For a long time, at least since I read 'Rebel Sultans' by Manu S. Pillai, I have wanted to read a book that explores at least one of the Southern dynasties in greater detail. I picked up 'Ponniyin Selvan' by Kalki, expecting it to shed some light on the Chola dynasty, but it turned out to be historical fiction, more focused on courtroom intrigue and the fantastic, yielding very little historical knowledge along the way. Even 'The Golden Road' by William Dalrymple, which touches upon the Pallavas and Cholas, focuses more on their impact on maritime trade between India and the East. So it was with great delight that I picked up 'Rajaraja Chola' by Kamini Dandapani from the library—and it certainly delivered on the promise of depth about the Chola reign.
Rajaraja Chola was one of the greatest rulers this country has ever produced, with grand ambitions, ruthless execution skills, and a sense of his own grandeur in the larger scheme of things. At one point, the Cholas ruled almost the entire South of India, stretching north to Orissa and West Bengal, encompassing major parts of Sri Lanka, and exerting a large influence (through both soft and hard power) over Southeast Asian countries like Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, and Cambodia. While the Cholas were focused on expanding their reach and influence, they were also mindful of the legacy they would leave behind. Believing their dynasty had been blessed by none other than Lord Shiva, Rajaraja Chola, followed by his son Rajendra Chola, commissioned two of the most magnificent temples this country has ever seen—the Brihadeeshwara Temple in Thanjavur and the Gangaikondacholapuram Temple in a town of the same name, among many other temples that dot the landscape of their reign.
Even more fascinating are the thousands of stone inscriptions that adorn the walls of these temples, as well as base mouldings, trellis windows, sculptures, and copper plates (including the Anbil, Leiden, Thiruvalangadu, and Kanyakumari grants). These inscriptions cover a wide range of topics: they detail the genealogy of the Cholas, from mythical to protohistoric to the current lineage; they describe which ruler commissioned the temples, who donated during their construction and operation, how many people were employed by the temples, and what salaries they drew based on their work; they recount the wars won by the rulers; and interestingly, when any other dynasty—like the Chalukyas or Pandyas—conquered a Chola region, they added to the temple inscriptions in the territories they won, mentioning their own legacy, and vice versa.
In a way, these inscriptions provide us with a written history of those times—quite detailed, carved on stone and copper, and deciphered only about 150 years ago. When I was reading Ponniyin Selvan, I was struck by how much the author seemed to know about the time of Rajaraja Chola’s rule, especially since we know so little about another great ruler from the North, Prithviraj Chauhan, who came much later. Now I understand that there are very few inscriptions from his reign and none by him directly. What we know about this great ruler comes primarily from epic poems like Prithviraj Raso or Muslim accounts. Additionally, it is possible that not many temples survive in North India, as they bore the brunt of Muslim invasions to a much greater extent than the southern parts of the country. This makes one wonder: if we look 1,000 years ahead, what will survive from our day and age? I asked this question to ChatGPT, and it gave me a comprehensive answer, with the following conclusion:
“A thousand years from now, the blend of ancient traditions, colonial heritage, and modern technological advancements would create a multi-layered archive of India in the 2000-2025 period. This combination of digital and physical preservation—ranging from stone inscriptions to digital records—would offer future historians a complex and varied view of one of the most dynamic nations in the 21st century.”
A lot might survive from our times on this Earth. If you have a sense of history, you should certainly go for it and do something remarkable to be etched in the annals of modern history, forever remembered from this point onward.
This book covers much more—the famous bronze idols of these temples, the maritime trade during the Chola period, the Cholas' relationships with Sri Lanka, Southeast Asian countries, and China, the powerful women of the time, law and order, the Bhakti movement, and the Nayanmar saints. It also explores the interplay between various dynasties—the Cheras, Pandyas, Hoysalas, Chalukyas, Rashtrakutas—and the way the Cholas both dominated and were dominated by them at different times in history.
'Rajaraja Chola' is a fascinating read about a glorious chapter in Indian history. It's definitely worth your time!