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Calcutta Cookbook
The Calcutta Cookbook is more than a cookbook. It is a culinary chronicle of travellers and traders, many of whom whilt the city of Calcutta and its distinctive cuisines. For the first time, recipes from the Bay of Biscay to the China Sea and from Central Asia and Tibet to Sri Lanka, have been tasted, tried and collected in a golden treasury for the cook and the collector.
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First published March 1, 2003
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August 31, 2015
When I had picked up this book in the Kolkata Book Fair, I was struck by the title, and the way it described itself in the tag line: A treasury of recipes from pavement to palace.
As I read through the book, I realised why we Bengalis are such foodies, why do we have such fantastic restaurants that has stood the test of time, and how warmly we have welcomed everyone who has entered the Bengal soil, by amalgamating their food choices into ours, and that is why we have a Potoler Dolma or dorma from the British, and how Anglo Indians have such a plethora of dishes, how the Mulligatawny soup and the Kedigree came into being. How we have taken in the Moghlai food and the Chinese food. This book is a serious book lover's treat. A must go through. It is rich with history of food, and how the Calcutta cuisine has come through.
Confucius has said ,"There is no one who does not eat and drink. But there are few who can appreciate taste" and this is the essence of this book.
It has a plethora of recipes for serious food lovers and is a must in the library, I say.
As I read through the book, I realised why we Bengalis are such foodies, why do we have such fantastic restaurants that has stood the test of time, and how warmly we have welcomed everyone who has entered the Bengal soil, by amalgamating their food choices into ours, and that is why we have a Potoler Dolma or dorma from the British, and how Anglo Indians have such a plethora of dishes, how the Mulligatawny soup and the Kedigree came into being. How we have taken in the Moghlai food and the Chinese food. This book is a serious book lover's treat. A must go through. It is rich with history of food, and how the Calcutta cuisine has come through.
Confucius has said ,"There is no one who does not eat and drink. But there are few who can appreciate taste" and this is the essence of this book.
It has a plethora of recipes for serious food lovers and is a must in the library, I say.
September 26, 2025
#Binge Reviewing my previous Reads # of Calcutta
This one is more than a conventional cookbook; it is a vivid exploration of Kolkata’s culinary history, a narrative that binds food, culture, and the city’s social evolution into a seamless tapestry. The work transcends the mere act of listing recipes; it situates each dish within the broader cultural, historical, and communal frameworks that have shaped the city. Kolkata, formerly Calcutta, is a city built on layers of migration, trade, colonialism, and cosmopolitan exchange, and its food culture reflects the very essence of this complex urban identity. Through this book, the authors succeed in presenting Kolkata not simply as a geographic location, but as a living, breathing entity whose soul can, in part, be understood through the flavors, techniques, and culinary rituals that have evolved over centuries.
The narrative opens with a historical lens, situating the culinary journey of the city within its origins as a colonial hub. The arrival of Job Charnock in 1690 and the subsequent establishment of Calcutta by the British East India Company marked the beginning of a city that would become a melting pot of cultures, each contributing uniquely to its gastronomic landscape. From the outset, the authors emphasize that Kolkata’s food culture is inseparable from its history. The streets, markets, and kitchens of the city have always been arenas where cultural exchange, adaptation, and innovation occur. By framing the cookbook within this historical context, the authors elevate the work from a simple collection of recipes to a cultural chronicle, showing that the evolution of food in Kolkata parallels the evolution of the city itself. Colonial influences, migration, trade, and the blending of local and foreign culinary practices are traced alongside the recipes, giving readers a sense of how each dish carries a story and a lineage.
One of the book’s greatest strengths is its ability to combine authenticity with narrative richness. The recipes are not abstracted or modernized for convenience alone; they are presented with attention to historical fidelity, often tracing their origins through family kitchens and community practices. For instance, the Bengali Chingri Maacher Malai Curry is not merely presented as a beloved dish but contextualized within the socio-cultural fabric of Bengali households, highlighting its ritualistic and celebratory roles. Similarly, the Kolkata Biryani is introduced not just as a recipe but as a symbol of Mughal influence adapted to local tastes, showing how imperial legacies and regional creativity intersect to produce dishes that are uniquely Kolkatan. These historical and cultural insights are interspersed with anecdotes, contextual notes, and explanations of variations, helping readers understand the nuances of preparation, consumption, and the social significance of each dish. The cookbook thus functions on multiple levels: as a practical guide, a historical record, and a cultural narrative.
The authors dedicate considerable attention to the city’s diverse communities and their impact on Kolkata’s food culture. The Jewish, Armenian, Chinese, and Anglo-Indian diasporas, along with regional migrants from Odisha, Bihar, and East Bengal, are explored in terms of their culinary contributions. Jewish bakeries such as Nahoum’s, for instance, are presented as cultural landmarks, their plum cakes, breads, and biscuits embodying both culinary and social histories.
The Armenian influence, while less widely known, is traced through pilafs and baked goods, showing how a small but vibrant community left a lasting mark on the city’s palate. Chinese immigrants introduced stir-frying, noodles, and soy-based sauces, which have now been assimilated into local street food and restaurant culture, producing iconic hybrid dishes that continue to delight Kolkatans. The authors provide both recipes and historical context for these contributions, illustrating the permeability of culinary boundaries and the processes of adaptation and syncretism that define Kolkata’s food heritage.
Kolkata’s street food, a central pillar of the city’s identity, is given meticulous attention. The authors present puchkas, jhalmuri, kathi rolls, egg chops, and other iconic snacks not merely as consumables but as markers of urban life, public culture, and social interaction. Street food is analyzed as a form of cultural expression, reflecting the improvisational skills of vendors, the accessibility of ingredients, and the shared tastes of diverse urban populations. By including these everyday foods alongside recipes from elite households and traditional community kitchens, the book captures the egalitarian and democratic dimensions of Kolkata’s food culture.
The streets and alleys, markets and ghats, become spaces of culinary negotiation, where local tastes, regional ingredients, and global influences coalesce. Through detailed instructions, historical notes, and evocative storytelling, the cookbook demonstrates that these humble dishes are as significant as more elaborate preparations in understanding the city’s gastronomic identity.
The book also explores the performative and symbolic dimensions of food in Kolkata. Festivals, religious rituals, family gatherings, and social celebrations are all intimately linked with culinary practices, and the authors take care to situate recipes within these frameworks. Sweets, savories, and festive preparations are contextualized not merely in terms of taste but in terms of social meaning, ritual significance, and intergenerational transmission. Durga Puja, for instance, is presented as a multi-sensory cultural event in which culinary preparation is inseparable from artistic and religious expression. Similarly, wedding feasts, communal celebrations, and neighbourhood gatherings illustrate the ways in which food mediates social bonds, communicates identity, and maintains cultural continuity. By highlighting these performative aspects, the authors underscore the idea that food in Kolkata is never merely functional; it is a form of social language, a medium for storytelling, and a repository of collective memory.
The narrative skillfully weaves in the role of gender and domestic spaces in shaping Kolkata’s culinary traditions. The home kitchen, historically presided over by women, emerges as a site of cultural transmission, innovation, and negotiation. Recipes often carry familial or community-specific variations, reflecting localized tastes, available ingredients, and inherited knowledge. The cookbook foregrounds these domestic dimensions, showing how household practices contribute to the city’s wider culinary landscape. Through personal stories, recollections, and interviews, the authors provide insight into the ways women have historically mediated culinary knowledge, preserving traditions while simultaneously adapting to changing social and economic circumstances. The result is a multidimensional view of food that acknowledges both public and private spheres as integral to the city’s gastronomic identity.
Another notable feature of the book is its attention to technique, ingredient sourcing, and preparation nuances. While historical and cultural context forms the backbone of the narrative, practical guidance ensures that readers can faithfully recreate dishes. Ingredients are explained in terms of seasonal availability, regional specificity, and substitution options, reflecting both the realities of contemporary kitchens and the preservation of authenticity. Cooking techniques, from slow braising to stir-frying and steaming, are described with clarity, enabling readers to appreciate not just the flavour outcomes but the skill and labour embedded in each preparation. The authors’ insistence on accuracy and respect for traditional methods conveys a deep reverence for culinary heritage, encouraging readers to engage with these practices as living traditions rather than static artifacts.
Visual storytelling is another strength of the book. Photographs accompanying recipes not only illustrate the final dishes but also capture textures, colours, and presentation styles, enhancing the reader’s sensory engagement. The visual dimension complements the textual narrative, creating a holistic reading and cooking experience that evokes both the aesthetic and practical dimensions of Kolkata’s cuisine. From the vibrant reds of puchkas to the creamy yellows of malai curries, the images convey the city’s rich palette, reinforcing the notion that food is simultaneously a cultural, aesthetic, and social phenomenon. The inclusion of visual cues also serves as a pedagogical tool, helping readers interpret techniques, presentations, and ingredient interactions with greater precision.
The cookbook further distinguishes itself by embracing the fluidity and hybridity inherent in Kolkata’s culinary culture. The authors demonstrate how recipes evolve, adapt, and absorb influences from successive waves of migration, trade, and cultural exchange. Anglo-Indian dishes, European pastries, Chinese stir-fries, and Mughal-inspired gravies are shown to have been reinterpreted within local contexts, producing hybrid cuisines that are simultaneously familiar and innovative. In doing so, the book emphasizes that culinary history is never static; it is a continuous dialogue between past and present, local and global, tradition and invention. Readers gain an understanding of how taste is socially constructed, historically contingent, and perpetually in flux.
Equally important is the authors’ attention to Kolkata’s socio-economic diversity. Recipes span the spectrum from elaborate, time-intensive preparations suited to affluent households to quick, accessible dishes reflecting the resourcefulness of working-class communities. This inclusivity reinforces the democratic and participatory dimensions of the city’s culinary culture, showing that every social stratum has contributed to the evolution of its food identity. The cookbook, in effect, becomes a social document, preserving and presenting recipes as living evidence of community histories, urban negotiations, and shared tastes. The intersection of class, tradition, and innovation is thus central to the narrative, highlighting the intricate web of factors that define Kolkata’s cuisine.
The historical commentary embedded throughout the book provides readers with a rich understanding of the city’s transformation. By tracing the arrival of different communities, the influence of colonial powers, and the circulation of ingredients and techniques, the authors reveal how Kolkata became a cosmopolitan city where culinary exchange mirrors broader social processes. Recipes are linked to migration patterns, trade routes, and colonial interventions, illustrating the city’s interconnectedness with global and regional histories. In this way, the cookbook functions as both a practical guide and a historiographical text, showing that the study of food is inseparable from the study of society, economy, and culture.
In conclusion, *Calcutta Cookbook* is a remarkable achievement in its synthesis of history, culture, and practical instruction. It offers readers more than a collection of recipes; it presents a nuanced portrait of Kolkata, capturing the city’s diversity, creativity, and resilience through the medium of food. The authors combine scholarship, narrative skill, and culinary expertise to produce a work that is at once educational, engaging, and aesthetically satisfying.
By situating recipes within their historical, social, and cultural contexts, the book provides readers with a deeper appreciation of the city’s gastronomic heritage, revealing how food serves as both a marker of identity and a vehicle for memory and tradition. For anyone interested in the interplay of culture, history, and cuisine, or for those seeking to understand Kolkata’s unique character through its flavours, *Calcutta Cookbook* is an invaluable resource that illuminates the past, enriches the present, and inspires culinary exploration for the future. Its comprehensive scope, attention to authenticity, and celebration of Kolkata’s rich culinary pluralism make it a definitive guide to the city’s food heritage, offering readers a portal into a world where history, culture, and taste converge in the most delicious and meaningful ways.
Give it a go.
This one is more than a conventional cookbook; it is a vivid exploration of Kolkata’s culinary history, a narrative that binds food, culture, and the city’s social evolution into a seamless tapestry. The work transcends the mere act of listing recipes; it situates each dish within the broader cultural, historical, and communal frameworks that have shaped the city. Kolkata, formerly Calcutta, is a city built on layers of migration, trade, colonialism, and cosmopolitan exchange, and its food culture reflects the very essence of this complex urban identity. Through this book, the authors succeed in presenting Kolkata not simply as a geographic location, but as a living, breathing entity whose soul can, in part, be understood through the flavors, techniques, and culinary rituals that have evolved over centuries.
The narrative opens with a historical lens, situating the culinary journey of the city within its origins as a colonial hub. The arrival of Job Charnock in 1690 and the subsequent establishment of Calcutta by the British East India Company marked the beginning of a city that would become a melting pot of cultures, each contributing uniquely to its gastronomic landscape. From the outset, the authors emphasize that Kolkata’s food culture is inseparable from its history. The streets, markets, and kitchens of the city have always been arenas where cultural exchange, adaptation, and innovation occur. By framing the cookbook within this historical context, the authors elevate the work from a simple collection of recipes to a cultural chronicle, showing that the evolution of food in Kolkata parallels the evolution of the city itself. Colonial influences, migration, trade, and the blending of local and foreign culinary practices are traced alongside the recipes, giving readers a sense of how each dish carries a story and a lineage.
One of the book’s greatest strengths is its ability to combine authenticity with narrative richness. The recipes are not abstracted or modernized for convenience alone; they are presented with attention to historical fidelity, often tracing their origins through family kitchens and community practices. For instance, the Bengali Chingri Maacher Malai Curry is not merely presented as a beloved dish but contextualized within the socio-cultural fabric of Bengali households, highlighting its ritualistic and celebratory roles. Similarly, the Kolkata Biryani is introduced not just as a recipe but as a symbol of Mughal influence adapted to local tastes, showing how imperial legacies and regional creativity intersect to produce dishes that are uniquely Kolkatan. These historical and cultural insights are interspersed with anecdotes, contextual notes, and explanations of variations, helping readers understand the nuances of preparation, consumption, and the social significance of each dish. The cookbook thus functions on multiple levels: as a practical guide, a historical record, and a cultural narrative.
The authors dedicate considerable attention to the city’s diverse communities and their impact on Kolkata’s food culture. The Jewish, Armenian, Chinese, and Anglo-Indian diasporas, along with regional migrants from Odisha, Bihar, and East Bengal, are explored in terms of their culinary contributions. Jewish bakeries such as Nahoum’s, for instance, are presented as cultural landmarks, their plum cakes, breads, and biscuits embodying both culinary and social histories.
The Armenian influence, while less widely known, is traced through pilafs and baked goods, showing how a small but vibrant community left a lasting mark on the city’s palate. Chinese immigrants introduced stir-frying, noodles, and soy-based sauces, which have now been assimilated into local street food and restaurant culture, producing iconic hybrid dishes that continue to delight Kolkatans. The authors provide both recipes and historical context for these contributions, illustrating the permeability of culinary boundaries and the processes of adaptation and syncretism that define Kolkata’s food heritage.
Kolkata’s street food, a central pillar of the city’s identity, is given meticulous attention. The authors present puchkas, jhalmuri, kathi rolls, egg chops, and other iconic snacks not merely as consumables but as markers of urban life, public culture, and social interaction. Street food is analyzed as a form of cultural expression, reflecting the improvisational skills of vendors, the accessibility of ingredients, and the shared tastes of diverse urban populations. By including these everyday foods alongside recipes from elite households and traditional community kitchens, the book captures the egalitarian and democratic dimensions of Kolkata’s food culture.
The streets and alleys, markets and ghats, become spaces of culinary negotiation, where local tastes, regional ingredients, and global influences coalesce. Through detailed instructions, historical notes, and evocative storytelling, the cookbook demonstrates that these humble dishes are as significant as more elaborate preparations in understanding the city’s gastronomic identity.
The book also explores the performative and symbolic dimensions of food in Kolkata. Festivals, religious rituals, family gatherings, and social celebrations are all intimately linked with culinary practices, and the authors take care to situate recipes within these frameworks. Sweets, savories, and festive preparations are contextualized not merely in terms of taste but in terms of social meaning, ritual significance, and intergenerational transmission. Durga Puja, for instance, is presented as a multi-sensory cultural event in which culinary preparation is inseparable from artistic and religious expression. Similarly, wedding feasts, communal celebrations, and neighbourhood gatherings illustrate the ways in which food mediates social bonds, communicates identity, and maintains cultural continuity. By highlighting these performative aspects, the authors underscore the idea that food in Kolkata is never merely functional; it is a form of social language, a medium for storytelling, and a repository of collective memory.
The narrative skillfully weaves in the role of gender and domestic spaces in shaping Kolkata’s culinary traditions. The home kitchen, historically presided over by women, emerges as a site of cultural transmission, innovation, and negotiation. Recipes often carry familial or community-specific variations, reflecting localized tastes, available ingredients, and inherited knowledge. The cookbook foregrounds these domestic dimensions, showing how household practices contribute to the city’s wider culinary landscape. Through personal stories, recollections, and interviews, the authors provide insight into the ways women have historically mediated culinary knowledge, preserving traditions while simultaneously adapting to changing social and economic circumstances. The result is a multidimensional view of food that acknowledges both public and private spheres as integral to the city’s gastronomic identity.
Another notable feature of the book is its attention to technique, ingredient sourcing, and preparation nuances. While historical and cultural context forms the backbone of the narrative, practical guidance ensures that readers can faithfully recreate dishes. Ingredients are explained in terms of seasonal availability, regional specificity, and substitution options, reflecting both the realities of contemporary kitchens and the preservation of authenticity. Cooking techniques, from slow braising to stir-frying and steaming, are described with clarity, enabling readers to appreciate not just the flavour outcomes but the skill and labour embedded in each preparation. The authors’ insistence on accuracy and respect for traditional methods conveys a deep reverence for culinary heritage, encouraging readers to engage with these practices as living traditions rather than static artifacts.
Visual storytelling is another strength of the book. Photographs accompanying recipes not only illustrate the final dishes but also capture textures, colours, and presentation styles, enhancing the reader’s sensory engagement. The visual dimension complements the textual narrative, creating a holistic reading and cooking experience that evokes both the aesthetic and practical dimensions of Kolkata’s cuisine. From the vibrant reds of puchkas to the creamy yellows of malai curries, the images convey the city’s rich palette, reinforcing the notion that food is simultaneously a cultural, aesthetic, and social phenomenon. The inclusion of visual cues also serves as a pedagogical tool, helping readers interpret techniques, presentations, and ingredient interactions with greater precision.
The cookbook further distinguishes itself by embracing the fluidity and hybridity inherent in Kolkata’s culinary culture. The authors demonstrate how recipes evolve, adapt, and absorb influences from successive waves of migration, trade, and cultural exchange. Anglo-Indian dishes, European pastries, Chinese stir-fries, and Mughal-inspired gravies are shown to have been reinterpreted within local contexts, producing hybrid cuisines that are simultaneously familiar and innovative. In doing so, the book emphasizes that culinary history is never static; it is a continuous dialogue between past and present, local and global, tradition and invention. Readers gain an understanding of how taste is socially constructed, historically contingent, and perpetually in flux.
Equally important is the authors’ attention to Kolkata’s socio-economic diversity. Recipes span the spectrum from elaborate, time-intensive preparations suited to affluent households to quick, accessible dishes reflecting the resourcefulness of working-class communities. This inclusivity reinforces the democratic and participatory dimensions of the city’s culinary culture, showing that every social stratum has contributed to the evolution of its food identity. The cookbook, in effect, becomes a social document, preserving and presenting recipes as living evidence of community histories, urban negotiations, and shared tastes. The intersection of class, tradition, and innovation is thus central to the narrative, highlighting the intricate web of factors that define Kolkata’s cuisine.
The historical commentary embedded throughout the book provides readers with a rich understanding of the city’s transformation. By tracing the arrival of different communities, the influence of colonial powers, and the circulation of ingredients and techniques, the authors reveal how Kolkata became a cosmopolitan city where culinary exchange mirrors broader social processes. Recipes are linked to migration patterns, trade routes, and colonial interventions, illustrating the city’s interconnectedness with global and regional histories. In this way, the cookbook functions as both a practical guide and a historiographical text, showing that the study of food is inseparable from the study of society, economy, and culture.
In conclusion, *Calcutta Cookbook* is a remarkable achievement in its synthesis of history, culture, and practical instruction. It offers readers more than a collection of recipes; it presents a nuanced portrait of Kolkata, capturing the city’s diversity, creativity, and resilience through the medium of food. The authors combine scholarship, narrative skill, and culinary expertise to produce a work that is at once educational, engaging, and aesthetically satisfying.
By situating recipes within their historical, social, and cultural contexts, the book provides readers with a deeper appreciation of the city’s gastronomic heritage, revealing how food serves as both a marker of identity and a vehicle for memory and tradition. For anyone interested in the interplay of culture, history, and cuisine, or for those seeking to understand Kolkata’s unique character through its flavours, *Calcutta Cookbook* is an invaluable resource that illuminates the past, enriches the present, and inspires culinary exploration for the future. Its comprehensive scope, attention to authenticity, and celebration of Kolkata’s rich culinary pluralism make it a definitive guide to the city’s food heritage, offering readers a portal into a world where history, culture, and taste converge in the most delicious and meaningful ways.
Give it a go.
August 27, 2018
I loved this book
I loved its unique style of delving in the history first and then giving recipe
Didn’t read any recipe but loved adored the history of bygone India....
Kudos to the authors for their exhaustive research...and simple presentation. Applaud!!
I loved its unique style of delving in the history first and then giving recipe
Didn’t read any recipe but loved adored the history of bygone India....
Kudos to the authors for their exhaustive research...and simple presentation. Applaud!!
July 22, 2018
Beautifully written and even more beautifully researched. Gives more than a peek into the cosmopolitan and also the joined family kitchens of Calcutta. It was a pleasure reading about the histories of the recipes that we take for granted on trips back to grandparents’/parents’ house. The only (small) issue that the author also points out in the introduction is the flow of the book. Sometimes the flow seems like an unfinished thought but in the end (eagle’s we view), it makes sense.
July 11, 2012
An interesting book with stories, recipes and cultural delicacies. A culinary guide to the Calcutta soul and much more.
August 10, 2024
Interesting!
Displaying 1 - 6 of 6 reviews