Colorado 14er Disasters:: Victims of the Game

by Mark Scott-Nash

Fourteener mania, the phenomena characterized by a seemingly obsessive drive to summit the list of all fifty-four of Colorado s 14,000-foot peaks, is an older tradition than many may realize. Along with intensely positive experiences in climbing is the possibility of the opposite extreme to become stranded, severely injured, or even killed, in disturbingly easy ways. This book explores this dark side of climbing. When an accident happens on a 14er, the victim is far from help and in an environment where rescue is difficult at best. The book is full of hair-raising stories of these disasters and resue attempts and also aids in avoiding such disasters.

Genres: Nonfiction, Mountaineering, Climbing, Outdoors, History

176 pages, Paperback

First published May 15, 2009

Reviews

[Wendy · Rating 5 out of 5]

It was super interesting to read about Search and Rescue missions in the Colorado mountains (made even more interesting as I have climbed all of the peaks mentioned in this book). I never thought about how the most dangerous 14ers are located in remote areas where SAR teams are pulled together from small mountain towns (vs. Rocky Mountain Rescue which draws from the entire Front Range). I continue to be extremely grateful for my years spent taking mountaineering classes and then teaching with the Colorado Mountain Club. It makes me shudder to know how many people climb high peaks these days with zero training / mountaineering knowledge. The author (who I know from my days in the CMC) did a great job with this book!

[Amy Blair · Rating 4 out of 5]

Lots of things to think about as I plan my next fourteener!

[Suzanne · Rating 3 out of 5]

Read while hiking in CO - perfect for that!

[Aaiza · Rating 5 out of 5]

Attention grabbing

I read it faster than most books; couldn’t put it down once I began. It’s very educational, specially if you like to hike in Colorado.

[Julia · Rating 3 out of 5]

Non-fiction adventure—particularly disasters—are inherently gripping. No doubt, this book is an entertaining page-turner. Unfortunately, this one feels disjointed and disorganized, making for a clunky read. (Like this review.)

[Mike Courson · Rating 4 out of 5]

Book 25 of 2021
Here I've lived in Kansas all my life and had no real interest in mountains. I've been doing a lot of reading and watching about climbing and it still seemed too impossible to arouse interest. Come to find out...all these 14ers are right next door, many of which are just decent hikes to the top.

Got my intro with Mark Obmascik's book about climbing all 54 14ers in Colorado. Then some more shopping and this one popped up on the maybe list. Woah. Lee Whittlesey's "Death in Yellowstone" and the other guys' "Over the Edge: Death in Grand Canyon" are comprehensive books about deaths in nature. Dry as they can be at times, they are the gold standard of researching death events. Frankly that's what I was hoping for here.

Right away I was a little disappointed. I didn't do my research and the book is a little thin and reeks of a collegiate printing press. Not that those are bad...they often feature excellent research on specific topics...but I wanted a little more heft. Turns out it's printed by Colorado Mountain Club. Kudos to Mr. Scott-Nash for getting this book out there and selling copies!

I've read reviews about poor writing and such. Eh. I purchased the second edition so no doubt some mistakes were cleaned up. There are a few left, a few places difficult to navigate, etc. But does Mr. Scott-Nash have credibility on the mountains? I submit that he does.

This book serves more as a few cautionary tales than an encyclopedia of the many deaths on the mountains. While I was ready for that kind of reading, I'm pretty content with this. It's a page turner from the start with some interesting higher-profile cases and some good information about hiking the Colorado mountains.

So I didn't get the book I wanted but I'm actually pretty jealous of this one. It's a very niche target audience but I suspect it's done well in that niche. One could be a book snob and put it down for this or that but am I reading literature or am I reading about people dying on mountains? Mission accomplished in relating basic information about some deaths and some safety on the mountains. Now on to some other 14er books in preparation for my first climbs hopefully late this summer!

[Eron · Rating 4 out of 5]

For a while, I think I avoided learning about mountaineering accidents on the mountains I love, as bad juju would slither off the pages. After reading this, I feel the opposite. The case studies are analyzed with diligence, and I found myself recounting small errors in my past that reminded me of the stories on the pages. I am a convert; I want to learn everything I can about similar incidents. I'm glad Mark wrote this book. Not many people have the unique insight he does.

I wish there were more stories; only a few accidents are analyzed in detail, and I flew through the book. I also found myself cringing at the cynicism with which Mark spoke about the deceased. His points would still have been clear without excessive tonal guidance, so the tone comes off as snarky at times.

A very good read for anyone who even considers climbing above treeline.

[Steven Bragg · Rating 4 out of 5]

There is solid material in this book, which should make any climber think twice before attempting a 14er. I was president of the Colorado Mountain Club for two years, including during the Maroon Bells accident described in this book. The 14ers can be deceptively easy on a good day, and can lull you into a false sense of confidence. Believe me, they are not like that on a bad day! I have climbed about 500 peaks in Colorado, and have a healthy respect for these mountains.

One piece of advice not emphasized in the book is the need to get started as early as possible. My standard approach has been to get started no later than 5 a.m., and be well off the mountain by the time the storms arrive.

[Julie Ann · Rating 3 out of 5]

The content of this book is easily worth four stars or more, but I had to knock my review down to three for the lackluster attempt at editing, including numerous spelling errors. Definitely recommend this read for anyone who spends time mountaineering, though, especially if that time is spent in the Colorado wilderness.

[Jake Gibbons · Rating 5 out of 5]

Gripping read with one of the core narratives receiving more attention in the last month with the discovery of Michele Vanek’s poles by an all female SAR team assembled on the basis of a spiritual message from the deceased that only a woman could find her. I’m eagerly awaiting the next edition as the search for Michele continues.

[North of Boston · Rating 2 out of 5]

Disappointing. A couple of the stories were well-considered, but left with the impression that writer was more interested in showing off his knowledge of the trails, rather than telling the stories of the missteps that led to the tragedies.

[Marianne · Rating 5 out of 5]

Just finished the 2nd edition of this book, updated and published in 2016. Thorough analysis of a broad array of cases in which one or more decisions by hikers and climbers led to the need for rescue. A great book for anyone who hikes in Colorado above timberline.

[Erin · Rating 4 out of 5]

Very informative and helpful read to know what not to do (and what could simply be unavoidable by nature of taking risks and being in the wilderness). Bolstering my hiking checklist now as a result of the scenarios read in this.

[Lky · Rating 5 out of 5]

Excellent book. Both from the perspective of hearing adventure stories that turned out not so well. But then Scott-Nash also offers a lot of lessons for preventing such things from happening if you wish to learn about such things.

[Spencer · Rating 5 out of 5]

Well documented stories of how anyone, even the experienced, can succumb to the challenges of 14ers. The appendix provides tactical avoidance methods, but the disasters speak for themselves. Be prepared and don’t take unnecessary risk.

[Edward · Rating 3 out of 5]

Decent read, I don't hike in Colorado, but you can learn from the hard lessons.

[Taylor Vashro · Rating 4 out of 5]

Surprisingly captivating stories of deadly mishaps on Colorado 14ers which was both educational and sobering. Would definitely recommend for anyone who enjoys climbing, hiking, or mountaineering.

[Micah DeHenau · Rating 3 out of 5]

Interesting book with some select stories on Colorado 14er incidents. A good reminder of basic safety protocols in the backcountry

[Lianna · Rating 3 out of 5]

Not the best book to read while packing to hike part of the CDT. Why did I do that.

[Valerie]

An excellent read for anyone looking for good and concrete reasons to plan responsibly for mountain trips. Plan safely, all!

[Barrett · Rating 4 out of 5]

An intense page turner. Knowing most of the areas that the accidents happened made it even more interesting for me.

[Matt · Rating 4 out of 5]

A lot of fun to read. A little bit scary, a little bit sad, a little bit inspiring. We all should have died so many times already.

[Emma Serna · Rating 5 out of 5]

Great info. Sad stories.

[Allison Delestowicz · Rating 5 out of 5]

Good read. I’ve climbed many 14ers during my time in Colorado.

[Andy Janes · Rating 4 out of 5]

Well written, gripping read. Good things to remember when playing in the mountains!

[Kevin · Rating 3 out of 5]

Fascinating stories. The order of the chapters is confusing as the author jumps back and forth in time for each tragedy.

[justsomeguy · Rating 5 out of 5]

Many take the 14ers and their routes for granted, myself included (on occasion). The stories serve as both warnings and elegies; if you plan to hike any of the mountains encountered, there is even enough detail for you to visualize what happened, and how you might avoid it in your adventures.

When you start the day, everything is set according to plan. "Now why would any person mistakenly walk down this obviously incorrect trail, especially on an out-and-back" someone could be naive enough to ponder as they pass by another trail marker, just miles to their intended summit. When the weather, or mood, changes, suddenly those wrong turns look right, or perhaps like a shortcut.

One of the best skills to have while hiking, especially alpine summits, is the skill of turning around when all you want to do is reach your goal. Telling your stoked self that the summit will be there next Saturday or next season is tough after what is often many days of dreaming, scheming, and driving. Know your limits and listen to your instincts.

While planning and hiking, I often think of these stories and the people that have been lost.

[bryan · Rating 3 out of 5]

Not the best written book and it's a bit poorly organized (one story is the the first quarter of the book; other stories one or two pages) and only hits on a few tragedies, leaving out many, many more that have happened over the years... but given how few books there are about people dying or disappearing on 14ers this is a worthwhile read about what can go wrong for hikers/climbers on these mountains.

[Eric · Rating 3 out of 5]

Three parts to this book, each detailing how even prepared and experienced climbers can end up in horrible situations. Scott-Nash seems to be as concerned with preventing future disasters as chronicling those in the past. I know the third story; Scott-Nash only reported two minor details incorrectly, and it was interesting to read his analysis--one with which I ultimately agree. A quick read; no complaints.

[Sarah · Rating 4 out of 5]

This was an interesting and informative, albeit scary, look at what can happen when poor decisions are made while climbing 14ers. I enjoyed this book mainly because it helped me realize that disasters such as those described are often a result of a chain of decisions, not a single "bad move"...so if several things seem to go "wrong" along the way, it might be a good day to abort a climb and come back to try it another day.