Sara · Rating 5 out of 5]

Amazing historical and sociological record of the London food scene that doesn’t get enough props

[Emily Sherwin · Rating 4 out of 5]

A generally great collection of essays that both interrogate and celebrate culture and eating in London. I could have done without the self-pitying, faux altruistic essays from Rebecca May Johnson and Ruby Tandoh, that just reinforced the privilege and tone of a Vittles subscription.

[Sasha Mottaghi · Rating 5 out of 5]

A true celebration, with plenty of fascinating reflection, on London and its relationship with food, whether that’s via a small local cafe, grand restaurants, community centres, or allotments. A wonderful book about people and the food they enjoy.

[hannah schuller · Rating 5 out of 5]

objectively great

[Arun · Rating 4 out of 5]

As a Londoner who sometimes feels like I've lost touch with my home city a bit, this helped me reconnect. Part nostalgia, part excitement about the present, with a strong element of education about some of the wonderful communities and movements around and adjacent to food and food culture. Some really beautiful essays about personal experiences too.