In imagining the Polynesians and their adventurous leaps across the Pacific, I consider the more recent voyages that have brought our own ship back and forth across these same waters—a modern steel vessel a hundred times more robust, connected by satellite and surrounded by a sense of the known. My scientist friends tell me of all the ways that the ocean and climate have changed since people first put to sea, but for a sailor on an open deck these transformations remain largely an abstraction. The flashing cursor and keyboard aside, it is hard here not to feel some connection with all the others who have crossed this ocean previously. Pacific voyagers, captains of discovery, the traders and mapmakers—surely all marveled at the same endless show of light and clouds. No doubt many were at times as cold and wet as us, and just as baffled by the unexpected.
In the cool of evening people gather on deck to watch stars emerge from the twilight—at first single pinpricks and then a swarm, uncountable. The sky tilts steadily night by night, revealing new parts of itself as our changed latitude tips old constellations below the horizon and hoists new ones aloft. Soon there is a thrilling first glimpse of the Southern Cross, its iconic quadrangle pointing toward the antipodes, just below the shadow of Corvus the crow. The North Star sinks lower, steadfast pivot of the heavens until a day at the equator when it will dip to the horizon and vanish. In the northern hemisphere, Polaris will always make an angle with the horizon equal to your latitude—a cosmic geometry first revealed to me in magic diagrams by an astronomy professor, rocketing across the blackboard in a cloud of chalk dust.
Following sea. Diminishing sea. Long Pacific swell. A long reach of land. Seagoing. Seafaring. Wind fetch and wave swell. Intertropical convergence zone. Windward and astern. Empty longitudes. Headlands. Dead reckoning. Leeward. Archipelagoes. Upwelling. Gyre. Oleaginous. Lee. Nautical miles. Trade winds. Leftover sea. The Magellanic Clouds. Bathymetry. Orographic lifting. Mistral, sirocco, poniente, llevande, bora. Lagoon. Fringing reefs.
It doesn’t take much to set me off daydreaming of the ocean, just a few of these words sprinkled in does it; add capricious, exulting, marvelled, baffled, wind as breath, and really poetic descriptions of phenomena that does not sink to cheesiness or inauthenticity, and I am breathless from the prose of this book as well as its depth and science, and even adventure of the high seas, which is a term he does not use, which surprised me. The view of our planet in this way, crossing it, the water, the weather, it is just a poem to me that is full of wonder.
Sea People, Reading the Glass, and Why We Swim were the 3 books I focused on for my beach vacation along the Gulf of Mexico, and each enriched the experience phenomenally. The Gulf is not the Pacific, and while each book may have made some mention of the part of the ocean I was exploring, it did not mention the shoreline of wonder I was on, and for me, both the land and the water are my sacred places, but I know the land better so these books widened my frame in a delicious way. I added indigenous, true names as much as I could as an important exercise for us all.
Occasionally I’ll sit to leeward of my own charthouse and look out at nothing, vertiginous moments in which it’s possible to imagine that the water is rolling by like a carpet and we are standing still. In these instants it is sometimes possible to gather the whole ship in my mind’s eye, all the moving parts and human routines but also our long line of travel, the interval during which the vessel is its own world entirely—a capsule in free fall, unaffected by the gravity of either origin or destination.
It’s hot and sunny now on deck at midday, enough to drive you into the shade if you’ve got a choice. The trade winds have returned, steady from just south of east, and the ship slides along as if on a rail. There are dry starry nights, the evenings electric, with horizons the color of watermelon rind. Orion, recumbent, loops overhead in a great arc. We cross the equator near 132 degrees west longitude, just after midnight on December 17. North along our meridian the next bit of land is British Columbia. South is Antarctica. The latitude display on our GPS reads, briefly and thrillingly, 00° 00.000’.
Since ocean currents are the main mover of heat between latitudes, the location of land will have a lot to do with where it’s warm and where it isn’t. Today’s arrangement—with a closed Arctic Ocean and large north-south continental formations—is quite limiting to heat exchange. The start of the geologically recent Quaternary glaciation coincided with the closing of the Panamanian isthmus, which effectively shut the door on the movement of warm water between Atlantic and Pacific. Much longer ago, the warm, ice-free Mesozoic era began with most of Earth’s terrain packed into a single giant land mass called Pangaea—an arrangement that left the remaining oceans free to circulate heat uniformly. Pangaea itself was warm and arid, particularly in the vast hinterlands that were insulated from oceanic moisture—think Australia. Things changed at the beginning of the Jurassic period, as the supercontinent fractured and new coastlines gave inroads to moist ocean air. These dinosaur boom years were still warm, but much rainier as wet maritime air found new paths ashore.
We set sail again on what proves to be a long soggy loop through the western Te Mau Fenua Matai or Tōtaiete mā in Tahitian (Society Islands)—Mooréa, Huahine, Bora Bora with its photogenic spires of stone, and Raiatea, thought by some to be the point of departure for the final great round of Polynesian sailings a thousand years ago. Through it all the rain chases us in waves, returning like clockwork after each deceptive interval of sunshine. The wind is fitful, gusty with the passage of squalls, and then gone altogether, the sails hanging wet and slack. There is a steady swell rolling in from storms far away, its long relief visible on the smooth water as floating seabirds rise and disappear in the alternating peaks and valleys. The soursops from the market grow ripe and are devoured, spiny green globes with hard black seeds and a filling like vanilla custard. Recovery to normal fruit-eating is not possible once you have had such things.
Atolls form as the basaltic cones of ancient volcanoes slump back into the sea and fringing coral reefs race to keep up with their sinking foundations. They are the quintessence of dynamic equilibrium, a standing balance made from moving parts. If the coral is healthy, it may add material fast enough to match pace with the retreating geology, until all that remains to see is a fragmented annulus of breaking waves and motu—vegetated sand islets—looped around a central lagoon. At the midpoint of this process the parent mountain may survive as a dramatic pedestal surrounded by its outlying reef, thus opening a window on the relative age of different islands in a chain. Consider Tahiti, which is the youngest of Te Mau Fenua Matai or Tōtaiete mā in Tahitian (Society Islands)—a mountainous mass thirty miles across and surrounded by only a narrow ribbon of lagoon. To the reef from shore is a swimmable distance, even for tourists.
Some indigenous methods of voyaging reverse the Western concept of motion, using instead a system in which the navigator departs in their canoe, watching land disappear astern until eventually—over a span of time that might involve hours, days, or weeks—another island appears ahead, pulling slowly into view to replace what has been left. Through the interim it is the sailor who inhabits the center of a fixed frame, one where the routines of the day—the ship’s chores, navigational tasks, and social interactions—form a fulcrum around which the rest of the world revolves. This is to me an affecting and not entirely unfamiliar notion.
These islands and the seventy or so other Tuamotus host about 15,000 inhabitants now, who in addition to some French speak their own discrete branch of the Polynesian language, Pa‘umotu. There are pearl farms, resorts, and local communities sustained by the traditional resources of reef and garden, all pressed between the lagoon’s green lens and the open ocean. I have yet to visit very many of these places, but in this aspect they recall to me the words of the author Mark Vanhoenacker—a pilot who writes elegantly of unwalked landscapes sensed instead by overflight. It is a notion he credits to the Alaskans, who may cross broad reaches of their trackless state from above, borne aloft in tiny planes to their own personal corners of the wilderness. I feel this way about the Tuamotus, which for now are like the rings of Saturn passing in the window of my spaceship—unexplored but captivating, if not entirely inviting in their presence.