Sacré Blues: An Unsentimental Journey Through Quebec

by Taras Grescoe

Winner of the 2000 Quebec Writers' Federation First Book Award and the Mavis Gallant Prize for Nonfiction

A hip, enlightening portrait of a place most Canadians find Quebec without the politics.

Why do three million Quebecers tune in the same absurd sitcom every week? How did they get the nickname "pepsis"? Why does Celine Dion put on a down-home accent when she returns to her home province?

For referendum-weary English Canadians, Quebec is an enigma wrapped in a yawn. Taras Grescoe treats the province as an exotic destination. He takes readers onto the shuffleboard courts of Florida, to a francophone country-and-western festival in rural Mauricie, to the café tables of expatriate Quebecers in Paris. He deconstructs a Montreal Canadiens hockey game, explores the stunning diversity of Quebec’s newspapers, and dismantles Bombardier snowmobiles. En route, he meets Mohawk Warriors, Yiddish-speaking French Canadians, and the UFO-obsessed followers of Raël.

Informed and incisive, Sacré Blues explores the heart of contemporary its love-hate relationship with France and the United States; the dance, theatre, and literary productions celebrated in Europe but little known here; its fears about distinctness on an increasingly uniform continent. Along the way we meet such Quebec residents as the playwright Michel Tremblay and the novelist Neil Bissoondath, Teleglobe CEO Charles Sirois and the arctic explorer Bernard Voyer, the foul-mouthed columnist Pierre Foglia and the esteemed philosopher Charles Taylor.

Sacré Blues serves up a spicy, irreverent, inside view of this unique and little-known part of North America. With side orders of poutine, maple syrup, and Vachon snack cakes. And scarcely a mention of Lucien Bouchard.


From the Hardcover edition.

Genres: Canada, Nonfiction, Travel, History, Cultural, Politics

328 pages, Paperback

First published January 1, 2000

About the author

Taras Grescoe was born in 1967. He writes essays, articles, and books. He is something of a non-fiction specialist.

His first book was Sacré Blues, a portrait of contemporary Quebec that won Canada's Edna Staebler Award for Non-Fiction, two Quebec Writers' Federation Awards, a National Magazine Award (for an excerpted chapter), and was short-listed for the Writers' Trust Award. It was published in 2000 by Macfarlane, Walter & Ross, and became a Canadian bestseller. Sacré Blues helped Taras fall in love with Quebec, and explained the origins of poutine to an eternally grateful country. The publisher let it go out of print, but used copies can be found starting at $89.23 on Amazon.

His second book, The End of Elsewhere: Travels Among the Tourists (2003), which was published by McClelland & Stewart, involved a gruelling nine-month journey by foot, rented Renault, India railway 2A sleeper, and túk-túk, from one End of the Earth (Finisterre in Galicia) to the other (Tianya Haijiao, the End of the Earth in Hainan, China). An exploration of the origins and consequences of mass tourism, The End of Elsewhere saw Taras walking from west to east along a thousand-year-old east-to-west pilgrimmage route, stuffing his belly on a cruise ship from Venice to Istanbul, and observing the antics of sex tourists in the flesh-pots of Thailand. It failed to win any prizes in Quebec, but was nominated for a national Writers' Trust Award, and was then published to great critical acclaim in England by Serpent's Tail. The New Yorker called it "A gloriously trivia-strewn history of tourism."

His third book, The Devil's Picnic: Around the World in Pursuit of Forbidden Fruit, was a real labor of love. Taras revived a post-adolescent interest in debauchery and (temporarily) turned it into a vocation, chewing coca leaves in Bolivia, scoring moonshine in Norway, and puffing on Cuban cigars in the smoke-easys in San Francisco. This one was published by Bloomsbury in New York, Macmillan in London, and HarperCollins in Toronto in 2005. The Picnic, critics seemed to agree, was a rollicking good read, with a serious subtext about the nanny state and the limits of individual liberty. It sold quite well, and was translated into German, French, Chinese, and Japanese, but didn't get nominated for anything. Apparently nobody wants to give writers prizes for having a really, really, good time (even with a serious subtext).

As for his fourth and latest book, Bottomfeeder, he really shouldn't have to tell you about it. You're soaking in it.

Taras is also a frequent contributor to the New York Times, the Independent, and National Geographic Traveler. He has written features for Saveur, Gourmet, Salon, Wired, the Guardian, the Globe and Mail, Maclean's, Men's Health, the Chicago Tribune Magazine, the International Herald Tribune, the Times of London, and Condé Nast Traveller. He has prowled nocturnally in the footsteps of Dalî and Buñuel in Toledo, Spain for National Geographic Traveler, eaten bugs for The Independent, and substituted for William Safire in the New York Times Magazine. His travel essays have been published in several anthologies.

He has twice been invited to appear at the Edinburgh Book Festival (where he learned to love brown sauce and vegetarian haggis), done the amazing Literary Journalism program at the Banff Centre (where he got the other writers ripped on authentic absinthe from the Val de Travers), and has led seminars on travel and food writing from the depths of Westmount to the heights of Haida Gwaii.

He lives on an island called Montreal, which can be found at the confluence of the Ottawa and Saint Lawrence Rivers.

Reviews

[Ellen the Herbivore · Rating 3 out of 5]

He writes well. I really enjoyed my visits to Montreal and would love to go again. There are lots of interesting cultural tidbits in here. That said, I just can’t make it through the minutiae in here. For a while, I kept it at my bedside to read a few pages a night. But I have no particular reason to learn this amount of detail, much of which goes to personality quirks and opinions of people I have to stop and look up. Life is too short. It’s not you, it’s me.

[Emeline · Rating 3 out of 5]

I have read some of Grescoe's previous works, which is what drove me to this book, along with the fact that I was curious to see my native province through a stranger's eyes. The bottom line is: I'd like to see an updated version of this. You get the feel that the author isn't quite sure of his style yet, there are a lot of repetitions, and we switch from general facts to personal opinion very swiftly.
This book reads like a newcomer's enthusiastic first weeks, everything is new and shiny, Quebec is an endless source of culture, love, acceptance..I find it interesting that the author, trying to promote Québécois artists and thinkers, can't help but to refer or compare them to French artists, which in the contaxt of this book is telling. Of course the province's numerous flaws are outlined, I just didn't like the salesman-like tone of the book. There are some good points: the province's relationship to money, to religion, to the aboriginal populations and of course to its founding fathers and distant cousins, a lot still rings very true, but thirteen years have passed since the book's publication, and I'd love to know what a more mature Grescoe thinks now.

[kate]

I am sentimental and this is a pretty good book. I dated an almost militant separatist and the day we spent 1.5 hours (or it felt like it) wandering all over a grocery store in my province because he insisted there was absolutely no way a grocery store would not carry actual cheese curds for poutine, despite my entreaties that, actually, I had no idea what he was talking about, had never seen them and thought they only existed in nursery rhymes accompanied by whey - convinced me of the two solitudes.

So, I picked up this book to try to put moments like that into perspective. there were a lot of things in it I didn't know about life in quebec and these are amusing little chapters about several of them.

one downside is the whole moving day thing makes the idea of moving to quebec even more intimidating.

it's interesting to be in a country that has a totally divergent culture contained within, not necessarily happily. it's like a bad marriage, but neither spouse has a sexier/less stressful option. (canadians of any sort don't want to really marry america).

[Ruth · Rating 5 out of 5]

What a fun trip through Quebec! The author is an outsider (British Columbian, anglo, of eatern european heritage) but a sympathetic one. He sends up a LOT of Quebecois sacred cows (did you know that 40% of french-speaking Quebecois are of Irish descent?) and examines the peculiar Quebec style of vulgarity at hilarious length (bodily functions= ok, words relating to the church=naughty naughty!). In the end, this book is both critical and affectuonate---I think the strongest chapters are where he outlines the ways that Quebec differs from France AND from North America...A quebecois is not a Frenchman, but neither is he quite like an American either. If you've never been to Quebec, this will amuse, provoke, and make you want to go. If, like me, you've spent time in la belle province, you will ind yourself nodding and saying "It's SO true!!!" every other page....

[Autumn · Rating 3 out of 5]

Highly readable cultural history of Quebec. I wish I had read it before attending University there. It reveals lot about Quebecois culture this American anglophone has (sadly) never heard of.

[Glen · Rating 4 out of 5]

Dispensing with the obvious first, the book is somewhat dated (almost 20 years old), but much of the information is historical and contextual and therefore not so prone to an expiration date as some of the author's forays into contemporary cultural studies. For my part, I felt and feel lucky to have come across this book in a used bookstore in British Columbia as it provided what I wanted: a fairly recent single-volume survey of Quebec culture and history (both recent and not-so) that was written in English. Having only recently become aware of my own genealogical ties to the province and having never been there, I thought Grescoe's book was an engaging introduction to a region that is as little covered on the west coast of the U.S. as it is vast and complex. I found his style to be a nice mix of the erudite and familiar, and I identified with his rather sardonic and world-weary sense of humor (he can be VERY funny). I was pleased that the book closed with a chapter that included an interview with the philosopher Charles Taylor, a thinker whose work I first encountered when I was first introduced to philosophy in 1982 at UC-Irvine and read his lengthy tome on Hegel. His later big book, The Sources of the Self figured fairly prominently in my doctoral dissertation at Emory, and I was reminded again of one of my late undergraduate philosophy mentors, Jamil Nammour, who encouraged me repeatedly to apply to McGill, where Taylor taught. While I have no regrets over my decision to pursue graduate studies at my fine alma mater in the much warmer climes of Atlanta, reading Grescoe's book does force me down the road of what might have been, at least a little.

[Ellen · Rating 4 out of 5]

It took me forever to find a copy of this book, but I'm happy I eventually got to read it. Now almost 20 years old, it's probably a bit outdated, but it was really interesting to read about a culture that is relatively close to me, yet rarely written about (at least in America). The author is an engaging author (I loved his book Straphanger: Saving Our Cities and Ourselves from the Automobile) and he covers many aspects of Quebecois culture, giving the reader a solid introduction. I would really love to read updated information about the topics featured in this book, but even if much of the book is no longer super relevant, I think it is still a good introduction into the world and mindset of the people of French Canada.

[Carolyn Harris · Rating 4 out of 5]

An entertaining book about various aspects of Quebecois society and culture. The book was published in 2000 and it's interesting to see how the author views people at the time who are still well known today including Celine Dion and various Canadian authors and journalists. There is a lot of emphasis on travel and tourism whether the author is following Quebec tourists to Florida or French tourists to Quebec and gathering their impressions of their travels. The author is also fascinated by popular culture and devotes chapters to newspapers, television shows, sports and winter festivals. It would be interesting the read an updated edition with the author's thoughts on Quebec today.

[William Holz · Rating 4 out of 5]

As an American that has visited the province a few times, I found this sociological telling both engaging and informative. The only downside is that, with ot being so focused on the modern times it was written taking a past to explain the present viewpoint, the book is sadly a little outdated being written in the early 2000's. Overall a very enjoyable read!

[Jeannette · Rating 3 out of 5]

An excellent introduction to Quebec's history and present day living. A bit dated now, a bit of a slog but mostly entertaining and informative.

[Rosamund · Rating 3 out of 5]

First off, the info in this is not exactly fresh... it's from 2000. I found some chapters kind of boring, but I really enjoyed the chapters about Quebec's culture straddled between North America and Europe, language, First Nations, and winter. It was kind of Montreal-centric, you have to keep that in mind for most of the assumptions and observations the author makes. For example, I lived in the Bas-Saint-Laurent region where the question of English is not a question at all, but in huge diverse Montreal it's pretty pertinent.

This book would have been A LOT different had it been written post-9/11, not least because the conclusion implies that the Québécois are feeling closer to Americans than Anglo-Canadians. Overall, it cleared up a few peculiarities I had been wondering about while I was living there. I'm going to give it to my mother to read so that she understands some things I haven't been able to explain properly.

[Rose Gowen · Rating 3 out of 5]

I moved to Montreal four years ago, and one of the great pleasures of being here is involving myself in a long-term, casual research project: what is this place all about? what's its story?

So, I picked up this book when I saw it at the thrift store. The author happens to live down the street from me.

I don't think it's unfair to call it uneven-- at times, it strains to be funny; it can be cynical; and oddly mean (like, for most of that long chapter on Quebecois television, I thought the author was extolling its virtues, until, in the last paragraph, he turned around and said, no, actually it's shit).

But, it was Grescoe's first book. He was new to Quebec when he wrote it. There's lots of useful information in it, and obviously he loves the place. I'm glad I read it.

[Anna · Rating 2 out of 5]

A bit disappointing (I just loved his book about fish, Bottomfeeder). I think the intention is to point out the contradictions in Quebec society but I found it a bit negative. Apparently Grescoe loves Quebec. Yet, it seems like the people are racist (against indigenous people), illiterate, irreligious, pretending they aren't cold for six months of the year (?), make bad television, have odd newspapers, eat poutine (gross), and have a love-hate relationship with France (actually that part was really interesting). I don't really know what to make of it. Partly it is my own fault - I was expecting a travelogue and it certainly isn't that.

[Will Slade · Rating 3 out of 5]

Good read.

Kind of depressing though. I've entertained a small fantasy of living in Quebec for a couple years, but after reading this I don't think I ever will. It's too different. It's a deliberately non-literate society, with a higher tax burden, more confused and racist identity, and higher teen pregnancy. It's got it's appealing qualities, but it's more than just the language issue. I'd be a permanent outsider in a culture I don't find appealing. So I guess I'll be a tourist there, which is fine.

[Jennifer · Rating 3 out of 5]

The chapters on media are, in 2012, a bit dated. Other than that, though, I found the tale he told about Quebec past and present to be quite engaging. As a new Canadian, I think learning a few of the theories about how and why Quebec is the way it is belongs to my Canadian education. In particular, the chapter on language was illuminating. The reason my daughter is learning French French, instead of Quebec French is because there is no real standard for vocabulary and pronunciation in Québécois French. Other gems await you.

[Jamie · Rating 4 out of 5]

I learned more about the history of Québec through this book than I have by living here for most of my lifetime. I would have given the book 5 stars had it not been for that ambiguous last chapter; last sentence to be more precise: 'After three years of getting to know one of the most liveable, civilized, and intriguing parts of North America, I can assure Quebecers of one thing: they don't know how much they have to lose.'

[Marney · Rating 4 out of 5]

I learned some things. I disagreed with some things. A surprising readable book concerning Quebec society. Printed 12 years ago so a little dated The rest of Canada has their own myths about Duplessis, Hydro Quebec, Caisse Pops, QPP, poutine and, of course, language laws and the PQs. It is interesting to get a glimpse of the story from the Quebec viewpoint.It has some good laughs too. It ends with a interesting definition of Canada and on a positive note. Worth the read.

[Alexis · Rating 3 out of 5]

I was expecting more of a travel-log, based on Grescoe's later books. This is really a look at the culture of Quebec. It was fascinating, and interesting. I wish that I'd read it before I moved to Quebec. I did find myself nodding a few times while reading it. I didn't enjoy it as much as his more recent books, but it was still interesting to trace his development as a writer.

[Teghan · Rating 5 out of 5]

I read this several years ago in my undergrad, but it was a really enjoyable and illuminating read. I'm a huge fan of the travel memoir, especially if they take place within Canada.

Its an honest and amusing reflection of Canada's most unique province.

And like with anything dealing with Quebec, its full of debatable positions.

[Hannah · Rating 3 out of 5]

I think I'd have liked this book better if I were Canadian and understood more of the references. Still, this book gave me some insight into the history and complex cultural identity of French Canada. After reading this book in preparation for a trip to Montreal, I had a better sense of what it means to be Quebecois.

[Aaron M · Rating 4 out of 5]

Grescoe effectively captures the spirit and culture of Quebec in highly readable, engaging prose, highlighting what's great (solidarity, culture, liberal social mores) and what's not-so-great about the province (parochialism, political corruption, xenophobia). Highly recommended.

[Alejandro Ramirez · Rating 4 out of 5]

odo lo que usted quería saber sobre Quebec. Me produjo sentimientos encontrados, ilustra una sociedad cerrada, elitista, ensimismada en sí misma. a la vez, una sociedad más humana e interesante. Desde cualquier angulo, el separatismo es una politica de odio, intolerancia, racismo y estupidez.

[Amber · Rating 5 out of 5]

Funny, endearing and enlightening. Vive la Difference! Vive le Québec!

[Mel · Rating 2 out of 5]

Chapters can be read separately as a collection of essays, and some essays were worth more than two stars. Overall, though, I found the book much tougher to get through than I thought it would be.

[Lee · Rating 3 out of 5]

Read it at my friend's cafe, had to leave it unfinished. It's quite hilarious, definitely gonna finish it as soon as I can get the book in my hand. :D

[Shelagh Plunkett · Rating 3 out of 5]

As a new resident of Quebec I found this interesting and somewhat entertaining. I read it and Richler's Oh Canada, Oh Quebec at the same time which meant my experience was a bit point/counterpoint.

[JulieK · Rating 4 out of 5]

More a study of Quebec's character than a travelogue, but still a good (albeit dated) read in preparation for my first visit.

[Chris Westwick · Rating 5 out of 5]

Brilliant; insightful; funny.